Thats the link to my fiero for sale but it seems no one wants to buy it so, I guess im dragging it with me rubs the tear from his eye.
Ok Since I have a 3.8 SC I find the 4.10 4 speed to be less than fun for the car. My parts car has a getrag, how much of a mechanic would I need to be to swap this out after a rebuild kit of course? (My mechanic level, is rebuilt a motorcycle and synced 4 carbs on it, little engines, change belts, basic tuneups) Another question would it benefit me to install a 4t65e, of course which I couldnt do myself, what would a pricetag look for that?
The 4 speed 4.10 has a great start but everything else is meh, 60mph at 3k rpm = no fun.
I have alot of great ideas for my fiero but I am just afraid I may not have time to do it, im going back in the ARMY as an officer.
Since all of my current cars use the Getrag 282 transmission, I may not be the best source for this info but I can at least start the list. You would likely need to change out the following items at a minimum:
Transmission Slave cylinder Shifter Shift and Select cables Possibly some wiring wrt the reverse safety switch Potentially clutch assembly (clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate, etc.)
If you want to go auto you will need: New axle on one side. Flexplate & bolts The Fiero autoshifter (bolts right in) A radiator with a transmission cooler or a separate cooler Fabricated trans cooler lines The transmission wire harness wired into the PCM and your PCM reprogrammed to shift it. The transmission itself
Swapping in the Getrag is nearly as much work but the prices on those boxes are pretty high right now. Its one of the few Fiero parts that is still in high demand as some of the engine swap guys are blowing them up while others are just worn out. . IMO the most economical solution is to go with one of the Getrags used on other GM vehicles-Chevy Beretta, Cavalier etc etc For that you'll need Rodney Dickmans conversion parts kit.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
If you want to go auto you will need: New axle on one side. Flexplate & bolts The Fiero autoshifter (bolts right in) A radiator with a transmission cooler or a separate cooler Fabricated trans cooler lines The transmission wire harness wired into the PCM and your PCM reprogrammed to shift it. The transmission itself
Swapping in the Getrag is nearly as much work but the prices on those boxes are pretty high right now. Its one of the few Fiero parts that is still in high demand as some of the engine swap guys are blowing them up while others are just worn out. . IMO the most economical solution is to go with one of the Getrags used on other GM vehicles-Chevy Beretta, Cavalier etc etc For that you'll need Rodney Dickmans conversion parts kit.
I have a getrag in my parts fiero that was working till the engine blew about 2 years ago. Realistically its cheaper to just mate the getrag and take out the 4.10. I could manage that with alittle time since there is no additional electronics involved. I would like the auto but that would be an extra few grand im assuming to maybe find someone that would or could do that. I have no knowledge of what you stated. I can however swap parts. With that being said, I have a few questions about getting the getrag out and what I will need.
Questions: What size is the axle nut that holds the axle to the hub? How do I get the nut that holds the strut not to turn while ratcheting? Also will my 4 speed axles work with the 5 speed? Also will the spec 3 clutch in the 4 speed fit the 5 speed?
Heres what I need tell me if im missing something: transmission, tranny cables, tranny mounts, (cant remember the name, the tranny specific thing that push the clutch in), gear shifter and mount, slave cylinder and mount.
[This message has been edited by timenewton (edited 10-19-2018).]
...How do I get the nut that holds the strut not to turn while ratcheting? Also will my 4 speed axles work with the 5 speed? Also will the spec 3 clutch in the 4 speed fit the 5 speed?
Heres what I need tell me if im missing something: transmission, tranny cables, tranny mounts, (cant remember the name, the tranny specific thing that push the clutch in), gear shifter and mount, slave cylinder and mount.
You don't need to remove the big nuts from the top of the struts. Remove the parking brake cables and caliper (just tie it up out of the way) toe link nut, the ball joint bolt, the axle nut, and the three 13mm nuts at the top of the strut tower. Remove the strut and knuckle as one large assembly. The "tranny-specific things" I think you are talking about are a slave cylinder, and push rod. You'll need one of those. Rodney Dickman sells the best slave cylinders known to man.
Your clutch may work, but you will absolutely need a Getrag release bearing. You'll have to put it all back together and check clearances. Some pressure plates will hit the inside of the Getrag clutch housing. Also, some release fingers will sit higher or lower than others. If you've got enough free play on the release arm with everything bolted together, and the engine/trans rotates without binding, you should be good.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-23-2018).]
You don't need to remove the big nuts from the top of the struts. Remove the parking brake cables and caliper (just tie it up out of the way) toe link nut, the ball joint bolt, the axle nut, and the three 13mm nuts at the top of the strut tower. Remove the strut and knuckle as one large assembly. The "tranny-specific things" I think you are talking about are a slave cylinder, and push rod. You'll need one of those. Rodney Dickman sells the best slave cylinders known to man.
Your clutch may work, but you will absolutely need a Getrag release bearing. You'll have to put it all back together and check clearances. Some pressure plates will hit the inside of the Getrag clutch housing. Also, some release fingers will sit higher or lower than others. If you've got enough free play on the release arm with everything bolted together, and the engine/trans rotates without binding, you should be good.
Ok I did what you said, and I must be down to the last bolt. The rear of the tranny is loose, ive got the starter off and out, what bolt am I missing? Or does the tranny pop out like an axle with a good tug?
