Hi everyone! I just picked up this 1985 2M6 SE from a friend yesterday and I'm stoked to be a Fiero owner.
My friend bought it from a widow 10 years ago and decided to sell it to me now because he had trouble getting in/out of it. When I was a little kid, my mom had a '82 Firebird with I think this same V6 engine. The interior cues of the Fiero are very similar to that car and I recognized a bunch of stuff the minute I hopped in.
I've always been a fan of RWD 2 seat sports cars. I've owned a '76 Triumph Spitfire, '83 RX-7, and '94 Miata, but that was 25 years ago.
The car has 153k miles, and the engine runs like a sewing machine. It passed smog with flying colors and I got it registered and even ordered a fun license plate for it yesterday.
Apparently I don't like front engined cars because my other daily driver is a 1986 Vanagon. My neighbor laughed and said I bought two of the most notorious cars for catching fire from the 80's. LOL! I had to correct him and say that a very small number of Fieros ever caught fire, whereas Vanagons are still catching fire today...sometimes about 1 per week reported on their forum. I've owned the Vanagon for a couple decades and have maintained it myself. I'm looking forward to fixing up this Fiero over the next few months. It seems like a good starting point and a solid base to build on.
A few items that I've identified right off the bat:
- Front end feels vague at highway speeds (ball joints, tie rods, both?) - Tires are from 2003 and dry rotted (will replace with a modern set of 195/70-14) - Shocks and struts probably need replacing - Quarter windows broken and arrowhead badges missing - Driver seat, sun visors, and headliner fabric is torn and sagging - Window motors are slow - Driver side seat lever missing - Steering wheel cover loose and sagging - Left tail light lens is cloudy - Clutch is heavy, but works well - First gear is hard to engage at a stop unless I shift into 2nd first
Not a bad list of items to address for a 32 year old car IMO. I'm planning on flushing and replacing the coolant and brake/clutch fluid and also changing the oil just for good measure. I have lots of reading to do here but if anyone has any tips, please share them. =) A new purchase isn't complete until I've made my first parts order, so I've bought a few hundred bucks worth of little items from the Fiero Store. Hope their stuff is quality, it seems good in the pics.
Oh, he also gave me a brand new 6 speed transmission from a Pontiac G6. He said it's a bolt in upgrade. Is this true?
------------------ 1985 Fiero SE 2M6
[This message has been edited by AV80R (edited 08-18-2017).]
Congrats and welcome! Very nice car! My first Fiero was a red '85 SE 2M6. I loved that car and sincerely wish I still had it. I have a special spot in my heart for those.
Regarding the tires, I suggest going with RWL tires. I think BFG still makes them. They'd look great IMHO.
Regarding replacement parts, I recommend the Fiero Store and Rodney Dickman as great sources.
Nice looking car. If you are looking to meet up with other owners I suggest you check out the Golden Gate Fiero Club. Some nice folks to know and they enjoy the occasional group road trip to interesting area attractions. They meet regularly in the South Bay.
If you can get those repairs done in time you might really enjoy the 15th Annual California Coast Run taking place Oct, 6, 7, 8. The starting point is in San Simeon, CA. I am in Sacramento and I usually meet up with the SF group down around Morgan Hill for a Fiero caravan to San Simeon by way of Paso Robles. It's always nice to travel in a group. You can get some details here...
------------------ John Wayne as John Bernard Books in The Shootist... " I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a-hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."
My rides... 1988 GT with a 3.4L V6 automatic 2006 Harley Sportster 'cause I love the twisties on two wheels or four.
Thanks! For the alloys I have should I stick with the 195/70-14 or is the 215/60-14 an option?
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Originally posted by 87_FieroGT:
Congrats and welcome! Very nice car! My first Fiero was a red '85 SE 2M6. I loved that car and sincerely wish I still had it. I have a special spot in my heart for those.
Regarding the tires, I suggest going with RWL tires. I think BFG still makes them. They'd look great IMHO.
Regarding replacement parts, I recommend the Fiero Store and Rodney Dickman as great sources.
[This message has been edited by AV80R (edited 08-18-2017).]
Oh this is fantastic! I absolutely cannot miss the Coast Run, especially being really pumped as a new owner.
Thanks a bunch for the links.
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Originally posted by Rsvl-Rider:
Hello, and welcome!
Nice looking car. If you are looking to meet up with other owners I suggest you check out the Golden Gate Fiero Club. Some nice folks to know and they enjoy the occasional group road trip to interesting area attractions. They meet regularly in the South Bay.
If you can get those repairs done in time you might really enjoy the 15th Annual California Coast Run taking place Oct, 6, 7, 8. The starting point is in San Simeon, CA. I am in Sacramento and I usually meet up with the SF group down around Morgan Hill for a Fiero caravan to San Simeon by way of Paso Robles. It's always nice to travel in a group. You can get some details here...
That is almost exactly the same as what I bought back in 1985...and still have! I ordered mine with no A/C, PW, PDL...Just the V6 and the WS6 suspension....I "Know" a lot about it's suspension......I am at this moment traveling up into OR for the eclipse(And to see the Sumpter Gold Dredge) so when I get back I will try and give you some more info....I just gave a bunch of spare parts to Rvsl-Rider.
I am running out of juice for my laptop- and was smart enough to NOT bring the cord! Be home on Tuesday....hopefully!
I just did the tie rods, wheel bearings, ball joints, and steering damper on mine. Lower ball joints were a pain! I have to shift into second to get mine in first too, its thos white things on the shift cables on the tranny linkage, rodney sells them. Ill get to those eventually. Nice ride and yeah those 80's interiors bring back memories for sure. Def give it n oil change, fuel filter, and check the brakes
So time to dive in on this thing and get my hands dirty.
Of course the oil was black as night and at the low mark, so I filled it up with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and will give it the "Italian tune up" treatment for the next 100 miles before I dump the oil and put fresh Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic.
Then I changed the air filter and it really looks like it hasn't been changed since last century.
The wiper blades look like they're at least a decade old too. Old ones on top below.
And lastly, I noticed the coolant overflow reservoir was empty and suspected a leak. I was right. Gotta buy a new one of those.
Anyone know where I can find the GM decoder ring to figure out what the options on this fender tag are?
[This message has been edited by AV80R (edited 08-19-2017).]
And lastly, I noticed the coolant overflow reservoir was empty and suspected a leak. I was right. Gotta buy a new one of those.
Be sure to to read up on the coolant fill and BURP procedure, especially now during the summer heat, or you risk an overheat problem. It's not just a top-up and go thing. It's a very specific procedure to ensure proper coolant circulation. Not a bad idea to test the coolant temp / fan switch function as well to make sure it kicks on when needed..
There are lots of minor variations and opinions on the exact process but this should give you the idea...
If the oil and air filter were as you say, I would also take a look at the air conditioner/heater box for debris. You do this by taking out the blower motor in the front trunk compartment. I think there are 6 small 7mm screws holding it in. Then take a look inside the box and clean out any debris to avoid having a dash fire. The blower motor is to the right of the brake booster in the front trunk compartment and is round.
If the oil and air filter were as you say, I would also take a look at the air conditioner/heater box for debris. You do this by taking out the blower motor in the front trunk compartment. I think there are 6 small 7mm screws holding it in. Then take a look inside the box and clean out any debris to avoid having a dash fire. The blower motor is to the right of the brake booster in the front trunk compartment and is round.
Thank you, this is very helpful. It's on the to do list now and I would have never checked it if you didn't mention this.
One the more thing. Looking at the picture of the engine bay, the bushings on the dog bone engine mount look worn. Stand behind the car and grab the top of the engine and rock the engine forward and back. If you can move the engine then you may need to replace the bushings on the dog bone. The dog bone mount is the top engine mount on the right of your picture that looks like a dog bone, hence the name. This is a typical thing that needs replacing. You can do rubber bushings, but I suggest poly bushings.
Yeah hit the car with regular maintenance that was probably not done. Shocks and struts may fix the loose feeling. Bleeding the clutch system may fix engaging 1st.
One the more thing. Looking at the picture of the engine bay, the bushings on the dog bone engine mount look worn. Stand behind the car and grab the top of the engine and rock the engine forward and back. If you can move the engine then you may need to replace the bushings on the dog bone. The dog bone mount is the top engine mount on the right of your picture that looks like a dog bone, hence the name. This is a typical thing that needs replacing. You can do rubber bushings, but I suggest poly bushings.
I had my eye on those bushings too. I'm not getting much movement out of them by hand, but when the engine is revved up, it allows for about 2mm of movement on the engine side bushing. Is that within the normal range?
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Originally posted by liv4God:
Cool, I'm on the other side of the bay a bit North in Santa Rosa. I'm planning to go to the Coast run in October, hope you can make it too!
I hope to make it. I'll definitely make the event on Sep 10, and look forward to meeting ya.
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Originally posted by 2.5:
Welcome!
Yeah hit the car with regular maintenance that was probably not done. Shocks and struts may fix the loose feeling. Bleeding the clutch system may fix engaging 1st.
I think shocks are struts are definitely needed. I suspect the KYB ones will be too stiff? I want comfort and am considering the Monroe ones. Are those are more equivalent to what was on there stock?
Also the shifting into first has been solved. All I have to do is just gently push to the left and it goes in no problem. Maybe the cables need adjustment, but I've adapted my behavior which solved the issue.
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Originally posted by 87_FieroGT:
Personally, I'd stick with the stock size if that's possible. Wider tires on the front will increase steering effort.
Sweet! Thanks for the link. I'm joining up now and ordering their enthusiasts guide.
Here are some pics taken at my airport after the first oil change. Getting to the oil filter was easier than I thought. I just reached up through a gap in front of the right rear wheel. That was a relief.
I really like this earlier notchback look a lot.
------------------ 1985 Fiero SE 2M6
[This message has been edited by AV80R (edited 08-22-2017).]
Hello from CA, I have tons of the parts i am sure you are thinking about buying for your car New in box and i will make you a hell of a deal. I am in galt not a far drive from where you are at if you want to meet up and i will give you a bundle deal
some parts all new bearing kit for the front timkin bearings all new struts front and rear all new rubber bushings front and rear all new upper and lower front ball joints new engine strut poly bushings new engine mount replacement driver tail light new leather wrapped shift knob ..... and some more stuff i moved on to another project and looking looking to liquidate.
Hello from CA, I have tons of the parts i am sure you are thinking about buying for your car New in box and i will make you a hell of a deal. I am in galt not a far drive from where you are at if you want to meet up and i will give you a bundle deal
some parts all new bearing kit for the front timkin bearings all new struts front and rear all new rubber bushings front and rear all new upper and lower front ball joints new engine strut poly bushings new engine mount replacement driver tail light new leather wrapped shift knob ..... and some more stuff i moved on to another project and looking looking to liquidate.
PM sent with my phone number! Give me a call.
[This message has been edited by AV80R (edited 08-21-2017).]
Is the fuel tank sender easy to replace? I'm wondering if that's the source of some bad readings I'm getting on the gauge.
The manual says I have a 10.3 gallon fuel capacity.
When it reads 1/2 remaining, it only took 2.1 gallons to fill it up after 41 miles (19 MPG)
Then I ran it down until it was totally buried at empty, felt the car buck and assumed it was about to run out of gas. It only took 7.4 gallons to fill up after 123 miles (16.6 MPG).
I was really hammering on that tank, so the lower gas mileage makes sense.
I guess I'll load it up with some spare gas in the trunk and see what it takes to use the entire 10 gallon capacity.
Is the fuel tank sender easy to replace? I'm wondering if that's the source of some bad readings I'm getting on the gauge.
The manual says I have a 10.3 gallon fuel capacity.
When it reads 1/2 remaining, it only took 2.1 gallons to fill it up after 41 miles (19 MPG)
Then I ran it down until it was totally buried at empty, felt the car buck and assumed it was about to run out of gas. It only took 7.4 gallons to fill up after 123 miles (16.6 MPG).
I was really hammering on that tank, so the lower gas mileage makes sense.
I guess I'll load it up with some spare gas in the trunk and see what it takes to use the entire 10 gallon capacity.
You are lucky it reads lower than actual. When I got my first Fiero my dad was driving it, quarter tank left and it dies. He says, "your car broke!" But turns out it was out of gas. That car has tricked me multiple times, even though I knew it was about a quarter off, I've still run out more than I'd like to admit.
Anyway, you may not need to replace the sender. Cleaning the coil helps give a better reading, you can clean it with a pencil eraser. Then there are also adjuster screws that give a limited amount of adjustability. After cleaning the coil with the sender unit still out of the tank, disconnect the fuel pump wire on the pump and then plug the sending unit harness into its rightful plugin. You can then move the float by hand (gently) and see how it matches to the gauge. Adjust the adjustment screws until it is as close as possible at both empty and full. Don't forget to reattach the pump wires before installing back into the tank. (Or worse, realize you forgot once the tank is back in the car) Doing these 2 things with that car I mentioned above, I was able to get it within half a tick of accuracy, not bad considering it was a quarter tank off before.
Taking the tank out is a pain, mostly due to getting the tubes off and limited space while lying underneath with the car on jack stands. If you have a big lift of sorts it might not be so bad. Once the tank is out the rest is easy to work on. While the tank is out, you can check the inside for dirt, rust or damage. I've worked on tanks of 4 of mine and all of them ended up being clean, but there's never a guarantee. Also check the pump tube, a rubber fuel tube just a few inches long from the pump to the metal pipe. It can go bad and reduce fuel pressure. Easy to replace when everything is out. Lastly if there is debris in the tank, I'd recommend replacing the pump pickup screen.
You are lucky it reads lower than actual. When I got my first Fiero my dad was driving it, quarter tank left and it dies. He says, "your car broke!" But turns out it was out of gas. That car has tricked me multiple times, even though I knew it was about a quarter off, I've still run out more than I'd like to admit.
Anyway, you may not need to replace the sender. Cleaning the coil helps give a better reading, you can clean it with a pencil eraser. Then there are also adjuster screws that give a limited amount of adjustability. After cleaning the coil with the sender unit still out of the tank, disconnect the fuel pump wire on the pump and then plug the sending unit harness into its rightful plugin. You can then move the float by hand (gently) and see how it matches to the gauge. Adjust the adjustment screws until it is as close as possible at both empty and full. Don't forget to reattach the pump wires before installing back into the tank. (Or worse, realize you forgot once the tank is back in the car) Doing these 2 things with that car I mentioned above, I was able to get it within half a tick of accuracy, not bad considering it was a quarter tank off before.
Taking the tank out is a pain, mostly due to getting the tubes off and limited space while lying underneath with the car on jack stands. If you have a big lift of sorts it might not be so bad. Once the tank is out the rest is easy to work on. While the tank is out, you can check the inside for dirt, rust or damage. I've worked on tanks of 4 of mine and all of them ended up being clean, but there's never a guarantee. Also check the pump tube, a rubber fuel tube just a few inches long from the pump to the metal pipe. It can go bad and reduce fuel pressure. Easy to replace when everything is out. Lastly if there is debris in the tank, I'd recommend replacing the pump pickup screen.
Thanks, this is very helpful. I'll plan on yanking the tank and giving your procedure a shot.
there is a procedure to drain the tank by using the ODB connector. You jump one of the wires in the connector to 12v and the pump will run. Unhook the fuel filter and add a rubber hose to the end going to the filer and drain it into a fuel approved canister. run the pump dry and then drop the tank.
Ditto on the dog bone Larry mentioned. A worn dogbone will put lots of stress on the motor and tranny mounts. Thou shalt always keepeth a fresh dogbone on thy Fiero at all times. Thou shall not trusteth Fiero suspension parts with over 100K miles. Thou shalt go to Rodney Dickman first and then anywhere else for parts. I strongly encourage you to upgrade your headlights to Gen 2. (aka junkyard upgrade) When buying something unknown, it's best to assume something wasn't replaced at the proper interval. (like the air filter in your pic) Personally, I would change plugs and gas filter in short order. By the way, looks like your missing the cruise and charcoal canister. Monroe Sensation-Tracs seem to have a good reputation. I have KYB's and I have suspected for a while that they tend to die an early death. Thanks, Kit