quote Originally posted by unboundmo: SO That's IT!... My new exhaust system.

That might be the most purdy exhaust system I ever done see.

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: I wish I could get the video to actually embed into this post.

As far as I know... to embed a video in this forum, you've got to upload it to YouTube.

Thanks Patrick... and to everyone that gave me heads up on what they've come across.. This forum has been so good to me over the years.. The knowledge that it can provide...

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Sooo.... How does the teaser video clip sound to you all? ..... I guess I was hoping for an open discussion thread but....... And To get everyone's opinions and such..

I just see it getting passed by and forgotten.....

Oh well... On to the NEXT Project!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-28-2016).]

You should update the OP with the video. The forum has been really slow lately.

Thats nice lookin!

Vid doesn't play for me. Maybe you can use youtube?

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Thats nice lookin! Vid doesn't play for me. Maybe you can use youtube?

I'll try to load it on YouTube when I get home

Plays fine for me. Sounds great!

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Past:
1988 base coupe sold
1984 base coupe rust
Present:
1986 SE 2m6

So on YouTube it is!... Make sure you listen through a nice speaker system though... or good quality headphones for the full effect... and Please remember minimal tune only.. after the headgasket rebuild.. I just wanted to hear it real quick!... I couldn't wait any longer..

video

Embedded:

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Past:
1988 base coupe sold
1984 base coupe rust
Present:
1986 SE 2m6

quote Originally posted by lateFormula: Guru beat me to it, but I was going to mention that your manifolds look very much like the ones that used to be sold by KFG:

Just to touch base on this again because this has really got me to thinking..

I'm still cutting the flanges.. but I noticed that my cross/middle section is also different... Not knowing about the kfg in detail ( I definitely didn't have a picture of theirs to go off of while I did this ) but I thought of the strength the log would have if I had the joint all the way around |-- or in a _|- way.. At the time, I felt that it being offset may have more strength all together.

Maybe this will also help with the expansion and contraction stresses?

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-30-2016).]

What does it cost to cut it ? It does not hurt it any and down the the line it may save a lot of aggravation .I have stock cast iron manifolds that have cut flanges . If they need them then why wouldn't your headers need them ?.Seems like cheap insurance to me . Your system looks awesome , great work .

quote Originally posted by wftb: What does it cost to cut it ? It does not hurt it any and down the the line it may save a lot of aggravation .I have stock cast iron manifolds that have cut flanges . If they need them then why wouldn't your headers need them ?.Seems like cheap insurance to me . Your system looks awesome , great work .

Thanks for the cool comment...

So earlier in the thread fieroguru brought up to us, issues with (maybe the design-1 piece flange) (maybe the welding technique) of the log manifold kfg designed and sold. We were also discussing the difference in temperature with the expansion and contraction stress a one piece has (no movement) or cut (able to expand and contract with the pipe).. But also.. With mine (not sure of kfg's), I have mild steel flanges with stainless steel pipe. Different metals react at different times to each other.

Edit to say... Maybe it was the joint design |-- that I was talking about instead of cross jointing the pipe that led it to cracking as well?

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-30-2016).]

I think maybe the only way to correct it (stress cracking).... If I were to do it over again. I think I would have a one piece back section and tie in the exhaust ports into it.. Like I did to cylinder 5 and 6.

Like a skeleton spine with the ribs attached (4) out of the six.. The other two will be mandrel bent (cylinder 1 & 2) to be technical :|

Edited to add.. Since my welds are on the "block" side instead of the outside of the flange.. Do you think I'll have better flex relief also because the T portion is longer due to welding location? Would it really matter the 3/8" difference?

please share your thoughts everyone...

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-29-2016).]

Watched the video. I won't yet comment on the sound because it is a very short video. But I will make one suggestion: pull the tips off and shorten the pipes that the tips mount to. It looks to me like the tips protrude too far out from the fascia.

quote Originally posted by lateFormula: Watched the video. I won't yet comment on the sound because it is a very short video. But I will make one suggestion: pull the tips off and shorten the pipes that the tips mount to. It looks to me like the tips protrude too far out from the fascia.

I appreciate your suggestion.. I went "days" just looking at them before I decided.. Plus I think it's the angle of the shot... When I get home later tonight, I'll post a side profile view.. They Look actually not that bad in my opinion.. From the side, it protrudes out about (not more than) an inch from the bumper..

In all, I was going for that lambo or old Ferrari (Italian) look... With the tips just BAM!.. Actually, I never really like the stock exhaust how it was tucked so much underneath... Now-a-days... with all the turbo cars and how rich they run.. And flames coming out.. I know mine doesn't do this but what if? Especially if I go into a turbo system or S/C

Wishful thinking for me... Maybe

Oh... The tips are welded on.. No easy task to just pull off and reposition?...

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-30-2016).]

I envy the beautiful work you've done here, really a fantastic job! I know nothing about welding, but I do wonder why nobody except the very short 3800 exhaust swap guys ever seem to consider adding flex pipes to reduce the stress that the manifolds see?

I suffered a completely split firewall side stock manifold when I got my 86 GT and I recall watching in shock at how much movement I could see at the manifold when I was under the car to replace the motor and transmission mounts. When I used a pry bar to help position the tranny mount, I could watch the broken pipe between ports flex from being aligned, to being side-by-side.
Just a curiosity of mine.

quote Originally posted by Fiero 88: Embedded:

Sounds great.

quote Originally posted by viperine: I envy the beautiful work you've done here, really a fantastic job! I know nothing about welding, but I do wonder why nobody except the very short 3800 exhaust swap guys ever seem to consider adding flex pipes to reduce the stress that the manifolds see? I suffered a completely split firewall side stock manifold when I got my 86 GT and I recall watching in shock at how much movement I could see at the manifold when I was under the car to replace the motor and transmission mounts. When I used a pry bar to help position the tranny mount, I could watch the broken pipe between ports flex from being aligned, to being side-by-side. Just a curiosity of mine.

Thank you....

And to comment.... The flex/braided pipe addition was on my thoughts also when I was designing this But I incorporated the original springs and mounts.. I felt that if Pontiac did it that way without the flex section, it may be just fine in this configuration...?

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-29-2016).]

Except look at how many cracked 2.8 exhaust manifolds there are... My idea is that the flex would relieve the weight stress at the manifold. And if you place the flex somewhere easy to reach, it could be easier to replace down the road since flex pipes seem to be the weakest spot on modern exhaust systems. I would still utilize the factory springs in addition.
Having replaced my front manifold now, I still don't expect it to last forever. The heat it sees, the rain that hits it, the weight of the rest of the exhaust pulling at it. A lot of factors that made this the weak spot for our cars. I feel as though the only other option GM might have tried, is cast iron manifolds. Had they gone that route, they probably would have shattered.
Ultimately, nothing lasts forever. But the difficulty of replacing the front manifold warrants ideas for better longevity. When I do my 3800 swap, I hope to have the 2.8 stock exhaust routing, and I will most likely add a flex to help with peace of mind, despite using front and rear ZZP powerlogs, which appear a great deal stronger anyway.

I totally agree Viperine.... I guess down the road some I could maybe squeeze it in the downpipe section below the V-band clamp.. Not much space anywhere else?.. Hopefully there will be a clamp on?.. I'm all ceramic coated up and I would hate to waste it.. yet, I know, cracked manifolds would be worst.. Thanks for the input!

My only concern with how far those exhaust tips are sticking out is whether they'd make contact with a wall before the bumper would.

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: Okay!... so at (1) angle -- to Me!....., they look kind of goofy!..... but they've grown on me since...lol.... and it didn't take much.. But if you look at old ferraris or a Lambo countach... Or my favorite.. The Pantera...! Suppose We just say mine falls within their category?

I think they look good. Also, it's your car, so if you like them that's all that counts.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: My only concern with how far those exhaust tips are sticking out is whether they'd make contact with a wall before the bumper would.

I don't know about you, but I'm careful enough when backing up with my Fiero to where that would be a non-issue. My Kia on the other hand, IDGAF.

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Past:
1988 base coupe sold
1984 base coupe rust
Present:
1986 SE 2m6

quote Originally posted by Patrick: My only concern with how far those exhaust tips are sticking out is whether they'd make contact with a wall before the bumper would.

Or hit the ground on steep gas station / driveway entrances.

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 11-30-2016).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Or hit the ground on steep gas station / driveway entrances.

Actually, in those recent pictures I just posted, the front end of the car is on Jack stands.... I just measured and from the stock GT front bumper (bottom) measures 15 3/4".. from the floor. So those tips will stick a little farther up when the car is sitting right..

Shoot! -and because I'm local - I'm more worried about the front chin addition and skirt addition I just finished.. I need to mount it though.. The chin is done... But when the car is sitting (off jackstands), the new skirt will measure roughly 4" from the ground. IT'S always SiDeWAyS City over here!... It's what you do!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-30-2016).]

quote Originally posted by Fiero 88: I don't know about you, but I'm careful enough when backing up with my Fiero to where that would be a non-issue.

It's not like I make a habit of plowing into walls , but there have been occasions where I've needed to creep back very slowly until I've made gentle contact with a vertical barrier.

Most OEM exhausts do not have a flex joint .They use a joint that is kind of like a ball and socket with a packing gasket inside .It allows for movement without leaking . They usually last about 7 or 8 years and then get replaced by something that does not move as well .I do not know why they don't use flex joints instead .

I'd rather hit a wall with the exhaust tips, rather than the bumper, knowing it could damage the tails with enough flexing.

quote Originally posted by viperine: I'd rather hit a wall with the exhaust tips, rather than the bumper, knowing it could damage the tails with enough flexing.

I'm missing something here.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: I'm missing something here.

Exhaust repair will involve cutting and welding.

Hitting something with the bumper will require repaint, which may not match the rest of the car, which could mean repainting the entire car...

Or if the impact is higher, then the unobtainium fastback taillights could be damaged.

So exhaust repair is less hassle.

quote Originally posted by pmbrunelle: So exhaust repair is less hassle.

So we should all be using extended exhaust tips as rear impact absorbers? I dunno man...

quote Originally posted by Patrick: So we should all be using extended exhaust tips as rear impact absorbers? I dunno man...

Bosozoku exhaust would be pretty sweet on a Fiero.

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Past:
1988 base coupe sold
1984 base coupe rust
Present:
1986 SE 2m6

quote Originally posted by Fiero 88: Bosozoku exhaust would be pretty sweet on a Fiero.

Yeah... Lmao...lol...

Whatch you know about Japanese style in Iowa? Anyway.. Forgive me.. just too easy



I feel sorry for the exhaust hangers...

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 12-02-2016).]

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: Whatch you know about Japanese style in Iowa?

Nuttin. Onliest thing I knows is Chivvy pickups, big belt buckles n' John Deere.

*yelling in the background*

Shut yer mouth Darlene! Git back in the trailer n' git me a Natty Light!

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Past:
1988 base coupe sold
1984 base coupe rust
Present:
1986 SE 2m6

I came across a stock picture in another post on here (Pennocks) asking about the 88 exhaust replacement recently.. I'm sure you've all seen this as well.?.. But to compare the size difference from stock is just

I also like how there are less flow interruptions in the new design V's old.... Looks like I'm Straight pipin' it!...

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 12-04-2016).]

Well.. Damn it!! ....... A new project is on the arise.. New exhaust tips!!....

That "one" post ago has got me buggin... It drives me cRAzY now.!!. It's like a void space per that (1) angle of view... All other view angles are fine to me.. (But I know it's there!) 👀

So be it..!. ----- I've been searching the Internet these last several days and haven't found anything that I like.. Yet, anyway.. So I'm at Autozone today to gather oil change stuff for my jEEP and I grabbed a straight pipe in 3"... Visualizing like "Life of Mitty" in a day dream, what would 2 pipes next to each other look like..?

Heck... I was thinking to just make my own tips now... Let the brainstorming begin!

So.. The originals are 3 1/2" duals..but with the 3 1/2 section being only 3 1/2" long (ends cut at an angle) but I think that's the problem.??.. That 3 1/2" section looks stubby.. The vibrant tips are a total length of 9".

These in the drawing, below, are 3" duals (straight pipe) with 1/2" separation in between. The 3" tube section measures 8 1/4" long +/-. A total length of 13".. Just before the 90 bend section prior from my new piping. This length will line me up to where they are now.. They may stay, I don't know yet.. Maybe a 1/2" less sticking out.. They will still be evident though.. and I was thinking to straight cut the ends on them?

These mugs are 3" dia...







I've been going back and forth with 3" or 3 1/2"... Needs to look like a straight pipe though.. No adapters..

I wish I would find this in a rolled lip edge


What would you all do if you had second thoughts? What's your favorite design?

Edit to say.... I think I'll keep the 3 1/2" size... Or maybe not?

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 12-05-2016).]

Oh man, except for the fact that maybe they're sticking out half an inch too far... your current exhaust tips look great.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Oh man, except for the fact that maybe they're sticking out half an inch too far... your current exhaust tips look great.

2-3 inches by my estimation from just looking at the pictures.

Also to the OP, what is the diameter of the piping used between the Y pipe and the mufflers? Your tips can be smaller diameter tubing than that size, so you may not need 3" for the tips, you might be able to use 2-3/4" or possibly 2 1/2" which should make construction of a dual tip easier.

[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 12-05-2016).]

quote Originally posted by lateFormula: 2-3 inches by my estimation from just looking at the pictures. Also to the OP, what is the diameter of the piping used between the Y pipe and the mufflers? Your tips can be smaller diameter tubing than that size, so you may not need 3" for the tips, you might be able to use 2-3/4" or possibly 2 1/2" which should make construction of a dual tip easier.

But for my taste.... I sort of like the tips where they are (where they end)..maybe a little less sticking out but not much. Not sure if you've been reading.. I don't want them tucked...? Because of the design of the these ones that I bought, they look funny in the location that they are. (I'll give you that) They don't fit to the car.. They create void spaces behind the tip And I think that is the problem for me as well..

As far as the pipe, it's 2 1/2".... Coming down to it though... 3" X (2) as duals IS my liking. Anything less is puny for this "muscle car" and a glasspack style (1940'-50' bombers) Chicano style.... Which isn't bad either.. Just not for me

I want to show somewhat of a Pantera setup... In your face-- eat my exhaust!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 12-06-2016).]

YES!.. I am obsessed!.... 😜 .. I can't help it.. And I'm sorry.

It haunts me till it's RIGHT! ------- I had to.

I stopped by the pipe store today... ✅!

I can see it now... Can you?

So these are 3" dia stainless pipes waiting and ready for duty! -- the same size as stock, I believe. Just not coned.. and I have (2) 3" to 2 1/2" adapters to make it all happen.

To explain, and while at the pipe shop, I had in-hand, (2) 2 1/2" pipe sections and (2) 3" pipe sections.. I stared at it for like, 20 minutes.... Side by side..

I had to go with the 3".... The 2 1/2 just wasn't cutting it.. At ALL!... for me anyway.

(Shhhh.. but I mailed this picture to Santa today in hopes ) --- and note: these pipes are not to size, lengthwise.




To show in comparison...

Picture the new pipes (in-place-of) the tips in this picture, here, below.... and these tips shown are 3 1/2" each; but now i feel look stubby from the top view.. And don't fit the car... What I'm calling, the goofy "void" space. (making me )

But I think with the smaller diameter of the new pipe (at 3") will be better taylored ( like a suit) to the car.... and also being longer, to tuck the look in more under the bumper to fill in the goofy void mentioned earlier..

Can you see it?... A pair of solid pipes just coming out of there.... I can! That's MEAT baby! It's like a tubbed rear tire 😏

I'm going to definitely take everyone's opinion and comments into consideration.. Although, hopefully I don't see walls behind me .. And my wife is not allowed to drive 👍🏼... Well, if she asked, I'd probably let her.. But anyway...

The project thickens!!




Question---------- SLANT angle cut (this picture above). ----- or ------ STRAIGHT cut (like the drawing that I did in perspective)

I'm leaning toward straight cut myself.. More race than show

What would you all do?

Edit to say... In looking at this picture (side angle).. I think when all is finished, I'll end the NEW tips at the end of the metal plate that's mounted underneath.. The look will be where it won't be sticking out the bumper but pretty evident that it's there.. I like it!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 12-07-2016).]