Hello again. Back at it here, everything is back on with the exception of the upper plenum. Having some problems with the vacuum lines fitting nicely. They're certainly not flush and easily neat like the originals. Is there a certain order I should install them in? Also the line going from the trunk wall to the TB is giving me trouble with fitting the upper plenum back on. Does this line go into the port nearest to the trunk or the cabin?
I have the SS vac lines and they don't have the give as the originals . My suggestion to you is not to worry about getting them lined with with all the clips that hold them together and allow them to move on their own. They still are a quality product and look great even if not perfectly aligned.
Yes we finally got them to fit! Made a few mistakes along the way but everything is now back together! Have a couple little pieces to get back on to get everything back to good running condition which will be taken care of tomorrow and then I'll try the ATF method.
Tomorrow I have to connect a vacuum line that shattered off to the side. Not one of the pieces with the 7piece set from The Fiero Store. New spark plugs installed and new wires to be installed soon. Hood goes back on tomorrow. Car should be able to go home tomorrow
someone mentioned a loose spark plug. This happened to me last week. when i heard it I was sure it was a lifter. Opened the hood with the car running and was even more certain. Then I saw the spark plug boot dancing around. I tightened it up and all is well. This may not be your problem, but check the easy stuff first.
Yes I checked that first. Unfortunately not my problem. Also unfortunate my teacher was out of the building today so the shop was closed. Hopefully he'll be back tomorrow and I can do the finishing touches.
I should clarify that I did get the car running, it certainly did not run well though. First I had the wires hooked up to the distributor wrong. Easy enough to fix, then it ran fine for about 3-5 seconds and just went full revving for about another 2-4 seconds before cutting off completely. We called it a night there and will work on it tomorrow hopefully.
Very frustrating day to say the least. There seems to be a very large vacuum leak but we can't seem to find it. Haven't spent a huge amount looking but so far no luck. You can feel the air blowing out right around the EGR valve. Won't be back in the shop until Monday though, then won't have access again until Wednesday night after that so very much hoping that we can figure it out in Monday. Any suggestions?
1. detach the EGR tube from the under side of the intake and cover the hole....does the idle go down? 2. find the spring-loaded diaphragm in the EGR valve with your finger and see if you can move it. There is a hole in the underside of that mushroom shaped part. it may be stuck open.
No trying to sound rude, but a vacuum leak sucks... it does not blow.
Got everything sorted today. Finally drove her home.
So here are the details: 1. The vacuum leak I was experiencing was the big steel line that goes into the throttle body. Not one of the 7 piece sets but a really big original steel line. Not sure what it is, but I put it in before putting the upper intake on and it must've popped out when we reattached the throttle body. 2. There's a wire that comes out of my trunk that we couldn't find the connector to. I know we disconnected it but couldn't find it. I don't have power trunk so not sure what it's for. 3. Had some issues with the EGR valve. Originally had the wrong gaskets, then got the right ones, the we realized we didn't have the bottom gasket so we had to make one out of gasket material. Not really anything serious, just thought it was kind of cool to be innovative haha.
More important stuff: 1. The problem didn't go away. Shortly after driving and warming up the tapping reappeared. So I decided to take it home ad add a quart of oil I had in the garage. It went away. Slowly but surely it hasn't reappeared. At the same temps no tapping. It's only been about 5-10 miles since adding that oil. I'm getting a full oil change tomorrow. It's been suggested that I use Seafoam to clean out the engine after I get the oil change. 2. My Service Engine Soon light did come on and shortly after that the tapping reappeared. After I added the oil and the tapping went away the Service Engine light has not. This didn't appear back in December when the lifter problem first appeared so I don't believe it is related.
Any advice still greatly appreciated! Thanks for everything so far guys!
If I remember correctly, these bolts have an unthreaded area/shoulder that prevents the bolts from being tightened too far and distorting the valve cover gaskets. Bolts from a hardware store may have the correct thread and length, but not have this additional feature.
Where did you find these bolts & cover? Advanced, AutoZone, Fastenal, & Pullapart didn't have them.
If the problem is valve train noise as several has suspected only a thorough examination and replacement of parts will stop the ticking noise. I think its a bad or sticking lifter. If you did nothing to fix the valve train throw a can of Rislone in the oil. That should free a sticking valve lifter.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
. My suggestion to you is not to worry about getting them lined with with all the clips that hold them together and allow them to move on their own. They still are a quality product and look great even if not perfectly aligned.
