after riding in my dads Lexus ES350 and experiencing the joy and comfort of air conditioned seats, i want to implement those into the fiero. i dont see it as being all too difficult.
get some car HVAC tubing, and run it from the vents it goes out of when on the settings to a correct sized distribution vent in the seat cushion and on the back rest. shouldnt be hard to do with some GreatStuff foam sealant. get the HVAC kind of course. and for the heated seats, just run a hose from the floor vents and the defroster when on the settings.
of course removing the seat covers before you start any of this. then perforate the seat covers if leather. im sure the cloth would let air flow through without a problem. maybe a smaller hole perforation would be needed. those of us without the blessing of ac in our cars, at least the air would feel comforting against our sweating backs and back sides. cooling off that swampass any way possible
PULSING LED 3RD BRAKE LIGHT Safety safety safety, last thing we need is some dumbass girl driving a loaded escalade or navigator daddy bought her to rear end you cause she didn’t notice your brake lights
*kits have one year warranty from time of purchase
UPDATE 2010-04-13 * i want to add that i have the H4 BiXenon kit on my aveo and one bulb burnt out. called them and they are sending a package to ship the the kit in, in exchange for a good working kit. now thats customer service and a lifetime free warranty. good people to do bussiness with* --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHTS Automatically turns headlights when when light levels are low, ie going into a tunnel
I had been playing with the idea for a while, but I finally did it: I installed a '98-''02 Firebird Body Control Module (BCM) in my 87GT. The upgrade wasn't that difficult at all, but I did take out the dash for installation. The f-body BCM offers a lot of nifty functions in the Fiero:
RKE with GM style fobs, visual (parking lights) and optional audio (horn) feedback Individual remote driver/passenger door unlocking and remote trunk unlocking Retained accessory power (RAP) for radio and power windows, car alarm with theft deterrent LED, panic button, tamper and shock sensing (with optional shock sensor) illuminated entry and exit, courtesy light control with battery run down protection system personalisation and much more
The Fiero feels like a 15 year younger car now with all those comfort features, and the upgrade wasn't all that difficult, and cheap too ($50 for the BCM plus new key fobs). If you care, my how-to for the upgrade can be found here: http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/BCM.html - complete with the schematics.
I hope someone will find this useful or interesting.
Installing a Body Control Module in the Fiero by Oliver Scholz
How it all began...
When I had a brand new Chevy Cobalt as a rental car this year (2010), I got the urge again to add remote power locking to my Fiero. Unfortunately GM's original upgrade systems, like e.g. VSS-201, have long been discontinued, leaving only aftermarket upgrades as viable alternatives. However, I did not like the look of the fobs, they didn't look "stock". Another thing I really enjoyed was RAP. No, not the music (I really don't understand why anyone would like that but that's a whole different story), I'm talking about "Retained Accessory Power". Basically, as most of you know, it lets you keep your radio and power windows powered even after you've removed the ignition key, until you open the driver's door. I thought it was a stupid concept, until I had it in my rental.
Both of these functions, remote power door locks and RAP, are controlled by the so-called Body Control Module or short BCM in modern cars. In a way it's the successor of the blue chime module the Fiero has, because - you guessed it - the chime is also controlled by the BCM. Most modern cars have a BCM these days, but they often incorporate things the Fiero doesn't have or need: daytime running lights sensor, inside temperature sensor, four doors and usually also the requirement to have a CAN or Class2 bus, or else the module will set a gazillion error codes and not work properly. So I needed a vehicle which does not yet have the BCM on the Class2 bus, and is as close to the Fiero as possible. Which got me thinking: what's the Fiero's closest GM relative with remote power door locks? Right: The Firebird! Installing a Firebird BCM in my Fiero would add all of these things and more in a single module...
So, since they're essentially the same car, I looked at the Firebirds and Camaros as possible donors. And while researching the BCM, I found the many additional benefits that come with the installation of a BCM compared the 1980's Fiero system. On the Fiero, all circuits are simple: switches controlling lamps and relays. If things get sophisticated, you get a diode to have some "advanced logic". Not so with a BCM. The BCM is a computer controlling the interior lights, parking lights, horn, door locks and supplying power to the RAP circuits (until 1995 or so there was a separate RAP module on the F-body, which was later integrated into the BCM), it also includes the Passkey II system modern ECMs require, and includes a car alarm (which you can optionally disable). And of course a remote key fob receiver, if you get a BCM with the right part number. But the nicest part is: the BCM is intelligent. Have you ever accidentally left the interior lights on overnight and drained your battery? I know I have. The BCM is smart enough to shut off your interior lights after a while to conserve battery power. Talk about redundancy: the Fiero has three separate driver door contacts: interior lights, key in ignition and door ajar. The BCM only needs one. You can customize a lot of functions the Fiero never had to begin with:
* Remote individual door unlocking * Last Door Locking * Lockout Prevention * Panic alarm * Exit Lighting * Delayed Illumination
The list goes on and on. If you want to get an idea of the features, url=http://cs.pontiac-club.com/graphics/manuals/47/2002-Firebird-Owners-Manual.pdf]download the 2002 Firebird owner's manual[/url]. If you want to get an in-depth description, look at the Firebird factory service manual. In any case, at that point I was sold: I wanted a BCM in my Fiero. But which models are suitable donors?
Picking up the parts
I don't know about the years in between 1995 and 1998, GM seemed to update the F-bodies (Firebirds and Camaros) quite a bit in those years with the advent of Class2 busses, etc. I wanted the latest model BCM, from a 1998-2002 (4th gen) F-body, the part number is 9353691 Code UPL. The 96-97 BCM might be compatible also, I'm not sure. But if that part number is on it, it will work. Other (unverified!) part numbers that should work are 16239981 Code KUB and 16255931 Code DWM. Initially there were several versions (with and without remote receiver AU0), but apparently GM only sells the fully equipped version anymore, so if it has ever been replaced on an F-body in the yard, chances are it has the remote receiver even if it was not equipped with it from the factory. And being a plug-and-play upgrade for F-body owners, many have upgraded their cars with remote by plugging in this part number. Part numbers that should work, but come without remote control receiver are 9353681 Code BAS and 16239971 Code NUR.
The BCM is easily accessible behind the glove box of a Firebird (I'm sure it's equally simple on the Camaro). It's tugged up in a plastic bracket, pull it down and be sure to also get the three connectors (and as much wiring as you can): a blue wide Micropack-100 connector with 32 pins, and two square Metripack-280 connectors with relatively large contacts (the black one is for power and the green one for power door locks). If you catch your junkyard wardens on a good day, you may end up paying $50 or even less for everything. The remote fobs are usually gone or unsightly, so do yourself a favor and get one or two new ones. GM has them, Pep boys has them, and you can get them on eBay. Take a look at them first though, the pictograms changed over the years, some have a horn button, others don't, some show a trunk lid, others say "rear", etc. If you want to be sure, get the ones for the car and year you pulled the BCM from, the picture shows the key fob for a 2002 Firebird.
Another choice you have is reusing the old connector terminals by splicing the Fiero wiring into the pigtails, or alternatively removing the terminals and crimping new terminals on the Fiero wiring. It's a matter of taste, really. I used new terminals where possible, and reused the old terminals where convenient. If you want to remove the old terminals from the connector housings, get the proper terminals pick(s), they make removal of the terminals really easy, unless someone has yanked on the wires and bent the tabs on the terminals. I hope you didn't do that on the yard. You can usually get the picks where the new terminals are sold. But if you prefer a clean install over splicing and prefer new connectors, you're in for a surprise: They connectors and terminals really hard to get. I bought the blue connector from Performance Connection Systems, the part number is 12110207 with the top secondary lock being 12045889. The bottom secondary lock (12045890) is unavailable though PCS and I had to recyle it. PCS also carries the female Micropack-100 terminal pins in several wire gauge sizes (12146447 and 12146448). But the two square Metripack 280 connectors (black: 12064752, green: 12089527) were impossible to get, I had to recycle the old ones. But again the terminals (female Metripack 280) are available at PCS (12015858, 12066214). The terminals are only a quarter or so a piece, so do yourself a favor and buy a few extra ones, in case you ruin one during crimping (I bought 20 each). Again, you can use the junkyard pigtails if you don't mind splicing.
One word of caution regarding Metripack terminals: These are available as "tangless" unsealed terminals and regular unsealed terminals (with a tang). You want the terminals with a tang, the tangless terminals are intended for tangless connectors and sit too deep in the regular unsealed connectors like the ones for the BCM!
And in case you're wondering where to get all the colorful wires I mention, it helps to have the wiring harness from almost any GM car to part out - the colors are the same across most GM cars, and troubleshooting is a lot more difficult if all wires have the same color!
Believe it or not, this is all you need! And while the job looks overwhelming at first, it's not as bad as it looks. With the dash out, you can easily get to most signals, and the time required mostly depends on how clean you want the result to look, i.e. if you are going for the factory look of the new wiring or if you just want things to work.
Installing the BCM in the Fiero
Now, that part was easy, but next is the actual wiring. Do yourself a favor, and get the Fiero Factory Service Manual (FSM) at this point (not the Haynes or Chilton!), it is essential for troubleshooting. Also, get the Firebird FSM ('98-'02), you can pick them up on eBay for little money. Before you start the wiring, you need to find a good location first. The Firebird location under the passenger side dash is also a great location in the Fiero: You need access to the power door lock wiring as well as horn, seatbelt, seatbelt light, etc. All of these are right there on the so-called "convenience center". Best of all, you can get rid of the blue chime box and the power door lock relay, the BCM replaces them both. Unfortunately if you have the factory subwoofer like me, there is simply not enough space for the relatively large BCM there. The alternative (which was the only option for me) is on the driver's side, on top of the steering column (see picture).
Wherever you mount it, you need to remove the dash and steering wheel. I'm not kidding. You'll be tapping in a dozen or so circuits, measuring and tracing wires and installing new ones. Taking out the dash isn't so bad, and the installation of the BCM is impossible with the dash in place. Take out the steering wheel first, it makes getting the dash out of and into the car much easier. And one last piece of advice: disconnect the battery! You will be messing with the fuse box, and you don't want to set your Fiero on fire after all these years, do you? Be extra careful around the fuse box, it's dangerous if you screw up there.
The following description is how I wired the BCM into my 1987 GT, "your mileage may vary", follow these instructions (more of a report, really) at your own risk! The Firebird and the Fiero are closely related, wiring colors are GM standard in many cases, and I used the F-body manual as a reference as to how the wiring on the Fiero should look. Also, I wired most, but not all of the options the BCM offers. I'll discuss my choices where appropriate, again it's up to you to do as I did or do things differently. I have also discovered the "lost schematics" - apparently GM had this planned for the Fiero a long time ago ;-). Anyway, I hope you can use them. Now, we'll start with the hardest part.
Well, no matter if you want to wire up all or just some of the circuits the BCM offers, it does need power. From several locations, and you need to modify the fuse box wiring. C2, the black BCM power connector handles the power and ground for the BCM (hence the large contacts), you should wire this one first.
The BCM controls power to the courtesy lights, so you need to cut the courtesy lamp supply in two places: the orange wire for the courtesy lights near S210, and the orange wire coming from the dome/reading lights going into C200 (visible near the driver side A-pillar). Splice the end going to the dome lights together with the orange wire going to the courtesy lights, and splice a dark blue/white wire (0.8mm) together. This dark blue/white wire goes to Terminal E of the power connector. Extend the orange wire coming from C200 into terminal B of the power connector. The BCM connects terminals B and E to power the lamps with a relay if it allows to power the courtesy lights.
Now we need to modify the fuse box. Look into the rear of the fuse box and find the bus bar connecting the Heater/AC-Fuse, Fan-E-Fuse and Window circuit breaker. Remove the fuses and use the blue terminal tool (or a small screwdriver) to bend the tabs on both sides of each terminal to release the bus bar. Remove the bus bar from the fuse box. Cut a piece (1-2 mm) from the bus bar to separate and isolate (!) window circuit breaker from the other two. Bend out the locking tabs and reinstall the Fan-E/HTR-AC bus bar. The existing orange feed wire now feeds only the FAN-E and HTR-AC fuses. Now crimp and solder a new 3mm² dk blue feed wire into the remaining piece of the bus bar to feed the window circuit breaker. Reinstall the Window circuit breaker bus bar. Next find the bus bar connecting Radio and Wiper fuses. Again bend locking tabs and remove bar and again separate and isolate the two. Reinstall the wiper bus bar and the existing brown feed wire. Crimp and solder a new 3mm² dk blue feed wire into the remaining part of the bus bar to feed the radio fuse. Splice this new wire into the new wire we just installed to feed the window circuit breaker, and run it to the BCM power connector terminal C. This is the RAP output that supplies radio and windows when the ignition is off.
To feed the BCM when RAP is not active, Terminal D of the BCM power connector must be connected to a circuit that is hot in accessory and run. Use a brown 3mm² wire and run and splice it into the existing brown feed wire for the wiper fuse. Isolate the splice.
Now, to feed the BCM when RAP is active, run a new red 3mm² wire from Terminal F of the BCM power connector and splice it into the existing red feed wire of the pwr acc circuit breaker and ctsy/lid fuse. Isolate the splice. This wire is not fused and hot at all times, so be extra careful to isolate it well.
BTW: if you connect Terminals B and E with a jumper wire, and C and D with another jumper wire, your Fiero is basically the way it was before (should you ever want to go back to no BCM, or if your BCM is broken).
Finally the BCM needs a good ground wire. Use a black 3 mm² ground wire from terminal A of the power connector and screw it to G201 (behind the radio, see FSM 201-5-C).
To summarize: the courtesy/dome lights are now no longer powered directly from the fuse box, but supply current instead goes to terminal B, through the BCM and from terminal E to the courtesy/dome lights. Window circuit breaker and radio fuse are now powered through the BCM RAP output terminal C. BCM RAP is normally supplied by the wiper feed (hot in acc or run) or if RAP is active through the pwr-acc/ctsy-lid fuse feed.
The next group of wires is the reason I started this whole enchilada: the door lock wiring. The BCM replaces the old power door lock relay. Disconnect the connector and discard the relay. On the connector are the wires for the door lock actuators and the door lock contacts. They go to the green BCM connector (C1). Unfortunately we need these wires on the other side of the car, but I don't recommend extending the large diameter power wires from the connector to the BCM for a simple reason: the wire gets too long for the driver side wire: the wire would run from the door on the left across the dash to the door lock relay on the right and then back to the left to the BCM. The long wire would lead to an unnecessary voltage drop, costing the power door lock actuators desperately needed power.
Instead, if the wires are left the way they are (with the old lock relay connector unused but intact!), both motors are wired in parallel, running from door to door, making just an interim stop at the power door lock relay connector. If we locate power door lock wiring harness (remember, this was an option, so there is a separate harness), we can open up the harness above the steering column and extend the wires to the green BCM connector:
* Find the 2mm² grey lock wire and splice in a new wire and run it to terminal B of the green BCM connector. This signal is used to lock both doors. * Find the 2mm² tan unlock wire and cut it to the left of the steering column. Pull the right end of the wire out of the harness, and crimp a new Metripack 280 connector to it. It goes to to terminal E of the green BCM connector (passenger door). * Extend the left end of this wire with another 2mm² tan wire and run it to terminal A of the green connector. This signal unlocks the driver door. * Find the light blue lock switch wire in the harness, and splice a light blue wire into the circuit and run it to terminal C on the green BCM connector. * Find the black unlock switch wire in the harness and splice a black wire into the circuit and run it to terminal D on the green BCM connector.
BTW, Terminal F is unused, you must leave it unconnected. But we are not done yet. Unfortunately the door lock switches switch to power on the Fiero, but they must switch to ground on the Firebird system. So you need to find Splice S303 in the harness (it's also above the steering column but toward the center of the car, see 201-16-A). The orange wire going to the right obviously goes to the right door switch. The three other orange wires go to the left. Find C307 behind the carpet on the driver side and tug on the orange wire going to S303 to see which of the wires goes to the LH door switch. Then cut the other two wires and splice them together. Now the door switch supplies have been separated from the power mirror supply and the CTSY/LID fuse. Next splice in a black wire to ground (I used the now unused ground screw previously used for mounting the door lock relay. Verify terminals C and D on the green connector go to ground when the appropriate lock/unlock buttons are pressed. Now the two "big" connectors have been wired, and all that's left are the small diameter wires going to the blue Micropack connector. You can use thin (0.5/0.8mm) wires from now on as indicated in the schematics.
Chime box functions
As I mentioned before, the BCM also replaces the blue chime box (aka the "audible alarm center"). So it is only natural to get the signals from the convenience center (which is where the chime box is usually plugged in). You can pick up quite a few signals at the convenience center:
* C1 - Ground. This is terminal "G" at the convenience center. * C4 - Fasten seat belt indicator. This is the yellow wire terminal "F" at the convenience center. * C13 - Seat belt switch. This signal is the black wire terminal "H" at the convenience center. * C14 - Key in ignition signal. This signal is the light green wire terminal "C" at the convenience center. Also find the tan wire at the driver door jamb switch and connect it directly to ground. * D5 - Ignition from Gauges fuse (hot in run, bulb test or start). This signal is the pink/black wire at terminal "E" of the convenience center. * D15 - Park lamps feed: connect this wire to any brown "park lamps" wire on the cross car wiring harness, e.g. at the light switch.
Cut these wires between the convenience center and the center of the car, and pull them back through the harness and connect them to C1, C4, C13, C14 and D5 of the BCM connector. They're long enough to crimp a new terminal to each of them and insert into the connector directly, so no splicing or extending for a change.
The parking lamp input on the Fiero is wired with the IP illumination (terminal A/grey wire on the convenience center), which would probably work as well, then you can turn off the parking lamp warning by dimming the IP lights. On the Firebird D15 is connected to the "park lamps" circuit (brown wire) and not the IP illumination circuit. I tapped into the park lamps circuit at the light switch.
Since the horn relay is in the same harness going to the convenience center, find the (right) black wire in that harness and splice a wire and route it to C9. Unless you don't want to control your horn remotely, in which case you can skip this step.
Okay, the trunk release circuit is a little different than the Fiero's but not completely different. You do need to wire in a new (standard) relay though. I used the trunk relay from a '95 Firebird, including the proper relay socket. First you need to cut the orange/dk blu wire and the grey/black wire at the trunk release switch, and connect them thus bypassing the trunk release switch. Connect the grey/black wire of the switch to the black ground wire at the switch. Finally splice a new wire into the orange/dark blue wire and run it to terminal D3 on the BCM connector. Now the BCM sees the trunk signal from the release switch.
Next we work on the new relay. Find and remove the old relay. Cut the wires at the trunk relay connector and crimp new Metripack 280 terminals to the wires. Insert the wires in the new relay socket like this: One working contact to the grey/black wire (power), the other working contact to the black/white wire (output to trunk solenoid). Then insert the tan/white (manual) or yellow (automatic) wire to one end of the coil, and splice a new wire into the remaining wire (you can keep the one already in the socket if you have a used one with a pigtail) and connect it to terminal D4 on the BCM.
As I mentioned the BCM is smart and contains diagnostics, just like you can jumper A&B on the ALDL connector and the ECM flashes the service engine soon lamp. The BCM has a very similar feature, and I highly recommend wiring it. One part is the diagnostic input. Believe it or not, diagnostics is initiated by pulling the RADIO fuse! Wire a yellow wire from D6 on the blue connector to the radio fuse circuit (fused side), e.g. at the Radio (duh!) or the fuse box. Now you can initiate diagnostics, but you can't see the result yet. Well, the lamp the BCM flashes is the security indicator lamp (C12), which you can add to an unused idiot light in your dash (e.g. shift up light on automatic Fieros, or the battery light on rally gauge equipped Fieros). The other end of the light must be connected to battery power "hot at all times"! This is important, because the BCM wants to turn on the security light even with the ignition off or in ACC for diagnostics. If you don't care about another idiot light in the dash, you can mount the lamp anywhere, even behind the dash, as long as you can see it if you want to run diagnostics.
Interior/exterior lights control
We have already wired the interior lamps feed with BCM power connector C2, now we need to wire the interior lights return. Normally the easy thing to do would be to find S304 and open it, because all relevant wires meet there. Unfortunately S304 is rather unaccessible, so I chose a different way.
I cut the white wire coming from the instrument dimmer switch, and extended the wire from the switch to C7 on the BCM connector. This lets the ip dimmer switch command the BCM to turn on the interior lights, and lets the BCM turn them off if you run down the battery.
Next are the door jamb switches. The RH door switch wire is easy to find and cut. Do it and extend the switch end of the wire to the D12 terminal (passenger side input) of the BCM connector. Connect the other end of the wire to D1 on the BCM connector. Now the BCM can see the RH door contact and turn on the interior lights.
Finally the LH door jamb switch. This one is hard to find. I removed the switch from the door and tugged on the wire to "feel" it. Anyway, cut the wire and splice a new wire to the switch end and isolate the harness end. Connect the new wire to the D11 terminal (driver side) of the BCM connector. Now the BCM can turn on the courtesy lamps and sense if either door is open, and which.
One word regarding D13: this is the rear compartment ajar input. It is used to turn on the courtesy lights on the Firebird if the rear deck is ajar. While this may make sense on the Firebird, it doesn't make sense on the Fiero, so leave this input open! On the Fiero the trunk is obviously separate from the interior, so the lamp and switch are on a separate circuit from the interior lights on the Fiero. This also means the trunk lights are not controlled by the BCM and you can still drain your battery if you leave your trunk ajar! If you want to wire your trunk light into the BCM controlled interior lights, separate the trunk ajar switch from the splice of the door and hood ajar switches and wire it to D13 instead. You will lose the trunk ajar idiot light this way, but the trunk ajar will also light your interior lights now. In order for the BCM to turn power off to the interior and trunk lights if left on unintenionally, you need to separate the orange/dark blue trunk light feed wire from Splice S125 and splice it into the dome light power feed instead.
The BCM also controls the exterior lights: it can flash your parking lights when you lock or unlock your vehicle. You need another external relay for this, blue connector terminal C8 goes to one side of the relay, the other side goes to the PWR ACC fuse. The same fuse also feeds the relay, the output goes to the parking lights. If you want the turn signals for signalling instead, use a relay with dual separate outputs, and wire them to the LH and RH turn signal circuits. With a fastback you can connect front and rear turn signal circuits at the turn signal switch, on the notchback you'd have to use two relays or a relay with four outputs.
Finally D8 is a fuel enable output signal most newer ECMs require. The BCM generates a 50 Hz sqaure wave here if the correct Passkey resistor was read. Connect it to your ECM's fuel enable input, if you have swapped in a suitable ECM, but normally you can leave it open.
Content theft deterrent (CTD)
Maybe more interesting than the Passkey system is the optional alarm system the BCM offers. How does the BCM know if the vehicle is equipped with an alarm system? Simple: the BCM checks if a security LED is connected to it. If this is the case, it logs a diagnostic code 25/35, and enables the alarm features. Even if the LED is no longer connected, the history code 35 will still be there and you will keep your alarm system, at least until you clear diagnostic codes! If you happen to do that, the code 35 will be gone, and your BCM thinks you're no longer equipped with an alarm system. Funny, huh?
Anyway, at the cost of a LED it's simple to add a red LED somewhere, connect C16 to the anode of the LED and the cathode to ground. No series resistor, this is already contained in the BCM! Now the LED will flash if the alarm is armed to deter thieves, and if the system is armed and a door is opened, the alarm will sound.
If you end up not liking the alarm system, you can disable CTD through vehicle personalisation. But at the cost of a LED, I'd suggest wiring it.
Terminals D2/D14 allow you to hook up an optional shock sensor to be used with the CTD, and these terminals are for shock sensor and tamper switch signals. Maybe you like the idea of your alarm going off if it's windy - maybe you don't. In the latter case, just leave the inputs open.
You can also use these BCM inputs to wire aftermarket equipment, like an interior radar sensor if you like to park with the windows open. The tamper input makes the BCM "chirp" the horn if it goes to ground, the shock input triggers a full alarm if it is grounded.
If you do decide you want the F-body shock sensor, make sure you get the right part number: 10440241 is the third generation shock sensor, 10444928 will work too. Do NOT use P/N 10430551 as this is the second generation sensor that can go off without any reason! Part number for the mating connector is 12064760, you will also need two TPAs (15324070).
First, you need to pick a mounting location. I suggest the front compartment, e.g. on the wheel well, or above the spare tire. On the Firebird it was stuck on the wheel well with double sided tape (no kidding!). But how do you get the wires to the front compartment? Well, if you carefully look at firewall connector C100, you'll see that some positions are not used. You can insert the proper connectors into these two and use them to feed wires to the front compartment in a clean way. Wire BCM terminal D14 to Fiero's C100/H7 (green wire). Since C100/F7 is only used on the L4 with two speed fan, it can be used to connect to BCM Terminal D2 (lt blue wire).
Finally you need to find a ground and "hot at all times" power for the sensor. Ground is simple: use G101 on the LH fender. Power is not so simple. G6 and G8 are hot at all times, but not fused (fusible link only). F8 is powered and fused, but only hot in run. Fortunately G7 is unused unless you have an 88 with electro-hydraulic power steering. Use an orange wire to C100/G7, and patch it into a circuit that is hot at all times, e.g. the CTSY/LID fuse or POWER ACC circuit breaker.
Lamps or LEDs?
The BCM controls the Security light and the seatbelt light but on the 98-02 Firebird cluster these lights are actually LEDs, where on the Fiero they are standard lightbulbs. The difference? Well, the lightbulbs produce several watts, and thus draw much more current than the LEDs. Frankly, I'm not sure if the BCM can handle the current for a lightbulb without taking damage. It's difficult for me to get a new BCM if my old one is shot, so I didn't take a chance and installed LEDs in place of lightbulbs for these two idiot lights. I did find the schematics of this BCM in connection with the 96 Firebird cluster, and in that year the cluster apparently still contained bulbs, but I'll leave that experiment for someone else to try. Please let me know if it works though, and you'll get an honorable mention.
Before hooking up the BCM, I ran a couple of tests which I list here in case you too want to test your work before connecting everything. The tests don't test every single possible condition, but are a good first test that can be done with little effort to verify your installation.
The first part of the tests should be performed with the battery disconnected. Use an Ohmmeter to verify these terminals are grounded (a continuity tester works too) at all times, or grounded when the given condition is true:
* C1 (green) C: lock switch driver and passenger door pressed (test both sides) * C1 (green) D: unlock switch driver and passenger door pressed (test both sides) * C2 (black) A: Main ground * C3 (blue) C1: Signal ground * C3 (blue) C7: IP dimmer switch: interior lamps on * C3 (blue) C13: Seat belt unlatched * C3 (blue) C14: Driver door open AND key in ignition * C3 (blue) D3: Trunk release switch pressed * C3 (blue) D11: Driver door open * C3 (blue) D12: Passenger door open
Also verify D2, D13 and D14 are not grounded! If you have the Passkey system hooked up, verify the resistance between C2 and D7 reads correctly on the Ohmmeter.
Next hook up the battery with the BCM still unconnected. Verify there is no smoke anywhere. Use a test light or voltmeter to verify battery voltage at these connections under the given ignition key position:
* C2 (black) B: Hot at all times * C2 (black) D: Hot in ACC/RUN only * C2 (black) F: Hot at all times (except if courtesy fuse is not in) * C3 (blue) D5: Hot in RUN/Bulb Test/Start (except if gauges fuse is not in) * C3 (blue) D15: Park lamps on
The next tests involve a fused jumper (5A max). Touch the connector terminal only momentarily to avoid possible damage and observe the unit for correct operation. First connect one end of the fused jumper to ground and test these terminals:
* C3 (blue) C8: Parking lights should come on * C3 (blue) C9: Horns should sound * C3 (blue) C12: Security lamp in cluster should come on * C3 (blue) D4: Trunk unlocks (note that other conditions need to apply, i.e. parking brake set and shift lever in park!)
Finally use a fused jumper to battery for these tests:
* C2 (black) C: Radio is supplied power through RADIO fuse (you may want to use a 15A fused jumper for this test depending on your stereo system!). While the jumper is in place, verify D6 shows battery power (12V) * C2 (black) E: Map lights come on if map light button is pressed * C2 (black) E: With C2/E powered, ground D1 (this is the interior lamp control): the courtesy lights should come on * C3 (blue) C4: Seatbelt lamp should come on * C3 (blue) C16: Theft deterrent LED should come on. Caution: You need to run this test with a ~500 Ohms resistor in series of you will blow the LED!.
These pins are not tested with these tests:
* C1 (green): A, B and E (power door lock motors, needs two jumpers for testing, and a bit of current too) * C3 (blue): C11 is the theft deterrent relay (which doesn't make sense unless you wire the Passkey components) * C3 (blue): C15 controls the low coolant light latch (which the Fiero doesn't have) * C3 (blue): D8 carries the Passkey fuel enable signal (signal is generated by the BCM and Fiero ECM doesn't use it) * C3 (blue): C3, C5, C6, C10, D9, D10 and D16 are not used
If all these tests succeeded, you can dare to plug in the BCM. Remember, some terminals carry unfused battery power at all times, so it's a good idea to disconnect the battery for the installation of the BCM. First, enter diagnostic mode as described in the FSM and check for current or history codes. Remember, you don't know if the previous owner had BCM problems before the car went to the yard! Clear codes, and check the customizable features, you never know what the previous owner had set. If any error codes remain, diagnose them as per the Firebird FSM. While the BCM is in diagnostic mode, it sounds a single "ding" for each input changing state, e.g. if you open or close a door. This is very useful for diagnostics once the BCM is hidden behind the dash.
The security indicator is valuable for diagnosing any problems with the BCM, but chances are you had powered the BCM at some point with the Fiero ignition on, but no passkey resistor installed. If a correct resistor had previously been seen by the BCM (i.e. the BCM is not brand new), and the sensing inputs are open with the ignition in run, the BCM may enter fail mode.
Basically the BCM thinks your passkey system is defective. The BCM is in fail mode if the security indicator is on when the ignition is in run, but goes off if you turn the ignition off. In this mode, even if the correct resistor is connected, the light will not go off after a few seconds like it should.
To get rid of the annoying light, insert the key into the ignition with the correct or just about any valid resistor value connected to the BCM, and set the ignition to "run" for 3 minutes, then turn it off. This should make the BCM exit this fault mode, and if you have the correct resistor connected, the light should go off. If the resistor is wrong, the light will go on again, but stay on when you turn off the ignition. This is the difference between this failure mode and the previous fail mode. So turn off the ignition with the security light on, wait 3-4 minutes until the light goes off, connect the next resistor and THEN turn the ignition to run. Repeat this process until you have found the right resistor.
Well, that wasn't so bad, was it? I had the dash out for about a week and I only did a few wires a night because it was raining and I had to document everything. With the information in this article you should be able to do this upgrade in a fraction of the time.
I take no responsibility that what I wrote here works on your car too! Whatever you do, you do it at your own risk. But if you perform this major upgrade, I'd like to hear from you, and of course please also let me know of any mistakes you find in this document.
is there another word for that function in US? the main function: the outside lights are on for few seconds when you are coming or leaving your car. so you have an safe way and you can better see surprises on your way.
battery rundown protection for the interior lights would be a nifty thing to have. im too tired to search for a module that does this.
but i do want to add that having something connected inline with the battery that cuts it off at a low voltage point isnt all that great. having maybe a separate module for the interior lights and one for the headlights/parking lights that turns off after 10 minutes or so is ideal. it can probably be rigged up with a defroster relay and a spdt automotive relay. but thats kind of primitive for a feature like this.
[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 07-26-2009).]
Great list. I have a lot of electronics in my car, but I guess I have more to go. I put in a Pioneer AVIC GPS/Video/Audio. It is a double DIN with a multipurpose knob and a 5.8" touchscreen and fit my 94 Camaro dash with a minor cut of the bezel. I just bought a RAC (a RAP module from a 90s Bonneville) to be installed. I guess now it is time to find some power seats!
------------------ Jim 86 SE 355 Body Kit w/3.1 Auto (Sold) 87 T-Top Coupe 2.8/5 Speed new project
There are some very nice extra items to have on that list but if we added all of them a Fiero could weigh 500 Lbs more!. I like the digital cruise, LED lights and fuel pressure gauge but some of these items are more frill than function. Thanks for putting the list together.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
POWER SEATS Haven’t found much on this that’s been done
Have them installed in my 86 GT. The motors and tracks were from a late '80's Camaro/Firebird. Other than the wiring, the tracks were a bolt-in. No mods required.
score! to the fiero seats? got any build pics or show off info on this? i can get those next to nothin at pull a part.
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
There are some very nice extra items to have on that list but if we added all of them a Fiero could weigh 500 Lbs more!. I like the digital cruise, LED lights and fuel pressure gauge but some of these items are more frill than function. Thanks for putting the list together.
well since this is my 3rd sports car, 86 SE 2M4 1st, 95 C4 6 spd 2nd and this fiero 3rd, i want it to be pretty well equipped since me and merlot566jka my bro have so much time and money put into it.
Originally posted by rjblaze:
I know.....dumb question here......what is a RAP module for?
Retained Accessory Power, lets you have control of power windows, radio and whatever else you feel is necessary for a short amount of time after you have turned the engine off and removed the key. once you open the door, everything shuts off like before without the module.
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:
automaticly "rips out" the wires of the speakers of anyone playing "RAP" ! LOL
i like that better
[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 07-26-2009).]
That wide band could be helpful for my 3.4L... It's sort of a guessing game and word of mouth for the setting on the adjustable fuel pressure gauge.. I want to make sure.
What hand held computer for OBDI would tell you that otherwise?
Anyone have the wideband in there car yet?
What dash mods have people done... I wouldn't want to change my original but I wonder how it looks with added pod clusters. Though not really a fan of the door front sill area. I don't have a turbo ........... ................. ............... ... ... ..... ................................................................... yet
all that, and missed the Keyless Entry? w/Trunk Popper?
that is my next project, and since most have a remote start also, I am going to wire the windows to the remote start, so it will drop the windows when I hit the "start". being a manual trans - I just dont like the idea of remote start
Well... I'd be really, really skeptical of those HID lights.... 99.9% of them are either phony, or very, very dangerous and illegal.
The only thing that catches my eye is the Windshield Washer Fluid Heater.... I live in Minnesota though, where temperatures below -34F are commonplace :P But, I don't think I'm payin $150 for it.
Like the RAP Kit, but my Fiero's all manual, so no use for that one :P
Another thing that could use adding, is Sequential Turn Signals! I put them on my Fiero, and they do look awesome.
Anywho, thanks for the nice list!
EDIT: Oh, forgot to mention, the auto-dimming mirror! I jury-rigged the one from my Toronado into my Fiero back when I first bought it, since my Fiero's rear-view mirror was missing... And, it's always a really nice accessory to have. Unlike traditional mirrors, you'll actually be able to see what's behind you pretty clearly, and the headlights are made much, much dimmer.
[This message has been edited by Twilight Fenrir (edited 07-31-2009).]
do you have any videos of sequentials on a fiero? is it a notchie or a fastback? i think that kinda makes a difference in how they look on the car.
Ah, now that you mention it, I believe it only works on the Notchies, as the fast-backs don't have enough lights... but, I don't remember for sure... It's kind of raining alot here now, but I'll see if I can't get a video up eventually.
That's actually the unit I bought and installed :P However, if my Fiero is typical, there are a couple other parts you need to make them work... Which include a pair of factory light-sockets (from either the of the two outer-most lights) and a pair of resistors... It is fairly simple to install though, provided you know in advance what I spent a week figuring out :P
Don't forget stealth install Escort Passport 9500ci, the best hidden/remote install radar detector money can buy at the moment.
Note: Depending on who you ask, the middle unit is radar and could be mounted hidden behind the Fiero front bumper. The two side units need to remain visible to work. They could be mounted near the radiator, or in the stock blinker locations.
any links or purchase links to these? that hidden cop-dar is easy to find since the model number was put up. but the other stuff would be great to have to model infofrmation for so in case anyone wants to go buy one on a drunken whim....
well i was continuing a video search of shift lights, when i came across this. ive been thinking up ways to have this exact thing work on a car since my bike had one. looks like one f-body guy already has. i messaged him on the video link to his photobucket. hope i get a reply real soon. i then founf the the indy-cator shift knob is in fact a produced item. i thought it might have just been a sema idea. but im not too big of a fan of having to look at your shifter to tell what gear your in when you look at it without the indy-cator and still tell what gear your in. they do have a 2 1/16 gauge style one it looks like. from the description, it looks like it operates on an accelerometer.
I found a cheaper solution ($11 at Pull a Part) to the compass/outside temp indicator, from a 93 Dodge Caravan:
It is a long console, and I used the front, center section of it. The outside temp sensor came from in front of the radiator. Please note that the newer consoles are bus based, so you need and older one to get the direct hookup to the sensor.
Here is my radio/video/GPS, installed in the 94 Camaro dash. It is a double DIN, but fit with minimal mods into the 1-1/2 DIN slot.
I took a Homelink from a 2000ish Cadillac Catera and wired it into a button on the overhead console. The Catera Homelink was in a mirror, which was unusable. If you use a Homelink, you need it from a 98 or newer car, because the older versions do not support the rolling codes used in the newer garage door openers.
In process: RAC module Power seats, if I can find them
------------------ Jim 86 SE 355 Body Kit w/3.1 Auto (Sold) 87 T-Top Coupe 2.8/5 Speed new project
The functions that I am currently using from the HUD are: - speedometer - jacked off the lead to the power steering that was never installed from factory. - left and right signal lights - taped of the bulb socket - high beam - taped of the bulb socket - and radio setting (displays when radio settings are modified/ volume is changed) used gtp radio no dimming, riged for full brightness, with dimming automatically from light sensor
I used the 4th gen version, which the display is seperate, and cut out the circuitboard box from the main enclosure. I then soldered the sun sensor to leads and placed it in the stock sun sensor holder for the auto climate unit from the gtp. The display is bolted to a strip of aluminum that is friction fit between the dash and the steel mount, and held in with one bolt. The main problem is the display is much smaller (roughly half the height) however the advantage is it appears brighter as the light is not spread over as much of the windshield.
I had used a 5X7 component plate before, and used a plastic plate, now I used aluminum to mount the speakers closer to the side of the car as below, with the hole cut out for the hud to shine through, as well as a hole for the light sensor to stick through.
Here is the cover, with the cutouts for the hud, and the sun sensor
It is difficult to take the pictures, however here are two:
i've seen the threads on HUDs and installed one in my car. My point is that there are only a few that will fit a fiero and NONE of them look like the ones in the large pics that were posted. Those HUDs will NOT ift a fiero.
Yes... I must have a HUD, that's awesome... If I could wire it into the speaker bezel like they did there... then it'd be easy to remove should I wish to go back to pure-stock. Which, is what I'm keeping in mind during my tinkerings, since my Fiero is pretty much from the factory.... I think it still has the tires that were put on it when it was made! (Way past time fore new ones)