It's supposed to. The timing procedure calls for refilling it with 5w-30 synthetic when compressed. According to this, overfilling it is a bad thing. lol. I can imagine.
Well I reset the timming back to stock....I do have more torque but does feel likei lost some on the peak end. Steven....your right, there is more useable torque thoughtout the powerband. Unfortunatly now it takes longer to pass on the highway. Now thats ok, the idle is smoother which i expected, I just hope the MPG go up. The ignition miss is more obvious now thanbefore.
Now I'm looking into modding the ignition to smooth out the power and burn the fuel completely.
Overall I'm not sure if there is an advantae for the 13*- but can say I did gain power on the low end and lost power on the top end.
Any one have any ignition ideas? I will be cleaning the plugs and replacing the module and coil packs.
Well I reset the timming back to stock....I do have more torque but does feel likei lost some on the peak end. Steven....your right, there is more useable torque thoughtout the powerband. Unfortunatly now it takes longer to pass on the highway. Now thats ok, the idle is smoother which i expected, I just hope the MPG go up. The ignition miss is more obvious now thanbefore.
Now I'm looking into modding the ignition to smooth out the power and burn the fuel completely.
Overall I'm not sure if there is an advantae for the 13*- but can say I did gain power on the low end and lost power on the top end.
Any one have any ignition ideas? I will be cleaning the plugs and replacing the module and coil packs.
The best ignition upgrade for a naturally asperated engine is low resistance spark plug wires. You want wires with about 50 ohm/ft resistance. Stock plug wires are usually around 3000 ohm/ft resistance. Summit racing has some low resistance Taylor wires pretty cheap:
Although I don't know why one set is $51 and the other $74? I guess summit will have to answer that one. Other upgrades beyond better wires will give little or no benefit.
Originally posted by Doug85GT: Sounds like you need a sump pump. They are not hard to put in yourself. Just find the lowest corner of your basement and cut a hole in the floor the right size for the pump. Install the pump and put a grate over it. Then it will automatically pump water out of your basement every time water goes into the hole and it will keep your basement dry. Here is a $50 pump that you can use for this purpose:
You can also go into even more complex basement drainage plans by cutting channels into your basement floor going to the sump pump and then covering the channels with either concrete strips or long thin grates.
Thanks for the suggestion but I have a sump pump, 2 in fact ..the flooding was so much it overwhelmed the system so I got water in the basement over and over and over ..its never been this bad ..finally its all dried out and I actually was able to mow my yard today ..all 2 1/2 acres that is grass without getting stuck in the mud a swell as being able to finally weed my garden which really suffered from all the rain
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 06-18-2008).]
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Doug85GT: Sounds like you need a sump pump. They are not hard to put in yourself. Just find the lowest corner of your basement and cut a hole in the floor the right size for the pump. Install the pump and put a grate over it. Then it will automatically pump water out of your basement every time water goes into the hole and it will keep your basement dry. Here is a $50 pump that you can use for this purpose:
You can also go into even more complex basement drainage plans by cutting channels into your basement floor going to the sump pump and then covering the channels with either concrete strips or long thin grates.
Thanks for the suggestion but I have a sump pump, 2 in fact ..the flooding was so much it overwhelmed the system so I got water in the basement over and over and over ..its never been this bad ..finally its all dried out and I actually was able to mow my yard today ..all 2 1/2 acres that is grass without getting stuck in the mud a swell as being able to finally weed my garden which really suffered from all the rain
[/QUOTE]
Wow. Sounds like you needed Moses to part the waters in your basement. I'm glad things are better now. The water table is too high here to have a basement but I guess that may be a good thing.
Originally posted by Doug85GT: Wow. Sounds like you needed Moses to part the waters in your basement. I'm glad things are better now. The water table is too high here to have a basement but I guess that may be a good thing.
whats really funny is the ground is kind of hardbaked and dry in the top 1 inch ! After all that ! My basement is only 4 ft deep into the gorund I REALLY feel sorry for those with a full basemtn..like my sister of which I also had to deal with ...
Originally posted by Doug85GT: The best ignition upgrade for a naturally asperated engine is low resistance spark plug wires. You want wires with about 50 ohm/ft resistance. Stock plug wires are usually around 3000 ohm/ft resistance. Summit racing has some low resistance Taylor wires pretty cheap:
Although I don't know why one set is $51 and the other $74? I guess summit will have to answer that one. Other upgrades beyond better wires will give little or no benefit.
I'm running Accel Super Stock Spiral wire. I just replaced them under warranty but mainly for asthetic reasons. Not sure what ohm ratings they are but seem good. I wanting to replace the coils since they are original.
Well, I am going to put a 96-97 intake on my 92 engine and have mounted the TB directly on the intake plenum..anybody else done this? If so did you notice a difference in powerband?
Although I don't know why one set is $51 and the other $74? I guess summit will have to answer that one. Other upgrades beyond better wires will give little or no benefit.
The cheeper set is not for the 3.4 DOHC, its for the 2.8's and 3.1's.
Well, I am going to put a 96-97 intake on my 92 engine and have mounted the TB directly on the intake plenum..anybody else done this? If so did you notice a difference in powerband?
Erik I have a 96-97 intake for sale if you haven't already found one.
Erik I have a 96-97 intake for sale if you haven't already found one.
Thanks for the heads up but I have several already. I have the stock 96 -97 DOHC TB mounted to the intake, eliminating the intake arm and am sure it will increase throttle responce and hopefully breethe a bit better on the top end
FYI, all the the wiring and vacuum diagram links on the first page are dead. Luckily I have all of the diagrams that I need saved on my work computer but other users may still need them.
Yes I know. Apparently Ryan got in trouble for having them online. I have several saved on a hard drive. Let me know if you need any of them, and I'll try to get you what I can.
Well, I am going to put a 96-97 intake on my 92 engine and have mounted the TB directly on the intake plenum..anybody else done this? If so did you notice a difference in powerband?
I'm not sure if you will notice much of a difference. The intake runners will be the same length and you are not changing the size of the surge tank. Reducing the distance of the throttle body should give you slightly better throttle response, but I don't know if it will even be noticable. In order to have a real effect, you would have to either modify the intake manifold or build a new one.
Originally posted by Doug85GT: I'm not sure if you will notice much of a difference. The intake runners will be the same length and you are not changing the size of the surge tank. Reducing the distance of the throttle body should give you slightly better throttle response, but I don't know if it will even be noticable. In order to have a real effect, you would have to either modify the intake manifold or build a new one.
Surge tank? I am assuming you mean the plenum which appears to be bigger than the 91-93 intake. It should breathe better than the 91-93 intake due to the restriction on that manifold.
I am using a stock TB so, perhaps I won't notice much difference unless I step up to a larger TB which might reduce lowend torque ..From looking at the manifold intake arm and how it transitions to the intake plenum, it appears there is a some what of a contradiction in airflow velocity wise as the TB end of it is smaller and gradually increases in volume to the other end that attaches to the plenum. Which makes me think GM designed it as a extention to the plenum to add volume and due to space constraints in the W body
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 06-19-2008).]
Surge tank? I am assuming you mean the plenum which appears to be bigger than the 91-93 intake. It should breathe better than the 91-93 intake due to the restriction on that manifold.
I am using a stock TB so, perhaps I won't notice much difference unless I step up to a larger TB which might reduce lowend torque ..From looking at the manifold intake arm and how it transitions to the intake plenum, it appears there is a some what of a contradiction in airflow velocity wise as the TB end of it is smaller and gradually increases in volume to the other end that attaches to the plenum. Which makes me think GM designed it as a extention to the plenum to add volume and due to space constraints in the W body
Some people refer to it as a surge tank and others a plenum. It is the part of the intake manifold that holds the air that multiple cylinders draw from. I will call it a plenum for clarity.
I am not sure if the intake arm can be considered part of the plenum. If it is, then removing it makes the plenum smaller. A smaller plenum means higher air velocity at low rpm but choked off power on the high end.
I've got a 95 3.4 DOHC with the 96-97 intake swap on it and am looking to put cruise control on it. Am thinking about taking it from Illinois to Arizona for this coming school year so it would be really nice to have cruise traveling those 1,000 some miles. Would anyone be able to help me put together a parts list of the things I would need to make this happen?
I've got a 95 3.4 DOHC with the 96-97 intake swap on it and am looking to put cruise control on it. Am thinking about taking it from Illinois to Arizona for this coming school year so it would be really nice to have cruise traveling those 1,000 some miles. Would anyone be able to help me put together a parts list of the things I would need to make this happen?
Thanks
Probably the best and easiest thing to do rather than get a list of parts is to go to a Pick-N-Pull, find a 3.4 DOHC engine with cruise control on it and take all the parts that are connected to the system.
If you walk into an autozone or a standard dismantler with a parts list, you will always end up missing the small things such as fasteners, nuts, bolts, brackets and wiring that are obvious when you are pulling the parts off the car.
Yeah, just pick up a 95 or later dohc with the electronic controller. It's computer controlled, so all you have to do it wire in the brake switch. And of course the cruise controls from the front.
[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 06-23-2008).]
Yeah, just pick up a 95 or later dohc with the electronic controller. It's computer controlled, so all you have to do it wire in the brake switch. And of course the cruise controls from the front.
I just talked to one yard, they said they had a 95 monte carlo there with the cruise still intact. $60 plus tax for it. He said it wasn't a 3.4 dohc though and it didn't need to be. Is this true?
Has anyone come up with a good idea for the front plug wells? I mean boots flexable to fit into motor without dropping it.
I took the originals and cut them in half. I thook a rubber boor and silicone it to the upper half. So when I install the lower boot, I just slide the upper boot over it.
I just talked to one yard, they said they had a 95 monte carlo there with the cruise still intact. $60 plus tax for it. He said it wasn't a 3.4 dohc though and it didn't need to be. Is this true?
It should work fine. They are all pretty much the same in all W-bodies. Here's a picture of what you need:
Although I'll say, that's a high price for the unit.
These well help you with the wiring from the cruise stalk and brake switch. Save them as soon as you can before they get deleted. http://dtcc.cz28.com/files/electcrz.zip
Has anyone come up with a good idea for the front plug wells? I mean boots flexable to fit into motor without dropping it.
I took the originals and cut them in half. I thook a rubber boor and silicone it to the upper half. So when I install the lower boot, I just slide the upper boot over it.
No, and it's bugging me. I'm trying to find a source for the chimney flue material Kohburn used between the trunk and decklid.. still nothing. Greasing the o-rings isn't enough.
I can't wash my car without a mis-fire. I used roof flashing like a gutter but it has limits. I think I am going to make something else for the water run off.
I got tired of lowering the motor to pull the front plug boots out. I was thinking of making a flexable metalic core boot that would snap to a 90* terminal. Just not comming up with good flexable insulators that will withstand the heat.
Originally posted by Emc209i: It should work fine. They are all pretty much the same in all W-bodies. These well help you with the wiring from the cruise stalk and brake switch. Save them as soon as you can before they get deleted. http://dtcc.cz28.com/files/electcrz.zip
Car had misfire under load....one or two cyl. Now like total momentary shut off and then back....Bucks like a horse.
First I replaced all the plugs....still mis-fired. Then the coil pack and Module....still mis-fired and bucks at 4500rpms.
replaced wires...misfire gone but now bucks and kicks. SO I'm thinking new module is bad. I went through this with a friend and the module solved it. I guess I will have to swap module and see what happens.
Car had misfire under load....one or two cyl. Now like total momentary shut off and then back....Bucks like a horse.
First I replaced all the plugs....still mis-fired. Then the coil pack and Module....still mis-fired and bucks at 4500rpms.
replaced wires...misfire gone but now bucks and kicks. SO I'm thinking new module is bad. I went through this with a friend and the module solved it. I guess I will have to swap module and see what happens.
Before you do that, check your wiring to your crank angle sensor. If any of the wiring to the sensor is loose or if water fouled it, then it may have the same effect.
Also, one solution to your front plugs is to use a 94 or newer valve cover and spark plug boots to go with it. The 94+ valve covers has a lip on it that the boot snaps into sealing it completely from water entering.
Well I swapped my module and that fixed the problem. I help a friends out with this same situation before. I thought that might do it. Fortunatly it was the problem. So tomorrow I have to convence the part store that it's a defective part. Being electrical, I might have a problem. Anyway I'm happy with how it turned out. Runs great. I just think it should have more power.......
I did get the wires and plug wells sealed up good. I'll have to post pictures later explaining what did.
here is the TB mounted ..the plenum is bigger than the 91-93 so it should to flow better in the higher rpms
I am having an off idle hesitation/ stumble with the modded intake..not sure if it's due to the configuration meaning it might be too big of a plenun or perhaps the injectors .They were sticking at first from setting for at least 2 yrs so, I am running techron through them and if that doesn't get rid of the stumble the next step is to swap out the injectors with my previous intake which had good injectors.
Even so, it sounds different on the top end and really comes alive as it catapults towards the rev limit
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 07-01-2008).]
well the conclusion is that the modded intake rocks! I had a weak pump ..only 30 psi and a partially clogged filter ..its funny that the weak pump and filter decided to announce itself after I changed the intake ..it seeemd to run ok before the intake swap. I figure without datalogging that the new freer flowing intake made it run more lean and the ECM could not keep up with fuel demands
here is the TB mounted ..the plenum is bigger than the 91-93 so it should to flow better in the higher rpms
