Just like everyone else in this thread.....I'd love to get this car, but shipping costs kill the deal. If the seller put $300 in parts and effort into the car, got it 100% road worthy and ready for a drive to its new home.....car would be sold months ago.
There's a limited market for fieros, let alone 3800s, that aren't good for the road and need paint and electrical fixes. The for sale forum is full of half finished or 'almost ready' 3800s. But in my opinion, this car is the nicest of that bunch. I've been looking for a 3800 II Fastback for about 6-8 months and seen a lot listed here, but not many that are 'road ready'.
Just like others, I'd love to fly in/drive home but driving there and back with a truck/trailer wastes a lot of time and gas, and even when you get it home.....who knows how much work it might take to get it on the road and reliable.
Long story short, if the car was road worthy, ready to go and had all these minor details addressed, it would be sold already. The board is full of "almost" done swaps and mods and cars that are 90% complete. That extra 10% makes 100% of the difference. Buyers don't want to inherit someone else's half project. People either want a "turn key" car, (where the phrase comes from)..... or a car they saw through from start to finish.
I'd love to buy this car, but just like everyone else here, too many unknowns and too much risk and cost associated with just getting the car from seller to buyer.
[This message has been edited by Engineering Kid (edited 03-17-2011).]
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03:09 PM
johnyrottin Member
Posts: 5467 From: Northwest Florida Registered: Oct 2007
Just like everyone else in this thread.....I'd love to get this car, but shipping costs kill the deal. If the seller put $300 in parts and effort into the car, got it 100% road worthy and ready for a drive to its new home.....car would be sold months ago.
There's a limited market for fieros, let alone 3800s, that aren't good for the road and need paint and electrical fixes. The for sale forum is full of half finished or 'almost ready' 3800s. But in my opinion, this car is the nicest of that bunch. I've been looking for a 3800 II Fastback for about 6-8 months and seen a lot listed here, but not many that are 'road ready'.
Just like others, I'd love to fly in/drive home but driving there and back with a truck/trailer wastes a lot of time and gas, and even when you get it home.....who knows how much work it might take to get it on the road and reliable.
Long story short, if the car was road worthy, ready to go and had all these minor details addressed, it would be sold already. The board is full of "almost" done swaps and mods and cars that are 90% complete. That extra 10% makes 100% of the difference. Buyers don't want to inherit someone else's half project. People either want a "turn key" car, (where the phrase comes from)..... or a car they saw through from start to finish.
I'd love to buy this car, but just like everyone else here, too many unknowns and too much risk and cost associated with just getting the car from seller to buyer.
the $300 in parts isnt the issue. Its the time and space to do the work. I now live in VT, the car 5 hours away in CT. If you read the description the master and slave are included in the sale. I dont have garrage space for the car anymore (not that what i had in the first place was anything to talk about, look at some of the swap pictures), and i'm just sick of working on the thing in the freezing cold on my back. sure I could bring my tool box back to CT and spend a weekend with the car, but the car will not be the same price anymore I can assure you that.
<Sigh> I like to stay out of these kind of arguements, but I think in this case the seller has a car that is worth more then what he is charging. He obviously is taking a lower price because it has a couple small issues.
It seems like everytime I see a thread like this, someone has to give their opinion on why the car isn't worth $X,XXX. There is an OBO in this listing, so make an offer (that he may or may not accept) or move on. When you post things in his thread saying that it isn't worth what he is asking, you are basically tanking his thread. People then get the mob mentality that it must not be worth it and start super-lowballing.
quote
Originally posted by Engineering Kid: Just like everyone else in this thread.....I'd love to get this car, but shipping costs kill the deal. If the seller put $300 in parts and effort into the car, got it 100% road worthy and ready for a drive to its new home.....car would be sold months ago.
Gas is going up. Shipping costs will go up. Don't expect this to get cheaper. Fly in there with some tools, swap the parts and drive it home.
quote
Originally posted by Engineering Kid: There's a limited market for fieros, let alone 3800s, that aren't good for the road and need paint and electrical fixes. The for sale forum is full of half finished or 'almost ready' 3800s. But in my opinion, this car is the nicest of that bunch. I've been looking for a 3800 II Fastback for about 6-8 months and seen a lot listed here, but not many that are 'road ready'.
There is a limited market for 3800sc Fieros? If people weren't interested there wouldn't be so many reads and posts on these types of threads. There also wouldn't be so many threads on 3800sc builds, people selling mounts and wiring harnesses, and shops that specialize in swaps.
There have been a couple of nice completed installs here in Mall, but they are more like $8,000-$10,000. Personally I have over $7,000 in my install and still working on it. If I had been more patient, I would have bought this and spent the extra money fixing it. I would rather get a car that needs painted so I can get it the color I want anyways. I think what you mean to say is that there aren't many 'road ready' 3800sc Fieros that are $5,000 (or whatever low price people think they should be). You need to total up all the performance parts that are in this car, it isn't a stock 3800sc either (I know that the Fiero1Fan headlight buckets and Hellas run $700).
quote
Originally posted by Engineering Kid: Just like others, I'd love to fly in/drive home but driving there and back with a truck/trailer wastes a lot of time and gas, and even when you get it home.....who knows how much work it might take to get it on the road and reliable.
Based on this comment you only have 3 options: 1. Build one yourself (if you can do it) and make it reliable. You will get a car that you can be proud of and know every little thing about the car. 2. You can pay the higher dollar price for one in perfect condition rather then look in the mid-range for a swapped car with a built motor and nice cosmetic mods. 3. Pay someone to do the swap for you like WCF. You can total it up, but I came up with $8,326 for the swap and you provide the car, engine and transmission. http://www.westcoastfiero.c...800sc-manual-ac.html
quote
Originally posted by Engineering Kid: Long story short, if the car was road worthy, ready to go and had all these minor details addressed, it would be sold already. The board is full of "almost" done swaps and mods and cars that are 90% complete. That extra 10% makes 100% of the difference. Buyers don't want to inherit someone else's half project. People either want a "turn key" car, (where the phrase comes from)..... or a car they saw through from start to finish.
What? Most "turn key" cars I see are more like $10,000 or better (especially if they provide the car and engine).
Now, since Jrgicehc has posted the parts that he has in the car, I just went out and dug up some prices from various places (the ones linked and places that I Googled).
Let's just ignore the cost of a red 88 Fiero with beechwood interior. Nobody wants a red 88 GT or the 88 (only) beechwood. Let's also skip over the interior modifications because someone will complain that there isn't a huge sub in the center console. Let's have a look at the engine and mods though: **$2,000+ If he got it from Ed Morad - Series II supercharged out of a 2000 or 2001 Grand prix, had somewhere around 70k on it **$469.99 - ZZP XP Hot Cam with 105 springs and modified retainers http://www.zzperformance.co...php?id=117&catid=104 **$109.99 - Rollmaster Timing Set http://www.zzperformance.co...php?id=388&catid=104 **$99.99 - ZZP modular pulley system with 3.25 installed http://www.zzperformance.co...php?id=205&catid=111 **$179.99 - ZZP power log and custom exhaust with no cat **$45.99 - Flotech afterburner muffler **$329.99 - Spec stage 4 clutch http://specclutch.com/cars/...ac/Fiero/1988/Single **$75.00 - FWD Getrag with Rodney conversion kit http://rodneydickman.com/ca...th=28&products_id=58 **$275.00 - Purple reign mounts https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/062388.html **$XXX.?? - Setup was Custom tuned by New Era Performance in Rochester NY - Dyno proven to 295hp and 305 lb/ft Suspension **$99+ - All poly bushings **$300+ - KYB struts **$114 each at tirerack - GForce TA KDW tires **$100 each was the cheapest I found online (but went up to about $400 each) - 17 inch Drag Dr 19 wheels Exterior **$100+ - Mustang Decklid scoop **$200+ - Mecham scoops **$700+ - Fiero1fan dual 90mm headlight buckets with hella 90mm beams https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/049551.html **Free - Custom faded paint Recently fixed issues **$99.99 - Selector cable replaced with a better than stock Rodney Dickman version http://rodneydickman.com/ca...th=28&products_id=37 **$22.99 - Installed Rodney steering rack bushing http://rodneydickman.com/ca...6_43&products_id=101
So, the total I come up with is $5,963.92. That doesn't count all the labor involved and you get a free 88 Fiero...
Seriously, if you're going to ***** about having to replace a master and slave cylinder, you really don't need a 3800SC Fiero. As long as I have another person to help bleed the clutch, I could have those parts changed out and bled in under 30 minutes. Fieroguy123 and I have done it before multiple times that fast.
The fact that it comes with those nice new replacements is a GOOD thing. It takes a tiny bit of time to change them, and then you have new high-quality parts on the car. Personally, I'd be more excited about having to change them and getting the new parts than I would be about getting it running and driving right with used OEM parts.
Good luck to everyone who wants to buy a completely trouble free OEM quality 3800SC Fiero for 5.5k. You're going to need it.
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03:18 PM
mptighe Member
Posts: 3321 From: Houston, TX Registered: Aug 2009
I honestly don't get all of the bickering in these threads. You're not going to by a 100% perfect 3800 Fiero for $5k, it's just not going to happen. Either the car will have mechanical issues, or something else "wrong" if you find one for $5k or less.
For the people complaining about the shipping costs, I JUST shipped my fiero from TX to NJ for $550, door to door service (which is cheaper than it would cost to either drive cross country or fly and get the car in many cases). If you shop around you can find a better price. This isn't "the last time I checked, this was the price", it's what I ACTUALLY paid 10 days ago.
There are a million reasons why someone will / won't buy a car. A buyer's reasons rarely have anything to do with the seller. He'll get his asking price, I'm sure of it. Spring is coming quickly, someone will snatch this car up.
[This message has been edited by mptighe (edited 03-21-2011).]
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03:19 PM
TeacherCreature Member
Posts: 64 From: Middletown, NY , USA Registered: Sep 2010
I totally think you mis interpreted his post and if anything your post is way more tanking of this for sale thread!
He was simply saying he thinks the car is great and if it was able to be driven home he would jump in line to buy it! You interpreted it as this car isnt worth the money!
I think you got it backwards unless he is known to be a troublemaker?
Im just saying this objectively since I am new here I didnt read into his post the way you did, but I think his point is valid no one is gonna fly across teh country to buy a car that isnt driveable home and hope to do the work and drive it home. I shouldnt say nobody but I wouldnt! What if you fly there and it has an issue, or you dont bring the right tool cuase something breaks or strips, or you get there and it snows for 4 days!!! (It snowed today)
I am just saying he wasnt being obnoxious and this thread is not an ongoing argument the way I think you might have interpreted it.... Anyway no one is mobbing against the car it is obviously awesome..
-PS what shipping company did you use? Got a Link?
Back to the orginal post anyone know what a 300HP/300FtLb fiero like this goes in the quarter mile?
[This message has been edited by TeacherCreature (edited 03-21-2011).]
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03:24 PM
mptighe Member
Posts: 3321 From: Houston, TX Registered: Aug 2009
Originally posted by TeacherCreature: -PS what shipping company did you use? Got a Link?
I started out with one of those online quote links, and out of all the quotes I picked Honesty First Transport. They have an A rating with the BBB, and I couldn't find ANY negatives about them on any online review sites. The quotes went from $500 - $900, with the average being $600 - $650. They're a broker, not the actual shipping company, but they were nice to deal with.
Back to the orginal post anyone know what a 300HP/300FtLb fiero like this goes in the quarter mile?
It went 12.85 at 109mph Esta (your from NY i'm sure you know that that place is a joke). anywhere else that is probably a 12.75. but I blew the tranny the next run which also destroyed my stage 3 pressure plate and clutch. I put that "better" front wheel drive tranny in it because of this. but i never ran it again because i didnt want to take the cradle out again with my engine hoist and jack stands (gets old after a few times).
[This message has been edited by Jrgicehc (edited 03-21-2011).]
I totally think you mis interpreted his post and if anything your post is way more tanking of this for sale thread!
He was simply saying he thinks the car is great and if it was able to be driven home he would jump in line to buy it! You interpreted it as this car isnt worth the money!
What I read is quoted. He posted that it is the nicest of the uncompleted swaps. He also says that if it was a complete 100% swap he would come get it. My point is if it was 100% complete, it would sell for more then $5,500 obo. The seller agrees that he could fix it but he would raise the price.
I started out with one of those online quote links, and out of all the quotes I picked Honesty First Transport. They have an A rating with the BBB, and I couldn't find ANY negatives about them on any online review sites. The quotes went from $500 - $900, with the average being $600 - $650. They're a broker, not the actual shipping company, but they were nice to deal with.
What I read is quoted. He posted that it is the nicest of the uncompleted swaps. He also says that if it was a complete 100% swap he would come get it. My point is if it was 100% complete, it would sell for more then $5,500 obo. The seller agrees that he could fix it but he would raise the price.
That's my point as well. You've made a strawman argument and tried to fabricate a defense to arguments I wasn't making (price not being reasonable or repairs being difficult etc). As for the line item cost analysis; I'd imagine you view cars as investments, where every expense increases the value by the exact amount spent?
I'd love to pay more for a road ready car, but that's not an option in this case, and I'm afraid of flying across the continent with a bag full of hand tools and being stranded missing a washer or nut, or trying to flush the cylinder by myself at 2 am. If I were the seller, I'd take the car to a shop, get $500 of work done and get the car ready for a drive anywhere....and up the price by $1000.
If it is so close to being 'ready'......why not tip the scales and get it to 100% ready, and appeal to a wide audience. The car is a steal for someone who may live close and can take the risk of fixing the car or getting it to a repair facility, but for the rest of us, the risk of unknown repairs looms large.
Just my opinion, which seems to be contorted and misconstrued. Free bump as well.
That's my point as well. You've made a strawman argument and tried to fabricate a defense to arguments I wasn't making (price not being reasonable or repairs being difficult etc). As for the line item cost analysis; I'd imagine you view cars as investments, where every expense increases the value by the exact amount spent?
I'd love to pay more for a road ready car, but that's not an option in this case, and I'm afraid of flying across the continent with a bag full of hand tools and being stranded missing a washer or nut, or trying to flush the cylinder by myself at 2 am. If I were the seller, I'd take the car to a shop, get $500 of work done and get the car ready for a drive anywhere....and up the price by $1000.
If it is so close to being 'ready'......why not tip the scales and get it to 100% ready, and appeal to a wide audience. The car is a steal for someone who may live close and can take the risk of fixing the car or getting it to a repair facility, but for the rest of us, the risk of unknown repairs looms large.
Just my opinion, which seems to be contorted and misconstrued. Free bump as well.
why not tip the scales and get it 100% road ready? because I already have a ton of money into this car and another $500 isnt an option for me. I am done spending money on this car. it is what it is and if you dont like it then don't post. Its a for sale thread, not a rant about why everyone in the mall has unfinished cars. Guess what, these are fieros and they are never finished, there is always something wrong with them. I am taking your post as degrading to my car, and i dont appreciate it. there are positives and negatives to every car, i think I outlined the negatives fairly and priced it accordingly, and apparently there are some people that agree with me. so please take your negative comments elsewhere.
why not tip the scales and get it 100% road ready? because I already have a ton of money into this car and another $500 isnt an option for me. I am done spending money on this car. it is what it is and if you dont like it then don't post. Its a for sale thread, not a rant about why everyone in the mall has unfinished cars. Guess what, these are fieros and they are never finished, there is always something wrong with them. I am taking your post as degrading to my car, and i dont appreciate it. there are positives and negatives to every car, i think I outlined the negatives fairly and priced it accordingly, and apparently there are some people that agree with me. so please take your negative comments elsewhere.
I tried going the private route and discussing things with you behind the scenes but you are challenged in returning emails and calls so I'll do it publicly.
I've done research both internally (on the board, w/ other members, your previous threads/post) and externally (tranny shops, good ole google, friends w/ automotive experience) and my concern is if it was just the master/slave clutch cylinders, why didn't you troubleshoot it back in September 2009 when you firsted presented the issue here:
All the replies except one suggested replacing those parts along w/ a good bleeding. What about the one reply in the thread where the poster said when his Iron Duke powered Fiero did the same exact thing, it was broken splines on the pressure plate. THAT'S the reason I (and I would figure others) are hesitant to buy it. If one knew it was just the master/slave for sure and you'd GUARANTEE it, the shipping would be no problem. Then again, if the clutch cylinders was really the issue I doubt very seriously you'd be vehemently against doing this quick fix yourself. 30 mins to 1 hr for an accomplished mechanic such as yourself and you could get $1k - $2k more? Doesn't add up. You don't have any family/friends who'd let you borrow their garage for a few hours? If it was a more serious problem and you disclosed such, again, that be fine too. However, you told me yourself that you frequent the city where the car is presently located. If the car can go for approx. 30 mins before clutch pedal starts fading and it was too cold for you to work on it, I'm sure there are tranny shops, and if not, general automotive garages in the vicinity that would love to do a quick 1hr. job for $200-$300 MAX so you could sell the car with easy for $1k - $2k than you're asking for it, even with the idle issue.
Don't get it twisted, I love the car. I still want to buy it, come and ship it back, and take the risk of it being something more than just the clutch master/slave cylinder. However, I don't think it's cool that you ignore my attempts to communicate if you are being totally honest and really want to move this diamond in the rough of a car. I'm done. Hopefully, it will be sold to some lucky guy, possibly even myself if you don't take this post personally and would still sell to me in the event I decide I wanted to go ahead and grab it. However I'm sure someone else will sweep it right from under me because, lets face it, it is a sweet ride.....
[This message has been edited by akademikjeanius (edited 03-24-2011).]
I am assuming you are talking about fingers instead of "splines" on the pressure plate. if fingers are breaking off your pressure plate that is a failure due to age, heat, and many miles. It is not something that starts happening to a Spec pressure plate with 4000 miles. This type of mechanical failure will affect the pedal every time you press the clutch in. it will not be dependant on heat or driving distance as my car is. the explanation of fingers breaking off of the pressure plate (i am assuming this is what you are talking about because there are no splines on a pressure plate) makes no sense in this case.
I am assuming you are talking about fingers instead of "splines" on the pressure plate. if fingers are breaking off your pressure plate that is a failure due to age, heat, and many miles. It is not something that starts happening to a Spec pressure plate with 4000 miles. This type of mechanical failure will affect the pedal every time you press the clutch in. it will not be dependant on heat or driving distance as my car is. the explanation of fingers breaking off of the pressure plate (i am assuming this is what you are talking about because there are no splines on a pressure plate) makes no sense in this case.
My mistake @ calling fingers, splines. Thanks for the correction and information.
Still curious as to why, after a year and a half, this was never addressed if it was something as simple as the clutch master/slave cylinders?
Does the clutch get stiffer and stiffer until it won't engage anymore or does it work just fine at the 29 minute mark and then completely fail to engage at the 30 minute mark? Did any fluid leak on the clutch plate?
I read that if driven too long in this state, premature clutch failure could occur.
My mistake @ calling fingers, splines. Thanks for the correction and information.
Still curious as to why, after a year and a half, this was never addressed if it was something as simple as the clutch master/slave cylinders?
Does the clutch get stiffer and stiffer until it won't engage anymore or does it work just fine at the 29 minute mark and then completely fail to engage at the 30 minute mark? Did any fluid leak on the clutch plate?
I read that if driven too long in this state, premature clutch failure could occur.
I was a professional mechanic, the last thing i wanted to do when i got home was work on my car, i had a motorcycle so i just rode that instead all summer. It gradually gets lower and lower and eventually you loose the pedal. and yes if you have no feel for your clutch you can burn it out by not realizing when your foot is all the way down the clutch isnt completely disengaging. even if you dont feel the clutch not disengaging, the grinding in and out of gear gives you a hint there is a problem.
I was a professional mechanic, the last thing i wanted to do when i got home was work on my car, i had a motorcycle so i just rode that instead all summer. It gradually gets lower and lower and eventually you loose the pedal. and yes if you have no feel for your clutch you can burn it out by not realizing when your foot is all the way down the clutch isnt completely disengaging. even if you dont feel the clutch not disengaging, the grinding in and out of gear gives you a hint there is a problem.
I can understand that. @ don't want to get under a car after being under them all day and rolling what you preferred to (the motorcycle) by that point anyway.
Is there a possibility it could be something more than the master/slave cylinders, clutch lines, and/or needing a good bleeding?
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10:17 PM
Luke Member
Posts: 467 From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Registered: Nov 2005
I shouldn't be stoking the fire but I can’t help it I have a spec stage 3 and a Rodney adapter for FWD getrag and have the same problem as this car. Only difference my problem popped up after 25-30k km on the swap.
Here's a simple explanation:
The spec pressure plate requires a lot more pedal force than a stock clutch, a LOT. Our hydraulic systems aren’t that great to begin with. The same exact thing happened to my Fiero and the master finally went bad in stop and go traffic. I performed an emergency bleed in a gas station parking lot and got it working again. BUT it’s still not perfect, that’s what I get for using a used master with a new slave and new race clutch. I am 99.9% sure Jason is being honest and correct in his assertion of the problem.
Another sidebar story:
I had a new stock clutch installed in a sunfire GT of mine, and it comes with a new hydraulic throwout bearing. It all got installed and my master couldn't provide enough pressure for the brand new bearing. New master was thrown in and presto my new clutch worked great.
No matter what, buying a used car with a swap is a risk and that’s that.
I shouldn't be stoking the fire but I can’t help it I have a spec stage 3 and a Rodney adapter for FWD getrag and have the same problem as this car. Only difference my problem popped up after 25-30k km on the swap.
Here's a simple explanation:
The spec pressure plate requires a lot more pedal force than a stock clutch, a LOT. Our hydraulic systems aren’t that great to begin with. The same exact thing happened to my Fiero and the master finally went bad in stop and go traffic. I performed an emergency bleed in a gas station parking lot and got it working again. BUT it’s still not perfect, that’s what I get for using a used master with a new slave and new race clutch. I am 99.9% sure Jason is being honest and correct in his assertion of the problem.
So, what master/slave cylinder did you replace it with? Did you use Fiero Store or something local like Advanced Auto, AutoZone, NAPA? I'm just curious since included is a new master cylinder from the Fiero Store and Rodney Dickman aluminum slave cylinder. I think they are probably better then the stuff from Advanced Auto or AutoZone...
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07:12 AM
cam-a-lot Member
Posts: 2133 From: Barrie- Ontario, Canada Registered: Oct 2010
check your email. I might buy this car just to stop this endless thread. Wife will shoot me if I end up with a fourth 88 GT...but wives can always be replaced
I shouldn't be stoking the fire but I can’t help it I have a spec stage 3 and a Rodney adapter for FWD getrag and have the same problem as this car. Only difference my problem popped up after 25-30k km on the swap.
Here's a simple explanation:
The spec pressure plate requires a lot more pedal force than a stock clutch, a LOT. Our hydraulic systems aren’t that great to begin with. The same exact thing happened to my Fiero and the master finally went bad in stop and go traffic. I performed an emergency bleed in a gas station parking lot and got it working again. BUT it’s still not perfect, that’s what I get for using a used master with a new slave and new race clutch. I am 99.9% sure Jason is being honest and correct in his assertion of the problem.
Another sidebar story:
I had a new stock clutch installed in a sunfire GT of mine, and it comes with a new hydraulic throwout bearing. It all got installed and my master couldn't provide enough pressure for the brand new bearing. New master was thrown in and presto my new clutch worked great.
No matter what, buying a used car with a swap is a risk and that’s that.
By all means, Luke, chime on. This is all very enlightening information. I, for one, am glad you shared this. Each one, teach one, and reach one.....
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08:36 AM
Luke Member
Posts: 467 From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Registered: Nov 2005
That was last spring and I havent gotten around to it, bleeding the air out of it fixed it enough that it was tolerable and I didnt drive it enough to feel like changing it. I have a new fierostore master sitting in my garage which will go into my car before I sell it (or start driving it again) depending on whether I end up buying his car.
As a sidenote, I've always hated the spec clutches ever since I got my stage 3, if you feel that driving stick in traffic sucks wait till you drive a spec in stop and go, your foot will go numb and then your knee, the thing feels like a leg press
I have a local builder that builds stock feeling clutches that can hold 400 hp, thats what will eventually end up going in whatever 3800sc 5spd swap I end up with.
[This message has been edited by Luke (edited 03-30-2011).]
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09:14 AM
Luke Member
Posts: 467 From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Registered: Nov 2005
Well I do have to say the car is much nicer in person and goes like stink
Jason was really great to deal with and a great guy if anything he was being modest about how good the car is. Wish we had more time to hang out but it was a two day trip back.
The car is now in Ontario with me being the very happy owner.
It will get a 12" vette upgrade, a catalytic, some cosmetic touch ups fiixes and then hit the local fiero gatherings, I cant wait.
Well I do have to say the car is much nicer in person and goes like stink
Jason was really great to deal with and a great guy if anything he was being modest about how good the car is. Wish we had more time to hang out but it was a two day trip back.
The car is now in Ontario with me being the very happy owner.
It will get a 12" vette upgrade, a catalytic, some cosmetic touch ups fiixes and then hit the local fiero gatherings, I cant wait.
So now do you see why I was insisting on you driving it?
Man it is weird seeing the car in other people's pictures, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. Keep me posted on how everything goes, for obvious reasons I probably wont be around here much anymore but shoot me an email, I would love to hear from you and maybe see some pictures. Good luck with the car, I'm glad she found a good home.
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09:09 PM
PFF
System Bot
nitroheadz28 Member
Posts: 4774 From: Brooklyn, NY Registered: Mar 2010
You know, I was just looking at this car today. I got some more quotes on fixing the frame on my 87GT and it looks like I'll be parting it out, this Fiero has always been on my radar but it looks like I waited too long. Good luck to the new owner!
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09:14 PM
johnyrottin Member
Posts: 5467 From: Northwest Florida Registered: Oct 2007
Jason is a great guy and I would love to habe bought the car from him. Whoever bought it got a great deal on a great car. Once it is sorted it will go...and stop from the sounds of it...like stink!!!!
I will definitely update you on its progress Jason. My 3400 86 GT which I spent a lot of my life and money will soon be up for sale for a fraction of its build price so I can imagine how you feel letting go of it. I promise I will treat it well.
I have a new Jetta TDI 6spd as a DD so the car is guaranteed to never see snow, salt, or even rain (if the weatherman works with me, hehe). It does have great frame rails, I was surprised.
I had already imported an 88 ttop chassis 3 years ago so I had some experience importing, along with some quick tips from cam-a-lot, it actually went smoother than I expected, only about 30-40 minutes. I think we saved some time because we crossed the border around 11ish on a Monday.
Big difference was that Buffalo (Lewiston) accepted an email with the vin 72 hours in advance whereas Gananoque required the original title 72 hours in advance (ridiculous). I am glad I did extra research before leaving. It also used to be that you could import on a weekend, now its monday to friday 8am to 4pm.
Jason: I also gave you a + on feedback, not that it matters, since I think you generously gave me every 3800 and fiero related part you could find.
IP: Logged
10:52 PM
Dec 10th, 2011
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
