Thanks, Patrik.
.20 was a typo.
I didn't intend to take the starter apart. I expected a screw or a clip would be there to keep it together.
I was wrong.
I'll see if I can pick up a key at the hardware store, and connect the ground wire that was left loose on the assembly line 30 years ago and try it again.

Before long, I'll be a BS expert!

[This message has been edited by NEPTUNE (edited 01-03-2012).]

don't let them sell you a steel key. As we said it's a soft key of Aluminum. almost feels like it's made of lead...

actually NEPTUNE. should you not be able to get a key for some odd reason i have a few extra laying around ive saved from junk motors i took apart. so if you really need it, i can send you a key.

and yes it is a aluminum key so it can shear DO NOT put a steel key in there.

ok, all for now.

have you had a chance to work on it yet?

ur 2 day bump. hope u get it figured out.

Thanks Matt.

I've just been too busy with work to touch it.

I bought 'soft metal' keys@ Ace, and I'm planning to work on it tomorrow afternoon.
Of course I'll post an update.
Thanks to you and everyone else who jumped in for the Briggs& Stratton 101 course!


$2.99.
Yeah!

[This message has been edited by NEPTUNE (edited 01-09-2012).]

quote Originally posted by NEPTUNE: I've just been too busy with work to touch it.

Geez, do Matt and I have to catch flights down there to work on that thing?

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Geez, do Matt and I have to catch flights down there to work on that thing?

I'll do the best I can, Patrick.
I was going to say it was too cold on my last day off, but, well, it was an unusually cold 46 F, so that's no excuse, is it.

[This message has been edited by NEPTUNE (edited 01-10-2012).]

the tools are always at the ready. just spring for some travel money and we get you fixed up in no time flat. lol just keep us updated!

R&R flywheel, installed new key.




I cleaned my balls and reinstalled the starter.
It seems that there should be (or was) a ring and two little screws holding it together.
They're probably in somebody's pile like the one that we all have on our workbenches.
No problem, the starter works OK with just two little screws holding it and the screen together .

Upon reassembly, I noticed a slight scraping between the coil and flywheel, so I regapped the coil using my official high tech gap measuring device:




Nope.
Nada.
Not a pop, no spark.
Again, when my Fiero coils failed, it was always when hot, and after cooling down, the engine would start and run for a while.
This engine stopped within a couple of seconds of starting cold.
I'll go back and put the little wire that was loose onto the coil mounting screw, and check the point gap again.
I'm pretty sure the points and condenser are new.

[This message has been edited by NEPTUNE (edited 01-10-2012).]

haha. u call that hot! thats pretty decent. u have to come up here during a real winter and see how cold it gets!

also just because the points and condensor look new doesn't mean they are. id look at getting some. condensors can fail just sitting on the shelf. if it ran before there must be something that was working and then failed. but your shear key being correct now is good, now its in time.

hey. neptune. sorry if i was a bit insenstive in my last reply.
?
any updates have you gotten the points and condensor yet

It'll be a few days at least.
Work and a short road trip with SWMBO come first....

Thank you for asking.
BTW, it'll be in the twenties this weekend in North Florida where we're going.

I've got a couple of magnetos from the old go-kart racing days with that funky little thing that does away with the points. I figure that one of them should be good. I'll throw both of them in a flat-rate box and send them if you want them. PM me your address if interested.

Mine broke (Tecumseh 8HP) and I fixed it all in the same day. Took ALL DAY but I got it

-oil change and new spark plug in September
-attempt to start, no start, after 40 pulls, cord rips out
-reattach cord, still no start
-test spark with automotive spark tester, setting gap to .030, have spark
-rebuild carb (which was in surprisingly good shape for never having been touched in 10 years since it left the factory), starts second pull

RWDPLZ

i can't even tell you the number of them ive worked on. almost everyday this winter ive torn apart one of them and soaked and rebult them.

its amazing what this new gas does to things. just amazing!

Replaced the condenser and gapped the points today.
Checked the wires for bare spots or breaks.
I didn't find any, but I taped them anyway.
Remember, the engine died about 1-2 seconds after starting from cold.

Still no spark.

[This message has been edited by NEPTUNE (edited 01-23-2012).]

quote Originally posted by NEPTUNE: Replaced the condenser and gapped the points today. Checked the wires for bare spots or breaks. I didn't find any, but I taped them anyway. Remember, the engine died about 1-2 seconds after starting from cold. Still no spark.

Not much left but the coil. You might want to take up Cooter's offer on the magnetos, or maybe check out a local small engine repair shop & see if they have a used one.

Yep. thats what I thought

Neptune.

now that you should(read as new parts can be faulty) have a good condensor all that you can do is replace the coil. we have a tester at work, but idk if anyone local to you would have one or would test one.

at work my boss doesn't test them with the machine in situations like this he just replaces it and all is well. i seem to have extra coils around here as well, i can check and see what i have if you would like, they should be good as i normally only take off of running engines that have other issues.

just a thought. btw something i learned that i feel to share. is when using the plug to check for spark you do not put a load on the igntion system, what you want to do use a spark tester of some sort to put a load on the system. that will tell you if you have a good spark because if you have a load and no spark that means you may get fire to the plug but once you try to start the engine under load you will not have spark.


perhaps this info may not be of much use but i hope that i can help. keep us posted!

edit to add info. just another thought that crossed my mind.

once you can verify spark with another coil, from what you have said should solve your no spark issue and hopefully be all you have to do.

if you have a run and quit situation pull your bowl jet on the carb, if you see dirt in the holes or old gas take some wire and clean that out. when you look in the bowl determine the shape of the carb. is it discolored and very dirty? if so you may need pull the carb. and soak it overnight to clean it up. should the bowl just have some dirt but clean otherwise you should be able to just put it back on and try again.

[This message has been edited by red84sematt (edited 01-25-2012).]

any updates?

hope you got it going now.

I got a new Magnetron coil on Amazon. All BS coils are interchaneable, so why not upgrade, right?
Wrong.
Mounting holes don't match the bosses on the cylinder.
I'll have to drill them out before I can mount the damn thing.
Thanks for asking.

keep me posted.

yah ive run into the mounting holes are the same a few times. i didn't think to warn you about that one, sorry. hope all goes well !!

hey, any update?

did you make that one work? or are you stalled again? hope all worked out.

Installed new coil, set gap with business card:
(its the one on the right)



I have been told that a late model magnetron coil can be put in an older engine, just remove/ ignore the points and condensor.
So thats what I did,





I'm really getting tired of working on this thing.

[This message has been edited by NEPTUNE (edited 03-20-2012).]

*bump* ever fix this?

Update Please...
Anyone know if cleaning the rust off,these edges is going to make a diffrence?

quote Originally posted by James Bond 007: Anyone know if cleaning the rust off these edges is going to make a diffrence?

No difference.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: No difference.

Well it will look nicer. Take a wire wheel to the whole thing, then paint it.

quote Originally posted by RWDPLZ: Well it will look nicer. Take a wire wheel to the whole thing, then paint it.

Who the heck is going to see it with the cowling on?

Perhaps the magnets have gone bad in the flywheel? Happened to my neighbour's kid's go-kart. I changed the coil etc, but still didn't run..checked the magnets, and they were well down, far enough to hardly create a spark.

quote Originally posted by fierofetish: Perhaps the magnets have gone bad in the flywheel? Happened to my neighbour's kid's go-kart. I changed the coil etc, but still didn't run..checked the magnets, and they were well down, far enough to hardly create a spark.

As odd as this sounds, I've seen it on a couple car distributors, where the magnets were extremely weak.

I rebuilt the carb on a 6HP Briggs & Stratton today in a 1998 Toro SR-21S push mower, also replaced the self-propel belt, the cutting blade, and the air filter. Made me think of this thread.