I'm going back and forth about as much as i did DOHC/L67, now between SPEC's Stage 3 or 4. They are rated the same, some say the springs fail and explode in some, so I was leaning towards a 4. I'm looking for, basically short reviews, how the pedal felt, how grabby was it, could you slip it like stock clutch in traffic etc. I really don't want to buy a 3 and have it explode, or buy a 4 and never be able to do anything but burnouts because it grabs too hard (on/off).
My setup its going to be a a Fiero v6 4 speed and a fairly modded L67 (XP Cam, N* TB, headers, 3.2" pulley...). Not a tranny discussion, unless its relevant in terms of short gears etc.
So tell me about your expirences. Thanks!
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12:46 PM
PFF
System Bot
17Car Member
Posts: 482 From: Morrisdale, PA Registered: Jun 2009
Have an unsprung Spec 4 on my V8. Pedal effort is not for the sissy and it is closer to on-off but not too horrible. Can be used in street but i wouldn't like to have it as a true daily driver where I use the car for every little trip. But if you don't want it to slip then it is for you.
------------------ Red: TPI V8 + 6-Speed White: 3800SC auto 304rwHP/366rwTQ
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02:50 PM
chrishahn87 Member
Posts: 1584 From: East Berlin, Pa - USA Registered: Dec 2004
I know you asked about Spec 3 or Spec 4, but I can only comment on Spec 3+
I have a Spec 3+ between a 355 V8 TPI and Getrag. With the torque of the motor there is absolutly no slip in the clutch when I get on it. As far as driveability, its more harsh than the stock clutch but it is manageable and once you get used to it, its not too bad.
I will be using a Spec III + clutch with a 383 in the next month or two. It is supposedly more drivable in traffic than the Spec III and has less of the "grabby" feel when shifting.
Nelson
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06:08 PM
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7405 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
Yes but what kinda power are you putting down? I'm about 325 at the crank.
A clutch is to be used appropriately with the power levels listed by the manufacturer. If you make more than what its made for, then its not the clutch thats the problem as it wasn't designed for that purpose. So get a higher rating clutch.
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12:52 PM
RULOOKIN Member
Posts: 1157 From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jan 2010
Ya sure go spec !! but when this happens dont think it is your crank in your motor that is blown! thats what it will sound like, this problem has been outlined in many threads !! and here we go again !! I am very unhappy right now !! to put it lightly Oh and yes i did a compleat rebuild on my motor as well thinking it was the crank !! Soulution apparently is to mill down the camero flywheel to .820 not .840 to allow clearance for the PP Now i have realy thrown a wrench into some peoples projects !!! Good to know Jeremy at Spec is possibly sending me a new PP Car had 250Km not miles before this happened ??????
[This message has been edited by RULOOKIN (edited 07-17-2011).]
A clutch is to be used appropriately with the power levels listed by the manufacturer. If you make more than what its made for, then its not the clutch thats the problem as it wasn't designed for that purpose. So get a higher rating clutch.
Yes I dident install the clutch thats in my car. In looking at the spec's torque and power list for what clutch my car needs the stage 2 Was just within specs for what my car needed but boarderline not good enough the stage 3 i ordered from clutchnet is suposedley over kill for it.
If you want to drive the car a lot and you don't want to worry about the sprung hub flaking out, go with the 4+. I have the stage 4 and having a 6 disc rigid hub clutch is pretty chatter prone. The stage 4+ will have a smoother engagement and not chatter nearly as much.
[This message has been edited by JamesCurtis (edited 07-17-2011).]
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08:02 PM
02greens10 Member
Posts: 813 From: Ashland, Ohio Registered: Feb 2008
Never drove neither but I did a pretty extensive search on Spec 3 clutches here on the forum and found a lot of blown out hub springs. I thought i would share my reasearch with you, and you can decide. I decided to go with a Clutchnet set-up based on all that.
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10:09 PM
86GTFastback Member
Posts: 347 From: Marion, OH, US Registered: Apr 2009
Never drove neither but I did a pretty extensive search on Spec 3 clutches here on the forum and found a lot of blown out hub springs. I thought i would share my reasearch with you, and you can decide. I decided to go with a Clutchnet set-up based on all that.
I found the same results, I called Clutchnet, was told to call back later. Called later, left a message, and emailed them. It's been a few days, i've done my part, if they don't want my business thats fine.
[This message has been edited by 86GTFastback (edited 07-17-2011).]
I found the same results, I called Clutchnet, was told to call back later. Called later, left a message, and emailed them. It's been a few days, i've done my part, if they don't want my business thats fine.
I just bought a stage 3 from them.. only costed me about $350 for a custom done clutch stage 3 PP and a half composite half carbon Kevlar disk. it came highly recommended. If this is going to be an int he future thing for you I'll let you know how my formula treats it. If it can hold up under the abuse of that thing it can hold up under anything.
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03:30 AM
PFF
System Bot
Oreif Member
Posts: 16460 From: Schaumburg, IL Registered: Jan 2000
Well I have a SPEC 3 in my car. Had it since October of 2004 in a 4-spd manual hooked up to a ZZ4 V-8. It has been to the drag strip a few times, many road courses, and driven often in the summer. Have not had any problems at all.
I've had both spec 3 & 4. My spec 3 exploded after a 1500 miles of use. I narrowed it down to the input shaft bearing being bad on a transmission I had with 200k miles on it. Basically the springs worked their way out of the clutch and almost damaged the flywheel. Vibration (caused by the bad bearing) is the cause of this. You are less likely to have this problem with 1. A good transmission, 2. A full face disc.
I upgraded to the stage 4 because it is unsprung. It is not a full face but I believe stage 5 is. Not too much difference in pedal feel. It has been reliable ever since (3 years).
EDIT: Here is the link to the thread I posted. Spec was very good on resolving this issue along with Aamco for measuring my new and old transmission free of charge.
I'm running a unsprung 6 puck spec. Its aggressive engagement but you get used to it and it holds great with 300 + hp no slip. I've been using it for a year no problems so far. One thing to note, it will wear into your flywheel surface a bit
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05:57 PM
86GTFastback Member
Posts: 347 From: Marion, OH, US Registered: Apr 2009
I just bought a stage 3 from them.. only costed me about $350 for a custom done clutch stage 3 PP and a half composite half carbon Kevlar disk. it came highly recommended. If this is going to be an int he future thing for you I'll let you know how my formula treats it. If it can hold up under the abuse of that thing it can hold up under anything.
Its a I'm hoping to install in the next month or so, if Clutchnet doesn't return calls or emails for prospective income, how are they going to treat me once they have my money? I may try again and call them this week just so I don't have to worry about the springs exploding, otherwise I may take my chances with a SPEC, they actually took the time to talk with me.
[This message has been edited by 86GTFastback (edited 07-18-2011).]
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10:11 PM
fieroguru Member
Posts: 12462 From: Champaign, IL Registered: Aug 2003
I have had a Spec Stage 2+, Stage 3, and Stage 3+ behind my SBC fiero over the years and prefer the Stage 3+. For me a streetable clutch needs to be able to spend 3+ hrs in stop/go traffic where you move 1 car length at a time and the Stage 3+ really shines over the Stage 3 in this regard.
For my LS4/F40 swap I went with a 10" Spec Stage 4+ to increase the clutch diameter to further help drivability/streetablity.
I have looked at a few clutch net clutches... and while they can be less expensive, they do not have any ratings and they do not offer the full face material similar to the Stage 3+.