here are my pics soo far... please forgive the time at the bottom, I havent set the clock back on the cam yet....

This is what i purchased at wal-mart for under $10


A view of the wing


A picture of the decklid and my closet exploding "lookin for Camera atachment"


a picture of the decklid upright.

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[This message has been edited by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT (edited 11-02-2006).]

a view of the wing upright


A view of Kristina checkin out her behind in the reflection


Yet another view of her liking my paint job


a close up view of paint... and coffee pot lol


Promoting Pepsi

[This message has been edited by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT (edited 11-02-2006).]

Did you paint directly over the old paint? Looks good so far

yup i scrubbed the old paint with some dawn dish soap to get rid all dirt, then i started painting away!!!

Did you do any wet sanding or polishing of the paint?

Fran

This morning i started painting around 10ish. I let dry until around 5pm, then I wetsanded with 800 grit and then i applied the 2nd coat. The 2nd coat seems to dry a little quicker, or maybe its cause i turned up the heat... This is all the farther i've got. I havent done any polishing yet, This is what the paint looks like with 1 coat directly over white, wetsand, then a 2nd coat.

[This message has been edited by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT (edited 11-02-2006).]

Nice rear end, and the paint aint bad either

[This message has been edited by David DeVoe (edited 11-02-2006).]

she says thanks..
well i guess we both say thanks to that one....

[This message has been edited by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT (edited 11-02-2006).]

Keep us posted on this one!!! Thanks!!!

If you're gonna do anymore painting, clean the part with Acetone, then scuff the old paint before you paint.

Are you keeping track of how much you're thinning the paint or are you just eyeballing it? As I understand from the other thread, thinning is what makes the paint flow out smooth.

Geeze, it must be difficult to move throughout the house and eat breakfast at the table with all those parts!

I have a i small container and i bigger container.. I'm doing a 50/50 mix. so i fill the little one up once with paint, and once with mineral spirits, and i have my 50/50 mixture
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as far as moving around the house goes, I'm the only one home alll day long. Kristina "my fiancee" goes to college from 8am - 4pm, then goes to work from 4pm to 8-9 pm.... so i have the house to my self.... Plus she supports all of my "ideas".... Usually with a pat on the head and a "your going good honey keep it up"

Looks like someone needs to contribute to the Girls Without Fieros thread...

I think I cringed a little as I read the title, but hey, that paint looks a heck of lot better than I thought it would.

I would definately recommend scuffing up the white paint before applying the black so it adheres better. You may have issues with the paint flaking on the parts were you didn't.

Are you painting with a roller as in the $50 Paint job thread?

looks good

yes I am following the $50 (non-rattle can) thread...

what grit paper do you suggest i scuff with ?

[This message has been edited by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT (edited 11-03-2006).]

quote Originally posted by David DeVoe: Nice rear end, and the paint aint bad either

I agree with ya there..

quote Originally posted by GonsaiPK: Looks like someone needs to contribute to the Girls Without Fieros thread... I think I cringed a little as I read the title, but hey, that paint looks a heck of lot better than I thought it would.

already there... way back on pg. 16. A pic of her and a pic of both of us.

Some scotch-brite or 400 grit wetdry sandpaper to scuff the old paint.I would go with the scotch-brite the maroon stuff.

[This message has been edited by chopfren-z (edited 11-05-2006).]

bump

looking good so far, Im defaintly going to go with this setup to get my bumper fix !!!!


I worked with this stuff at work before, That paint sticks to almost anything and dries very hard.

[This message has been edited by 86fieroEarl (edited 11-06-2006).]

Omg this stuff works great !! I had a little finder binder and had to repair my bumper, a pic of my rustolium bumper job !!

[This message has been edited by 86fieroEarl (edited 11-07-2006).]

Please keep up the good work. My car needs a paint job in the worst way but first things first, it has to be fast and furious so I'll get started after the engine transplant. I was thinking white until someone mentioned the potential for yellowing over time, so now I'm going with my favorite color, black. Post more pictures when you can.

Wonder if you could mix metal flake in to that paint?

quote Originally posted by jeffndebrus: What about the ridge that will be left when you lift the tape off?

The wetsanding and buffing will take it out I already took the tape off on my 4th coat and did some wetsanding, It came right out, The paint is very thin and easy to deal with.

"Wonder if you could mix metal flake in to that paint?"
i wondered the exact same thing, and on the Moparts.org thread the thought is to mix it into a clear coat rather than the color. i'm going to try it both ways on my practice panel this winter, in the comfort of my living room. i'm going for an approximation of the medium red metallic original fiero color, to cover the crappy bright red repaint job on my '85. if it comes out as good as BLK86FSTBAKGT's, it's definitely worth experimenting with.
i found flake here
http://www.paintwithpearl.com/
if anyone with more painting experience has a better source, i'd be grateful for a pointer.

good job, BLK, and Earl, i'm definitely gonna give this a try now
how does the urethane behave? any special prep needed?

[This message has been edited by TorqueWench (edited 11-08-2006).]

This is a GREAT thread!

I went out to Home Depot and bought a very small can of this! My car is the exact same as yours! I'm going to repaint the wing first, just to check it out and see if it works real well! I just want to keep my car white though! I'll keep an eye out on the yellowing! If it yellows, and the paint job works good, I'll just repaint the car black or something!

Great write-up, thanks! I'll keep an eye on this!

Just some thoughts on this process... Wet sanding will give a greater shine, you've gone this far, don't skip on getting the paint as smooth as you can. As far as the metal flake goes, I doubt that it will work with a roller. Even with a spray can, the flake is diffficult to get to look spread out nice and evenly. I could be wrong though- I haven't tried it myself, just going on my experience using a metalic grey spray on my roof top, which by the way I need to sand and do over because of some bubbling due to my inability to be patient. Grrrrrrrrrrr...

quote Originally posted by F-I-E-R-O: Oh yeah... Real men don't work with "Odorless Spirits!"

Then maybe you should get ahold of some of the stuff I'm using to strip the wallpaper adhesive off of my bathroom walls. Works great once you regain consciousness. lol

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Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck
'87 GT Auto
'88 Ferrario
'84 Indy (8/26/06)

quote Originally posted by whadeduck: Then maybe you should get ahold of some of the stuff I'm using to strip the wallpaper adhesive off of my bathroom walls. Works great once you regain consciousness. lol

ROLF !!

I did a little checking on the Rustoleum thing- The $50 roller paint job as detailed on another forum was done with the Rustoleum product called Tremclad sold in Canada the US product isn't the standard Rustoleum as sold in WalMart or the like but rather it's" Industrial Rustoleum", just a little tidbit of info

yup, Tremclad.
they're also arguing in Brobdignag-ian fashion about which is better - the Tremclad, or a similar product called 'Brightside' - which i've never heard of - a marine product. i'm gonna go with the tremclad because the color pallette includes a dark red.
supposedly the odorless mineral spirits gave someone there some problems. my local hardware store doesn't have pure mineral spirits, but i wanna deviate from the instructions as little as possible so i'll drive further for the 'GoodStuff'

I need one of you folks to try the HAMMERITE brand of paint. It comes in metallics, is a bit more expensive but has a really great finish. I think it is a better quality than Rustoleum. Do it, do it, do it!!!!!

Roger or someone could help here, but my personal experience is:

when i was younger I learned a lil bout painting cars, we started on a Buick GN TType, Painted it artic white w/fine black metallic flake mixed in it, can't remember the parts to mix it by, but anyways.. we topped it off with 2 layers of clear then a layer of clear mixed w/fine "sapphire/royal" blue metallic flake.. then 2 mor clears.. the car turned out extremely beautiful.. at the time anyways.. from what i remember, it usually best to mix metallic in with the 2 layer of clear then add at least one regular clear on top of that.. the mixing withthe base is ok but it depends on the colors..

Its been 8+ years though.. i could be off a bit...

quote Originally posted by TorqueWench: "Wonder if you could mix metal flake in to that paint?" i wondered the exact same thing, and on the Moparts.org thread the thought is to mix it into a clear coat rather than the color. i'm going to try it both ways on my practice panel this winter, in the comfort of my living room. i'm going for an approximation of the medium red metallic original fiero color, to cover the crappy bright red repaint job on my '85. if it comes out as good as BLK86FSTBAKGT's, it's definitely worth experimenting with. i found flake here http://www.paintwithpearl.com/ if anyone with more painting experience has a better source, i'd be grateful for a pointer. good job, BLK, and Earl, i'm definitely gonna give this a try now how does the urethane behave? any special prep needed?

flake stays in suspension even if the pain levels, right? viscosity, surface tension, and all that jazz?
half of me wants to think if the flake is evenly dispersed, than it would retain an even look even after wet sanding.
but then the other half of me reminds the first half of me that me knows next to nothing about painting cars, whatever the method...brush, gun, roller, or sneezed modern abstract pointilism.
the supposed other virtue of the roller/tremclad method is obviating the need for clearcoat. which would throw my adding flake to a clear idea out the window. the only way i'm gonna settle my curiosity, is to do it. i've got a rocker panel coming, that i could start on,
but i can't be sure the paint will play nice with the olefin. so i'm gonna wait til i have a door skin or fender.

i'll search for more info on Hammerite...

"...and the best part is, using Rustoleum means it won't ever rust!"

Nice job so far - those parts look like they turned out great. And, what really impresses me is, no overspray visible on the dining table .

[This message has been edited by StuGood (edited 11-09-2006).]