Ordered one of the Monogram 85 Fiero GTs from Fierostore on Friday and want to see pics of completed ones. Also does anyone have any tips for building this model? I haven't built a model car in ages and want to avoid most, if any problems with it.
It only works on styrene plastic models and goes on with a brush. You basically hold the two parts together and put a brush-drop at one spot on the seam. The cement will run along the seam then you hold the part for about 1 second and it's nearly dry.
Microscale makes a similar product called Micro-Weld that works the same way. The joints are a lot stronger and less messy than using the typical thick plastic cement.
The model has no "problems" and goes tegether very well.
Ordered one of the Monogram 85 Fiero GTs from Fierostore on Friday and want to see pics of completed ones. Also does anyone have any tips for building this model? I haven't built a model car in ages and want to avoid most, if any problems with it.
I don't have any pics of my old models but I did a ton of Trans Am, Firebirds, GTOs back in the mid to late 80's. Monogram I always thought put out the best most detailed kits. MPC/Ertyl kinda blew but they had better variety. All I have now is a '78 T/A streetrod and '87 Grand National. And a Space Battleship Yamato which I thought came out rather well.
I used to have the easiest time when I painted the parts while they were still on the plastic tree. That way you don't get paint all over yourself and smudge what's on the pieces. I usually go with Testor's paints and cement.
------------------ =-Eric the Dread
1988 Fiero GT 2.8L V6 2001 Grand Prix GTP SC3.8L V6
IP: Logged
04:48 PM
Bradley Jay Member
Posts: 794 From: Redlands, CA Registered: Jun 2008
It only works on styrene plastic models and goes on with a brush.
I wonder if that's the same as the Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement - it comes in a glass jar (NOT the stuff in the orange tube). Its basically just Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone and is ideal for styrene models. Being MEK, its probably best used in a WELL ventilated area.
I've got a Fiero GT fastback model sitting here for the last several years; eventually I'll re-create my actual car in 1/25 scale. Just have to do a sunroof-delete on it!
------------------
IP: Logged
06:57 PM
reverend Member
Posts: 131 From: Xenia Ohio USA Registered: Aug 2008
If you have specific questions regarding building model cars, please PM or e-mail me. I have been building plastic since the mid 50's. I have also written tips and tricks sections for model car magazines. I currently have 7 plastic 1/24-25 scale Fiero kits in progress and just painted a 1/18 scale diecast of my notchy. The 1/18 diecast will be mounted in the rear window of my notchy for car shows.
This is an old build of a GT40 kit.
[This message has been edited by reverend (edited 11-10-2008).]
IP: Logged
08:07 PM
Nov 11th, 2008
Oreif Member
Posts: 16460 From: Schaumburg, IL Registered: Jan 2000
I wonder if that's the same as the Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement - it comes in a glass jar (NOT the stuff in the orange tube). Its basically just Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone and is ideal for styrene models. Being MEK, its probably best used in a WELL ventilated area.
No, It is not.
MEK also known as Butanone is one of the ingredients in Testors liquid plastic cement. (as well as the orange tube stuff) The Tenax and Microscale's Micro-weld is methylene chloride also know as Dichloromethane (DCM or Di-Clor)
The Testors liquid cement is 35% Methyl Ethyl Keytone, 35% Ethyl Acetate, and 30% Propylene Glychol. Which is why it can fog up the clear parts used on cars and aircraft models. (The orange tube cement reduces Propylene Glychol to 25% and adds in 5% of Allyl Isotheocynate to make it more of a gel consistancy)
Tenax and Micro-Weld are 99% Methylene Chloride (which actually use to be called "Freon 30")
If you take a paint brush and dip it in the Testors and let it sit out, It will dry hard overnight.
With the Tenax/Micro-weld the brush hairs will frost up as the DCM evaporates. Leaving the brush free to use again and again. I use regular paint brushes to apply the glue. I have various sizes of brushes based on the size of the parts I'm joining together.
As with any glue's or chemicals, Always use them in well ventalated area's and use normal cautions. (Don't drink them or get them in your eyes.)
[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 11-11-2008).]
IP: Logged
07:52 AM
css9450 Member
Posts: 5543 From: Glen Ellyn, Illinois, USA Registered: Nov 2002
As with any glue's or chemicals, Always use them in well ventalated area's and use normal cautions. (Don't drink them or get them in your eyes.)
LOL Yeah, a friend of mine knocked over a whole bottle of the Testor's liquid; their entire apartment was virtually uninhabitable for awhile. Never mind the smell, the vapors were probably pretty noxious.
I found the one I started and screwed up 2 years ago, so now that I have spare parts coming for that one, I have two to build. I think the older one will be built to look like the red car on the box with the scoops and Indy snorkel, and build/paint the second one to appear as close as possible to my Formula.
Does anyone know of a model kit that had wheels similar to the spoke wheels the Fastbacks and the Formulas had that will fit on the 85 GT model?
IP: Logged
09:24 PM
PFF
System Bot
reverend Member
Posts: 131 From: Xenia Ohio USA Registered: Aug 2008
Most of the hobby shops I know of have seperate wheels and tires available. I have built many custom models since I was a teenager. I have an SVT lightning with a custom trailer built to haul a Shelby GT-350 and other related race equipment ie. mounted tires, toolboxes, and welding and compressor stuff. I won two awards with that one. Most hobby shops will have any extra items you will need to build one off custom models.
IP: Logged
12:20 AM
hyperv6 Member
Posts: 6138 From: Clinton, OH, USA Registered: Mar 2003
