Hey guys...

I've been looking at some flatbed dovetail car trailers lately... The one that I want is offered with either a wood deck, or a steel deck. What are the pros/cons of each?

Thanks!

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Nic

Email me at my PFF username @hotmail.com

What I've found is that wooden deck trailers tend to be a little lighter and they are better for transporting items other then a car. (Like if you would like to use it as a utility trailer.) They tend to be less slick when wet. I ended up getting a steel deck trailer and coating the surface in non-skid. Didn't want to worry about replacing the deck years down the road...

Rob D.

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The Dirty Rat
Chopped, dropped and just plain NASTY! Choptop Targa #1
383 Stroker MPFI with N2O
1" Drop
3" Chop
11" Brakes
19" Motegi Roja's wrapped in BFGoodrich Gforce T/A KDW-2 rubber
RCC Coilover Suspension
Updated Jan 21 '04 www.dirtyratracing.org

[This message has been edited by chester (edited 10-14-2004).]

The benefits of wood, it's cheaper, may be a bit lighter than steel. Drawbacks is that the wood will rot

Benefits of steel is that it's stronger, looks better, but it will rust if the paint gets stratched; and the cost and the weight issue.

Having said all that I have an all steel trailer. If you can afford it aluminum is the way to go.

Thanks for the replies... Plusses to both of you (you both already had a + from me, oh well, I tried).

I had thought about aluminum, and H&H makes a very cool stainless tilt-bed, with power retractable ramps, but the $8500 it costs, would easily buy a new entry level 24' enclosed with some nice accessories.

If anyone else has any input, please share...

Nic

[This message has been edited by musicman_L7 (edited 10-14-2004).]

Now if you have the proper tow vehicle enclosed is definitely the way to go.

Actually I think my next trailer will be a converted school bus...I'm going to add a ramp in the back and drive the Fiero right up inside.

I, too, have a steel bed trailer. It has the diamond plate surface, and isn't too bad at all when wet. It won't rot, and a little wire brush on a drill and some primer/paint is all it takes to do a little touch up. It's supposed to last for years, and as mentioned, won't rot. Plus, you can weld stuff on all over and it's going to be there forever.

Mark

Nic,

I have both and several kinds of both decks on my trailers. When I bought my car trailer I specified a wooden deck. Metal decks are nice but they make the trailer very noisy when towing as every stone and piece of gravel "ring" when they hit it. They also are tremendously noisy when you drop things on them (chains, straps with ratchets, etc.) and I don't care for that. Another thing to consider is that when we go to autocrosses and such, we often sit around on the trailer. Ever sat and a piece of metal in the KS summer sun when it's 105? Wood wins that test hands down. In addition, the metal decks WILL scratch fairly quickly and then you have surface rust on them that you either leave or are constantly repairing. Metal decks are normally heavier than wood, but not by a lot. If the deck is damaged, metal repair is a generally more difficult than it is to replace a couple of pieces of wood. The real killer, for me, is that on an open trailer metal decks are very slick when they get wet and morning dew is the worst of all. The down side of wood is that it isn't as permanent as metal and can rot and be damaged if not cared for. I paint my wooden decks with a good, oil based, exterior paint to protect them. On my car trailer that we carry the Finale on, we simply painted it. On one of my implement trailers we painted it and used some of the grit that gives it a non-slip surface. I like the surface, but it does come off over time and is the first thing to weather.

It's really a personal choice, but I much prefer a wooden deck over a steel one for the way I trailer in most cases.

John Stricker

quote Originally posted by musicman_L7: Thanks for the replies... Plusses to both of you (you both already had a + from me, oh well, I tried). I had thought about aluminum, and H&H makes a very cool stainless tilt-bed, with power retractable ramps, but the $8500 it costs, would easily buy a new entry level 24' enclosed with some nice accessories. If anyone else has any input, please share... Nic

I have a 16-foot wood deck. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
First reason is I got it brand new for $1,200.00 out the door. Electric brakes and all.
Second is with the wood deck you can do so much more. I was moving a safe for a buddy of mine once. After we got it strapped down we took 4x4’s and nailed them down around the safe to keep it from shifting.
Third, the noise is a huge factor. When I got my first Indy I went to Georgia to get it with an aluminum trailer. For 16 hours down and 18 hours back all you could hear was that dam trailer rattling!!! I was ready to take it to the scrap yard after that. When I got my second Indy I went to Muncie Indiana for it. I took the wood trailer (see pic) so much nicer!!! Your call, the aluminum trailer may look a little nicer but when you going down the road hopefully people are looking at your car and not the trailer.

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85 SE (My first love)
84 Indy 4 Speed
84 Indy Auto 43,000 miles

My vote is for a wood bed trailer you can nail to the bed if you would like. The one I use is over 10 years old and no rot yet. Just don't let leaves collect in the bed to hold moisture. I have used all 3 and like the wood type they still have a steel frame to weld to if you would like. My next trailer will be custom made to move the axels forward just a little to remove some of the weight on the tow vehicle.

Earl

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1986 FieroGT 2.8

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Now if you have the proper tow vehicle enclosed is definitely the way to go. Actually I think my next trailer will be a converted school bus...I'm going to add a ramp in the back and drive the Fiero right up inside.

Hmmm....now THAT's a good idea!

I don't have a trailer (yet), but my sister does and she has a wooden deck. We've moved many cars and it is nice to be able to nail down some 2x4's to keep the car from walking side to side a little. And it is replaceable for little extra cash. I did use an aluminum trailer to haul my wife's Fiero back from Chicagoe and I must say it was nice with built in tie-downs and tilt bed.

A couple of ideas I have and I don't know how feasible they are but they're just something to think over. With a wooden trailer is it possible to use synthetic decking that won't rot? And with a steel trailer you could always have a Rhino Lining (truck bedliner) sprayed on to prevent rust and scratching while also decreasing the noise level a little. It would also make it easier to sit on in the sun. I had this in my pickup truck and it was definitely non-slip, soft and rubbery. I would use it again in a heartbeat!!

Just a couple of things to consider,

Good luck,

Dan

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www.cfogi.org

[This message has been edited by DanFiero (edited 10-15-2004).]

I agree with all the cons to steel bed except the noise. I have towed mine across the country three times and noise was never an issue. I never heard any rattling or stones hitting it or anything of the sort. I'm not sure where that comment is coming from.

It all depends on how you intend to use it...I use mine for hauling the fiero, period. I don't care to sit on it, move furniture, or care how slippery it is in the morning. But that's just me.

Aluminum is the best way to go...its lite, wont rust or rot. Several people I know have wood decked ones that rotted away during winter storage. If you get a new one that is wood, it might be OK if you glassed over it to seal it in or at minimum, put a good grade of sealer or urathane clear over it. Wont work if its used though. If I had to get an open trailer, id get a steel framed one with diamond plate aluminum at least in the tire track area, under cars can even be open. Seen some with extruded metal in the middle non critical area.

The only time I hear noise off of my steel trailer when it's empty is when I don't strap down the ramps properly, or when it's enpty and I hit a nice bump with it. Otherwise, you don't know it's there. When it's loaded with a vehicle, I have to look in the mirror to see the front bumper to know that there is a trailer behind me.....and that's with the windows open. She's quiet. If you have a noisy trailer, find the loose stuff and strap it down.

Mark

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I am also looking to buy a trailer very soon. Where is a good place to buy one from (I'm in Akron Ohio). Secondly, what manufacturers do you guys recommend?

Jake

Jake,

Don't worry about hijacking the thread... Those are good questions!

H&H trailers are manufactured somewhat close to me, (Clarinda, IA), so I see a lot of those in my area. Pace American makes very nice enclosed trailers, and Haulmark, makes a nice entry level one (I've never seen their higher models).

Nic

quote Originally posted by Firefox: If you have a noisy trailer, find the loose stuff and strap it down. Mark

I agree, I drove my trailer back empty from Chicago to Houston and I had to keep looking in the mirror to remind myself it was there. I have the steel diamond plate under the tires and it's open in the middle.

quote Originally posted by Jake85SE: Not trying to hijack this thread, but I am also looking to buy a trailer very soon. Where is a good place to buy one from (I'm in Akron Ohio). Secondly, what manufacturers do you guys recommend? Jake

I personally prefer wooden, but it's a decision the guy or girl using it has to make. I've owned and towed all of them, when I built mine 32 foot goose neck, I seriously considered all options, but decided on a wood floor, it suited my application and was better for my wallet.

Where to buy, I always prefer to go to farm and implement places, but don't forget the farm auction, there are almost always good deals on utility trailers. If you're determined to get a car hauler, then either find a used one or suck it up and go to a dealer and prepare to spend the bucks. It all comes down to your application/needs and how much you're willing to spend.

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Ron
aka: Blackrams

Try looking for ads. Lots of people get rid of them cheap when they dont need them anymore. Ive seen wood decked car trailers for as little as $200. I bought another dolly this summer that had been used once behind a motor home and cost $1300. Nubs arent even worn off tires and I paid $500. I prefer towing cars with a dolly myself, but thats just me. May even be some on EBay.

I prefer the metal deck trailer myself. I had an 18' diamond plate deck dove tail and it was great. I sold it for a 20' enclosed when I build the IMSA for security. Naturally if you go enclosed, I would. One thing about the enclosed that don't like is the wind resistance. Gas mileage is the pits. IF you do get an open trailer make or buy a wind deflector for the front of the car. It makes a world of difference. I once hauled a car through the rain and only the rear fascia had water spots on it afterwards. The entire front 7/8 ths of the car stayed dry. Of course the truck was always moving in the rain. If I had stopped the car would have been wet. I also highly recommend a load leveler and anti-sway fricton bar. It greatly help stabilize the trailer.

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Paul

645hp Tube Chassis IMSA Race Car | 96 T/A WS6 - 5100 miles | 87 GT Old Daily Driver - 229,xxx , 800rms sound system, autox suspension (FOR SALE) | Blue 87 GT New Daily Driver - 116,xxx, 3.1 motor, 1 1/4" rear swaybar

quote Originally posted by Jake85SE: Not trying to hijack this thread, but I am also looking to buy a trailer very soon. Where is a good place to buy one from (I'm in Akron Ohio). Secondly, what manufacturers do you guys recommend? Jake

Majestic Trailer. They are in Akron That's where i got mine

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85 SE (My first love)
84 Indy 4 Speed
84 Indy Auto 43,000 miles

Thanks ohioindy, I just got off the phone with a guy who told me the same place. He said that they have been pretty good to deal with and there prices arent too bad either.

Jake

What are the different weights for the steel with wood, steel with steel bed, and the alum. one.

let's say a basic 16 foot one.

Thanks
Dick

[This message has been edited by DandRauto (edited 10-16-2004).]

My 16' with 2 foot dove tail Steel with steel bed = 1500 pounds.

This was my 1st trailer, 16 foot, w/ steel deck, I did not like, it hardly fit in the garage, and the painted on pin stripe was very sloppy, looked like a drunken sailor painted it, so reordered another one.

2nd one was ordered with steel runners, it came with wood instead. I actually liked the wood better after I got it.
The trailer bed was 14' x 7' and has dove tail rear, over all length, hitch to tail is 17' 9". Has 15" tires. Removable driver side fender. It weighed 1400 lbs


The dove tail is a must, as it brings the ramps lower, less of an angle. The open middle has it's advantanges, it's easy to craw under the trailer to hook up the tie downs. Plus, if you ever need to work on the fuel filter or change the oil, no need to jack the car up !. You can reach those under the trailer.

The traler had brakes, and a "break away battery". (most states require them) In case of the trailer leaving the tow vehicle, it puts the on brakes so when you go back, you can hopfully find the trailer where you last saw it ! (that's how they told me)

I sold that trailer to a forum member, ordered an enclosed trailer.

Good luck with your trailer choice.

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 10-24-2004).]

CoolBlue87GT,
You've made some great choices, you've had some very nice trailers. My compliments. Did you ever consider the hydraulically tilted car hauler? They are used without the dove tail and tilt to allow for easy loading and unloading. They are very nice trailers to work with. The only issue I have with Car Haulers that are open in the middle, is that without modification, that is all they are good for. If that's all you ever going to do with the traler, then they are great, but if a more utility role is planned, a car hauler is pretty limited. Again, depends on the owners intentions when making the purchase.

I really like the enclosed trailer you have. You're right though, they do catch a lot of wind. The only way I've seen them get any kind of improved efficiency is to install one of those wind deflectors that give it a rounded nose. Don't know how much they cost, but they might be worth it in the long run.

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Ron
aka: Blackrams

[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 10-16-2004).]

Nice trailers, CoolBlue! The enclosed trailer doubles as a ballroom. On the trailer shown with the open center, you can put 3/4"-1" plywood inserts in to give you more utility (note the steel supports across the open center). You can also order brackets welded to the sides for wooden stakes (as in stake-bed trucks).
(Edit---just noticed he already has those, lol.)
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"He who does not oppose evil, commands that it be done!" ----Leonardo da Vinci

[This message has been edited by Vonov (edited 10-16-2004).]

quote Originally posted by blackrams: CoolBlue87GT, ...... I really like the enclosed trailer you have. You're right though, they do catch a lot of wind. The only way I've seen them get any kind of improved efficiency is to install one of those wind deflectors that give it a rounded nose. Don't know how much they cost, but they might be worth it in the long run.

Actually, the "improved efficiency / wind deflectors" is not an issue with this trailer. I had them custom build it, it's only 81 inches tall. The height is the same as the Suburban. I'll inclose a photo showing the two together.

I chose that hight in order to get the trailer inside the garage. It clears the door by 1/2 inch !

You asked, "Did you ever consider the hydraulically tilted car hauler?" No, I've seen them in photos. The only thing I'd have against that type would be the fact it would be harder to drive the car up a steeper incline, especialy in the rain. When my ramps are wet, the wheels spin, making loading the car really scary.

While at the 20th show, when I tried to load my car, I had a big problem, the wheels spun on the ramps, and the car moved sideways, and almost fell off the ramps. I was looking around for someone to help me, but everyone was still asleep at 6 AM. I was able to jocky the car back & forth, and able to back the car off, and got a little "running start" to load it.

I've thought about adding a power winch to load the car, so far it's still in the plans for the future. The olny draw back would be with unloading. I'd have to find an incline to park on, in order to roll to car out.

Anyway, I hope some of this has been usefull. I'd ask the dealer if you can test drive the trailer before buying. Remember balancing the load is very important. If the rear is to heavy, the trailer will fishtail all over the place. Very un-nearving.

Also look into installing an electrionc brake controller for the trailer brakes. On my 1st towing trip w/ a U-haul auto hauler, driving my old Cherokee, I almost had a heart attack when an idot pulled out infront of me, I had to slam on the brakes in a panic stop. It takes 2 - 3 times longer to stop while hauling such a load. (the Cherokee only hauled the open type trailer, it would never hauled this one)

Another pointer I learned, while hauling, Driving Speed, very important. While on the way to my first long hauling trip, I found myself driving way to fast for the load. I was up to 80 MPH at times. Not safe. I now drive at a slower pace, and get there, feeling much more safe & relaxed.

Good luck.

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 10-16-2004).]

Thanks for all the great input everyone!

I'm currently considering any and all options, and am now also looking at purchasing a 8.5x24 enclosed Haulmark trailer factory direct. But... I don't have enough cash to do that, so I'm looking into financing (I really don't want another payment). But, for the money (and my intended use), enclosed would be a lot smarter.

I don't do many long trips for car shows right now, because: A) I don't have time. B) I hate having to clean the car once we get there, and haul all of my cleaning stuff, and her clothes in that tiny trunk! So, my thinking is that I could do a few more long trips, (although a trailer won't solve my time problem), because I could clean it as I have time, winch it into the trailer, cover it, unload it, and show it. Even for shows closer to home, but more than 50 miles away (which most are), I could save myself the trouble of picking grasshopper legs out of the turnsignal buckets.

I also plan to redo the suspension in the car this winter, but I'm about 65 miles from the nearest alignment shop that can accomodate a lowered car. The nearest ones can't handle a Fiero at stock height, so once it's dropped, it'll have to be trailered to the shop (most likely while there's still snow on the ground), thus another reason to buy enclosed. (See, I'm doing a great job of talking myself into this, aren't I?)

Here's a couple pics of the one that's currently at the top of the list:

A rear shot:

I've already looked into a power winch (only $179 + wiring, and my time to install, for any of the trailers I choose), checkerboard floor, aluminum runners under the tires inside, cabinetry (gotta keep the cleaning supplies organized), vinyl walls/ceiling, and of course, some LED clearance/tail lights so I don't have to replace bulbs ever again.

Let me know what you guys think...

Current price for the one above: $5250.00 It seems like a good deal...

Nic

for the price that's not bad. do you get all that stuff you mention for $5250.

i'm looking at a used that about 7 years old that has a lot of the stuff
you mention minus the winch for $4800. i'm hoping the guy will come
down.

tom.s

Tom,

No it doesn't come with many options for $5250. The options they include are:

Chrome corners and rear header.
24" aluminum stone guard in front.
Two interior 12v lights.
14" x 14" roof vent.
One 12v quartz loading light (shines on the ramp from above).
Four D-Ring tie downs mounted in the floor.

The winch I'm looking at, is a Warn 1700, available at Northern Tool Co. www.northerntool.com . The lights are also available there. The vinyl for the walls and ceiling, checkerboard linoleum, as well as the aluminum diamondplate runners, are all available locally. The cabinetry I want added in the very front (just along the front wall), is available from my landlord, who owns a construction company (he's able to do small favors for me, for only the cost of materials). Total cost to add all of this looks to be around $750 plus my time to install all of it.

Nic

One other thing I'd recommend...for everyone. Find a way to permanently mark the VIN on your trailer, both in a way that is very public, and hidden somewhere on the trailer where people don't normally look, such as on the inboard side of one of the frame rails, or behind one of the wheels, on the frame. We just recovered at least a dozen trailers from ONE guy, who was having them stolen to order and reselling them; trailer theft is becoming epidemic, and most manufacturers are only putting stickers or riveted plates on them, which are easily removed. If it gets stolen, make sure you include the location where (more than one is smart) you marked it on the police report, and keep the number in a safe place. It'll make returning it to you, if it's recovered, much easier. (Most of the ones we got, we'll never find the owners of...)
Tony

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"He who does not oppose evil, commands that it be done!" ----Leonardo da Vinci

quote Originally posted by CoolBlue87GT: I sold that trailer to a forum member, ordered an enclosed trailer.

Dave, this is an swesome trailer. What is the width from side to side? Can you open the doors enough to get out or do you have to climb out through the sunroof?

quote Originally posted by musicman_L7: Tom, No it doesn't come with many options for $5250. Nic

Nic,

Haulmark is a good trailer. Is a bit higher priced than othes, but you have to compare to other trailers with the same construction. Check the frame & axles ratings. Some are built cheaper & sell for more. Know what your buying. Remember, if one dealer has one, another may have the same unit cheaper. Pays to shop.

Just noticed your looking at a 24' trailer ? Why so long ? You will have 7 to 8 feet extra space inside than mine. Do you need that much space ? Mine is 16' by 8.5

Mine was custom built by A-OK trailer in Florida. I paid around 3650 (w/out tax / tags)

The custom size was done at no extra cost. I shopped for about a couple of months before choosing A-OK. I finished the inside.

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 10-16-2004).]

quote Originally posted by CoolBlue87GT: Nic, Haulmark is a good trailer. Is a bit higher priced than othes, but you have to compare to other trailers with the same construction. Check the frame & axles ratings. Some are built cheaper & sell for more. Know what your buying. Remember, if one dealer has one, another may have the same unit cheaper. Pays to shop. Just noticed your looking at a 24' trailer ? Why so long ? You will have 7 to 8 feet extra space inside than mine. Do you need that much space ? Mine is 16' by 8.5 Mine was custom built by A-OK trailer in Florida. I paid around 3650 (w/out tax / tags) The custom size was done at no extra cost. I shopped for about a couple of months before choosing A-OK. I finished the inside.

I'm looking at a 24' for a variety of reasons...

The first being that, the smallest I would want, would be a 20' model. It's only $300 cheaper, so that would buy a winch, and maybe some linoleum, and that's about it. $300 for four extra feet, is worth it to me.

Second, I may not always be hauling a Fiero around. My fiancee keeps saying that we're going to restore a C-3 Corvette, or a Hemi 'Cuda, or something like that next. So, some extra room would be nice. Also, if I ever get into racing, instead of showing, extra room will be a necessity.

Third, I think that in 5 or 10 years, a 24' trailer may have a better resale chance, if not value, due to the same reasons I mentioned above... It would be more universal.

Lastly... I'm really bad about underestimating what's going to satisfy me. I tend to buy something in the middle of the road (product wise), and then find out that something on it, isn't quite going to work for me. So, I sell or trade it, lose a little money, and get just enough to get me by for the next bump in the road... Until, I need to trade again; and so on. As I've gotten older, I've become more impatient, and less willing to do things twice. I do things once, and I do them well enough and big enough, that I hope I'll never have to do it again. Same with the trailer... I'm a stickler for maintenance, and upgrades; I don't expect that I'll wear it out. So, I'm hoping that if I buy one big enough, and nice enough, I won't be having to buy another one, until I simply want to; not because I need to.

I appreciate your question... I'm sure it provided some insight of how my mind works, to people that sometimes don't understand my decisions (Mike, if you're reading this).

Anyway... Keep the info coming guys! I'm soaking it up, like a sponge.

Nic

Sounds good Nic, I like the Haulmark's.

I've learned alot from a forum I joined called, http://www.trailerlife.com

They have many tech pages & other information that you will find interesting. I'm using the same username & have made many friends. My Honda generator & dual cam anti sway system purchaces were a direct result of the help these guys gave me.

I usually hang out in the "Tow Vehicles" or the "Towing" sections. The forum has a good search tool also.

If you join, come look me up.

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 10-17-2004).]

Ok... I broke down and ordered one...

2005 Haulmark Thrifty Hauler enclosed 24' trailer, in Charcoal Grey to match my pickup.

The dealer didn't have a build date for it yet, but I hope to pick it up at the factory in Duncan, Oklahoma before Thanksgiving.

Thanks for the help guys!

Nic

[This message has been edited by musicman_L7 (edited 10-23-2004).]

quote Originally posted by musicman_L7: Ok... I broke down and ordered one... 2005 Haulmark Thrifty Hauler 24', in Charcoal Grey to match my pickup. The dealer didn't have a build date for it yet, but I hope to pick it up at the factory in Duncan, Oklahoma before Thanksgiving. Thanks for the help guys! Nic

Alright !!! Glad we could help. "Charcoal Grey to match my pickup. " That's what I did, I like the matching paint.

I'd ask if they would put down 4 D-ring hooks on the floor. See if they'll throw in a few ratchet style straps to hold the car down. Oh yes, think about vents, I had two side vents installed (due to height restrictions) . You will want a way to vent, as it will get hot inside as your tooling down the road.

that's awesome....

your going have post some pics of it.

ah, duncan okla. not too far from where i grew up.

tom.s