| | | quote | | Originally posted by Will: My point is that I can run a castle nut all the way down with my fingers in about 3 seconds (well, maybe 4). When I was reassembling my front end, not counting the time breaking the jaw off my 8 mm wrench cost me, just running the nut down to the point where it started to get tight took several minutes. At 1/12 turn each time you put the wrench on it, it's slow and tedious when there's absolutley no dam reason for it to be. It just pisses me off that people depart from the time tested very functional normal way of doing things and cause me grief and inconvnience just so they can save $0.07 per ball joint by using a nylon nut.   I've never needed a (quite expensive) ratcheting box end to do this job before. Why the heck do I need to go buy one now?
Like I said, I'd like to strangle the guy who came up with that idea. I've never had a problem getting a castle nut off, even an old one. They're typically covered in grease from the ball joints anyway, so rust is seldom an issue. [This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-18-2003).] |
|
Well - the new parts for mine (Moog Suspension) are in transit right now and I'll be installing them next weekend. I'll let you know how easy it was to break it down (this one doesn't look pretty) and what kind of nuts the Moog joints come with. If it turns out to be nylon nuts, then I'll try what's worked for me before - rub a candle on the stud to transfer some wax to the threads and then screw it down. A little candle wax makes those nylon fasteners turn a bunch easier.
In any event, I'm thankful just to be able to purchase new parts for this 18 year old car. A lot of this stuff is "do the best you can with what you've got to work with".
Besides, the original ball joints brought my Fiero this far - the new set should be the last set it ever needs...
