I have a bad exhaust leak and found 2 bolts loose 1 missing and I have a stud with no nut---thats 1 side only--still have to get to the other side--no luck with Advance or NAPA for the studs or bolts---so it will be FieroStore I was leaning towards the studs, but is there any advantage to using the studs versus bolts?

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Pat Jones

Yes, Studs give you two ways to get the manifold off. It either lets the nut come off, or comes out of the block. Plus it makes it easier to get gaskets aligned. Bolts, if they rust or sieze in the block your stuck.

i ordered them off ebay. they came and worked great. i think they were from fierojohn.

quote so it will be FieroStore I was leaning towards the studs

studs are nice like mike said, as long as you have the extra room to slide the manifolds on and off over them. I would go with them too. I would check a shop that sells fasteners in your area before you order from them. I get everything I need from Fastenal.
troy

The GM Part No. for the stud is: 21006954
The studs are 50 mm. long with M8-1.25 threads. The threads at the nut end are 20 mm. long, and the threads at the head end are 17 mm. long. The nut ends are formed and can be turned with a Torx tool. Correct size tool for installing and removing Exhaust Studs is an E7 torx socket. This stud data will let you go to places like Fastenal and get what you need.

You can get them at True Value, or any decent hardware store.

I've got studs too, from Rodney, many moons ago.

I cheated on my 87 though, used a bolt up under the AC bracket, lots of anti-sieze on that one.

I also cheated on the E7 torx socket, used a 5.5 MM socket since that's all I had at the moment, but that's an excellent contribution to the discussion, a plus (+) for that one!

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 01-13-2013).]

I cheated and went to e-bay and got the Fierojon setup--they look just like what you said with the Torx fastener on the end--Thanks for all the input--now I get to try to remove the manifolds!

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Pat Jones

quote Originally posted by 88FieroGT TTops: I cheated and went to e-bay and got the Fierojon setup--they look just like what you said with the Torx fastener on the end--Thanks for all the input--now I get to try to remove the manifolds!

Here you go, an exhaust manifold removal thread with pictures, tips, hints and a few scraped up knuckles.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000016.html

I have always made my own. Bolts, cut and the ends rounded and re-threaded.

Jetman great write up!--hopefully will save time---I have already started the pb blaster---I also have several pre loose bolts on the exhuast already--some missing too. I ordered the nut bolt from fierojon--about the porting of your manifold--I just have a regular dremel--do you need the flex bit to get in there and did you reweld the pipe?

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Pat Jones

I did have one set of manifolds rewelded, there were some minor cracks, made sure the weld shop clamped them down to avoid warping, they came out just fine.

I used a 9903 Dremel carbon tungsten cutter, it did take a while, slow process, used lots of PB blaster as my cutting oil. Take it from me, wear old clothes, work outside or in a garage, wear eye protection and gloves, those nasty stainless slivers can get everywhere.

Good luck on the manifold project, you'll be in the club afterwards, we'll send you a members jacket.

EDIT,,,,, Sorry, can't answer the flex tip question, been quite a while but I thought I hooked up the bit directly to the dremmel.

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 01-15-2013).]

I did the same thing to port my manifold, using the tungsten carbide cutting bit and a dremel. You aren't kidding about those slivers - they are NASTY! I had no idea when I started, and I paid for it. I didn't need to use a flexible attachment.

I didn't grind my weld out so I didn't have to reweld mine.