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Car keeps shutting off... by 85FieroFL
Started on: 07-25-2012 12:11 PM
Replies: 48
Last post by: Gall757 on 08-01-2012 04:54 PM
phonedawgz
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Report this Post07-27-2012 06:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 85FieroFL:

Where do i spray the starting fluid? And how would i know which is the problem?


This will take two people. One in the car and one at the engine. You have to take the air intake off so you can squirt it into the throttle body directly. Use short squirts after it is started when it starts to die. The person inside the car needs to either have the throttle at idle or close to it.

Have a fire extinguisher handy. Anytime you have the air intake of your engine open there is a slight chance of a backfire.

If you can keep the engine running on starting fluid, your problem is with the fuel delivery system (ECM, signal to the ECM, fuel pump, injectors ect) If even with starting fluid you can't keep the engine running, then the ignition components would be the prime suspect.



Do not rev the piss out of it like these idiots do. It is much more likely to backfire if you do.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post07-27-2012 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post

phonedawgz

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Member since Dec 2009
It is wrong.

Either the ECM via it's fuel pump relay, OR the oil pressure switch can supply power to the fuel pump.

If either is on, the fuel pump gets power. If both are on the fuel pump gets power.

The ECM activates the fuel pump relay for two seconds when the key is switched on. It also keeps the fuel pump relay activated anytime it sees ignition pulses, and for two seconds after the last pulse. Anytime the fuel pump relay is activated, the fuel pump should be getting power.

The oil pressure switch sends power to the fuel pump any time there is oil pressure. So on a cold engine, that is from when you start cranking it to up o 15 seconds after you turn the key off. On a warm engine the oil pressure will drop much quicker.

Either of these things can/will supply power to your fuel pump.



 
quote
Originally posted by lurtz:

Take this for what it is worth because I am not a mechanic, but you say it will start and run for ten seconds then die. Could this be the oil pressure switch? Once the ECM recognizes the car has started the fuel pump is switched through the oil pressure switch. If the switch is faulty and not sending a good signal this could shut the fuel pump off and kill the engine. Again I am not a mechanic so please anyone if I am way out in left field please speak up.



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85FieroFL
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Report this Post07-30-2012 11:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 85FieroFLSend a Private Message to 85FieroFLDirect Link to This Post
Update time:

Ok so this morning i tried keeping it on with starting fluid, and nothing. Kept shutting off. What does that mean? What now?
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Stickerguy
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Report this Post07-30-2012 04:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for StickerguySend a Private Message to StickerguyDirect Link to This Post
I have read all through this thread, and it looks more like the ICM. You said it was a new distributor, but it can still be bad. I would remove the ICM and take it and have it tested. Most chain auto parts stores have equipment to test them and will do it for free.


------------------
'86 SE V6
Silver/ Gray
4-Speed

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lurtz
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Report this Post07-31-2012 08:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lurtzSend a Private Message to lurtzDirect Link to This Post
If you do have your icm tested, be sure they test it a few times in a row. Sometimes I have found the icm will pass the test a couple of times then suddenly not pass. This can save you some headaches.
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85FieroFL
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Report this Post07-31-2012 09:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 85FieroFLSend a Private Message to 85FieroFLDirect Link to This Post
So i called my local Autozone and my local Advance auto parts and they both do not test ICM's. So what now? Do i just buy a new ICM?
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post07-31-2012 11:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Both Advance and Autozone test them here for free...I think you just have lazy salesclerks. You do have to remove it and take it in. I also second the repeat several times. Usually it has to be hot before it fails. Ive had lots that tested fine but quit in the car when it got hot. Now I drive the car to the store and remove it there so its still hot. I assume that by r epeating the test several times, it gets hot enough.
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85FieroFL
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Report this Post08-01-2012 10:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 85FieroFLSend a Private Message to 85FieroFLDirect Link to This Post
Update Time:

Took my ICM to Autozone, tested it i think 11 or 12 times, it did get hot and it passed everytime. I have bought the coil to ICM wire from the Fiero store. And it still doesn't stay on. I have ordered the 4 prong connector for the ICM but it takes forever from Autozone. So whats next you guys? Wait for that last connector and go form there?
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Gall757
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Report this Post08-01-2012 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Direct Link to This Post
If you can't run your car on starting fluid, you have an ignition issue. You have all new parts in the primary ignition, so it's going to be something like a bad connection or a bad new part, which is difficult to determine. It is possible that your new ignition coil is faulty also.
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