Well my fiero has sat for about 2 weeks without being started up because i needed a new battery...So today I replaced the battery, filled up on gas and it won't turn over! When I turn the key and it cranks but just won't turn over! Tried some startingbfluid but that didn't really do anything either! Need help! Any suggestions would b great!
If you use starting fluid and nothing happens, maybe there is no spark. If the Tach sits on the peg when you crank it, something is wrong with the distributor or ICM...If the tach goes up to 200 or so when you crank it, there may be something wrong with your dist. cap, ign coil or wires.
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12:48 PM
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8872 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
Your either not getting spark or fuel.Because you put a little fuel into the intake,I'de have to agree,its probubley spark.Ignition modual,or coil pack.
During cranking does the tach raise to 200 rpm and then drop back to zero? It should. If it doesn't that indicates a problem with the primary ignition components.
Does the SES light come on with the key on, engine off?
Does the fuel pump run for two seconds when you first turn the key to on but don't crank the engine?
Both should happen.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-31-2011).]
I replaced the ignition coil and still the same thing... Pulled the spark plugs and all are in very good condition and are gapped correctly. Also when i pulled the plugs they were covered in fuel so I deffinetly no that its getting fuel. Also did the screw in the wire technique and that did give a spark! In addition to changing out the coil, i also changed out the ignition module! While replacing the module, i inspected the rotor (Clean and in good condition), and the distributor cap (also clean and in good condition). Wires are all in good condition no cracks or fraying... So what the problem!? I really would like to take her out before the end of the day! If anyone can give me anymore suggestions that would be great thanks!!
Look for a black spot on the rotor at the top of the shaft, ie under the center. If your rotor is colored and there is a black spot your rotor is bad. Look for a crack or a pin hole burn through in it.
Do you have a timing light? Put the timing light and see if you get the light to flash consistantly on the spark plug wire. Then try the same on the coil wire. You should get a regular flash on both, but on the coil wire it should be 6x faster. If you get no, or spark drop out on the plug wires but good on the coil that would also point to a bad rotor.
If the rotor fits on the shaft really hard, sand off the rust from the shaft. If it fits too tight because of the rust, it can crack and split the rotor. A cracked rotor will short the spark to ground at the rotor. You will get a spark at the plug, but not too long of a spark before it shorts to ground inside the distributor.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-06-2011).]
I had the same thing happened on my 86 2.8. Plugs were wet with gas, tried to start a little with either. Had spark . I then check the fuel pressure . It turned out to be the fuel pump. Put in a new one and it worked fine.
If you removed the distributor and re-installed it, there is a very good chance you have it in a place that it won't run at.
This procedure will put the distributor adjustment close enough to start.
Take out the #1 spark plug. That is the plug right under the alternator. Then put your assistant's finger into the spark plug hole.
Turn the crank using the bolt holding on the crankshaft pulley. Turn the crank clockwise. Keep turning till your assistant says air is being blown out of the spark plug hole. It may take more than one turn to do this.
Keep on turning till the mark on the crankshaft lines up with the 10 deg before TDC mark. - See video below for a visualization of where the marks are - don't bother with any other instructions in the video until you get the engine running
Now open up the distributor. First make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug tower. Then rotate the distributor base to perfectly align the prongs and points of the reluctor with the stator (below the rotor). Then confirm the rotor is still pointing to what is the #1 spark plug tower. If so snug down the distributor hold down bolt.
Replace the dist cap Replace the spark plug Remove the wrench from the bolt at the front of the engine.
Your timing should be close enough to start the engine. ---------- Instructions for AFTER the engine is running
I can get the whole part about the distributor to work as far as lining up everything... But I'm having a hard time finding and doing is the crank shaft part! Would you be able to explain in more detail and possibly show me a picture of where it is?
Ok two things..... First, i turned the crankshaft about 4 revolutions with #1 spark plug out and I did not feel any air at all. Second, I located the timing meter but idk what the hell indicates what number you are at! I look at the piece and theres nothing that lines up to indicate what number im at! Sorry i seem like such a newbie to cars but i have no idea about timing!
Does anyone have a picture of the grooves on the harmonic balancer? im really having a hard time finding out how to get this timing down! Also is there another way to find out when im at TDC?
Good news! Found the line on the harmonic balancer to set the timing! But now I'm looking to figure out when I'm at TDC! If anyone can help me out that would great.
They say it's not practical, but I've had good luck just bumping the starter until the big groove ends up somewhere within the grid, if not at zero or ten degrees. I did this last Thanksgiving in a parking lot in a cold rain. I don't remember how many tries it took, but it can't be that many given the circumstances or it would be more memorable. It doesn't need to be exact to get it started. It'll run even with the mark outside the grid.
You don't really need to do anything before, assuming you have at least some juice left in the battery. You might want to charge it up afterwards, but you won't be using much power, you're just bumping.
You turn the key to crank just a little, then check the position of the timing mark. A bright flashlight helps. If you don't see the mark or if it's not near the grid you use to set the timing with a timing light, try again. Before long it will more than likely land close to the mark. At this point you look at your distributor rotor. It should be pointing toward the terminal which has the spark plug wire leading to cylinder number one (the one closest to the passenger side rear bumper) connected to it.
Iif it's close I wouldn't mess with it, but if it's off by quite a bit, loosen the bolt at the bottom of the distributor and turn it so that number one terminal and the rotor line up. If you manage to bump the line right to the central indicator, or between there and the ten degree mark, make the rotor line up exactly with the terminal. otherwise just line it up more or less.
I imagine this is the same as setting the timing with a timing light, just harder to do.
By the way, do you understand what people mean by the harmonic balancer slipping? Some people have had the experience of the timing mark moving from where it's supposed to be relative to the crankshaft. Naturally this makes it very difficult to start, run, or set the timing in any way without fixing the harmonic balancer first. Search the forum and compare the pictures with your harmonic balancer. If that's the problem, fix that first.
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN I HAVE BREAKING NEWS! For whetever reason i neglected to check the fuel pump this whole time so today i checked and didnt hear it run! Checked the relay and didnt click! Goin to check the relay out and hopefully this is it! Fingers Crossed!
