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4.0 Aurora by Syn
Started on: 08-24-2011 10:43 PM
Replies: 46
Last post by: Custom2M4 on 08-30-2011 09:27 PM
cptsnoopy
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Report this Post08-30-2011 01:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cptsnoopySend a Private Message to cptsnoopyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ace5514:

can i ask a question...
4.0 or 4.6, how do you put oil in the motor after it goes in the fiero and how do you turn the intake around to face the rear fo the motor....ok that's two questions.
so i'll ask another, is there any fram mods needed to fir them in the 2.8 engine compartment?
thanks
al


Hi Al,

I made an oil fill hole in the black cam cover on my engine and popped a $3 replacement oil fill plug in it. It's not high class but it works great. I also considered turning the intake around too but I ended up leaving it the stock direction. I think you just unbolt it and rotate 180 degrees and put the bolts back in. If that worked you would have to relocate some vacuum and vent lines but IIRC it should work. For frame modifications look at the first several posts in this thread. There are links to mine and other swap threads that you can see what has been done to fit the N* in the Fiero.

Charlie


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ace5514
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Report this Post08-30-2011 04:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ace5514Send a Private Message to ace5514Direct Link to This Post
Thanks Charlie,
i have read you thread several times. Nice work!! i think those are great motors and look awsome. but i think when it is time i will probably go with the 3800 s/c or na.
keep up the good work,
al
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Will
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Report this Post08-30-2011 09:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Syn:


You continually miss the point on everything, the argument is why spend the same amount for 50 less horsepower. now you've modified your argument to well if your not willing to spend the extra 500 then you shouldn't be doing a northstar/aurora swap. To make matters worse is that this price point issue has nothing to do with my initial posts or and subsequent posts about the 4.0 Aurora. Not to mention if I put the 500 dollars that your trying to now change your argument to into the aurora or build in the way of the Shelby Series 1 the horsepower will be the same if not more. (shelby tune being 320hp) So please either answer my questions that I have or stop posting trying to get me to convert to a different motor. I'm trying to get information on it not asking your opinion on which one you think I should get.


The engines are mechanically identical, other than bore and valve size. Anything you can do to a 4.0, you can do to a 4.6 with greater effect. Including the "Shelby modifications", whatever those are.
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Will
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Report this Post08-30-2011 10:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post

Will

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quote
Originally posted by ace5514:
how do you turn the intake around to face the rear of the motor


Not sure what you mean by this... on a FWD engine, the throttle is already at the "rear" of the engine. If you're doing the swap with a RWD engine, you're breaking new ground.
The manifold itself will bolt on to the heads either way. There are a number of connections to the throttle, starting with vacuum as Cptsnoopy said, but also including EGR (if your swap has to be emissions legal) and throttle body coolant (if you keep it).

If you have a '00 or newer FWD engine, then you'll have more problems. The waterlog has a boss that fits between the manifold and throttle to introduce EGR gasses to the engine. While you can probably physically turn the manifold around and bolt the throttle directly to it, the EGR boss will still be attached to the waterlog... that would just be ghetto, IMNSHO.

 
quote
Originally posted by cptsnoopy:
I made an oil fill hole in the black cam cover on my engine and popped a $3 replacement oil fill plug in it. It's not high class but it works great. I also considered turning the intake around too but I ended up leaving it the stock direction. I think you just unbolt it and rotate 180 degrees and put the bolts back in. If that worked you would have to relocate some vacuum and vent lines but IIRC it should work. For frame modifications look at the first several posts in this thread. There are links to mine and other swap threads that you can see what has been done to fit the N* in the Fiero.



I bought a small funnel that fits the PCV port on the rear cam cover. I warm the oil up to 130ish on the stove and pour it in there. I intend eventually to add an oil fill to the rear cover (and maybe remove the one from the front cover), but that's *WAY* down the priority list.

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Syn
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Report this Post08-30-2011 10:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SynSend a Private Message to SynDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


The engines are mechanically identical, other than bore and valve size. Anything you can do to a 4.0, you can do to a 4.6 with greater effect. Including the "Shelby modifications", whatever those are.


So I can reverse the cams on a 4.6 and yield better horse power?
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Will
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Report this Post08-30-2011 02:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
Not sure what you mean by "reverse".
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Custom2M4
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Report this Post08-30-2011 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Custom2M4Send a Private Message to Custom2M4Direct Link to This Post
Neither do I, but if I recall correctly the LD8 (lower hp 4.6L) and the 4.0L had the same camshafts and the intake / exhaust cams are the same size...

Valve Lift
Intake 8.6 mm 0.339 in
Exhaust 8.6 mm 0.339 in

Duration (@ 0.100 mm Lift)
Intake 244°
Exhaust 244°

But on the L37, the intake cams are larger.

• Valve Lift
• Intake 9.4 mm 0.370 in
• Exhaust 8.6 mm 0.339 in

• Duration (@ 0.100 mm Lift)
• Intake 266°
• Exhaust 244°

Also one of the intake cams feeds the water pump so that will need to be modified before you start "reversing" anything. Or just buy some L37 performance cams from COMPcams, or CHRFAB.com.

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