Been thinking about some swaps lately and I really like the 4.0 Aurora but I have some concerns;
1. Mileage-Most of them around here have average of 200K+ 2.Modification- don't think there are to many for this motor 3. Transmission-The options for the northstar bell housing are kind of slip with out doing custom
So, my question is, are there any places that sell crate 4.0? How about rebuilding a 200+K mile motor? I'm mainly concerned about the Cylinder walls more than anything because with that much age there is bound to be something. Does anyone have any links for any sort of mods for this motor?
Been thinking about some swaps lately and I really like the 4.0 Aurora but I have some concerns;
1. Mileage-Most of them around here have average of 200K+ 2.Modification- don't think there are to many for this motor 3. Transmission-The options for the northstar bell housing are kind of slip with out doing custom
So, my question is, are there any places that sell crate 4.0? How about rebuilding a 200+K mile motor? I'm mainly concerned about the Cylinder walls more than anything because with that much age there is bound to be something. Does anyone have any links for any sort of mods for this motor?
Thanks Syn.
I'm not sure you're quite on the ball with some of your concerns..
1. Mileage (yes you can still get crate motors, try your GM dealership). 2. There are lots of mods, they just aren't cheap so most people don't do them. (Check out CHRFAB.COM) 3. Transmission; The northstar uses the same bellhousing as the 2.8L, so it bolts to you factory trans, not to mention the large amount of swap kits for different transmissions, or write ups on how to modify for the transmission.
Rebuilding one: Ebay has "rebuilt" ones for 3,500 dollars on there all the time. They aren't the easiest motor to build, but it can be done. Cyl walls wouldn't be my first concern about engine wear. The heads gaskets would be.
I'm not sure you're quite on the ball with some of your concerns..
1. Mileage (yes you can still get crate motors, try your GM dealership). 2. There are lots of mods, they just aren't cheap so most people don't do them. (Check out CHRFAB.COM) 3. Transmission; The northstar uses the same bellhousing as the 2.8L, so it bolts to you factory trans, not to mention the large amount of swap kits for different transmissions, or write ups on how to modify for the transmission.
Rebuilding one: Ebay has "rebuilt" ones for 3,500 dollars on there all the time. They aren't the easiest motor to build, but it can be done. Cyl walls wouldn't be my first concern about engine wear. The heads gaskets would be.
Best of luck.
I've already called my local gm dealership, and the ones in surrounding cities they all told me the same thing, "They don't make that motor any more and we can no longer get it, try "insert junk yard" for a used one would be your best bet"
Thanks for the link I'll be checking it out shortly,
So like I said the transmission choices aren't that great, direct bolt on transmissions limit me to automatics and the manuals that were offered then.
I guess I'll have to keep a keener eye on ebay because I've not seen a rebuilt one yet, always someone wanting way to much for an over used motor. If I'm rebuilding it though what would be the big deal about head gaskets? they would be new anyways, why would that be your concern?
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11:31 PM
Aug 25th, 2011
hookdonspeed Member
Posts: 7980 From: baltimore, md Registered: May 2008
goto your local parts store and order one, youll need to source a few things from the yard (oilpan, intakes, exhaust mani's, maybe the timign cover) then you get warranty, and have your 4.0, without having to deal w/ online suppliers.
my recommendations, stay away from jasper.
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08:24 AM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2587 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
I got lucky and was able to buy a brand new in the crate Shelby tuned 4.0 for $1500. That was a couple of years ago so I am not sure if there are any left but man, what a deal...
Here is the guys info:
DALE DLUGOS Winners Circle Kustom Autobody Inc 6879 Speedway Boulevard Suite 101 Las Vegas, NV 89115 (702)643-9981
If you can't find any of the crate motors left then you will be stuck with the used variety. In my opinion the best year to try and get is a 99 version. If you have to go used you might as well get a Caddy 4.6, it is the same motor on the outside but has a bigger bore cylinder and more power in stock form. You can see my trials and tribulations with putting an Aurora 4.0L in a Fiero here. There are others on Pennock's that have done similar swaps. Search both Northstar and Aurora. They are the same as far as swapping them into a Fiero goes. Good luck...
goto your local parts store and order one, youll need to source a few things from the yard (oilpan, intakes, exhaust mani's, maybe the timign cover) then you get warranty, and have your 4.0, without having to deal w/ online suppliers.
my recommendations, stay away from jasper.
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't the parts houses like Autozone, Orielies and the such get their motors from Jasper?
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11:13 AM
hookdonspeed Member
Posts: 7980 From: baltimore, md Registered: May 2008
jasper seems to have the worse customer service and highest price, and worse quality control out of all of them.... last time i seen the engine display in advanced i think it said ATK on it...and pepboys has their own rebuilding company ("probuilt"). jasper is usually direct to customer only because of their high price, no parts stores can afford to make the markup and still be able to sell them. powertrain products and rmp i belive both have "million mile" warranty
holy moly! Unlimited Mile Warranty? that's pretty awesome, Have you seen any of theirs? good reviews? I'm glad you told me that though because I thought jasper was the only one the Auto parts stores used but now I know I at least have a choice in the matter.
@cptsnoopy thanks, I'll see if he has any, I would be willing to buy a Shelby tuned 4.0 crate motor aren't they like 340 HP?
[This message has been edited by Syn (edited 08-25-2011).]
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03:51 PM
hookdonspeed Member
Posts: 7980 From: baltimore, md Registered: May 2008
holy moly! Unlimited Mile Warranty? that's pretty awesome, Have you seen any of theirs? good reviews? I'm glad you told me that though because I thought jasper was the only one the Auto parts stores used but now I know I at least have a choice in the matter.
@cptsnoopy thanks, I'll see if he has any, I would be willing to buy a Shelby tuned 4.0 crate motor aren't they like 340 HP?
alot more then just them... they are just the ones we deal with... 1million mile, but i think its only 3years? (might be 4?) but they handle warrenty issues without any problems (given they are legit problems and not due to overheating etc)
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04:44 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14278 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Originally posted by Syn: How about rebuilding a 200+K mile motor? I'm mainly concerned about the Cylinder walls more than anything because with that much age there is bound to be something.
-Timeserts -Cylinder liners are centrifugally cast grey iron with a high nickel content. They don't wear out.
Everything you ever wanted to know (and a lot of things you didn't) about building a Northstar: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/000121-17.html There are a couple of other Northstar build threads around also.
Using a 4.0 instead of a Northstar is like choosing a 305 instead of a 350.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-25-2011).]
If I was worried about that then I wouldn't use a northstar, I'd use something newer and bigger.
What he's trying to say is that the 4.6L (The engine that Will and I both use) is basically the same motor, but it makes more power. On the outside they are the same. You could even put 4.0L parts on the 4.6 if you really want to. The 4.6L engine makes 300hp/300ft lbs stock.
As for rebuilts / crate motors. My search came up with about 30 ebay auctions for crate motors. Being both 4.0L / 4.6L. But I'm still not quite understanding why you'd go with a lower performance engine option if you're not getting an awesome deal like noopy did.
Heres an example of a rebuilt motor for 2,000 dollars.
And as for transmission options, if you want to stick with a standard you're options are pretty much 272 Getreg / F23 Getreg / F40 6spd / and the NSX transmissions.
If you look up how much power each of these transmissions will take you might be surprised. My getreg has taken alot of abuse and is fine, but when it goes I'll drop in an F23, then I'll spend some money on the NSX 5spd. If you're only thinking about using a 4.0L, then I wouldn't worry about it much.
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06:20 PM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2587 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
Originally posted by Syn:I would be willing to buy a Shelby tuned 4.0 crate motor aren't they like 340 HP?
The stock L47 is rated at 250hp @ 5600rpm and 260torque @ 4400rpm. The n/a Shelby tuned L47 has the Northstar L37 (Vin-9) cams and is rated at 320hp @ 6500rpm and 290torque @ 5000rpm. The engine I got was setup for the supercharged version of the Shelby Series 1 roadster. There are some claims that this engine would make 600hp but then there are others than say it would only make 495hp. Either way it's plenty of power. If I were to stumble across an affordable supercharger I would go ahead and put it on my engine seeing that it is ready for it. Will and Custom2M4 are right though. If you have to make a choice between two similarly aged engines, one an L47 and the other an L37 I would take the L37.
Charlie
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 08-25-2011).]
What he's trying to say is that the 4.6L (The engine that Will and I both use) is basically the same motor, but it makes more power. On the outside they are the same. You could even put 4.0L parts on the 4.6 if you really want to. The 4.6L engine makes 300hp/300ft lbs stock.
As for rebuilts / crate motors. My search came up with about 30 ebay auctions for crate motors. Being both 4.0L / 4.6L. But I'm still not quite understanding why you'd go with a lower performance engine option if you're not getting an awesome deal like noopy did.
Heres an example of a rebuilt motor for 2,000 dollars.
And as for transmission options, if you want to stick with a standard you're options are pretty much 272 Getreg / F23 Getreg / F40 6spd / and the NSX transmissions.
If you look up how much power each of these transmissions will take you might be surprised. My getreg has taken alot of abuse and is fine, but when it goes I'll drop in an F23, then I'll spend some money on the NSX 5spd. If you're only thinking about using a 4.0L, then I wouldn't worry about it much.
the link you posted was for a 4.1 4.6? and It's not the only option engine wise that I have in mind, I'm also thinking about the ecotec, the supercharged ecotec, turbocharged ecotec, ls4, ly7, 3800sc, 3800na, and the lfx. I just like the 4.0.
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10:40 PM
olejoedad Member
Posts: 19771 From: Clarendon Twp., MI Registered: May 2004
Having driven both the 4.0 in an Aurora and the 4.6 in the heavier STS, there is no way I would go with the 4.0 - the L37 plain kicks butt over the 4.0 - low low end torque on the L37 is much better than the 4.0.
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10:51 PM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2587 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
Not totally defending the 4.0 but I suspect it will be enough power to have fun and be a serious upgrade from our stock 2.8's. If I ever drive mine, I'll let you know. Again, I would get the 4.6 instead if I had to choose and they were both in the same shape and same price range.
Charlie
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11:11 PM
Aug 26th, 2011
IXSLR8 Member
Posts: 674 From: Post Falls, ID, USA Registered: Sep 2004
The 4.0 has thicker cylinder walls and is probably better suited to forced induction with a supercharger. The block & head surfaces probably have more sealing capability...probably why Shelby selected this engine over the 4.6. Either motor is amazing regarding longevity as long as you maintain it and change out your head gaskets with inserts. Keep in mind, these are expensive engines. I hope you have a budget set aside.
The 4.0 has thicker cylinder walls and is probably better suited to forced induction with a supercharger. The block & head surfaces probably have more sealing capability...probably why Shelby selected this engine over the 4.6. Either motor is amazing regarding longevity as long as you maintain it and change out your head gaskets with inserts. Keep in mind, these are expensive engines. I hope you have a budget set aside.
Theres alot of "probally's" in your post.
You won't have a problem with either the 4.0l and the 4.6l cyl walls, and no thats not the reason behind shelby choosing the engine. The shelby engine doesn't really have many similarities internally as the Aurura 4.0L. Just because the capacity is the same doesn't mean that its exactly the same motor, theres a reason why it makes more power.
Again, EXTERNALLY the engines are pretty much identical.
You shouldnt' even think of them as "different". The Shortstar is a different motor. the 4l and the 4.6l are both northstars for a reason.
A SBC can be 267 to 409 + C.I. Just like a N* can be 4 or 4.6l.
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06:16 PM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2587 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
Originally posted by Custom2M4: The shelby engine doesn't really have many similarities internally as the Aurura 4.0L. Just because the capacity is the same doesn't mean that its exactly the same motor, theres a reason why it makes more power.
Again, EXTERNALLY the engines are pretty much identical.
Not quite. Not sure if I am just misunderstanding you or if you are just slightly off base. There are 3 different 4.0L engines. The first is the original Oldsmobile L47 in stock form. The second is the IRL version of the Olds L47 and yes there are very few things between the two engines that are even similar. The IRL engine makes much more power and turns allot faster and no parts that I am aware of interchange. Then because Shelby could not easily make an IRL version of the engine legal for street use in his Series 1 Roadster, he went with the next best thing, an engine that he had worked with GM and set several records with. The original Olds L47. The only change that they did to my engine that I am aware of is taking the stock cams out and replacing them with a set of L37 cams. There probably was some adjustments to cam timing for the supercharger but that's about it. Every part in my Shelby engine is interchangeable with a stock Olds L47. Every part with the exception of the pistons and rings is likely interchangeable with the L37. I believe Alan from CHRF.com has stated that the L37 valves might interfer with the smaller L47 bore size. Anyway you look at it, I have in my possession an engine that is supposed to make more horsepower than a stock L37 but I am sure if you look at the power curves for each engine you would rather have the L37, which then can easily be modified to make much more power than a hopped up L47. There, is that confusing enough... lol
Charlie
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08:52 PM
Aug 27th, 2011
Will Member
Posts: 14278 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Originally posted by Syn:I would be willing to buy a Shelby tuned 4.0 crate motor aren't they like 340 HP?
quote
Originally posted by cptsnoopy: The stock L47 is rated at 250hp @ 5600rpm and 260torque @ 4400rpm. The n/a Shelby tuned L47 has the Northstar L37 (Vin-9) cams and is rated at 320hp @ 6500rpm and 290torque @ 5000rpm.
I've heard that the Shelby cams are installed on different lobe centers than the L37 cams. If the cams were lifted straight from the L37 and dropped into the L47, it would make 260-270 HP. Conversely, if the Shelby cams were the L37 cams, why doesn't the 4.6 L37 make 370 HP?
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-27-2011).]
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04:24 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14278 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
I've heard that the Shelby cams are installed on different lobe centers than the L37 cams. If the cams were lifted straight from the L37 and dropped into the L47, it would make 260-270 HP. Conversely, if the Shelby cams were the L37 cams, why doesn't the 4.6 L37 make 370 HP?
My ignorance is showing. Other than the shape of the lobe, what difference could there be on a cam that only drives 4 sets of intake or exhaust valves. Would you not just rotate the cam to change timing? I really have no idea what you meant by your post Will. I could see it if the cam drove both intake and exhaust on one cam... The Cast number on the cam is 1647435. Is this number just for the blank and the specific grind profile some other sort of identification? I talked to a guy that was involved in trying to get max power out of the L47 for the Shelby guys and he said they hit a wall at 320hp. Maybe it was the max rpm? Either way, all other info I have points to the cams being directly out of a Vin-9 Northstar (L37).
Just curious if what you posted has any relation to a cam that only drives one bank of intake or exhaust valves? Thanks, Charlie
My ignorance is showing. Other than the shape of the lobe, what difference could there be on a cam that only drives 4 sets of intake or exhaust valves. Would you not just rotate the cam to change timing? I really have no idea what you meant by your post Will. I could see it if the cam drove both intake and exhaust on one cam... The Cast number on the cam is 1647435. Is this number just for the blank and the specific grind profile some other sort of identification? I talked to a guy that was involved in trying to get max power out of the L47 for the Shelby guys and he said they hit a wall at 320hp. Maybe it was the max rpm? Either way, all other info I have points to the cams being directly out of a Vin-9 Northstar (L37).
Just curious if what you posted has any relation to a cam that only drives one bank of intake or exhaust valves? Thanks, Charlie
What about the supercharged version of the same motor they had? it was an option for that car.
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10:16 PM
Aug 28th, 2011
Will Member
Posts: 14278 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
My ignorance is showing. Other than the shape of the lobe, what difference could there be on a cam that only drives 4 sets of intake or exhaust valves. Would you not just rotate the cam to change timing? I really have no idea what you meant by your post Will. I could see it if the cam drove both intake and exhaust on one cam... The Cast number on the cam is 1647435. Is this number just for the blank and the specific grind profile some other sort of identification? I talked to a guy that was involved in trying to get max power out of the L47 for the Shelby guys and he said they hit a wall at 320hp. Maybe it was the max rpm? Either way, all other info I have points to the cams being directly out of a Vin-9 Northstar (L37).
Just curious if what you posted has any relation to a cam that only drives one bank of intake or exhaust valves? Thanks, Charlie
The lobes could have been ground advanced or retarded compared to the L37, or the sprockets could have been made differently to advance or retard the same cams. IE, taking the cams from a stock L37 and bolting them into a stock L47 won't yield 320 HP.
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11:44 AM
Will Member
Posts: 14278 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
What about the supercharged version of the same motor they had? it was an option for that car.
I have no knowledge other than I supposedly have one of those engines. I took the cam cover off and it all looked nearly identical to my stock L47 that I also had at the time. There was a very minor difference in the either the intake or cam lobes (I don't recall which) as I measured them with a vernier caliper. The shape of the lobes looked the same but I don't have the equipment to compare the profiles accurately. There are several claims that they made "600bhp" and one claim I read about in a driver review that said the supercharged version was making around 495-500hp. That claim I could believe.
Thanks Will,
I only assume that they rotated the cams to optimize the setup, I have no idea what they really did.
I have no knowledge other than I supposedly have one of those engines. I took the cam cover off and it all looked nearly identical to my stock L47 that I also had at the time. There was a very minor difference in the either the intake or cam lobes (I don't recall which) as I measured them with a vernier caliper. The shape of the lobes looked the same but I don't have the equipment to compare the profiles accurately. There are several claims that they made "600bhp" and one claim I read about in a driver review that said the supercharged version was making around 495-500hp. That claim I could believe. Thanks Will, I only assume that they rotated the cams to optimize the setup, I have no idea what they really did. Charlie
I don't believe the 600BHP rating either, I actually find the 495 from 320 a little bit of a stretch. I'm really more interested in the Shelby S1 Supercharged Aurora, and what exactly they did but I can't find anything on it just reviews.
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01:00 PM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2587 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
I don't believe the 600BHP rating either, I actually find the 495 from 320 a little bit of a stretch. I'm really more interested in the Shelby S1 Supercharged Aurora, and what exactly they did but I can't find anything on it just reviews.
Just to be sure we are talking about the same engine, the IRL (not a shelby that I am aware of) was not supercharged. The supercharged engine for the Shelby Series 1 roadster is the engine I have. There is nothing really special about it. I think the supercharger was a stand-alone unit, not mounted between the heads but I will need to research that again to be sure. Here is a quote from Wikipedia which seems to agree with what I know about the IRL version.
quote
Starting in 1997, IRL cars were powered by 4.0 L V8, methanol burning, production-based, normally-aspirated engines, produced by Oldsmobile (under the Aurora label) and Nissan (badged as Infiniti). Per IRL rules, the engines sold for no more than $80,000, and were rev-limited to 10,500 rpm.[10] They produced around 700 hp (520 kW).[10]
Check this link for more IRL 4.0 info. None of these references mention Shelby at all. I don't think he had anything to do with the IRL 4.0L.
Here is a link to a review of the Shelby Series 1 Roadster. It is not very flattering.
Just to be sure we are talking about the same engine, the IRL (not a shelby that I am aware of) was not supercharged. The supercharged engine for the Shelby Series 1 roadster is the engine I have. There is nothing really special about it. I think the supercharger was a stand-alone unit, not mounted between the heads but I will need to research that again to be sure. Here is a quote from Wikipedia which seems to agree with what I know about the IRL version. [QUOTE]Starting in 1997, IRL cars were powered by 4.0 L V8, methanol burning, production-based, normally-aspirated engines, produced by Oldsmobile (under the Aurora label) and Nissan (badged as Infiniti). Per IRL rules, the engines sold for no more than $80,000, and were rev-limited to 10,500 rpm.[10] They produced around 700 hp (520 kW).[10]
Check this link for more IRL 4.0 info. None of these references mention Shelby at all. I don't think he had anything to do with the IRL 4.0L.
Here is a link to a review of the Shelby Series 1 Roadster. It is not very flattering.[/QUOTE]
No no, The IRL is a Twin Turbo heavily modified version of the 4.0, the Supercharged version that I'm referring to is the Shelby Series 1 Option to have the supercharger added. If it was a centrifugal supercharger that could be a problem since there wouldn't be a whole lot room in the front of the motor for one. I can't find a picture of it either to verify that.
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07:40 PM
IXSLR8 Member
Posts: 674 From: Post Falls, ID, USA Registered: Sep 2004
Why stop at the 6.0L when you can install a jetengine?
The point that everyone is making is, if your going to install a V8 Northstar, why not get the top-end one for the same price? If your heart is set on having the "Shelby" motor, then go right ahead.... But don't expect me to wait for you at the end of the track .
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10:58 PM
Aug 29th, 2011
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2587 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
One thing for sure, You would have a long wait. I would be at the starting line with Isuzu parts lying all over the ground... No racing for me. Just some careful shifting and lightly spirited driving. If I ever decide I need a racing Fiero, it'll likely have a built 3.8 and an automatic.
Here is a picture of the supercharger without the plumbing.
Charlie
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02:00 AM
IXSLR8 Member
Posts: 674 From: Post Falls, ID, USA Registered: Sep 2004
I'd love to see that up close and from the other side.
There's room for a supercharger on my passenger side of the car. Hummmmmm. Just got to save the cash and do it. My Northstar sucks $500 everytime I look at it.
I like the idea of a supercharger between the heads where the present intake is....say an Eaton model 90 upside down or something like that.
[This message has been edited by IXSLR8 (edited 08-29-2011).]
One thing for sure, You would have a long wait. I would be at the starting line with Isuzu parts lying all over the ground... No racing for me. Just some careful shifting and lightly spirited driving. If I ever decide I need a racing Fiero, it'll likely have a built 3.8 and an automatic.
Here is a picture of the supercharger without the plumbing.
Charlie
Damn that's a tight little package,*no pun intended, HEY--OO!* It looks really good though. Really wish it was between the heads though.
quote
Originally posted by Custom2M4:
Why stop at the 6.0L when you can install a jetengine?
The point that everyone is making is, if your going to install a V8 Northstar, why not get the top-end one for the same price? If your heart is set on having the "Shelby" motor, then go right ahead.... But don't expect me to wait for you at the end of the track .
Point of clarification, The 4.0 is HALF the price for the same mileage so your point about it being the same price is invalid. and the ls7 isn't a 6.0L, it's a 7.0L and the ls9 is a 6.2L so if I wanted more than that I wouldn't stop at a 6.0L
[This message has been edited by Syn (edited 08-29-2011).]
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10:45 AM
Will Member
Posts: 14278 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Point of clarification, The 4.0 is HALF the price for the same mileage so your point about it being the same price is invalid. and the ls7 isn't a 6.0L, it's a 7.0L and the ls9 is a 6.2L so if I wanted more than that I wouldn't stop at a 6.0L
www.car-parts.com I checked the midwestern region for '99 Northstars (interchanges back to '96) and '99 Auroras.
Sure enough, $500 is half of $1000, but if you're that worried about the initial cost, do a 3.4 instead.
If this were a BMW forum and you were balking at spending $2000 for an S52 or $5000 for an S38, I'd understand... but if you're going to let $500 stop you from getting 50 more HP ($10/HP is CHEAP), then you shouldn't be starting a Northstar/Aurora swap.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-29-2011).]
You can purchase a brand NEW 4.6L northstar for 2,000 dollars. I haven't seen the 4.0L crates go for cheap since that last batch of "shelby" motors went.
The last used 4.6L I bought costed me about 250 dollars, I guess I just got lucky.
www.car-parts.com I checked the midwestern region for '99 Northstars (interchanges back to '96) and '99 Auroras.
Sure enough, $500 is half of $1000, but if you're that worried about the initial cost, do a 3.4 instead.
If this were a BMW forum and you were balking at spending $2000 for an S52 or $5000 for an S38, I'd understand... but if you're going to let $500 stop you from getting 50 more HP ($10/HP is CHEAP), then you shouldn't be starting a Northstar/Aurora swap.
You continually miss the point on everything, the argument is why spend the same amount for 50 less horsepower. now you've modified your argument to well if your not willing to spend the extra 500 then you shouldn't be doing a northstar/aurora swap. To make matters worse is that this price point issue has nothing to do with my initial posts or and subsequent posts about the 4.0 Aurora. Not to mention if I put the 500 dollars that your trying to now change your argument to into the aurora or build in the way of the Shelby Series 1 the horsepower will be the same if not more. (shelby tune being 320hp) So please either answer my questions that I have or stop posting trying to get me to convert to a different motor. I'm trying to get information on it not asking your opinion on which one you think I should get.
You continually miss the point on everything, the argument is why spend the same amount for 50 less horsepower. now you've modified your argument to well if your not willing to spend the extra 500 then you shouldn't be doing a northstar/aurora swap. To make matters worse is that this price point issue has nothing to do with my initial posts or and subsequent posts about the 4.0 Aurora. Not to mention if I put the 500 dollars that your trying to now change your argument to into the aurora or build in the way of the Shelby Series 1 the horsepower will be the same if not more. (shelby tune being 320hp) So please either answer my questions that I have or stop posting trying to get me to convert to a different motor. I'm trying to get information on it not asking your opinion on which one you think I should get.
I appologize if myself, and perhaps Will are trying to persuade you into the 4.6L.
The main reason behind this is that you stated right from the first post that you wanted either a crate motor or a rebuilt motor. There are alot more available in regards to the 4.6L then there are with the 4.0L. You can find 4.6L's rebuilt / new for 2,000 - 2,500 (Without a core) quite often, which will be a fraction of what you'd pay for rebuilding it yourself.
I'll finish the arguement at that, and if you do decide to go either route and need some help don't hesitate to ask.
Best of luck, Chase.
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08:56 PM
ace5514 Member
Posts: 692 From: west long branch, nj, usa Registered: Nov 2008
can i ask a question... 4.0 or 4.6, how do you put oil in the motor after it goes in the fiero and how do you turn the intake around to face the rear of the motor....ok that's two questions. so i'll ask another, is there any frame mods needed to fit them in the 2.8 engine compartment? thanks al
edit...spelling again!!!
[This message has been edited by ace5514 (edited 08-30-2011).]