So currently my alternator on my 67 sbc is wired as such...
1 wire to a ground, another straight to the battery..
How it has been working so far is beyond me but I finally picked up a external voltage regulator. The alternator has a plug with two prongs one prong to ground other to battery, and then a seperate bolt post.
When wired in position A) Car charges around 12 volts if I switch around the 2 wires B) Car charges at 17volts and when I turn the ignition of it keeps running (backfeeding?)
Car currently runs but the battery 'kinda sorta' charges around 12 volts and will drop to 10-11 if I turn the fan on. Eventually if I drive for long enough with the fan on the car will drop to around 8-9 volts.
I looked up a bunch of diagrams for wiring the regulator but they talk about sending wires to the ignition switch, headlight switch, and a horn relay? How can I hook this guy up to my 86GT? I have a relay panel in the trunk that I run to the fuel pump, water pump and fan. I have 3 posts extra on this panel, can I use this?
I suggest upgrade to 12SI or CS130. Besides fixing wiring problems, upgrade will add more amp. 105 amps max for stock CS130...
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I have a brand new alternator for the stock V6 fiero, will that work?
I ran a stock alt for about 6 months, and a single wire for a couple of years. I just installed a new CS like Ogre suggests. I have to sort out a balancer issue before I will have it back on the road. If you already have the alt then its worth a shot but it may not last and fail like mine did.
I ran a stock alt for about 6 months, and a single wire for a couple of years. I just installed a new CS like Ogre suggests. I have to sort out a balancer issue before I will have it back on the road. If you already have the alt then its worth a shot but it may not last and fail like mine did.
Adam, I used the stock 4 cylinder alternator on my V8 swap. It was internally regulated, and I don't remember that it was wired any differently than the stock setup. It was just in a different location. Your car, like mine is carburated and the original wire harness should just hookup like it did in the factory installation. It could be that the new alt. is bad. Have it checked at an auto parts store. Be sure you have plenty of ground wires, especially in all the original places. I just refered to my old "Archie" installation instructions to refresh myself. I think the same wiring instructions are on his website, still. I have since replaced the alt with a larger amp rating unit, but it plugged into the stock stuff. You don't need an additional regulator.
I'm not 100% sure but I believe that a faulty sense wire caused it to fail. I know it worked great when I first installed it then after couple of weeks it started charging less. Eventually it wouldn't charge enough to keep the battery charged. After reading Ogres cave article and some of the links I'm pretty sure thats what happened. Thats why I plan on running a new sense wire and idiot light instead of using the stock one. Going to put the light behind the check engine light as I dont use the computer anymore. Its just a big wire connector
also see my cave, alt sense in charge & start section. Second image is what you want.
Sense just need a short wire between sense and output contacts. Just use the OE lamp circuit.
read CS130 and maybe Watt Story to.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Ok, I' m on shift today so I wont be able to look at the car. The thing is the alternate on the car right now is a period correct alternate for a 60's sbc. That is why I needed a voltage regulator. I also have sitting in my room a remanufactured alt for a v6. The heads that are on the engine don'y have preset holes or any embossed places where I could drill and mount the alternate bracket, so I went with a low mount.
I'll go ahead and do some research today, hopefully I can drive around soon without carrying a jumbox with me all the time
I just held up the the alternator with a belt on it and measured the distance from the bottom AC mount hole to the bottom hole in the alt. Drilled two holes in a flat bar stock. Once I had the bottom bar I measured the top one and made the slot to let me tighten it up. The turn buckle was added to help hold the brackets in place and to help tighten up the belt. The back side of the lower mount is just a flat bar with two holes. That helps to keep the alt from twisting.
My alt inst the same as a stock Fiero alt so my measurements wont be the same. If memory serves me the bottom holes are 5 inches apart.
