As part of my 3800 swap, I've torn off all of the nasty black fiberglass insulation. So, I need to replace it. To make things easy, I'm buying Fierosails' firewall heat shield pattern. However, I need to find heat shield material. I'm looking to spend under $100.
Fierosails suggests "Reflectix," which they claim is available at home improvement stores. I don't know about its temperature range and flame resistance.
I called Dynamat and their representative said that their Hoodliner and Dynamat Xtreme could take the radiant heat if it were at least 3 inches away (which the headers aren't). However, I'm sticking with the stock header heatshields that came with the engine. So, the temperature should be cut. They also mentioned that their materials are flame retardant.
What other good heat shields are there out there? Should I want one that's adhesive?
I used a peel-n-stick duct insulation from Home Depot. It's a dense-foam type and cost about $15 a roll. I put on two layers. I can't say I notice a difference from the old insulation in terms of noise or heat. It's been on there for about 6 months and shows no signs of charring or letting go. Don't really care for the gaudy look but it's cheap and effective.
------------------ Bob T.
[This message has been edited by fyrebird68 (edited 07-27-2010).]
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03:03 PM
UND_Sioux Member
Posts: 319 From: Houston, TX, USA Registered: Dec 2009
Check out www.lizardskin.com. It is sprayed on and is good for both heat and sound insulation. I'm spraying it both in the engine compartment and on the inside.
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03:26 PM
DLCLK87GT Member
Posts: 2717 From: South Jersey, USA Registered: Feb 2009
sounds pretty cool but it sure isn't cheep. 140 for 2 gallons....how much did you use to do the firewall? Can't imagine using anywhere near 2 gallons for that area. I used the HVAC foam peel and stick for the floors, center hump and behind the seats. looks like i'm geting ready to go into space.
Years ago I helped with the development of the Reflectix product and it will definately control the heat. I use it inside the trunk on the muffler side, and have a piece protecting my coolant hose where it goes over the exhaust crossover pipe on my 4.9.
Look near the bottom of this page to see what it looks like installed. I have not run the engine since I installed the heat shield so I cannot tell you if it helps a lot or a little yet. Just fyi, I got two rolls with the kit and I used about 75% of one roll so far doing the rear of the engine bay and the top half of the firewall.
Look near the bottom of this page to see what it looks like installed. I have not run the engine since I installed the heat shield so I cannot tell you if it helps a lot or a little yet. Just fyi, I got two rolls with the kit and I used about 75% of one roll so far doing the rear of the engine bay and the top half of the firewall.
Charlie
Thats a good deal..I have bought mine from Summit before and was about to order more from them. After seeing this I will order that kit from JC Whitney instead as you get more for less.
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06:29 AM
Jul 30th, 2010
Rolling Thunder Member
Posts: 1244 From: College Station, TX Registered: Aug 2008
It works very well for both sound and heat. Pretty cheap, very easy to install (peal and stick), and looks good installed. Its the same thing WCF sells but at a much lower price.
I know some people don't like the shiny insulation. But it does the best job with radiant heat. Here is a shot of mine... Un-needed brackets were removed and the lowest ones were taped to be almost completely hidden. Can you spot them?
Last line in the description "product will melt at 200°"... Keep exhaust manifolds clear
Yeah I saw that. Yet I've been using it for years with no problems. The fierosails ariticle mentions it also. And WCF has had it as long as I can remember. I just recently added extra heat shields to the manifolds too and it never melted before that. This is on a 4.9 swap with the exhaust manifolds closer then stock fiero engines.
It probably would melt if it was touching the manifolds but being near them doesn't seem to hurt it. That last line might just be there to help them avoid liability issues. Who knows? :shrug:
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-30-2010).]
I have way too much heat to trust that stuff. I used stainless steel sheet stock, cut and fit shields, and put heat wrap on the reverse side. My standoffs are stainless also.
Arn
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04:45 PM
my2m4fiero Member
Posts: 439 From: Wichita, Kansas, USA Registered: Apr 2004
Leave it off and just paint the engine bay? If it does end up being too hot, you can always add it back later.
Yeah--Adding it later is an option but with that option comes alot of cussing and cut hands...While it is not impossible to add at a later time it is very difficult.....Plus without it you see a huge diffeance in the heat......
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11:14 PM
May 12th, 2011
TopNotch Member
Posts: 3537 From: Lawrenceville, GA USA Registered: Feb 2009
if i ever get the chance to do mine i'm going to use something out of northern tool catalog, its called " STEINER VELVET SHIELD CARBONIZED FIBER BLANKET " . its soft,lightweight and flexible yet extremely fire and heat resistant. withstands temeratures to 1800 degrees. tough, tear-resistant blankets provide protection from direct contact with splatter shield. color " BLACK " PRICE $ 74.99 order 3 or more and you get some kind of discount. they also have other sizes and some with lower prices and temps. size of this one is 4' x 6' .
[This message has been edited by old one (edited 05-12-2011).]
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03:41 PM
TopNotch Member
Posts: 3537 From: Lawrenceville, GA USA Registered: Feb 2009
but it sure isn't cheep. 140 for 2 gallons....how much did you use to do the firewall? Can't imagine using anywhere near 2 gallons for that area. I used the HVAC foam peel and stick for the floors, center hump and behind the seats. looks like i'm geting ready to go into space. 
