I am getting ready to paint my control arms/other suspension parts and am trying to decide the most durable method.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...031110-1-029256.html
This looks like a great option, any opinions?

I would rather not spend the money to powder coat unless it is significantly more durable than other more cost effective methods. If it is far superior than it is definitely an option.

Thanks
Blake

Powder coating is significantly more durable than other more cost effective methods. I have a lot of paint here and I'm powdercoating all of my suspension stuff. It is far superior.

Mark

Powder coating is far superior to paint.
I powder coated my control arms semi gloss black for my Lambo build. Put the new poly bushings in the arms, then the control arms on the car and had to beat on the arms with a hard rubber mallet to get them in and aligned for the bolts. The mallet never left a mark on the powder coating.
Also, just for fun, I took some of the stainless wire I had used to hang smaller parts up to powder and had the coating baked on from the oven. You can bend the wire into a pretzel, and back over on to itself, and the powder will not split or chip off. Try that with any paint.

Kevin

[This message has been edited by Lambo nut (edited 06-08-2010).]

Another vote for powder coating:

It's like being dipped in hardshell plastic, and it really is tough. No more brake fluid dissolving the paint..

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Currently in the middle of my 88 + 3800NA swap

Try caliper paint if you want to go with paint.

I think powdercoating is garbage for a chassis or frame. Its a personal opinion, but just look at most trailer hitches. Powdercoat gets a chip, then flakes off in chunks. My aztek frame was fairly clean(paint), but the hitch was a rusty mess (powdercoat). As long as it isn't pierced, its great, but once you break the "plastic" surface, it seems there is no bond to the metal. Good paint seems to hold better. I know I am in the minority on this opinion, though

quote Originally posted by smartaxel: I think powdercoating is garbage for a chassis or frame. Its a personal opinion, but just look at most trailer hitches. Powdercoat gets a chip, then flakes off in chunks. My aztek frame was fairly clean(paint), but the hitch was a rusty mess (powdercoat). As long as it isn't pierced, its great, but once you break the "plastic" surface, it seems there is no bond to the metal. Good paint seems to hold better. I know I am in the minority on this opinion, though

Powercoating looks great and will last, provided that it isn't chipped but chip it does. Chips will allow water to get trapped underneath the coating and rust will set in fast. Its also an expensive process. I've found cheaper long lasting alternatives like Epoxy chassis paint. That stuff is pretty tough and long lasting as well.
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-08-2010).]

I'm going with a 2k urethane epoxy primer and then 2k polyurethane paint for my suspension components (and brake calipers). At least for now. My reasoning behind this is that the 2k paint will resist brake fluid and that I can do all the work myself (which will keep me busy and happy, as opposed to just waiting for stuff to get back from the powder-coater).

Initially I was going to have the control arms and spindles galvanized before painting but decided that was out of my budget this time around.

Hmmm, thanks for the responses. It sounds like powder coating might be the way to go. Is it a good option to prep the parts yourself rather than paying to have it done?

I have this compressor: http://www.harborfreight.co...ompressor-90234.html

1) Should i buy a cheap sand blaster like this: http://www.harborfreight.co...aster-gun-95793.html
Then just sand blast the control arms?

2) Or should i use some paint stripping chemical for prep?

3) Is it smarter for me to just pay a sand blasting business to do the work.

Thanks for the opinions

[This message has been edited by LZeppelin513 (edited 06-08-2010).]

quote Originally posted by LZeppelin513: That's a good point. My car agrees that good paint holds very well. The paint on my control arms is in very good condition especially for being 22 years old. No rust or anything at all.

I might add that Epoxy chassis paint is resistant to gasoline and brake fluid
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-08-2010).]

quote Originally posted by LZeppelin513: To PerKr and Dennis: I like the idea of painting them myself and if this stuff is as good as powder coating then maybe that's how i want it done. Where do I get the urethane paint and primer? Is it best to strip the part down to bare metal before painting with these? Also, is there any sort of special procedures to this, or is it just prep, prime, let dry for a day, and paint. Thanks for all the help everyone, pluses everyone. Blake

Well, I have sandblasted my control arms to get rid of rust, paint and whatever else was on there. Took quite a while, but considering what my control arms looked like...
The process for me will be to blast them again on the day of painting, then clean off any remaining dust before going at them with the primer. A few minutes between layers I guess, followed by sanding for those parts (the calipers) where I'm concerned about having a nice-looking end-finish. Probably repeat this a couple of times until I'm convinced there is no metal exposed and I'm happy with the thickness of the paint. I would think paint could be applied within an hour or so after the final layer of primer, depending on how long it takes to dry, but I will have to wait until the next day either way so I'm not overly concerned about that.

Hey, 513, let me share this with you. Back in '97 my friend helped me detail my '67 Pont. Catalina s/w. I had the upper and lower control arms glass beaded, then my friend applied POR-15 to the parts with a foam brush. Then, when the paint was just a little bit tacky he applied primer, followed by several spray coats of gloss black enamel after the primer was also tacky. They lasted for several years until an underhood fire totalled the car in Oct. '08. There are several great methods as are mentioned here on this thread. It is entirely up to you which route you decide to go. If it wasn't so expensive, I would have had my parts chromed. Good luck with your project. Ernie

If your going with black. use Chassis Black from an auto paint store. It dries hard and glossy and its an oil based enamel to help deter rust.