Ummm Ummm Roast A-Arm.. baked at 225 degrees for 2 hours for a durable suckulent finish
Ahhh and what is this??? Ohhh yes... Broiled knuckel of fiero garnished with stone guard and topped with rebuilt wheel bearing filled with heavy duty grease.. Yummm E And what is this on the side? Ahh it is Tie Rod Kabob filled with MollyGraph lube.
Doesn't it look scrumptious?
All finishes are stock.
[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-21-2003).]
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10:23 PM
PFF
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FieroJames Member
Posts: 322 From: Corpus Christi , Texas , USA Registered: Feb 2002
The paint is VHT Engine Enamal. I chose it because it was the closest paint I could find that equaled the original paint in durability and finish. The stuff is good if it's not baked but if you cook it it cures very well and will resist gas, oil grease and solvents. I've even bumped parts together and the paint didn't chip.
the MFG recomends 200 for 1 hr but I found the 225 for several hours does the trick.
It looked so good I almost didn't want to paint it.
It spent 1 day in a miratic acid bath then it was washed in water, dried in the oven for an hour at 200 then wire wheeled to get the surface rust off, hung and sprayed original GM grey metalic
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11:22 PM
FieroGT87 Member
Posts: 3195 From: St. Louis, Mo, USA Registered: Jul 2001
Makes me want to go do the same thing LOL, my wife would roast my arse if I tried that with her oven.
Earl R.
HEheh Mine was going to but if you notice, the oven needs a cleaning so I prommiced to get easyoff and clean it up ASAP! She naturally agreed it was a fair trade
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11:44 PM
Cheever3000 Member
Posts: 12400 From: The Man from Tallahassee Registered: Aug 2001
Those look good. I kept passing up this thread because of the title until I got curious What kind of solution are you using with the muriatic acid? 50/50 water, acid?
------------------ Alan Frazier '86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC under construction '84 2m4 daily driver
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07:24 AM
Black_Hawk Member
Posts: 135 From: Hastings, Minnesota Registered: Jan 2003
Thanks for stopping in neverendingproject I know it's not a 5 star thread but ya'll come back now ya hear I used 2 gallons acid and 1 gallon water after I discovered the vapor cloud from straigh acid was killing the neighbors grass... and trees and peeling the paint off the garage walls
No it doesn't hurt the oven much as far as smelling up food but it needed to be cleaned anyway. Oven cleaners are actualy much worse and thats why oven cleaning is a dreaded chore. It takes an hour of wiping with fresh water to remove the easy off smell.
Her cooking? I change the batteries in her oven timer annualy (usually during fire saftey week) and test them every other week for proper operation. I recently got her a new one but she doesn't like it because instead of beeping is says Fire! Fire! and then beeps 3 times before saying fire again.
Dessert? Keep watching for my threads
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01:28 PM
Jul 6th, 2003
SplineZ Member
Posts: 952 From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Registered: Nov 2002
HAH! that is tooo funny... Wouldnt something a little less acidic work well too? or atleast something not as stinky
James Z
quote
Originally posted by 84Bill: I used 2 gallons acid and 1 gallon water after I discovered the vapor cloud from straigh acid was killing the neighbors grass... and trees and peeling the paint off the garage walls
------------------ - 2.8v6, 5spd - no cat, msd ignition/coil, K&N
Looking great so far! My wife's a good sport too. She let me bake the clearcoat on 4 refinished wheels. Have you ever tried sand blasting as opposed to the acid dip. I was wondering the pros & cons.
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09:29 PM
Firefox Member
Posts: 4307 From: New Berlin, Wisconsin Registered: Feb 2003
Have you ever tried sand blasting as opposed to the acid dip. I was wondering the pros & cons.
There definitely can be a difference between acid dipping and sandblasting. Acid dipping is a superior at removing rust because it gets into every little crevice and seam area where a sandblaster may not hit hard enough to remove all of the rust. That's a positive. Unfortunately, it's very difficult to remove all of the acid from those little crevices, and the acid can come back to bleed through the paint and wreck the paint job. That's a big negative. The ideal situation for acid dipping is a piece of steel that isn't welded together so there is no place for the acid to hide. I have had people recommend not acid dipping rims because if you don't remove all of the acid, the weld will weaken from that acid that remains, and you are looking at a possible seperation of the rim. I don't know how likely that is, but that's what I've been told.
I had been debating the pros and cons myself about acid dipping a 442 convertible body shell, and every restoration guy that I've talked with said to sandblast because of the acid leakage problem......so I'm sandblasting. That scared me into it, but I certainly do see the advantages of acid dipping in the right circumstance.
Mark the resto guy
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10:09 PM
Jul 7th, 2003
ToddAsh Member
Posts: 328 From: Springfield,Pa. Registered: Nov 2000
Hey Rich, I diluted the acid just a little with water. It really does cause a cloud of noxious fumes. I usually dip it for no more than needed. I'll check the part every few minutes until I'm satisfied.
I would glass or even rice bead my parts but acid costs about 4 bucks for 2 gallons, the air compressor is 500+ not to mention the electric. The result would be about the same. The acid does get into EVEY nook and cranny.
One drawback to the acid is it will etch the metal. You want to remove as much paint and grease before using it. The results can be stunning, just look at that knuckel pic above.
LOL Hugh, that would mean you still have all your teeth, how can that be possible?
[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 07-07-2003).]
Oh and do not even try to put aluminum in the acid, you will end up with a volcanic activity and there will be little left of the aluminum part. But it sure does look cool
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02:10 PM
hugh Member
Posts: 5563 From: Clementon,NJ,USA Registered: Jun 2000