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Identifying a 3.4 block by Fierasco
Started on: 05-16-2010 06:19 PM
Replies: 9
Last post by: project34 on 05-18-2010 09:41 PM
Fierasco
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Report this Post05-16-2010 06:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierascoSend a Private Message to FierascoDirect Link to This Post
So I have read a lot of threads on here about the 3.4 engine swap. It looks simple enough since there are few modifications. Here in California you can't just swap a motor without getting into trouble with the California Air Resource Board. We all know the engine will run the same (maybe better!) as the original 2.8 but rules are rules.

Other than the re-drilled starter is there any way for someone to tell I've swapped my 2.8 for a 3.4? A friend brought up the idea of doing a 3.1 since I'd just reuse my block but I have heard the oiling on the 3.4 is significantly better. I like the idea of having greater reliability and more hp.

Are there extra ribs on the side of a 3.4 block? I know it's hard to see on a Fiero but I'd like it to look as stock as possible.

Unfortunately I'm limited to the stock intake and exhaust manifolds so I'll just have to deal with porting those.
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project34
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Report this Post05-16-2010 07:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for project34Send a Private Message to project34Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierasco:
Other than the re-drilled starter is there any way for someone to tell I've swapped my 2.8 for a 3.4?

I suppose that is possible theoretically, but even good mechanics I deal with can't easily see that my swap is a 3.4L if I don't tell them it is.

 
quote
Originally posted by Fierasco:
A friend brought up the idea of doing a 3.1 since I'd just reuse my block but I have heard the oiling on the 3.4 is significantly better.

I've nothing against the 3.1L modification to the stock 2.8L Fiero block, but the oiling is better on the 3.4L, and that, along with its improved, off-the-line around-town torque, is why I eventually decided to go with a 3.4L swap instead of the 3.1L modification to the stock 2.8L Fiero block that I 'd considered earlier.

By the way, welcome to Pennock's Fiero Forum, and good luck to you with your engine project!
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Fierasco
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Report this Post05-17-2010 02:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierascoSend a Private Message to FierascoDirect Link to This Post
Thank you for the warm welcome. PFF seems to be a very friendly place and I really enjoy the build threads. Some of the stuff in there is amazing!

What do you guys have for recommendations on a 3.4?

Junkyard?
I have found several locally that list the long block for $350-$600 out of a mid 90's Camaro/Fbird

Rebuilt "crate" motor
I have seen the name Jasper's thrown around but I've also heard of places doing really bad work. What would you guys recommend for a crate motor? I'm not looking to spend crazy money, just something that will be reliable.

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crazyd
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Report this Post05-17-2010 02:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for crazydClick Here to visit crazyd's HomePageSend a Private Message to crazydDirect Link to This Post
You don't re-drill the starter, you re-drill the block. Nobody would notice that there are starter holes on both sides of the block. But, there is a big T stamped in the side of the 3.4 block. There's a crank position sensor between the pan and balancer. There's another one in the side of the block. There's an adapter fitting for the oil pressure sender on A/C installs. The compressor bracket has to be custom made. The coolant temp sensor is relocated to the other head. There's an oil level sensor in the side of the pan. Looking under a Fiero, I could tell you in a second if it's a 3.4, but only because of how well I know the swap (I wrote the fiero34swap page). But even inexperienced eyes would probably notice all those sensors with cut wires around the oil pan. If you can make it look like those things should be there, or find a way to remove them and plug the holes inconspicuously, you might be able to sneak it past.
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thedrue
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Report this Post05-17-2010 02:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thedrueSend a Private Message to thedrueDirect Link to This Post
Drop the 3.4 in, nobody especially those CARB inspectors will have any idea what they are looking at. Enjoy, kind of makes me with I lived in Cali so I could pull a fast one on them just cause I think it would be rewarding.

Anyway, any of the major rebuilders is a good place to get the engine, they will warranty it. Junkyard is fine if you want to build it yourself but I would not trust one out of the box. Too much work installing it to find out it is bad.

Good luck, have fun.
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crazyd
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Report this Post05-17-2010 02:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for crazydClick Here to visit crazyd's HomePageSend a Private Message to crazydDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierasco:
What do you guys have for recommendations on a 3.4?

Junkyard?
I have found several locally that list the long block for $350-$600 out of a mid 90's Camaro/Fbird

Rebuilt "crate" motor
I have seen the name Jasper's thrown around but I've also heard of places doing really bad work. What would you guys recommend for a crate motor? I'm not looking to spend crazy money, just something that will be reliable.


Jasper-rebuilt motors have not proven themselves to be particularly reliable. If you can rebuild it yourself, get the $350 motor. If you don't have that level of expertise, buy the low-mile $600 motor. Best to get your 2.8 out of the car and fully disassembled before getting the junkyard motor. Don't just buy one and let it sit until you get around to starting your project, because the warranty will be short (30-90 days) and you'll need to make the most of that time in case it has problems.

------------------

- Electron Blue '88 GT ZZ430 RPFI V8 5-speed (430hp) {Construction Zone}
- Silver '88 GT 5-speed w/cammed 3.4 (160hp)
- LS1 6-speed C5 Corvette Roadster (475hp)
- LT4 6-speed C4 Corvette Roadster (350hp)
- '92 Grand Prix GTP 3.4 DOHC 284 5-speed (215hp)
- '08 Baja Reaction 150 CVT (10hp)
Keeper of the 3.4 swap pages {OHV} {DOHC}

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Oreif
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Report this Post05-17-2010 06:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by crazyd:

You don't re-drill the starter, you re-drill the block. Nobody would notice that there are starter holes on both sides of the block. But, there is a big T stamped in the side of the 3.4 block. There's a crank position sensor between the pan and balancer. There's another one in the side of the block. There's an adapter fitting for the oil pressure sender on A/C installs. The compressor bracket has to be custom made. The coolant temp sensor is relocated to the other head. There's an oil level sensor in the side of the pan. Looking under a Fiero, I could tell you in a second if it's a 3.4, but only because of how well I know the swap (I wrote the fiero34swap page). But even inexperienced eyes would probably notice all those sensors with cut wires around the oil pan. If you can make it look like those things should be there, or find a way to remove them and plug the holes inconspicuously, you might be able to sneak it past.


GM sells caps and plugs for all the unused sensors (cam, crank, etc.) so it will look "stock" to an inspector. You don't need to leave any of the unused sensors in the block.
The coolant temp sensor can be moved to the other head (or if you are cleaning up the block, swap heads from one side of the block to the other)
The AC compressor bracket does not need to be custom made, You can weld a small block onto the engine block and then tap it. Once welded and the block painted it will look "stock".
Use a 2.8L oil pan and timing cover and the oil level sensor is gone.

While someone who is very familiar with the 3.4L swap could see the difference, I doubt an emission inspector would know what to look for on the block. Especially since the only real difference is the short block assembly.
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project34
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Report this Post05-17-2010 03:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for project34Send a Private Message to project34Direct Link to This Post
Fierasco, the archived thread on this forum which is titled "cam sensor plug?" identifies some inexpensive alternatives for plugging the cam and crank sensor holes in a 3.4L engine swap. That archived thread is accessible to you via this link: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-085513.html . In it, PFF member, Oreif, also provides the GM part numbers for those sensor hole plugs in the second last post to that thread.

That post was created nearly three years ago, so it's possible the GM part numbers cited there since have been superseded by newer GM part numbers. Nonetheless, a helpful GM parts counter guy presumably should be able to help you with that issue.
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Fierasco
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Report this Post05-17-2010 03:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierascoSend a Private Message to FierascoDirect Link to This Post
This is a lot of great info guys. I'm planning on doing the swap within the next two months. To minimize downtime I'd like to buy something that has at least been gone through but it sounds like a short block might meet my needs. According to a lot of the information on this site the heads and intake manifold are really restrictive. I'd like to port the heads and manifold to be as efficient as possible given their limitations.

I'd rather not have to get into the bottom end of the motor but I know mine has good heads on it. Is there a good source for short blocks?
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project34
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Report this Post05-18-2010 09:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for project34Send a Private Message to project34Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierasco:
So I have read a lot of threads on here about the 3.4 engine swap. It looks simple enough since there are few modifications. Here in California....I'd like it to look as stock as possible....Unfortunately I'm limited to the stock intake and exhaust manifolds so I'll just have to deal with porting those.

Your comments reminded me of a thread in The Mall that may be of interest to you: "Dawg's performance intakes" ( https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...051596.html#lastpost ).

Basically, PFF member, Dawg, has replaced the flat, restrictive underside of the stock neck of the Fiero's aluminum manifold, and replaced it with some semi-circular aluminum tubing:

 
quote
Originally posted by Dawg:




I'm interested in that modified intake manifold for perhaps different reasons than you might be, but I think if you further smoothed over its welds with some J-B Weld, sanded that down a bit, and then painted it the same color as the stock intake manifold, you might have a nice "stealth" manifold.

Because the runners still would have that sharp, almost 90o turn, I don't think this would outflow an aftermarket Trueleo intake manifold, but I think it would outflow a stock Fiero intake manifold, and look much more like a stock Fiero intake manifold than would a Trueleo, presumably important to those who prefer a more stock look.
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