My spec stage 3 with 5,000 or so miles on it slips once in awhile. It mostly will slip in 4th gear when it decides to. I can tare it up for a few weeks and then it will slip once, so I take it easy for a few days, then back to abuse, etc. I'm really surprised it performs as well as it does. I'm wondering who is running the stg5 clutch with this kind of power/torque. I know Jncomutt was having the same problem as me (stg3+) and has decided go automatic. I would hate to invest in another clutch to have it just slip again.
As for the Tilton, I don't know of anyone who has one in a Fiero application. Try PM'ing Will about specifics. I think he's done more research into the Tilton clutches than anyone else.
[This message has been edited by AkursedX (edited 02-26-2010).]
As for the Tilton, I don't know of anyone who has one in a Fiero application. Try PM'ing Will about specifics. I think he's done more research into the Tilton clutches than anyone else.
I know I have seen a picture of one off a SD duke.
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06:33 AM
Jeremy@SPEC Member
Posts: 24 From: Birmingham, AL Registered: Oct 2007
Having spent a decent amount of time in both our Stage 5 and 7.25" mini-twin clutches there are differences. In truth, I don't mind a stage 5 at all. It uses a full-faced sintered-iron disc material and though it isn't intended to be a "street" clutch there are countless people that use these on the street everyday. Keep in mind that sintered-iron has a very high friction coeffecient and that it is completely metallic. This means that it will make some noise during engagement...which is normal for this type disc. As with any clutch, the more you slip it the faster it wears...so be quicker out of the pedal in an effort to induce as much life as possible.
7.25" mini-twins also have their positive's and negatives. Generally speaking they have very low inertia which can affect the way the car responds from low RPM. This lack of mass also means that they can be a bit tricky to drive on the street for some folks. If you want a true bolt in a go option the Stage 5 is the ticket...and it is less than the mini-twin to boot. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
7.25" mini-twins also have their positive's and negatives. Generally speaking they have very low inertia which can affect the way the car responds from low RPM. This lack of mass also means that they can be a bit tricky to drive on the street for some folks. If you want a true bolt in a go option the Stage 5 is the ticket...and it is less than the mini-twin to boot. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
Says SPEC who wouldn't build me a twin disk set up. I dealt with someone else at SPEC (DN), who really pushed the 3+ and Superclamp. Price wasn't an issue at the time, but they insisted the 3+ was the right choice. I bought the 3+ and superclamp and it SLIPPED. I tore everything apart for them sent them photos and they told me my parts were contaminated (not the case). A few weeks later I dynoed my car at 519hp @ 5400rpm, 505 tq @ 3800rpm. This was on a Dyno Dynamics loaded dyno, and it actually spun the tires. (I have crappy michelin all-seasons) To their credit, I told them I'd be making 550hp/500tq, and clearly I'm making close to these numbers at the wheels, and moreso at the crank. Maybe they didn't want to leave room for improvement, maybe they were just trying to save me money, idk. I needed a big dog clutch, and their recommendation was not the correct choice. I perhaps should have executed some consumer sense before the purchase, but just went with it. I should have raised concerns of possibly making more power in the future, and I don't think they should have sold me a clutch that was 'borderline' for what my power expectations were at the time. Customer service was nothing but a joke and to think after spending $600 with no questions asked, they would have been a bit more willing to work with me on getting a new disc, even if it meant keeping my current plate. (The setup had around 2500 or so miles on it at the time iirc).
BTW, the reason they wouldn't sell me the twin disc was because it wasn't cost effective and it didn't fit in the bell. I guess they somehow found a way to make their stuff smaller.
Consider a clutchnet disc. They will come on and say they're cheap foreign junk, but I've had failures with both companies, and clutchnet customer service was a lot better to work with.
Having spent a decent amount of time in both our Stage 5 and 7.25" mini-twin clutches there are differences. In truth, I don't mind a stage 5 at all. It uses a full-faced sintered-iron disc material and though it isn't intended to be a "street" clutch there are countless people that use these on the street everyday. Keep in mind that sintered-iron has a very high friction coeffecient and that it is completely metallic. This means that it will make some noise during engagement...which is normal for this type disc. As with any clutch, the more you slip it the faster it wears...so be quicker out of the pedal in an effort to induce as much life as possible.
7.25" mini-twins also have their positive's and negatives. Generally speaking they have very low inertia which can affect the way the car responds from low RPM. This lack of mass also means that they can be a bit tricky to drive on the street for some folks. If you want a true bolt in a go option the Stage 5 is the ticket...and it is less than the mini-twin to boot. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
Jeremy, What kind of mileage is expected from a stage 5? Is it going to chatter like a jackhammer?
My SPEC 5 disc will be going in after the Daytona show. My SPEC 3+ can't hold too much NOS.. Not too worried about streetability with 200 ft/lbs available off idle. I do believe the slipping clutches are the saving grace of most trannies and that the SPEC 5 will be their Kryptonite.
------------------ 87 GT Tilt Clip-Widebody-RamAir-Fastback-GlassHatch Powered by SBC 383 6-speed w/ NOS Build Thread Goals in Life: 1. Get Married..........Check! 2. Build Dream Car..........Check! 3. Get Wife to Come Back...
Twin disk clutches are typically great in terms of street manners.
Where does one buy these quartermaster and or tilton clutches?
You can't buy direct from QuarterMaster, but they will answer technical questions, and give you distributor name closest to you. In Michigan their distributor is Lane Automotive 8300 Lane Drive, Watervliet, MI 49098, contact phone 800-772-5266.
I run the QM 7.25 Pro Series double disk setup with racing metallic disk, their strongest pressure plate, it is streetable. There are also organic disk's available, but they are fairly easy to glaze, and mileage life is only about 12-15,000 miles.
This is a very pricey setup, but it doesn't slip in any gear.
Note: You cannot package the " triple disk setup" within the Fiero Transmission, just in case you're thinking about it.
Im running the spec 4 clutch right now, im not making all that much power right now. Prob 340hp and 390 ft/lb. I destroyed the centerforce one that archie gives you in about 3500 miles. the slip was retarted and it got to the point that i could not put it in gear lol. But ya i been using stage 4 clutch now for about half a year and so far no slip, it chatters like **** when you launch and **** , but thats what you get for an unsprung clutch.
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06:42 AM
California Kid Member
Posts: 9541 From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan Registered: Jul 2001
Im running the spec 4 clutch right now, im not making all that much power right now. Prob 340hp and 390 ft/lb. I destroyed the centerforce one that archie gives you in about 3500 miles. the slip was retarted and it got to the point that i could not put it in gear lol. But ya i been using stage 4 clutch now for about half a year and so far no slip, it chatters like **** when you launch and **** , but thats what you get for an unsprung clutch.
Typically " chatter " is created from untrue or mis-aligned contact surfaces, I'm not having any chatter issues with the QM double disk set - up.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 03-04-2010).]
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08:09 AM
joshh44 Member
Posts: 2166 From: Nanaimo, B.C, Canada Registered: Aug 2007
whats the difference between a sprung hub clutch and a solid hub clutch?? from some sites iv been on. the solid ones seem to be cheaper.. are they harsh on your drivetrain?
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10:39 AM
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7410 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
Im running the spec 4 clutch right now, im not making all that much power right now. Prob 340hp and 390 ft/lb. I destroyed the centerforce one that archie gives you in about 3500 miles. the slip was retarted and it got to the point that i could not put it in gear lol. But ya i been using stage 4 clutch now for about half a year and so far no slip, it chatters like **** when you launch and **** , but thats what you get for an unsprung clutch.
I have been running my unsprung Stage 4 for over two years (8K+ miles) now and I have no chatter at all (since new). Except for the very stiff PP pedal the clutch engages very smooth and quick. I'm really pleased with it and it holds the 366 RWTQ my engine produces
Here is how it looks.
[This message has been edited by Alex4mula (edited 03-04-2010).]
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11:28 AM
California Kid Member
Posts: 9541 From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan Registered: Jul 2001
whats the difference between a sprung hub clutch and a solid hub clutch?? from some sites iv been on. the solid ones seem to be cheaper.. are they harsh on your drivetrain?
If your running over 400 HP/Torque you aren't going to find a sprung hub that will package and hold up in our transverse application. Even the high performance sprung hub disk's will tear out the centers, or you'll blow the spring out.
Of course solid hubs are more harsh, there's nothing to absorb some of the energy upon loading, all the energy goes directly to the tires. So you don't do foolish things like reeving the engine to 5 grand and dumping the clutch if you have sticky tires.
I have been running my unsprung Stage 4 for over two years (8K+ miles) now and I have no chatter at all (since new). Except for the very stiff PP pedal the clutch engages very smooth and quick. I'm really pleased with it and it holds the 366 RWTQ my engine produces
Here is how it looks.
I have only had my new clutch for about 600 miles so i have not fully broken in the clutch but i guess the chatter will go away. What kind of motor you using your clutch behind?
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09:09 PM
PFF
System Bot
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7410 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
I have only had my new clutch for about 600 miles so i have not fully broken in the clutch but i guess the chatter will go away. What kind of motor you using your clutch behind?
Is a heavily modified 355 with TPI induction. Mine never chattered. Not even during break-in. Hope your chatter goes away soon.
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09:47 PM
Mar 5th, 2010
ClayTonto Member
Posts: 524 From: White, GA, USA Registered: Dec 2008
The chatter seems to be less inherit with larger low end torque engines. The 383 SBC smooths out the high frictiom clutch better than my old 3800sc w/ stage 4. I suppose the larger rotating mass is what causes this. I had to be more conscious with the friction material with not alot of torque right off idle.
