Hey guys i am working on redoing an 84 fiero and in need to replace the rear chassis from the firewall back pretty much. Any suggestions other than cutting one off of another fiero and graft it in. I am very skilled with a mig welder so welding is not a problem. The one downfall about where I live is there are no metal shops around here to buy steel tubing.

Get your tubing here, delivered to your door.

I had seen that site a while ago and forgot what the address was thanks alot.
Any ideas on the best way to attach it to the firewall. I'm afraid of buckeling the firewall where everything will be mounted. im thinking of using 4x8 tubing for the main frame rails running back and then build the rest with 2x2 tubing. Wall thickness of .188

Any body I really need some info.

The rear chassis attaches to the nice meaty steel that forms the B-pillars, not the firewall directly. You should be alright to weld to it, just don't go overboard with the welds and overheat things or you could be doing a lot of straightening

Thanks.

Can't you find another spaceframe? It would be a lot cheaper (& easier) to swap out your good parts onto a non-rusty spaceframe if one is available. I have two here - the Indy & my helper's '86 that we're parting out. But of course it'd cost about $500 to have one delivered - unless I can catch one of the guys going that way with an empty trailer.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

If God has a plan, it's backfired!

I already have this one and figure just modify it a little to keep another fiero from meeting a rusty end in a scrap yard. I prefer to save cars rather than junk them and im great with structural design and fabricating. Plus I enjoy a little challenge.

quote Originally posted by MaverickFiero84: I already have this one and figure just modify it a little to keep another fiero from meeting a rusty end in a scrap yard. I prefer to save cars rather than junk them and im great with structural design and fabricating. Plus I enjoy a little challenge.

Yeah I'm big on saving cars: you should see what I've rebuilt in the past. But I've learned that it doesn't pay to get carried away. The problem with rebuilding a rusty car, is you have to deal with the rust EVERYWHERE.
But if just the back is rusty, & you have a LOT of time, it's not a big thing to rebuild everything from the firewall back. A good rule of thumb is, where ever you weld tubing to sheetmetal (like the spaceframe) weld a 1/8" thick plate that covers at least 1/2" around the tubing.
I'm currently in the middle of a major project: a '90 VW Cabriolet (think Rabbit convertible) that I'm making mid-engine using '88 Fiero running gear/suspension & a SBC. I have about 400 hours in it so far. I've replaced everything from the front firewall forward, & everything in the rear seat area from where the floorboard kicks up for the rear seat to the trunklid, & out to the inner sheetmetal on each side. I've welded in 79 pieces of metal 1/8" or thicker (including gussets), & nearly 60 pieces of sheetmetal. It's really shaping up, though. I hope to have a webpage for it soon, so folks can track the progress.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

DO NOT TOUCH THE TREUM!

What do you mean the Treum

quote Originally posted by MaverickFiero84: What do you mean the Treum I'm actually thinking about since i have to replace the rockers with 2x4 steel tubing that i might redo the floor like stock but with steel tubing and sheetmetal that will tie both sides together and still have the center hump that the gastank is in. This will yeild a stronger floor that can be jacked up anywhere and will still have the front to back rigidity that the tunnel incorporates in the stock floor but stronger. if you haven't figured it out yet I do alot of metal fab. and have years of experience building custom cars. Its basically my life when im not working as there was never much to do where i live and grew up.

Treum: you know that molding that goes down the side of the car... you have to say it with a (very) southern drawl (it's a "Squidbillies" thing).

I would go with 1 1/2" x 3" (x 1/8") at the most for the rocker. That'll give you plenty of strength without taking up so much room.
Obviously building custom cars is my life, too. Do you have photos of your past efforts online anywhere? Here's some of mine:
http://angelonearth.net/carparts/ (ZX at bottom - now sold)
http://angelonearth.net/me.html (blue Cabriolet - now sold, & blue street baja)
http://AngelOnEarth.net/Cabrio/Cabrio.html (Same Cabriolet after deer damage repair, & hood for the V8 Cab)
http://AngelOnEarth.net/ZCar/ZCar.html (V8 Z car - in progress)
http://AngelOnEarth.net/Cabrio/BlackCabriolet.html (Modded image of a black Cabriolet - similar to my plans for the mid-engine 300HP 283c.i. Cabriolet)
http://AngelOnEarth.net/photo.html (Annie the off-road baja bug & some other photos)
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-1-061103.html (The black custom Fiero - about halfway down the page -unfinished)
All my homepage pages are WAY out of date....
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Somehow I got spinal meningitis, injectin' all that hair spray in my spine.
It's a super-cheeeap waaaay to party, if you aim to kill some brain cells & some time. (one of the intro songs for Squidbillies)

Measurements for the rear upper frame rail is here:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060811-2-068409.html

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1986GT 4-speed DOHC and 1987GT Auto

Thanks for the info i was planing on using .188 wall tubing for the build. I do have some pics of the cars i worked on somewhere on my computer here i will have to remember what folder they are in as I have over 500,000 files on my computer. When i get started I will take as many pictures as I can for anyone else that may have a rough body but good welding skills and the determination.