My car has and idle or 1500 RPM. I have seen things on some forums and in some manuals about this being a EGR valve problem. I started my car and let it get to running temp and then gave the car gas as I felt for the EGR movement. There was no movement... So then I got a Vacuum pump and put vacuum on the EGR the car Stalled. Now what is the next step? I asked about a Vacuum control solenoid at the auto parts store and they can't get one. what should my next step be before I try and buy a vacuum control solenoid?

The EGR valve won't give you a high idle. If its stuck closed the engine will idle normally. If its stuck open it will stall the engine as you proved.

Its probably the egr "TUBE" which is a metal pipe that connects the egr valve to the intake manifold. A crack in the tube will definitely cause a high idle.

Grab a 10 mm wrench and pull the tube. Hold thumb on one end and blow in the other. If there's a crack you'll be the 1st to know.

Spoon

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Two yeast spent their entire life "about 2 days" discussing what the purpose of life could be and not once did they even come close to the fact that they were making champagne. Quoted by: Unknown

Thanks I will look into that tomorrow. Does that EGR tube crack very often, and is there a place you can get those?

quote Originally posted by Iamlost22185: Thanks I will look into that tomorrow. Does that EGR tube crack very often, and is there a place you can get those?

Fiero Store has the tube. Probably 100 bucks. Ask on the forum here and someone may have a used one.
Mine was cracked at 53K miles.
Also it does'nt take a torx to remove the IAC. My error. You need a box or open end wrench. Big one.

Spoon

EGR TUBE REPLACEMENT PN 67017 AT FIERO STORE SORRY NO PRICE ON THAT THERE IS ALSO A GUY ON E-BAY THAT SELLS AN ALTERNATE REPLACEMENT GOOD LUCK
FRANK IN TPA

High idle is usually a vacuum leak. With a fire extinguisher at the ready, spray throttle body cleaner at the various vacuum hoses, listen for a change in engine rpm. Start with the EGR tube area. Fiero Store is a great source for the tube, mention that you're a member of the forum and get 10% off most non-GM parts.

I would also pull the engine trouble codes, the forum link is here....
https://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes

Pull the idle air control off and clean it up including the port, make sure the electrical connector is clean, be careful, older plastic parts can get brittle. Alway use sensor safe cleaner so you don't fry other sensors.

Double check your air filter, a clogged filter will act like a choke. Double check the base engine timing, you'll need to ground out the ADL jusdt like you do when pulling codes.

After you do all of that, pull the negative battery cable to clear the ECM, take it for a drive over 35 mph so the ECM will re-learn the idle characteristics.

I'm guessing that we're talking about a V-6 here.

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jetman
Silver 86 SE 2M6 4-speed, with "check wallet light"
Now fortified with 8 essential slices of bacon goodness

Coolant temp sensor will also cause high idle because it will keep the engine from going into closed loop. Did you check for codes?

I installed the Fiero Store Flexible Braided Steel EGR tube.

http://www.fierostore.com/P...rowse.aspx?d=215&p=1

To my opinion it is a perfect solution.
I have my 1987 V6 Fiero for 15 years and had to repair the original EGR Tube crack several times because it is too hard.
So YES, it's worth investing 100box in this flexible braided steel tube!

Hope this helps

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Bernard
Fiero V6 GT 1987 (Manual)

quote Originally posted by Iamlost22185: Thanks I will look into that tomorrow. Does that EGR tube crack very often, and is there a place you can get those?

Ohhhhh yes and it happens when you least expect it mine went while the car was parked and turned off. Just got back home from my friends house than had to run out again and it broke.. I had the same problem as stated but I do not beleave it is your EGR tube. When the EGR tub goes it has a habbit of sending RPM's to very unhealthy hights. Mine went on me last year around this time and it shot my RPM's up to 4000 as soon as you started it. I think your culprit is in the smaller vac lines If you have cruise contoll check out all your hoses on there. I just recentley removed part of my cruise controll on my newer 87GT and it calmed my RPM's down a bit. The lines to the can on the cruise controll get very brittle over time and tend to get cracks in them.

[This message has been edited by pontiackid86 (edited 10-29-2009).]

ok I have the codes here. code 24, code 33, and code 32. I know my EGR isn't stuck because I used a vacuum pump and it stalled the car. The code 33 came up because i was checking vacuum lines and broke that plastic hose leading to the map sensor..... Man the car did not like that it died moments after that. I have no clue why the code 24 came on my RPM gauge and MPH gauge both work.
There is a EGR vacuum control solenoid on the car how often do those go out and is there a way to test it?

For what it's worth, this is what I would try. Fix the plastic hose that you broke, you know, cut it back and use a longer rubber hose on it so it is secure and won't be a vacuum issue. Disconnect the negative battery cable, wait a minute, then connect it back up to the battery, this will clear the ECM. I would start the car and let it warm up, sure it will idle high like it had been for you, go ahead and search for the vacuum leaks while the engine is running like I mentioned with a can of throttle body cleaner, start at the EGR tube first.

check out = code32 answers,egr solenoid ,,buddy craigg ........... just type this into search at the righttop of tech excellent info about EGR solenoid,, I almost understand it from this post ,, OUTSTANDING !! better read than tom clancy novel

Update I took the intake off and checked all the plastic line and replaced all rubbers. I also checked my EGR tube for crack. There all the lines and EGR tube checked out good. I but new gaskets in on the intake, EGR tube, and throttle body. I was going to take the IAC out and clean it but I couldn't get a wrench to it and I didn't have a socket that would fit it. I did take the sensor cleaner and shot some in the hole in the throttle body where the IAC is. After I did this I started the car and it was running 2000 rpms then it got warm and it dropped to 1400 rpms. I was not able to check the lines back on the cruise control.

Does anyone know it you do use a socket on the IAC?

What would you guys say to try next?

Thanks, Thomas

If you are looking for leak, I have a simple way.
You take an hairspray and you spray on any potential leak area.
If there is a leak, your engine idle will slow down.

This is a simple trick but it does work. The only thing you have to do is clean your engine afteward ;o)

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Bernard
Fiero V6 GT 1987 (Manual)

Place your finger over the IAC hole at the throttle body with the engine running. The car should die immediately. If yes then suspect the IAC motor not closing all the way. If no then look elsewhere. Make sure the throttle plate is closing all the way. A bad throttle cable could cause the throttle plate to hang open.

Another vacuum leak detection method is an unlit propane torch. You crack open the bottle just a tad and place the unlit nozzle near suspect areas to see if the engine RPM's go up as the vacuum will suck in the propane and the engine will burn it. A little goes a long way. Don't open it all the way for an extended time and have it blow up in your face.

In search of an elusive vacuum leak, I have disconnected and capped off all vacuum hoses on the engine and worked back out from that point, thoroughly checking as I reconnected each one back up.

I will try putting my finger over the hole for the IAC. I have taken all the plastic vacuum lines off my car now and have Stainless steel lines on my car. I have all new rubber hook ups and clamps on most of the rubber lines. I have not checked the cruise control lines on the wall next to the trunk.

I did Find a rubber hose that I didn't like very much. it is located behind the distributor and there is a metal pipe that connects it to the engine this rubber hose is only about 2.5 inches long but it seemed to be very loose. Could that be my leak there?

Also would the cruise control system have anything to do with my vacuum leak?

If the engine died imediately after putting your finger over the hole, then look at your IAC being suspect and not working properly. I would clean off IAC and the port thoroughly and reinstall, ckeck your results. Clear the ECM by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute, recoonect it and fire up the engine. Take the car for a drive if you can over 35 mph steady speed after it is fully warmed up. The ECM will re-learn the idle characteristics.

Ok do I use a socket to get the IAC out? and if So do you happen to know the Size? When I figure that out i will do that.. I will let you guys know how that goes.

[This message has been edited by Iamlost22185 (edited 10-31-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Iamlost22185: Ok do I use a socket to get the IAC out? and if So do you happen to know the Size? When I figure that out i will do that.. I will let you guys know how that goes.

anyone happen to have any info on this?

I use a big adjustable wrench on the IAC on my duke.

quote Originally posted by johnt671: I use a big adjustable wrench on the IAC on my duke.

X 2

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1984 Fiero SE

quote Originally posted by johnt671: I use a big adjustable wrench on the IAC on my duke.

Only way yo do it without cussin it out.


Ill also add be careful working near your distributer. I learned the hard way that the slightest tap can off set there timing.

[This message has been edited by pontiackid86 (edited 11-02-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Spoon: The EGR valve won't give you a high idle. If its stuck closed the engine will idle normally. If its stuck open it will stall the engine as you proved. Its probably the egr "TUBE" which is a metal pipe that connects the egr valve to the intake manifold. A crack in the tube will definitely cause a high idle. Grab a 10 mm wrench and pull the tube. Hold thumb on one end and blow in the other. If there's a crack you'll be the 1st to know. Spoon

it wont... i replaced the EGR and the EGR vaccuum line, and i still have an idle of 2500

quote Originally posted by grkboy707: it wont... i replaced the EGR and the EGR vaccuum line, and i still have an idle of 2500

I thought you said EGR was fine, you replaced the vacuum line but are you positive that the EGR tube is ok?

Edit.... Look at that tube again, also look at your base ignition timing, look at your temp senders.

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 11-02-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Iamlost22185: Update I took the intake off and checked all the plastic line and replaced all rubbers. I also checked my EGR tube for crack. All the lines and EGR tube checked out good. I but new gaskets in on the intake, EGR tube, and throttle body. I was going to take the IAC out and clean it but I couldn't get a wrench to it and I didn't have a socket that would fit it. I did take the sensor cleaner and shot some in the hole in the throttle body where the IAC is. After I did this I started the car and it was running 2000 rpms then it got warm and it dropped to 1400 rpms. I was not able to check the lines back on the cruise control. Does anyone know it you do use a socket on the IAC? What would you guys say to try next? Thanks, Thomas

Update.... I replaced all the plastic vacuum lines with stainless steel lines. replaced a rubber connection that comes from the Throttle body to the motor (it sets right under where the EGR tube connects to the intake). I also too some time and checked all my spark plug gaps. I also shot some more sensor cleaner down the hole of the throttle body where the IAC is because I still have not found a socket that will fit. I then took the ground cable off my battery and waited. After I put it back on I took some Carb Cleaner and started testing the vacuum on all the hoses. They seemed fine because nothing changed. When the car was warm I took a Drive down the Highway at 65mph for 20miles one way. My car still idles at 1400 RPMs when warm. I did do a test with the IAC by putting my finger over the hole to the IAC. The car died instantly! So I'm guessing the IAC could still be dirty or its just bad, but would the IAC make my car idle at 1400RPMs if it was bad?

quote Originally posted by jetman: I thought you said EGR was fine, you replaced the vacuum line but are you positive that the EGR tube is ok? Edit.... Look at that tube again, also look at your base ignition timing, look at your temp senders.

nope, i completely replaced the EGR and tube. it was an ordeal, but i did, and there are no leaks... its some sort of computer problem

Ground out the ADL and reset the base ignition timing 10* BTDC after the car is warmed up then I would look at the temperature sensors that the ECM looks at to control idle, the MAT sensor and temp sensor. Pull off the air cleaner snorkle off the throttle body, make sure the throttle plate is fully closed too. Take the car for another drive, then pull any codes.

Ok everyone, Iamlost22185 is almost there, what are we missing here?!!

Today I finally got the IAC out and cleaned it and the area where is screws in. So here is the run down of what I have done

Replaced all plastic vacuum lines with Stainless steel lines. Replaced all rubber fittings, Cleaned my K&N air filter, Checked EGR Tube, New gasket on throttle body and upper intake. Checked all spark plug gaps

Is there something else that may effect my RPMS they are still at 1500RPMs

This is a 86 2.8L V6 just for those that may not know.

Thanks, Thomas

quote Originally posted by Iamlost22185: Today I finally got the IAC out and cleaned it and the area where is screws in. So here is the run down of what I have done Replaced all plastic vacuum lines with Stainless steel lines. Replaced all rubber fittings, Cleaned my K&N air filter, Checked EGR Tube, New gasket on throttle body and upper intake. Checked all spark plug gaps Is there something else that may effect my RPMS they are still at 1500RPMs This is a 86 2.8L V6 just for those that may not know. Thanks, Thomas

I think my RPM problem has something to do with my Tach. I am thinking its a bad connection with either a ground or maybe just the back of the Tach.. If you have any Ideals send them my way I'm going to try and figure it out but any input would help. because I'm not the greatest with Electric issues

Thanks, Thomas

So you think the engine is not really idling high?

I've had a tach go bad. I just bought a used one from the Fiero Factory.

The tach filter could be the issue too. You can bypass it by unplugging the connector and connecting the wires directly. Rodney Dickman sells a replacement too.

It's the little silver metal cylinder by the coil.

[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 11-09-2009).]

Ok well the 1500 RPM is no longer my biggest issue!!! I took my IAC sensor out and cleaned it and the Throttle body and reinstalled it. I was getting 26MPG now I am only getting 18-19mpg. Good thing I am working at O'reilly. That IAC isn't a cheap part but what part is for any car. I hope this will take care of my Problem.

Thought your high idle would of been solved by now. Anyway if its still an issue give this a try. My 2.8 did the same thing some years ago.

Warm up engine to operating temp. Shut off engine & unscrew the ATS "air temp sensor" from the air cleaner canister. Reconnect the plug after removing the sensor.

Grab a wash cloth and run it under hot water as hot as you can stand it. Start your engine and wrap the hot cloth around the sensor.

Let it run for a minute and see if the idle settles down. If it does then replace the sensor. If you have a friend with a 2.8 that idles properly just do a swap.

You can also do a rough test on the sensor using an ohm meter. With sensor out of vehicle and disconnected put the probes of an ohm meter on the 2 pins in the sensor. with this connection apply warm air or use the hot wash cloth method to warm it up and watch the meter needle. It should swing in a direction from wherever it was.

Then apply cold air " I dipped mine in ice cold water" and the meter needle should swing in the opposite direction. There is a manual that gives what the ohm reading should be versus the temperature applied to the sensor. Forgot what manual.

Also make sure the sensor is clean and not clogged with dirt.

Now for plan "B": Do this no matter how the sensor checks out.

On your negative battery cable there is a skinny black wire that leads to a small screw near the battery tray. Make sure its connected and even if it is remove the screw and clean the end of that wire terminal til its shinny and clean the metal area where the screw was. If the screw is rusty just replace it and tighten real good. Apply some silicone lube on and over the screw area to prevent rust.

Next go to Napa or Autozone and find a braided ground strap about 15" long with bolt hole in each end. Connect this from a solid bolt on your engine to the deck lid hinge bracket. This will give you a good body to engine ground.

Between replacing my ATS and adding a good ground my idle went down to 850 and hasn't been a problem since.

Good luck.

Spoon

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Two yeast spent their entire life "about 2 days" discussing what the purpose of life could be and not once did they even come close to the fact that they were making champagne. Quoted by: Unknown

Did you do the IAC reset procedure?

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Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

i was thinking. you may have a bad throttle body. i have three fiero's. all gt's. my 87gt gave me problems like yours is doing. after everthing else was tryed. i replaced the throttle body. motor came down from 1700 rpm's to 1100 rpm's. then i seen a little upside down cap on top-middle of throttle body. punched it out with a nail. inside is a jet valve. used a screwdriver to turn it. with car warmed up and running. reset my idle to 900 rpm's. know it idles just fine. i don't know if this will help, but it worked for my car. good luck with yours.

quote Originally posted by jetman: High idle is usually a vacuum leak. With a fire extinguisher at the ready, spray throttle body cleaner at the various vacuum hoses, listen for a change in engine rpm.

CO2 Fire extinguishers dont make a nasty mess that takes months to clean out of the engine bay. Get one of those. the cheapies they sell for cars or home are powder type. They will make a mess that will stay with the car for decades.