He didn't need written consent. That battle was over before I realized it had began, unfortunately. Thanks for the advice, though, Eddie.
When I didn't have tools and a garage I made mistakes like saying "I need the car fixed, do what it takes to get it fixed" and "Fix the car right"... Sometimes those blanket statements bit me in the butt, but you learn lessons (if you don't then shame on you). If this guy was doing stuff for cash after hours and didn't write-up a bill with signatures... It makes it harder to go to court. Seems to me it would be better if the guy just makes the situation right (assuming he is somehow at fault). No paperwork, cash under the table, verbal communications equals who knows what is true... Plus, do you spend $500 on a lawyer to get $800 back?
quote
Originally posted by MadDanceSkillz: Hey, Brian. I'm hoping my oil pump being bad was just a coincidence. My oil light would come on occasionally before, and that was when the car was running a mix between 10w-30 and 15W-40. The mechanic filled it with 5W-30. That's most of the reason I'm holding out any hope. I've e-mailed back and forth with Ryan and he does seem like a nice guy. He was extremely helpful and took time to answer my questions even though I told him I could not afford his services. David
Just curious who put the oil in the car? I think since you bought the car in Dayton, you should have put enough miles on it to do an oil change (I think in your tire thread you put 3,000 miles on the tires). Did a shop change the oil for you? You should drain the oil and see if there is any metal shavings in it.
Not trying to give you false hope, but maybe putting heavier conventional oil back in it might help... In my 2000 Camry I switched from conventional oil to synthetic blend and the engine got what sounded like a tapping in the top end. I drove the car to the dealership and asked the service guy if my car was okay. First thing out of his mouth was get rid of that synthetic oil and put conventional oil back in it when I change the oil. I was shocked since I didn't tell him what was wrong, but I did put conventional oil back in the car and it has been quiet ever since. In your case it doesn't explain the lack of oil pressure...
If the motor is toast then it's toast and one more start isn't going to change that. I would setup a digital camera on a tripod and record video of starting/running the car as long as I dared to. I would even throw in a couple revs of the motor to try capturing the sound and noise. That would allow me to rewatch the video and try to pinpoint it without starting the car over and over to diagnose. It wouldn't hurt to post it here for a better opinion...
Good idea on the video, Brian. And a big + for you, by the way. Seems like you're always helpful in my threads. It is very appreciated.
If I get it back and my "Harold" (The drunken but ridiculously experienced mechanic) and he tells me it is toast, it very likely is, but I'll take a video of the sound anyway.
It may very well have had a bad engine when I got it. The previous owner told me he did an oil change right before I got it and I remember it being pretty thick when I changed it. But, he seemed like an honest guy and if it was bad I doubt he knew it. You can always be wrong, though.
David
[This message has been edited by MadDanceSkillz (edited 08-21-2009).]
ahhh, the plot thickens ! Or "the OIL anyway !" the previous owner may have been hiding bad bearings with the thick oil ! When it got changed to SYN, it got cleaned out & the knocking returned ! Either," pull the pan to inspect the bearings", "Change the oil to 20-50 with some STP Added & see what happens", Or "pull it & do the engine swap". I think you'll find Pieces of stuff clogging the screen, Bad main & rod bearings & the only thing "holding it together " was the "thick Oil" or whatever it was that got drained out. all of this will only satisfy your curiosity, Count on the engine swap.
Well, the Saga continues. After some 20w-50 oil and a couple cans of STP, the engine ran about 30 miles with no audible knocking. Oil pressure also seems great. I'm going to take it by O'Reilly and grab some Lucas oil stabilizer as well. It breathed life into my dying duke a few months ago and kept it going for 4k miles before I sold it with no engine noise. Looks like I have a guy to do my 3800 swap as well. Things are starting to look up. Now let's all hope this engine can hold a few more weeks until I'm ready to swap the 3800 in.
Well, the Saga continues. After some 20w-50 oil and a couple cans of STP, the engine ran about 30 miles with no audible knocking. Oil pressure also seems great. I'm going to take it by O'Reilly and grab some Lucas oil stabilizer as well. It breathed life into my dying duke a few months ago and kept it going for 4k miles before I sold it with no engine noise. Looks like I have a guy to do my 3800 swap as well. Things are starting to look up. Now let's all hope this engine can hold a few more weeks until I'm ready to swap the 3800 in.
Like I said, you never know.........just drive it easy until you are ready for the next step.
Well, the Saga continues. After some 20w-50 oil and a couple cans of STP, the engine ran about 30 miles with no audible knocking. Oil pressure also seems great. I'm going to take it by O'Reilly and grab some Lucas oil stabilizer as well. It breathed life into my dying duke a few months ago and kept it going for 4k miles before I sold it with no engine noise. Looks like I have a guy to do my 3800 swap as well. Things are starting to look up. Now let's all hope this engine can hold a few more weeks until I'm ready to swap the 3800 in.
Remember, that thicker oil is NOT protecting the bearings. It's just making them so you cant hear them. I strongly suggest that you don't get on the throttle or drive it spirited in any way if you want to keep it running as long as possible. When you do that, if there is play in the bearings the rod end will get smashed in to the crank harder and the aluminum bearing will gladly get pounded even thinner. I still am amazed that the crank bearings are aluminum and that they last.
[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 08-22-2009).]
Yeah, I know I'm kind of defeating cancer with painkillers, but if it gets me by for now I can PLAN my engine swap, which was my main obstacle to getting it done right now. Thanks for all the help, guys.
When you changed the oil were there metal shavings in the pan? What did the old mechanic say when you told him that the motor was chattering? I think something is missing from this story.
No metal shavings. We shines an LED light into the INCREDIBLY dirty (For 500 miles) oil and there wasn't anything there. I suppose the engine might not have been knocking, but the oil pressure still isn't incredible. It's about 25 at idle and 40 while driving.
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02:23 AM
Aug 25th, 2009
White 84 SE Member
Posts: 812 From: Chicago, Illinois USA Registered: Nov 2008
I skimmed though the thread. Sounds like you can save that engine. Might take a new crank. Seems like it's overhaul time. If you take on the...winter project.. you'll know if the engine is toast right away by checking specs as per Haynes. If no scoring or broken stuff cool recon! If real bad cool swap! Isnt life great! Sounds like your out a transport for a bit.
------------------ 84 Duke, Holley TBI, Manual Trans 4.10, CompuCam, White
[This message has been edited by White 84 SE (edited 08-25-2009).]
It's actually running better and better every time I drive it. I know it isn't going to last forever, but it should give me the needed time to find all the necessary components for my 3800 swap.
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07:59 PM
White 84 SE Member
Posts: 812 From: Chicago, Illinois USA Registered: Nov 2008
Eh, I don't give a dead moose's last shat about this engine. As soon as I have the money, which may be very soon, a 4.9l is coming. Oil pressure still lights up at idle. All that's keeping this thing alive is additives at this point. lol.
[This message has been edited by MadDanceSkillz (edited 09-04-2009).]
