quote Originally posted by MstangsBware: This doesn't apply to our application.

btw, thanks for answering my question. I didn't think it did. But just wanted to be clear

quote Originally posted by zi_gravedigger: Back to the topic of the cam- I picked up a valve spring compressor from Sears, and a compression test kit (mainly for the spark plug port adapter to apply compressed air to the cylinders) I'm going to try to pick up an engine lift tonight. Update on that later/tomorrow. I'll have to borrow an air compressor... I hope someone has one. Any other way to change valve springs if I dont have compressed air? (edit... can't afford the big compressor I'd like to get, and hate the tiny ass ones. Refuse to buy. Maybe rental?)

That hose in the compression tester might not work. I say this cause last week when I was changing springs out on a motor I grabbed my comprerssor tester and was going to use it. I did about 3 springs and relized the valve kept wanting to drop when I was installing the new spring. Well I looked for the other hose I bought for changing springs and found it to use. The hoses for the compression tester has a valve stem setuup in it not allowing the air to pass thru while the other hose is open. Swapped to the other hose and al was good. Look at the hose you have to see if it is going to work before you use it.

quote With the 3.25 if I can hit 300hp at the wheels I'm going to be excited. Any more and I'll be jumping up and down... any less, who gives a damn? I love the car now enough to throw $3000 into a 6 speed swap, and figured while I'm at it the engine deserves a little attention too.

I imagine you would be at 300whp with stock everything and a pulley, for sure if you just bolted on some rockers. The cam setup and a 2.8 will put you around the 350-375 area, with a getrag anyway.

quote Originally posted by MstangsBware: That hose in the compression tester might not work. I say this cause last week when I was changing springs out on a motor I grabbed my comprerssor tester and was going to use it. I did about 3 springs and relized the valve kept wanting to drop when I was installing the new spring. Well I looked for the other hose I bought for changing springs and found it to use. The hoses for the compression tester has a valve stem setuup in it not allowing the air to pass thru while the other hose is open. Swapped to the other hose and al was good. Look at the hose you have to see if it is going to work before you use it.

I checked. You're right. It's got a check valve. Damnit lol. I wonder if I should return it or just keep the thing and add it to my tool collection...

Yesterday the XP cam and springs, rollmaster double and everything else from ZZP came in.

Going out to the garage to put the engine lift together now. I'm afraid I dont have the cord to transfer pic from my camera, so pics will be few and off my cell phone

I'll create a separate thread for that though. Thanks to everyone here who provided info and helped me out.

I got the shifter and shift cables removed, everything from the top disconnected from the engine, and it's raised on the lift/jack stands ready for the cradle drop.

Question- Where can I find a spark plug port adapter? J-23590.... The people at autozone are freakin retarded and have no idea what the hell I'm talking about, and online J-23590 doesn't turn up any results. Also, it says the valve stem seal installer J-42863 isn't required; that a 8mm 1/4 socket will work. Anyone changed the seals this way before?

I didn't use any tool to install my valve stem seals...?

maybe I'll just have to wait til I take it apart to see. I was just curious because of what was written here:

quote Now install the new valve stem oil seal. Place your new oil seals over the stem until the seal begins to contact the valve guide. You can use a Valve Stem Seal Installing Tool (J-42863). Use hand pressure only. Too much force will damage the seal and cause your engine to burn oil. If you don't have the Valve Stem Seal Installer, this can still be done but it will be much harder. Take a quarter inch straight socket driver and put a deep 8 mm socket on the end. Put a little bit of grease on the inside of the valve seal and then slide it down into the seal with your fingers. Now, putting the socket over the valve, carefully apply even pressure to push the seal down into the seat.

http://www.3800pro.com/foru...lation-l67-tech.html

Those don't have me too worried from the sounds of it. I still need to find a way to apply compressed air to the cylinder. Where can I find the spark plug port adapter locally? Does it have a different name?

quote Originally posted by zi_gravedigger: maybe I'll just have to wait til I take it apart to see. I was just curious because of what was written here: http://www.3800pro.com/foru...lation-l67-tech.html Those don't have me too worried from the sounds of it. I still need to find a way to apply compressed air to the cylinder. Where can I find the spark plug port adapter locally? Does it have a different name?

When I changed my springs and valve stem seals, I didn't use any special tools except a deep socket to push on the seals.
Just put some assembly lube on them and press them on.
As for keeping the valves up while you change the springs, just move the cylinder to TDC. You can then rest the valve on the piston. You can also place a piece of curved cardboard between the valve and piston if your worried about it dinging the piston, or the valve doesn't stay up high enough. I didn't need to when I did mine.

[This message has been edited by Dracor (edited 02-05-2009).]