We are just finishing up my air/water setup for my intercooled 3800SC and it was quite easy to mount the Frozenboost FMHE in front of the radiator, i even kept my ac condenser cause im not going to give up my a/c. Heres a couple pics of us mounting it where it is going to stay. It doesnt show it but we made some brackets that bolt to the lower mounting tabs on the core and then we used a 3/16 plate for the top of the core. I am also mounting two 7 inch puller fans so that around town it doesnt have an airflow problem.
No, people say they have heard of a cousin of their friend who has great results with them. There is probably hard data out there somewhere, I just haven't looked hard enough to find it yet.
The reason i made such a comment is because it looks tiny enough to be able to fit without having to do structural modification to the front end of your car.
While water injection works, I have always argued that it can never live up to the gains found in a properly intercooled and proper octane setup (guys on pump gas with tiny intercoolers, have at the meth injection all you want). I dont like the "randomness" that water injection could present... bad pump voltage, line popping off, ect small things that wouldnt happen in an intercooled system that you would see instantly..
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Originally posted by darkhorizon:
I bet you lose power if you run race gas.
are you freaking serious?! You obviously have no grasp of what meth/water injection does. How is there "randomness" with a meth/water setup? It's been proven on sub 8 second cars...perhaps if you were to cobble a kit together it'd be random......there's plenty of failsafes that can be built into a well thought out meth system that will be reliability.com...
how would anyone lose power on race gas? Water/meth injection is a form of chemical intercooling...it's no different than running a larger intercooler....with a large benefit being no presure drop. So water/meth is actually quite the advantage... it doesn't matter what gas anyone uses...water/meth power is made by making the intake charge cooler and denser, as well as being able to advance timing over the normal knock threshold that gas alone would limit you to...
perhaps you should do some more reading before steering people away from proven methods...
[This message has been edited by blacksaleen95 (edited 10-05-2008).]
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10:08 PM
Jan 28th, 2009
pswayne Member
Posts: 1282 From: Lawrenceville, GA USA Registered: Sep 2006
If I remember correctly, for this particular example, the guy had openings behind the wheels that directed air into the trunk. The air went through the intercooler and exited out the engine side of it. I think he may have had a fan or two to help move the air also. I coudl be totally wrong on this, though. If you own the car and see this, please explain your air flow.
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01:46 PM
PFF
System Bot
Austrian Import Member
Posts: 3919 From: Monterey, CA Registered: Feb 2007
How does it get airflow? Doesn't it need an air inlet and outlet? How is the sealed trunk modified to allow for that? Does anybody have more pictures of that setup?
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02:54 PM
Jan 30th, 2009
Austrian Import Member
Posts: 3919 From: Monterey, CA Registered: Feb 2007
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096076.html Water To Air Intercooler (Like On the Cobalt SS)
Uses a heat exchanger, Radiator, Pump and Coolant. The Air charge heat is transferred to a heat exchanger and taken to a radiator by the coolant with a pump. Normally used where space is difficult.
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01:32 PM
Firefighter Member
Posts: 1407 From: Southold, New York, USA Registered: Nov 2004
Use a water / alcohol injection system and forget all the plumbing crap. Aquimist makes the best units out there and they work as well or better than any plumbing and radiator cooling contraption.
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04:23 PM
Feb 2nd, 2009
Austrian Import Member
Posts: 3919 From: Monterey, CA Registered: Feb 2007
Originally posted by Firefighter: Use a water / alcohol injection system and forget all the plumbing crap. Aquimist makes the best units out there and they work as well or better than any plumbing and radiator cooling contraption.
One downside to this is routine maintenance, although it seems a small burden there is the risk of being lazy about it. I compare it to when I was a kid owning a CO2 powered BB pistol and a pump up rifle. Having to buy refills for the pistol took the motivation out of using it eventhough it's rapid fire ability made it a lot more fun to use. The rifle only required ammo and was a lot more dependable and cost effective since you always knew how many times you pumped it and what kind of power you would have. I favor setting and forgetting where possible depending on the benefits.
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Originally posted by Austrian Import: Found some more intercooler info that might be useful:
Great find for data purposes, because that's all that matters in the end, whether the change made an improvement and if it was worth the effort in time and money. It appears however that adding an injection system to the stock setup would have been just as effective. If the spray is placed ahead of the idle air temp sensor it is likely it would cause a lower temp reading by the sensor reducing the amount of timing retard, that combined with its intake air and combustion cooling effects could have about the same effect as the larger intercooler and possibly better as it would offset intercooler heat soak.
Perhaps to get the best overall performance an intercooler and injection should be used together. We could use a good thread on boosted member's intake air temps and power output. My non intercooled air temp at 7 psi is 212 deg and I'm hoping to take 100 deg out of that with an intercooler and injection which should yield a 10% increase in power based on the 1% inverse change per degree of temperature change rule.