I just spent $1400.00 on a sound system and i am not impressed.
I got a 600 watt Fosgate amp and sub-woffer.
The new front speakers run off the reciever.

I got it from E.H.R. in Hamilton, Ontario. They are supposed to be the best.

They said changing the rear speakers behind the seats would be a real pain in the ass.
I went with a sub-woffer that sits behind the drivers seat.

Looking for feed back on a awesom fiero sound system.

wow 1400 for just that??? hmmm they saw you coming...hate to say it but you got ripped..i would be livid if i got charged all that for a pos system....i would go back and demand a refund and have it all taken out...didnt want to replace the rear speakers...wtf ..lazy dicks....that IS what YOU paid them to do right??? upgrade your system...myself i would go to a competing store and show them what they did and ask what they would do to fix it to your specifications....then i would go back and demand it be removed..if they ask why i would reply that i found another shop who IS willing to do what i asked and paid for without any questions or excuses....but thats just me...myself i build my own systems...only person i have to blame then is me...good luck...tim

Other than a 600watt amp - which doesn't mean anything - you didn't give us enough details. And it "sounds terrible" - what does than mean??

What make/model CD player, what front speakers, are you running the stock rears or are they disconnected completely? ...and what subwoofer and type of sub-box??

If they know what they were doing (that's IF) I can't see how it would be all mismatched stuff - although they could have sold you all their "best money makers" though not necessarily great stuff. I'd suspect you're system's sound is unbalanced. Since you're running the front speakers off the deck, they may have sold you a BAD match and they're running underpowered. Trying to run "300 watt" speakers on 20 watts usually doesn't work very well. You likely also have too much bass and it's overpowering everything else. They should be able to fix that by adjusting the gains on the amplifier down, unless you asked for "monster bass".

It may be a good idea to have someone else at another experienced shop or two listen to it. At least they can tell you "what's wrong" and suggest how to "fix" it (likely try to sell you another gadget like an equalizer). But you'll be able to tell us what they say and take it from there.

------------------

3.4L S/C 87 GT www.fierosound.com
2002/2003/2004 World of Wheels Winner &
Multiple IASCA Stereo Award Winner

Rear speaker install isn't that bad:

------------------
www.FieroDomain.com
"If any car is both the parade and the rain, it is the Fiero"

Click For Live Help!

Yep! the sales guy really goofed on this one.
After telling the sales guys this sucks...

He went on to say that he thought my original reciever had more outputs but it doesn't so i will have to upgrade to a newer reciever. That way the amp could have an output to run the front speakers also.

I have 30 days to change equipment.
Since this kid salesman doesn't know what he is talking about, except for comission;
I am asking for my fellow Fiero buddies for advice.
Thanks guys!

With some tools and imagination you can get top components for less then $1000 and do a much better "Fiero customized" setup.
What type of sub-box did they install? I'm sure it's nothing like the boxes people designed here.
Get your refund on their install, do the research here and DIY / get a "Pro" to do it right

The video Xanth posted is great

Specs or model numbers would help to figure out exactly what they did. Before I did my install, I did lots and lots and lots of research. Doing it correctly and selecting components is as much a science as it is personal preference. They probably put 4x10's or 5 1/4's in front, and they probably don't have enough power coming from the headunit, which probably puts out around 20 watts RMS. I was amazed when I switched my 4x10's over from being powered by the headunit to the amplifier, the difference in sound clarity, depth, etc. was increased drastically when they were adequately powered.

Not replacing the rear speakers because 'it's hard' pretty much sums up how reputable these guys are. Shouldn't take more than an hour, and that's being generous.

It sounds like they're running the new front and stock rear speakers off the headunit (if they even hooked up the rears), and the subwoofer is hooked up to what's probably a single channel amp. If the receiver doesn't have enough preouts to run the front speakers, it sounds like a real cheesy headunit, with only a single set of preouts? Mostly sounds like these guys are just real conmen.

------------------

1984 Fiero SE

Just to give people the background, 88GT.FASTBACK has made the "right" choice by going to EHR.
They are the "biggest and best" according to their repeating "Cool" radio ads.



When I lived in Toronto, I passed by their place once and they do impress you with their show room and stock.

Though it's not complicated to replace the speakers and put an amp in a Fiero (What EHR should do without charging big $$), To get GREAT sound in a Fiero most of us chop the firewall, customize round speaker plates and dig under the dash, under the carpet or modify the center console. But if you want GREAT sound in a Fiero you must do that.

That price is WWWWAAAAAYYY out of line. I would take it back and ask for removal and a refund.
Honestly, ordering all parts myself you could put a top of the line system in that car (given the limitations of the cars speaker locations) for alot less than that.
The system in my daughter's eclipse, with a pioneer premier head, R/F 500+w sub amp, 2 kappa 12" subs, 4 caps, and replacement of the 4 speakers with a cobolt amp was just about 1000$. and that is alot more than you will ever be able to put in a fiero without alot of custom installs.

to give you an idea of what it cost for my fiero, the 4 replacement pioneer speakers were about 150$, aftermarket sub box and speaker, 80$, 150w sub amp 75$, replacement sub speaker, 9$. Sanyo cd/mp3 50w/channel head 110$, harness adapter for th GM harness 6$. wiring kit, 20$. totals out at $441. Now I lucked out on the head unit, it has more features than some top end units, and it happens to sound great, most people are amazed at the sound and volume without distortion I can get. Yes it could use more bass, especially compared to a car with a pair of 12" subs, but it can almost make your ears bleed .
for 1400$ I'd be blowing the windows out of the car!
Now there is always some cost for having it done, but if they didn;t do the rear speakers, and given how most of these mass install shops do their work, it sounds like they did about 4 hours work, tops. Around here installs are free or a nominal charge if you buy the whole system there, but I'm sure it;s factored into the price of the unit.I would really go back and ***** til they either made it right at their cost, or take it out and refund your money.

Wish I had the pics handy, but about 6-9 years ago, I posted the install on one of my 88's. I just tried to find it on here, but I am not sure if I put it on this board or one of the car audio sites. in any event, the first thing you have to think about is "what do want, clear crisp sound, or boom boom boom." If you want both, I can talk you though it, that's what I did to my 88. If you want "boom", just throw in a sub, and put an amp to it and call it a day. if you want clarity (sound quality) then EVERYTHING needs to be amplified. Use only amplified sounds, and do NOT use the speaker wires from you AFTER MARKET head unit. DO NOT use anything that came with the car EXCEPT MAYBE the antenna.

My 88 was a head turning, award winning, mobile concert. I suppose I should also let you know that I owned a 12v electronics company at one point in my life....(early to late 90's).....Here's what was done:

I ended up cutting out the glove box, moving the ECM under the drivers seat (Mounted above the carpet to keep it from getting wet from snow and rain.). I custom molded a sealed enclosure that equaled just over 1/2 cube filled with about a 1/2 lb poly. I then refinished the exterior of the box and inserted a JL 10W0. The sub was mounted rear facing with a 5 degree tilt (base out). I used the center console was because I was not going to block the sub with a firewall, and putting the sub in the "stock" location would not have been feasible (10" sub that needed 1 cube of box PLUS displacement).

From there I set up a custom amp rack behind the passengers seat for my amps (Kicker and RF I think I used. or maybe it was the Mac) in any event, I bridged the amp and ran the sub at 2ohms and 300 w. (sub was only 100w). Because I had so much power, I was able to claim clarity over the sub even under 10hrtz. My amp was only up about 1/8 to max. The rack was set into the rear carpet board to allow me to flush mount the amps and hide every single wire while still allowing me to show off my good at competition. (this one went to sound offs)

the other amp was 4 channel, 200w per. I made a custom box for the rear speakers, mounting them with a slight forward/downward projection, using only a B.A. 5 1/4 with the attached 1" tweet. The reason I did the custom mount was to keep from having to remove the molding or the sail panel. I built over "most" of the molding, but my box did cut in just below the headliner, utilizing some of the empty space behind the molding, and giving me a solid place to mount the enclosure. The face of the enclosure was the last part put on (while the box was mounted in the car) then I had to blend the box into the molding.

In the front, I skipped the speaker mounts, and went with custom door molding for another set of Boston Acoustics, but this time I used separates. My mid bass drive was mounted in the door low pointed up and rear. I had a little less room for my foot when I wasn't shifting, but I got used to it pretty quick. The satellite was mounted flush into the top of the front pillar where the molding meets the liner. I chose this spot because it was much easier to aim the tweeter and hide the installation by raising the liner and flushing the tweet with the molding. Completely invisible behind the liner and no cutting.

In the center console, I mounted a simple MTX crossover that handled the signal going to both amps. Again, I flush mounted it into the carpet right under the molding that surrounded the shifter. I could reach down comfortably at any time and increase or decrease the signal going to the front, rear or sub.

In comp, I would finish top 3 for clarity every time I competed. My average DB was mid 150's. Design quality was always one of my highest marks. You could not see one wire, and if you didn't know any better, you wouldn't know the amount of modification that was done to put in the speakers.

If I missed something, or something doesn't make sense, point it out and I will explain, or describe a bit better.

------------------
Myke

PAST: 88 L4 5spd, 84 L4 auto, 88 L4 5spd, 87 L4 auto

Present: 84 L4 4spd, 88 L4 5spd

Future: Tomorrow will tell...

[This message has been edited by Myke (edited 04-06-2008).]

Thanks for the video Xanth!

The biggest problem i am having is with the sales guy that just wants to sell big commision items.

I need to upgrade the audio player that will control my front and rear speakers and also the subwoofer.

I also need a amp to power all this.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

I'm not an audio guru like fierosound, but a good start would be:
- 4 ch amp to power front and rear independently
- Upgrade front and rear
- Mono amp to power 1 sub under the dash / in center console / or 2 subs build in properly behind the seats (try to avoid just putting a box behind the seat, it looks terrible and can be stolen easily)

The $1400 you paid should cover all that and more.
Go over the tiny sales rep, go to his boss and explain to him you are extremely disappointed with the service you've got and if he doesn't correct it you will return it all and go to the competition.

Do your research before and explain to him exactly what you want.

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 04-07-2008).]

quote Originally posted by 88GT.FASTBACK: Fierosound, to update what i got: 1-Fosgate T-600-2 amp. 1-Fosgate 10" shallow 40 ohm sub woofer. 2- hertz 5 1/4 2way front speakers. and audison wiring power kit. They used my origional Duel cd770 player. Nothing was done with the rear speakers. As it sits, the audio player powers the 2 front dash speakers and the amp powers the sub-woffer.

Demand a refund and go somewhere else, these guys are making a KILLING off this install.

quote The biggest problem i am having is with the sales guy that just wants to sell big commision items.

You don't give a damn about his commission, you want a good stereo. If he's more interested in his own bottom line than customer satisfaction, get another salaes rep/installer.

What Mister suggests is pretty much what I would do. Personally I like Alpine and Eclipse products, but it's nearly impossible to find anyone who sells Eclipse, at least out in the boonies.

-4 channel amp for front and rear speakers
-1 channel (mono) amp for sub
-two front speakers, 4x10, 4", or 5 1/4
-two rear speakers, 4x6 for an 86+ Fiero
-headunit with three sets of preouts, iPod adapter would be nice if you have one, or an aux out for some other device
-Sub, under dash or behind passenger seat. Personally I don't see the point to having more than one in a Fiero, but I'm not an expert by any means.

Personally I have two Eclipse 4x10's in the dash, two Eclipse 3.5's in each headrest (now THAT was a PITA install), Rodney's subwoofer under the dash in a Performance Sound housing, an Eclipse 4502 headunit with three 5V preouts, all hooked up to an Alpine 5 channel amplifier. I probably would have spent around $1000 retail for all that, if I hadn't bought them all off eBay, plus installation. You can get good speakers off eBay for around $50 a set, and they're easy to install, the only hard part about the fronts is not cracking the dash.

I can't read this post anymore. I have to get my 2 cents in.... 1400 is too much unless they sold you a JL W7 sub. I don't know how you got a 10 or 12 to fit in the back of the seat with required airspace of .5 to 1 cubic ft. And the depth of the magnet - you must be in the steering wheel.

Wattage isn't clarity. In my truck I was running a 25 watt HCCA orion 2 channel bridged to 1 ohm parallel and it hit hard on (2) JL 12"W5 dual voice coil. The JL are rated for 250 watt. I upgraded to a 250 HCCA which is 50 watts per. I wired it the same way. Now 15 years later I running a 600D orion. 300 per... on the same 12's (Talk about a awesome speaker)

I will say that the little 25 watt amp was the best out of all. This little thing was 1/2 ohm stable. I could run 4 10's of this thing and have it hit.

Anyway..... crossovers and eq's are the way. I would say just by the description you have too much base and no highs like the guy said earlier on this post. Or you have distortion coming out of the dash and rear fill because of no crossover. If your stock speakers are like mine, they are already blown. They are crap and I can't believe that they would think a twenty year old speaker was the way to go.

In my dreaming setup for the Fiero, I would run separates in the dash 3" with a separate tweeter "capped - capacitor" then have a eq to fine tune and eliminate the bass some what. The rear fill will be a 4x6 hooked to the eq. I would then have isobaric 10's shallow depth or JL 8" in a ported box x2 behind the seat... Again, where to find room for airspace. I love amp power so I would find a small 4 channel and a 2 channel. Where to mount them?>

My clarion has a inline processor that is the eq. the radio is rated 45 watts per and it's running (4) 5 1/4 and two tweets no problem. My truck is probably 38 decibels. Hits in the low 32-35 hrz. I have 8" morels in the door too that I forgot to mention with three amps extra battery and a cap.

Bottom line.... That stereo shop sucks. P.S. my trucks boxes are sealed at .48 cubic ft x 2

I went to about 5 places just window shopping for a stereo for the Fiero. I got tons of radically different quotes. (always wanted them in writing with exact model numbers to comparison shop.)

I've heard some crazy suggestions: including putting 4x6's in the front because 4x10's "don't exist anymore." This is really frustrating. (I know 4x10's are not as common anymore, but there are at least 3-4 brands that I know of.) I feel your pain.
I also heard anything from "no amp is needed in such a small car", to put in 3 separate amps. (one front, one rear, one sub) (where would I even put these?)
Some stores wanted to completely ignore the stock locations and leave the speakers where they were, while installing custom kick panels with component speakers.

I found one shop that actually knows what a "FIERO" is and worked on it before. (well the lead installer. Other guys in the same shop had no clue.)

It seems that sales people size you up by the way you look and how much money they think they can extract out of you.

One tip that got drilled into my head since I was a child for any kind of "work done" (be it mechanical, around the house, repairs, mods, etc.) is to ALWAYS GET A SEPARATE itemized list for PARTS & LABOR. Just asking for that makes shops aware that they can't rip you off as easily.

One thing that seems to be common of what I consider better advice from shops is: Deck doesn't matter as much as the amp and speakers from a sound quality perspective. And front speakers should definitely go through an amp (100w was commonly mentioned as a minimum), and rears were strongly recommended to go through an amp for clarity. <--- Fierosound, is this correct from your expertise?

quote Originally posted by Austrian Import: One thing that seems to be common of what I consider better advice from shops is: Deck doesn't matter as much as the amp and speakers from a sound quality perspective. And front speakers should definitely go through an amp (100w was commonly mentioned as a minimum), and rears were strongly recommended to go through an amp for clarity. <--- Fierosound, is this correct from your expertise?

Very true, it depends on the quality of your stuff. I'm only running 4x50 + 2x100 in my GT. (gotta update my website!!!)
//www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040223-1-025672.html

I replaced the old Denon with an Eclipse CD8454 a couple of years ago - just has more features like analyzer and EQ built-in.
//www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050818-6-030319.html

In the 84 I'm working on, I'm only using deck power and a 100 watt amp for the sub like a factory setup. Sounds VERY good to me.
//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/081643.html

Wow, talk about a ripoff...$1400 =O

Sounds like something Best Buy would do, lol...First of all, Fosgate is a good brand, and if you don't like what it sounds like, they probably didn't do something right. If you're looking for audiophile quality...JL Audio sub behind the passenger seat, and component speakers rather than Coaxial. MB Quart and Boston Pro are amazing brands, and you can find them at ebay stores for pretty cheap. For my conquest I'm looking at $330 MB Quart reference components for $85, and a $490 MB Quart 10" sub for $65

If you're running things off your head unit, that's probably where you're getting the bad sound quality. I'm really confused as to how everything cost $1400 and all you got was a sub and amp?!?

What speakers are you using in the dash, and which ones behind the seats?

1. I owned and operated my own 12v store.
2. Amplify the speakers... all of them
3. If you don't want to use the stock speakers (good idea) you can custom mount just about anything you want. 5 1/4 are fine for the rear. (custom mold)
4. Stock speaker locations are the worst. Fronts should be molded elsewhere. Kick panels are great.
5. Amplify the speakers... all of them
6. ONLY USE PREAMP OUTPUTS!!!!! NO speaker wires from the back of the radio.
7. You can easily get the requires airspace for a 10" sub in a Fireo. It's called polyfil in a sealed enclosure. (ignore the other persons question about your sub, smaller subs are very punchy, and it's difficult to resonate at lower frequencies (IE 30hrtz and lower).
9. Amplify the speakers... all of them

Oh and the other part that might interest you, I used to compete with my Fiero.
In the 90's, I would finish top 3 for clarity every time I competed.
My average DB was mid 150's.
Design quality was always one of my highest marks.

One JL10W0 (Sub)
Boston Acoustic (stage speakers front and rear)
My buddy PM'ed me to tell me the Fiero had a Kicker amp (why didn't I use Rockford Fosgate?) for the sub, and he thinks I used the Macintosh for the stage (sounds right for my taste).
The head unit was Clarion

Oh and AMPLIFY EVERY SPEAKER.

------------------
Myke

PAST: 88 L4 5spd, 84 L4 auto, 88 L4 5spd, 87 L4 auto

Present: 84 L4 4spd, 88 L4 5spd

Future: Tomorrow will tell...

[This message has been edited by Myke (edited 04-07-2008).]

Like Fierosound said, get good quality stuff. i;ve had Eclipse and Alpine - both good, but Alpine just sounds better to me. Some Sony ES stuff is very nice too. My system probably cost about what you're spending:

Alpine head unit w/ EQ and single CD
Alpine CD changer
factory sub enclosure with new sub speaker
Seperates by a/d/s in dash and doors and Polk seperates in the rear
eight channel a/d/s amp with channels 7 & 8 bridged to the sub.

With good stuff you'll get all the clean sound you need. An EQ will allow you to fine tune to get the sound the way you like it.

I'd definitely get my money back and go somewhere else ....

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 04-08-2008).]

quote Originally posted by 88GT.FASTBACK: They used my origional Duel cd770 player.

That is your problem. Your headunit is a really really low end model that is feeding everything distorted signals. GO buy at least a $200.00 JVC or Pioneer radio/cd/mp3 head unit.

also $1400.00 for an amp, front speakers and sub? $1400.00 should have given you a new head unit that was in the $350-$400 range, a second smaller 4 channel amp to run the front and rear speakers, and rear speakers.

To put it bluntly. you were out and out robbed by that company. I will bet you that you can return it all, but you will have to pay for the install and the removal fees. no matter what, they will be getting money out of you.

the big thing to note is that stereo salesmen dont even know how to spell their own names. they do know, as youve seen, know how to sell you something they get a commission out of. most of them will list stereo installation as a job skill and then try and use it to get into the mechanic trade. not to say there isnt some skill invovled in high end setups but for the most part the guys around my area are highschool kids or adults who havent figured out highschool ended.

aditionally, adding speakers or subs to a system without replacing the headunit was your first problem. only recently did car stereos become more than garbage piles and even then, the headunit is the biggest factor in stereo quality. ive seen people buy 100 dollar headunits and then spend everything they have on speakers, xovers, eqs, amps, and subs only to find more of an improvement with just a good headunit. i too have dont this so im speaking from experience here.

also a 600 watt sub in a fiero is going to hurt you. 50 watts will produce 90db which is painful, sure everyone likes the boom boom but you eventually lose clarity and fidelity with full power setups.
for about 500 bucks i put togeather an 11 speaker stereo which, when turned up past ten(to 11) will block out everything inside and out and sound much better running at 50 watts per channel than systems(running off the shelf stuff, not competition setups) running 100 or more watts a channel, though i will lose the volume contest, but i wont lose my hearing. plus the air volume in a fiero is small so you dont need to move that much air.

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: That price is WWWWAAAAAYYY out of line. I would take it back and ask for removal and a refund. Honestly, ordering all parts myself you could put a top of the line system in that car (given the limitations of the cars speaker locations) for alot less than that.

Hey guys... keep in mind he paid Canadian pricing for this stuff most of which comes from American wholesale distributors at inflated prices ("special pricing" for Canadian orders). The brand new Eclipse CD I bought a few years back was $460 off eBay and nearly $1000 in the stores here. Even then, it sounds like a mismatch of stuff.

I agree his best bet would have been to buy all his stuff and install it himself but when a person doesn't have the space, tools or ability/knowledge to do it himself, he gets preyed upon by unscrupulous sales outlets. Its too bad he didn't ask here first.

Reading Chapters 1-5 here is a good primer on what people should look for http://www.decware.com/news...m?/secrets.htm&intro

Great FAQ page here http://www.mobileaudio.com/...faq/rac-faq_toc.html

And everything you'd ever want to know http://www.bcae1.com/

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-08-2008).]

i agree its cheap to do it yourself but lots of ppl i know dont know how so they pay me, id ont complain. if i were running a shop with overhead i can easily understand how the pricing can skyrocket like that. regardless to install front speakers, probably by using those adapter harnesses isnt much labor or money but ill assume a 50 percent markup. the sub, amp, and amp kit all cost alot just for me to buy and install myself but plus labor it can easily get up there too. my main 'warning sign' is that they did all this with a crappy 80s GM headunit. thats like replacing low brake pads and leaving bald tires on, or some better example. no matter what you do with the facotry headunit itll always suck compared to the cheapest headunit available today. unless its an xplod

Thanks for all the comments!

To add insult to injury, the sales guy called me up and wanted to know the install # on my bill.
I thought it odd as he he kept a copy of the origional then photocopied my origional at install time a week later.

I told him i didn't have a itemized bill for that and was under the assumption it was included.
He said it wasn't and i would have to pay for the install.

To make a long story short, i reminded the sales guy that the installer said my player did not have the outputs for the amp and you told me it would be fine.
At which point i reminded him of his store policy, that if i am not happy, which i am not.
I have 30 days to change equipment.

I told him to give me a few package deals at the same price including installation of new rear head speakers behind the drivers seat and we will go from there.

I told him i would come in and see him in a few days and he mutterd something then hung up me?

[This message has been edited by 88GT.FASTBACK (edited 04-08-2008).]

sick'em boy........ Get him for everything.

How dare he call you back and say that the price that he gave you didn't include the install and let you drive off the stereo parking lot before paying him. And NOW he wants labor charges... What kind of business does he run?

Talk directly to his boss, if they give you any problems don't forget to mention you have this posted on a car forum with 15,634 members at least 100 of them are potential clients for his store OR NOT. Demand to have things installed properly to your specs. Hamilton or not Hamilton, if you start giving them bad publicity here and other forums he will care.

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 04-08-2008).]

Did they split the bill parts & labor?

If you don't mind posting, what were the itemized prizes?

edit: nvm. I saw the post. sawwy.

[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 04-09-2008).]

I WANTED TO SAVE THIS FOR "ME" AND FOR "ME" ONLY.......

YES I'M A SELFISH BASTARD. BUT I'LL LET YOU IN A LITTLE SECRET...... LOOK WHAT I FOUND. JUST NEED TO FIND AIRSPACE.... DID I MENTION THAT I LOVE JL AUDIO!!!!



Here's the link..... it in a 13" right now but the 12" is coming soon..... On the 12", recomended air space is .63 cuft but the sub is 2.5 thick...WOW

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/p...ages.php?page_id=245

THE BOX WOULD END UP BEING AROUND 16" wide x 4" thick x 18" tall for about .66 cuft


I like to be symmetrical but --- How would you guys feel about putting the sub behind the driver side and flush mounting the 2 amps on the passenger? Do you thick the sound would be effected by it or do you think the car is small enough where the sound wave bounce is all over and you wouldn't tell. I'm sure the driver seat will vibrate more THAT'S OKAY. I LOVE MASSAGES!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 04-09-2008).]

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: I like to be symmetrical but --- How would you guys feel about putting the sub behind the driver side and flush mounting the 2 amps on the passenger? Do you thick the sound would be effected by it or do you think the car is small enough where the sound wave bounce is all over and you wouldn't tell. I'm sure the driver seat will vibrate more THAT'S OKAY. I LOVE MASSAGES!

I've got an 8" sub under the P/S dash, and you can't really tell where the bass is coming from in the car, it's just the way low frequency works. For the massage feature I've installed 2 bass transducers to he back of both seats...Shaky...

quote Originally posted by Austrian Import: Good, I'm glad I'm not the only one that doesn't like the sound of Sony xplod's. Sony makes great stuff, I just don't understand why their xplod line turns out such crappy sounding products.

I like how mine sounds. I did it all my self and spent about $1,000. I have one 800 watt amp behind the passenger seat, 2 6.5 JL Audio subs one in the center console and one under the dash, good 4x10's in the dash (dont rember what brand) same with the rear pillar speakers sound great but dont remember the brand and Infinity Kappa components in the doors. Counting the components as a speaker, I have 12 peakers total and if you count the power at the radio 200 watt Pioneer DEH P77DH I would have 1000 watts.
I think I can count the number of times I have turned it all the way up on one hand.

------------------

In case you want to get lost in the land of forums,
car audio is definitely the place to start.
These forums can give you more research than you will ever need on what you currently have,
and maybe what you should have E.H.R. do to make the upgrade worth $1400.

http://www.caraudioforum.com/ (137,740 threads, 1,274,863 posts in just the main forum)

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/ (different forum, similar name. 41,333 threads 506,604 posts, main forum only)

http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/ (Car Sound.com & Performance)

http://www.carstereo.com/forum/index.cfm

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/ (but doesn't seem to be working right now)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/ (another DIY forum, this one related to 'CarPuter's)

http://www.the12volt.com/in...rum_topics.asp~FID~2 (small DIY forum)
Last time I posted in all these with a question
each forum gave me a different answer. Everyone has their own opinion, especially with audio, especially with a bunch of amateurs.
I got lost with all the options, and decided to check again this summer closer to when I would be doing the work.

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: THE BOX WOULD END UP BEING AROUND 16" wide x 4" thick x 18" tall for about .66 cuft I like to be symmetrical but --- How would you guys feel about putting the sub behind the driver side and flush mounting the 2 amps on the passenger? Do you thick the sound would be effected by it or do you think the car is small enough where the sound wave bounce is all over and you wouldn't tell. I'm sure the driver seat will vibrate more THAT'S OKAY. I LOVE MASSAGES!

I have a 250/750 watt 10" behind the passenger seat powered by a 250/550 watt amp, and it sounds great. The only thing is that I would either hook some spacers to the front of the box and mount it backwards so that it's facing the firewall, or make sure that the seat doesn't go back all the way. My box isn't quite as tall, and is about 6" deep, so my passengers don't have all the leg room in the world, but they never complain about the massage. I put mine in backwards so that I could keep just enough of a gap for the sound to get out, and push the seat all the way back to the subwoofer. My sub isn't mounted either, so it's just sitting in there, so the seat helps stop rattles. The reason I didn't mount it, is because I used some of those female/female adapters for RCA plugs (glued and sealed into the box), so that I plug RCA's into the box when I want to listen to it, or I can just unplug it and take it out if I need the room. I'd post a pic, but I don't have any of it right now. I'll take a few pics when I leave for college and post when I get back. It isn't the prettiest, because I got lazy and never carpeted it.

Total, I have 2- 4x10's in the dash, 2- 3.5's in each seat, and the sub behind the passenger seat. 100 watts rms/300 watts max each 4x10, 50 watts rms/100 watts max each 3.5. That means 400 watts rms and 1000 watts max possible through the speakers, and 250 rms and 750 max through the sub. Just running off the headunit right now, and it still gets loud...I think like 115 db at 35 distortion free, without sub hooked up. Stereo goes to like 55 or something.

I did a box for a friend's truck with 4 10's. Two of them had a bigger cuft than the other to acquire the concept of different tones just like you stated. It really sounded good but trying to tell the difference is kind of hard.

I would just tune the frequencies of each individual speaker from your highs to the low's and make sure they there's no frequency missing. From 20K Hrz to the low 30Hrz. I would use crossovers and eq's on all..... Like my truck... each speaker or amplifier has a tuned frequency from either the in-line processor, or separate crossovers for the components and the 8".

1) tweet in each door -
1) 5 1/4 in each kick panel on the front floor
1) 8" Morel (shallow depth) mid sub in each door
1) 5 1/4 in each back pillar for rear fill
2) 12" subs in the extra cab


CLEAR AS A ......JUST VERY CLEAR... NO DISTORTION AT ALL.


---------------------------------
To think that when JL was new I paid $500 for (2) 12W5, (4) 5 1/4 w/crossovers, (2) tweets using the same crossovers.... and WELL WORTH IT -------- I have still have everything except the tweets. They were sold when I got rid of my Escort. Everything still bumps! 15 to 16 years of pounding

I don't think I would have a problem paying 5 for one.... It'll last a long time

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 04-10-2008).]

maybe I'll just try different filters and everything. I also thought about putting a 12" in the middle and an 8" on each side. The 12 for the really low bass, and the 8's for the more pronounced higher bass (and obviously each 8 tuned a bit different to get a more full range). I just don't know if I wanna lose that much hatch space.

My setup...dash speaker, stereo, and sub. The sub is sealed on the inside, and not carpeted yet






Some Eye candy...local ABC Warehouse did this to an 84 fiero









sorry for all the pics...I bumped size and quality down so they shouldn't be too much of a hassle

I believe this system far exceeds the over used youth phrase of "awesome".

From //www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-1-059938.html

1 Premier CD player Headunit
1 1/2 Farad Capacitor
1 Precision Power 404 power amp
1 Precision Power 102 power amp
2 Sony 5057 Mosfet power amps
1 Sony 2021 Mosfet power amp
1 Audio Control adjustable active crossover
4 Infinity Kapa 3 1/2" speakers (two each headrest)
2 Polk Audio EX 1500 1 1/2" Tweeters
2 Rockford Fosgate 3 1/2" Puch high midrange speakers
2 MB Quart 5 1/4" lower midrange speakers
2 Boss 123 Magna 1 1/4" Tweeters
2 Rockford Fosgate Punch 6 1/2" Subwoofers (under the seats)

"I would like to see pics of where he stuffed all of those speakers.""
Actually it is amazing,
4 are in the head rests
2 midrange in the dash
4 tweeters in the dash
1 each in the columns next to the seat (no seat belt retractors)
1 under each seat
for a total of 14,

The amazing part is where he hid the power amps (5 of them) one is behind the passenger seat, two are in the center console (I had to take that apart to find one of them as it was underneath the other one and I believe there is one in each door column beneath the speakers, I have not been able to confirm those...

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 04-10-2008).]

quote Originally posted by fierosound: ..

FieroSound. I have sent you an email @ fierosound1@shaw.ca

Thanks

Cory