Sounds good. I did preface my my post with a "usually" because cars can be tricky little suckers.

The fuel pump needs replaced. I just need time to drop the tank. Could this be the cause to all the idle problems?

UPDATE:

Fuel pump relay replaced. Fuel pump replaced. I put everything back together. Started it up, let it fun for 5 minutes, took it for a 5 minute drive going over 43 MPH. Came home checked codes.
All I am getting is code 33.

Also I think the tach is off. Not sure though but it says it idles at about 2400. I can rev way past redline, without it feeling "bad". Also the purple and yellow cable is cut. (spedo cable?)

[This message has been edited by CoryFiero (edited 03-15-2007).]

Did you disconnect the battery to reset the codes?

quote Originally posted by Hudini: Did you disconnect the battery to reset the codes?

Yes sir.

I have all day tommorow to try to fix this. I unplugged the map sensor and it threw a code 33 and 34. It has .some. vacume in the tube, but I don't know the correct amount, and I don't have a tester.

Ok, a high idle and rich and code 33? High pressure from a failed pressure regulator maybe. Would be nice to get a fuel pressure tester on it to make sure. I hate spending money on parts I do not need. Does it have black smoke all the time: idle, going fast, etc? Does it ever idle down from a cold start?

If it had a vacuum leak, it would run lean and the IAC could not close the throttle plate enough, therefore giving you a code. But you say it is rich. So too much fuel. The ECM temp sensor was never replaced according to the PO's posts. Have you replaced it since? I'm just wondering if the ECM temp sensor is bad (reading cold all the time) and the ECM is always adding fuel to warm the car up, would that throw a code 33?

Have you got a multimeter or ohm meter?

quote Originally posted by Hudini: Does it have black smoke all the time: idle, going fast, etc?

Mostly just when revved, but it smells rich the whole time.

quote Originally posted by Hudini: The ECM temp sensor was never replaced according to the PO's posts. Have you replaced it since?

No, where is it located?

quote Originally posted by Hudini: Have you got a multimeter or ohm meter?

No but I will get one tommorow if you tell me what to do with it.
Thank you again!

Cory

Pic of the 2 sensors, the ECM sensor is the one I am talking about:


You would first use the Ohm part of the multimeter to check resistance on the sensor. The good thing about the multimeter is you can use it for many, many things, not just auto stuff. Some guys like to have both the analog type and a digital type. I have both simply cause I bought the analog first since it was cheaper. Digital is easier to read.

Basically, check the 2 connectors on the sensor itself when full cold. Compare the reading on the chart. Then start the car and watch the reading. It should change as the car warms up.

quote Originally posted by racer37: 2 new temp sensors

I checked and that one is one of the new ones. Nice an shiney. I'm so confused on this. I guess I should probably check the fuel pressure and vacume pressure. How do I do that, what tools do I need?

- The car starts good the first time
- It cranks a lot before it will start after the engine is warm


I achieved GREAT idle today. I started it up and let it sit. It was hunting a little and probably high. After about five minutes the cooling fan came on and the idle dropped down and the engine sounded quiet while running nicely. I would say probably 900 RPM.
(Tach is off)

I let it sit like that for awhile and as soon as I gave it gas it died.

a couple of things to check
burp the system to be sure you have coolant flowing past the temp sensor.
for a quick burp: remove the tstat, top off coolant, put on the cap run the motor 30 seconds, top it off, run another 30 with a couple of gooses. remove cap, top off, it should take little to no coolant. if it took more than a quart, repeat the last step til it opens pretty much topped off. replace the tstat and test.

check the input ait temp on the air filter assembly, a 2 wire sensor on the filter canister. the previously posted chart of resistance is valid for this sensor too.

If there is a cat installed, you may now be fighting a clogged condition, as all this rich running can foul the cat, giving high back pressure and dork up the readings.

Most auto parts places have vacuuum guages fairly cheap, picking one of them up may help, especially if you can T it into the map line.

quote Originally posted by CoryFiero: I'm onto somthing. The car started getting hot. I unplug the connecter (ECM) fan turns on. Plug it in and wiggle the wires, fan shuts off and engine continues to get hot. IS my sensor bad? Or is it just the wires and connection. grrr

Seems like odd behavior. Are you sure the sensors and wiring are correct? The sensors are sometimes confused and plugs are rewired to fit the wrong unit. Here's what the sensors and wiring should look like:

It is the correct sensor.

Former owner said it was new and it looks new.

I don't know if I described it right last time.

The car was getting really hot, I unplugged that connector and fan kicked on. When I plug it in the fan always immediatly turns off. Now if I wiggle and bend the wires just right the fan will come back on, but I think it's just loosing the connection. Is this what happens when the sensor is bad?

Also I just burped the coolent system. No help.

Like I said though I did get a good idle once today, when the fan came on by itself. But it immediatly died when given gas as it always does.

[This message has been edited by CoryFiero (edited 03-16-2007).]

I just looked at the '88 2.5 ECM pinout. It looks as though the ECM is in control of your cooling fan. So the ECM temp sensor's signal to the ECM is used to turn the fan on and off. The fan turning on when the connector is pulled is probably a safety setting. It does not tell though if the sensor itself is good or bad. You still need to check the resistance on that sensor.

If you get a multimeter, you can check the resistance on all your sensors as well as the coils. My only suggestion is to go over the sensors one by one, see if they are within spec. If everything checks out, then you can move on to the fuel system.

One last thing, has the catalytic converter ever been replaced?

[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 03-16-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Hudini: One last thing, has the catalytic converter ever been replaced?

No it hasn't. I bought a multimeter today. I'm just trying to learn how to use it.

Cory