How much stronger, and how much more heat do hypereutectic piston dissapate than a stock piston, and how does it compare in these two categories to a forged piston?
thanks

The hyperutectic pistons are a good upgrade from cast pistons. They are also lighter than the stock pistons reducing rotating mass. They are MUCH stronger than cast. I ran them for 2 years with chomoly rings. They were great, until a nitrous bottle and lines found its way into my car. It lasted about a year of abuse before I shattered the rings and took a piece of the #1 piston out. Tore into the cylinder wall left .050 gouges in the wall.

If you are building a motor that is not going to see high boost or more than 50hp nitrous shots hyperutectic pistons are great. However seldom do I see anyone install a small power adder and then leave it alone. It always seems to find boost going up or nitrous valving getting larger.

I loved my setup right till the day I tore it down. For the record even with the top rings shattered and parts of the #1 piston missing the motor would still smoke the tires and ran well (except the blow by and engine smoking under hard throttle) If you do a google for capt fiero I bet the video is still on google video some place.

P.S. welcome to the forum

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85GT 5spd ,93 Eldorado 4.9 Dual O2 Custom Chip, Archie Clutch. Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything 245/50/16's Not Your Average 4.9 Capt Fiero Com --- My Over View Cadero Pics

Eventually I was hoping to run 14 lbs of boost at my max setting and 8 lbs at my daily driver setting. In your honest opinion do you think the hypereutectic pistons would hold up fairly reliably just running 14 psi at the track on the weekends and running 8 lbs daily?

thanks I look forward to many having a great time on this forum, I just stumbled onto these cars, I always thought these cars were POS, little did I know they were a mid engine rwd 2800 lb car. Pontiac needs to bring back this classic, and add power steering and a turbo six. I think if pontiac did those 2 things the car would be a huge hit, but I'm kinda glad they didn't in the past otherwise I'd be buying my fiero for 15000 instead of 1500 lol
thanks

For piston info, look here: http://kb-silvolite.com/index2.php

quote Originally posted by Capt Fiero: The hyperutectic pistons are a good upgrade from cast pistons. They are also lighter than the stock pistons reducing rotating mass. They are MUCH stronger than cast. I ran them for 2 years with chomoly rings. They were great, until a nitrous bottle and lines found its way into my car. It lasted about a year of abuse before I shattered the rings and took a piece of the #1 piston out. Tore into the cylinder wall left .050 gouges in the wall. If you are building a motor that is not going to see high boost or more than 50hp nitrous shots hyperutectic pistons are great. However seldom do I see anyone install a small power adder and then leave it alone. It always seems to find boost going up or nitrous valving getting larger. I loved my setup right till the day I tore it down. For the record even with the top rings shattered and parts of the #1 piston missing the motor would still smoke the tires and ran well (except the blow by and engine smoking under hard throttle) If you do a google for capt fiero I bet the video is still on google video some place. P.S. welcome to the forum

Sounds like detonation had more to do with your piston failure than nitrous, I had the exact same failure over 3 pistons but it was the result of repeated severe (audible) detonation under boost due to a disconnected ground strap. I had a broken ring 3 chipped pistons and a groove at least as deep as .050 in the cylinder wall before it finally started to show symptoms of injury months later, I even had deformed spark plug electrodes. If you don't detonate on them they'll hold up pretty good.

In a word No 14lbs will be too much for hypers. You might get away with it, if you are perfect and have lots of fail safes and are a god at tuning however I would say 80/20 ratio that they would fail. Anything is possible but every tuner out there is going to tell you 8-14lbs on Hyper pistons wont last.


Yep detonation was the exact reason the setup failed. If it was not for being brittle Hyperutectic pistons would be used for every application out there. They are actually harder than forged pistons. Note I did not say, better or stronger. Just like glass is harder than steel.

There will always be some detonation when running on the edge of an engines max power. The issue is that with forged pistons you can hear the detonation and then retune, or hear the detonation and know there is something wrong.

With Hypers, you will get away with it a few times, then the pistons just give up.

I have a basic idiots guide to tubo's on my site I wrote years ago.

http://www.captfiero.com/turbo.htm

Take most of it with a grain of salt, but it gives ya a nice starting point.

In my opinion, cast pistons are better than hyperutectic, at least on forced induction motors. Hyper pistons are allright to run in an NA motor and you question about dissapaiting heat, well the Hyperutectic alloy has more silica in it so it actually reflects more heat back into the chamber, thats why you must run a larger ring gap, to keep the ends from butting together. I used them in my daytona and i had nothing but problems with them, had to rebuild the motor several times from busted pistons. They do not take detonation at all! Just from my bad experience with them i would go forged no matter what.

I run hyper-pistons on my rebuilt 2.8. So far no difficulties. I am also boosting, still tuning my turbo. Yes, if you are planning high boost levels hyper pistons are probably not the best choice, but then high boost on a 2.8 block is not a good idea to begin with. You are sure to be looking at other parts that need fortified.

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87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

Run forged pistons for the littel bit more they cost it is worth it they are much stronger than hyper piston failure sucks it can tear up alot of stuff it is better to build the engine stronger than you think you need to then you know it will stay together

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: I run hyper-pistons on my rebuilt 2.8. So far no difficulties. I am also boosting, still tuning my turbo. Yes, if you are planning high boost levels hyper pistons are probably not the best choice, but then high boost on a 2.8 block is not a good idea to begin with. You are sure to be looking at other parts that need fortified.

This may not be about pistons. But I agree with Rotrexfiero, running "high" boost on a 2.8L fiero engine is not a great idea if your trying to get lots of power from it. You can do it if you like, but it's alot better to invest into an engine swap to get an power increase for your dollar. If you like to spend money on the 2.8L engine and top it off with all performance goodies, thats fine. But I rather do a swap and get more power than creating time & headaches to "boost" a fiero 2.8L engine.

Good Luck !

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fierogt28

I know that this is not the normal way to go for these cars, but that's part of the reason I want to do it. I don't think it's gonna be that much more expensive. I mean I'm gonna have to spend around 4 grand at least to just have the swap including the engine. I'll have around 300 whp with a SBC, and around 220-240 with a 3800SC, I figure if I spend around 4 grand (maybe a little more maybe a little less) on the turbo setup,toggle switch boost control, 8 psi & 14 psi, bigger injectors, rising rate fpr, a 255 fuel pump, and exhaust and headers. Then I figure I'll spend around 4 grand putting forged internals except crank(if anyone knows at what hp and tq level the crank begins to fail at I would love to know) , better 1.52 rockers, aluminum heads w/ larger valves, retainers, and springs, perhaps a port and polish, as it seems that the heads are the weakest link, depending how generous the g/f is on the anniversery lol. Oh yeah, it will be stroked to 3.1 litres as well and maybe a very minor cam upgrade in the future. I figure that these mods above minus the cam I will be able to put down around 350 whp and somewhere around that amount of ft/lbs of torque on 14 psi of boost. The only problem I can see is a lack of intercooler, but I will only be making 3-4 runs a month at the 14psi setting so I hope it doesnt pose a big problem until I can get a water intercooler. The only other problem I can forsee is have to run it pretty rich on the low setting, so I dont lean out and get detonation. But that's not to big of a problem because I won't be driving this car every day. I also have a friend with a evo 8 whose boyfriend works at a tuner shop so I will have access to 100+ octane gas, I figure that will help with detonation and power a lil bit too lol. I figure I'll have to spend about 2 grand upgrading the tranny, as well as drive it very carefully when i'm not at the track, to handle that kind of power and still be able to drive it around if needed. It might be a little cheaper to go the 3800, SBC, or even N* route especially cause my stepmom has a 94 sevile with a N* thats about to blow, but I have not seen any one on here run low 12's with a fiero engine (also I figure a lot more of these ricer/mustang kids in my neighborhood will race me when I tell them I have a turbocharched fiero engine and not some SBC, or even 3800SC, so I'm hopin to to even that difference out a little bit more lol). By the comments made earlier I guess hypereutectic pistons are not a very good option for what I want to do. I think I will go forged, like engine builder said I want an engine that is built stronger than I really need so it will be more reliable, lol hp isn't the only thing that cost money, reliability cost as much as hp. Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to get all my thoughts out there, if anyone has any info or thinks my rationale is wrong please let me know, I'm here to learn, but please use constructive criticizm and not just plained criticizm.
thanks
Joel

I wrote that page about 5 years ago when I was all set to do a Turbo V6, then I started doing resarch and found I could build a NA 2.9 up to 200hp and 200lbs of torque. Which both Fire451 and I were able to complete. However quickly found out that motors build just below full race specs, and then driven hard on a daily basis only last 12-18 months. Before you need to tear it down and freshen it up.

I did re-think going back to a turbo 2.8 but after resarching the tunning needed to get it right and the added electronics I chose to go V8. A 4.9 Caddy V8 runs 220hp and 290lbs of torque out of the box with a custom chip.

A SBC or 3.8SC were both considered, but the 4.9 was more what I wanted. Simple install great daily drivability with low rpm power bands make it great for daily cruising.

But back to your topic.

Can you build a reliable turbo 2.8 YES by GOD yes you can.

Will it go fast. If you call 14's maybe a high 13 fast then YEP.

Just be carefull with what you build.

Watts on the forum is a great resource. He has a 2.8 / 3.2 TUrbo and every manage of wide band, bunrers and now even a mega squirt setup on his car. Its in intercooled system too with is a huge step forward in the turbo world with Fiero's. I am sure he is going to make into the 250hp range by the middle of the summer just with tunning.


Please forgive my grammer and spelling I am writting this just before bed and the screen keeps on getting fuzzy.

Night Night ALl
I hope I have been a help to at least a few people.

Capt Out.

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85GT 5spd ,93 Eldorado 4.9 Dual O2 Custom Chip, Archie Clutch. Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything 245/50/16's Not Your Average 4.9 Capt Fiero Com --- My Over View Cadero Pics

anothere engine you might think about is a 4.3 chevy V6 it fits in the car nice it uses pistons from a 350 chevy and if you turbo it you will hit your HP number with out any problem go read how they made 300 HP with this engine no turbo and just off the shelf parts http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/113_0208_v6/index.html it is hotrod magazine so there are many way you can go to build the HP oh ya if you turbo charge your engine use total seal ring or C&A Z gap they realy Help HP in a turbo or supercharged engine

Just something that I learned is that way before you are making those big horsepower numbers you are making higher torque numbers. (Talking about the 2.8.) For me that is not much of a problem considering the geography of the Pittsburgh area, lots of hills and many curvy roads. The torque is great for cruising, and fast accelerations. If you are looking more for 1/4 runs, drag racing, than the 2.8-3.1 is not worth the time and money investment. As mentioned you are looking at 14's maybe 13s in the quarter mile. I ran 14.5 with my Rotrex charger on a stock 2.8 with about 7-8psi. I could do 2.0 60 foot time, and beat most any car, short of some hopped up dragster, off the line. Testimony to the low end torque and instant boost of the supercharger. (And also the way the Fiero squats, grabs the ground, and slingshots forward.)

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87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

Forged pistons
SBC small journal 327cu. in. connecting rods
and NITROUS.

with that you can probably run a 150 shot easy then be in the high 12s low 13s for way less cash and have the stock driveability.

I really dont want to do an engine swap, don't want the SBC because I dont want the extra weight in the back because I want to eventually use this car for auto-xing, I want closer to 50/50 weight distribution, and I really want a turbo instead of a supercharger. I think they are more efficient, and better for what I want. I want a pretty quick daily driver, I figure I'll have around 275-300 hp driving around on 8 lbs of boost, this seems to be the best boost setting for daily driving as I have heard of many people running this setting daily with no problem. I don't want this to be an all out race car, but I figure that I should be able to get at least 350 whp while running 14 psi and 100 octane, and I think I could do it fairly reliably (lol i dunno if reliability and 350 whp from a fiero engine should be used together, but I'm gonna try), but I dont think 14 psi w/o an intercooler, or maybe a very small one, on a built block, with the proper fuel mods, some type of piggyback fuel unit, and decent tune is too far of a stretch, especially when it's only going to be done 3-4 times a month and on 100 octane. Yeah its probably gonna cost a little more than I think, but ya know I'm old enough to know better to throw a lot of money into a car, but I'm still young enough not to care.

From the number crunching I've done you will need in excess of 14psi to make 300hp or over on a 2.8. To make that higher hp you will need RPMs, and these engine just dont like to rev that high. But, I think you will be impressed with a turbo'ed 2.8, since it is like night and day compared to the normally aspirated configuration. Torque is good, and running with 6-7psi fifth gear even pulls!!

I autocrossed, with my 2.8 supercharged. The power adder puts you in a higher class, and if autocross is your aspiration consider you money better spent on suspension and good tires. I was competing with guys way outside my cars ability, and the added hp and torque did not make up for it. Though I was able to do some good burnouts o

I apologize for my tone. I dont mean to sound like a "wet blanket" but the joy of the forum is that you can learn from others who have been there and done that.

If you are running a getrap trans, I have a mounting plate for a T3 turbo. Dont know if you are doing a home built turbo project, but PM me and let me know if you want it.

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87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

The main restriction is the intake manifolds so you making 350whp will be hard if not impossible if you don't change the intake. The rods can only take 300hp and 7k rpm. I suggested the 327 connecting rods and forged pistons because if you want to make big power or real power you will need strength and stock parts won't support 350whp. Better yet they won't hold for long so upgrading your bottom end to forged will increase the longevity of your investment. I say nitrous because you don't need half of the equipment as a turbo or a supercharger. An instant 150 to 200hp once you leave the turns. I'm just a nitrous junkie since I started running it. I'm sure probably like many that hate juice but I would really get the forged parts though. Then you would be able to run whatever the crank can handle.

Let me point something out, I don't want to be running around driving around town at 14 psi making 350 whp, redlining my car at every chance I get lol I've already done that with one car and now I have learned better. I want to run 8 psi 95% of the time and have a quick daily driver and have fun on some highway on/off ramps, and some curvy roads. Then when I take it to the track every once in a while turn the boost up to 14 psi, run 100 octane, and see what she does. I figure I can be making around 200 whp with a performance long block with forged rods and pistons, 3.1 stroke, 1.52 rockers, and a port polish performance head with larger valves. I dont think this is a stretch at all and if you think otherwise please tell me why. Then I use the 50% performance gain per 7 lbs of boost. By my calculations i'd be getting around 280 whp at 8lbs and somewhere around 350 whp at 14 psi, this is without calculating the gain for running very high octane fuel (I can't remember if it's 100 or 116 but my friend put down 432 awhp in her evo 8 with stock turbo, and stock boost, and some minor mods, so if you know anything about the 4g63t you know thats a large boost from stock 240 whp). If i'm not mistaken this will also help reduce the chance of detonation. I know those calcuations are guestimates, but I estimated them low imho so I figure I can atleast expect that much. The intake manifold is a weak place, I don't know how I forgot about that, thanks for reminding me. I know WCF has a beautiful intake manifold, but I'd have to find out how it would fit with the turbo set up, or does anyone have any other ideas of improving the intake manifold? I also eventually want to add an a/w intercooler so I can really turn the boost up and see how much the crank can really hold lol. I saw the turbo lt1 with the water intercooler in the trunk, that is a thing of beauty, the whole set up is a work of art, then when I read the specs drool, 383 stroker at 19 psi=rocket. But I think running a couple of times at 14 psi without an intercooler, or a small air to air would be ok, as long as I dont try to push it or do anything stupid. But I will definantly be going forged, does anyone have any idea where I could get forged pistons, and how much power can those 327 chevy rods hold up, i'm very interested. I appreciate the constructive criticizm as well, noone has called me stupd for trying this ( even though I prob am lol), yall have been nothing but helpful, this was a very informative first post.

dude 8 psi will not get you to 280whp and 14psi will not get you 350psi on a 2.8...talk to anyone with a turbo 2.8. Nitrous is for any motor that you want to go faster as it doesn't have lag and it never runs out of top end either. Power in a bottle. But I understand what you are trying to accomplish...good luck.

I understand 8 psi will not get me 280 whp on a stock engine, I'm talking about an engine with performance heads, ported and polished, oversized valves, full 3 inch exhaust, headers, and stroked to a 3.1. I'm not talking about a stock 2.8. I plan to purchase the turbo kit, drive it around at 8 psi until the valves or pistons go, or until I have enough money to buy the built stroker long block. I know when I have just the turbo kit on a stock engine I'll have less than 200 whp. but I figure with a fully built motor and double the boost, I should be able to add about 150 whp. I will also be running 100 octane, this is why I'm not worried about making the horsepower levels. If I didn't have access to 100 octane fuel I could understand why you say that I couldn't make that power, but I think the 100 octane will put me over.

I just put down 387 HP at the wheels with hypereutectic pistons in my 3.4l DOHC. I have been running them for 4 years with no trouble.

Just go with forged pistons, H beam rods, forged crank and a girddle on the bottom. Then you can do anything you want and not worry about it.

------------------
85 GT 3.4
Auto 3.08
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60"

That's a very good thing to hear, are your running any type of boost, nitrous, or a very high compression ratio. What type of set up are you running. How hot a cam are you running. I figure with 387 whp your putting some pretty high stress on the rods and pistons, and if they have been holding up for 4 years running around this amount of hp that's a good sign.

He has a 3.4 dohc which is a way different motor then a iron head pushrod motor. That motor puts those numbers down easy...with like 8lbs of boost. I am not trying to discourage you or even talk **** so don't take it the wrong way I just want you to understand the iron head 2.8/3.1/3.4 with a little bit more of a realistic approach. Now as far as the oversized valves go there really isn't a whole lot of room between the valves to up the size...you should get a spare head and look...so you can probably scratch that, BUT you can put BETTER valves in, port and polish is a must (see links below). You fail to realized that you will need to attack the intake first and foremost because that along with the heads is your biggest killers of power (see links below). The 3in exhaust is a good idea in theory but you do have to remeber that this is a fiero and space is some what limited and 3" full exhaust might be a bit much to go with a turbo as well, but if there's a wheel there's a way. From what I understand headers only give about a 5% increase over ported stockers so that is kinda upto you. Stroking it to a 3.1/3.2 will give you about 15hp/15tq. Now having a free flowing intake manifold and exhaust system doesn't mean **** if you have a stock cam...so that is a whole nuther ball game (see link below). Welcome to an empty an account aka fieros. Oh yeah...and I understood you were talking about a modified 2.8/3.1...good luck.


Port and Polish
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/060677.html

Twin throttle body intake aka "The Enterprise" (by far my favorite)
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20020208-2-014612.html
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/074050.html

The truelo intake manifold
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/062550.html
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/051176.html

[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 06-12-2006).]

lol No, I totally realize your just trying to tell me that the way I'm going is not the, easiest or the cheapest. Your just trying to help me out lol, but like I said before a fiero is the best thing place for my money to go, as I really don't have much else to spend my extra money on that would be productive for me lol. So why not say I have the worlds fastest stock v-6 engine (not stock, but not a swapped engine), lol it won't take me long to get there seeing as the fastest stock fiero engine on here is only running high 13s. But anyway, I totally appreciate the help goatnipples, as I'm new to this. You are totally right about the larger valves. I looked at the performance aluminum heads that i'm planning on buying, and i read that they had performance valves and I immediatly took that to be oversized valves. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the port and polish as well. I didn't mean full exhaust, I meant turbo back but I can still see how it might be tought to squeeze one in there. I also didn't think about the intake manifold either. The head work, and the free flowing exhaust wouldn't mean **** on a n/a without a cam, but with a turbo, you are ramming more air into the combustion chamber per stroke, so that means with better flowing heads more air can be pushed into the engine that would normally be restricted by the heads. Also that means there is more exhaust gas in the engine, so the larer exhaust would put less backflow pressure on the engine. I believe their would be significant gains over stock heads vs ported heads and say a 2.5 exhaust vs a 3 in exhaust. The cam would only amplify these gains, but it would increase the rpms which I don't neccesarilly want. But you have a valid point as a performance cam comes with the stroker kit. I was also wrong about my 280 whp daily driving level. I included the hp boost of running 100 octane fuel, but I somehow doubt that i'll be doing that lol. It would be more around 225-250. But I do think I can achieve the 350whp running 100 octane on 14 lbs of boost, on a forged (except crank) engine. 100 octane will boost the hp of a car a lot, and I think she said it was 116 octane. The shop has an evo, and a wrx racecar. You might call it cheating, but I call it winning lol.

You seem to have the wrong idea about octane. I'll explain a little, but ignore me if you know this.

Higher octane gasoline doesn't actually boost horsepower levels in and of itself. Higher octane gasoline only allows you to run more boost or a higher compression ration without knock. The extra psi of boost and/or higher compression ratio is what actually increases your horsepower. Without one or both of these things, using higher octane in an engine that doesn't need it won't do any good.

Like others have said, you're going to need to have a LOT of work put into the heads and intake of the 3.1 OHV to get them to flow enough air to make 350 hp at only 14psi. The exhaust will need its own share of attention, too. I wouldn't recommend ported stock manifolds, as those have only been proven to produce similar power to headers on stock or mostly stock engines. With 350hp you won't be anywhere near stock. Maybe try to track down some FOCOA headers. After all of that, I'm still doubtful that you'll be able to produce 350 hp at 14 psi, especially with the fiero intake manifold. Since you're doing all that work already, I also suggest you go ahead and convert to a 3.4 instead of just stroking the engine to 3.1. I think that would definitely get you closer to your goals.

You are trying to do the same as me that is why I have done some much researtch on these subjects. You will NEED a cam that has less valve overlap. The cam is the "attitude" of a motor. You keep the stock cam and you have a pussy attitude you go with a more radical cam ang your motor is now a beast. Seriously the cam dictates how much and when the valves will open. DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS PART IT IS VERY CRITICAL IN ANY BUILD UP. As far as octane in fuel ditto what fiero brick said.

Nash,

This may help.

I ran on dyno 2000 a few years back when I was building my engine. This is a 3.2 liter (pushrod) running with 10 psi of boost.

Here are the projected HP and Torque numbers.

HP Torque
2000 73 191
3000 133 232
4000 196 258
5000 244 256
6000 262 229

Maxium HP: 262 at 6000 rpms
Maxium Torque: 261 at 4500 rpms

Now this does not account for tranmission loses and other frictional loses (about 15% less). But, from my experience with this engine and turbocharging these are pretty accurate.

------------------
87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

Those figures don't seem too bad considering if you have forged pistons and rods because then you could throw a 100 shot on top. Talk about corvette killer.

Yeah, but you also have to consider that getting the Fiero to 6000 rpms is s trick in itself. Honestly when I ran my SC and stock exhaust I could not get past 5000 rpms. Just too restrictive. Just remember the more HP the more flow you need and the 2.8 pushrod just does not flow that much by design, hence why the 3.4 DOHC is making number. It flows and revs better.

------------------
87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

Everybody assumes others will run stock components. No stock intake manifold for me nor will I run stock exhaust. The only restriction I am concerned about is the heads themselves.

What other mods did you have on the car when you dynoed it? I don't think those are bad numbers at all. I don't want a car that has to rev to 6000 rps to make power. I'd rather make my power between the 4700-2000 range. Higher RPM's are the worse thing for wear and tear on an engine, I wan't to keep them down as much as possible while still being able to make hp. I noticed a large drop off in tq from 5000-6000, I believe it was more than the increase in hp. I'd much rather have the tq for get up and go, than the hp for 1/4 mile runs or highway runs. I don't know what else you had done to the car, but I figure if I have performance heads w/ port/polish, 1.52 rockers, and an intake manifold if you didn't have one, plus 4-5 extra pounds of boost I could be close to my goal. You can make more power running higher octane fuel due to the fact that it burns more effeciently and less unburned gas is expelled out the exhaust, but the gains are very small, and sometimes there aren't any. I assumed a larger gain from running higher octane than I should of. As you said higher octane gas does decrease the chance of detonation allowing you to run more boost. I also found out that I can get custom forged pistons at any compression ratio, but they are double the price of the regular compression pistons. I'm thinking, I could prob run a little bit more boost than I origally thought. My only problem would be lack of an intercooler. Do you think I could run say 18 psi w/ a small air/air intercooler without getting detonation on 100 octane? Naw I'd rather run a 50 shot hidden somewhere, run a a couple of pounds more boost instead of the extra 50 shot, you'd get around the same hp, and its always there even when the bottles empty lol. Can you say exotic killer lol, or new zo6 vette stay wither lol, or blown transmission lol.

The HP and torque numbers are not from a actual dyno, but software calculations. But, as mentioned they are pretty close. A 10psi boost also requires a intercooler of somekind. I would say these are the high end of what this engine, 2.8-3.1 pushrod, will produce. You are then looking at longevity issues.

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87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

A cheer for the hypereutectics:
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/wb_archives/32v_lx.html
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/wb_archives/32v_pistons.html

thanks for the articles, I think I might stick with the hypers as it seems like they can hold boost and hp, just not detonation. Which I'm trying to avoid like the plague. I think i'm gonna put an a/w intercooler plumbed something like that turbo ls1 on here. I think with lower intake temps, high octane race gas, and good tuning I can avoid detonation up to around 15 lbs of boost. I'm also assuming that those calculations were on a stock 3.2 w/ exhaust. I think I can make 400 hp with heads, intake manifold, 1.52 rockers, a minor cam, and 5 more lbs of boost. Thats only 150 hp above your calculations even if they were on the high side. Is this a stretch?

The rods are only good for 300hp. Get some FORGED SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 327 CONNECTING RODS. You don't need the air to water intercooler but if you do you will need a 12v pump to circulate the water, a water cooling medium and a place to tap in to the cooling system. Just get a mr2 intercooler it would be good for what you want, BUT the air to water unit will be almost at 100% efficiency.

[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 06-18-2006).]