Ok here's my problem. Everything thing is fine with the car. Except for when I put in reverse the front drive side tire locks up and doesn't wanna turn so if I want to back out I gotta drag the tire... All week I've been trying to avoid situations where I had to back till I have some time to fiddle with it. Car drives fine going forward. When I tap the breaks it makes a clink sound tho. Any help is very appreciated!!!
I normally don't reply to any thread with "HELP" in the topic, but this is an exception.
Don't drive the car until you get this fixed! This is an accident waiting to happen. You may experience brake failure at any time.
The upper bolt that attaches the left front brake caliper to the knuckle is probably missing, or it has at least backed out completely. The lower caliper attach bolt will probably be loose, too.
Here is what's happening: With the upper attach bolt missing, the caliper is free to pivot around the lower bolt, which results in the top of the caliper moving outward (radially) as it rotates. When you back up, drag between the pads and the disk cause the caliper to rotate in this way, and the top of the caliper jams against the inside of the wheel. When you move forward, the caliper pivots back away from the wheel, more or less into its normal position, and everything may seem OK until you back up again ... but it's not.
If nothing has broken yet, the fix is pretty simple. If the attach bolt is missing, you need to get the correct replacement from GM. (They are still available.) Install it using a drop of thread locker (e.g. blue Lock-Tite). Remove the other attach bolt, inspect it for wear or damage, replace it if it isn't still perfect, and re-install it using thread locker. It is very important that you torque both bolts to the GM spec (74 ft-lbs) using the proper wrench (Torx T-55). It should go without saying that you need to carefully inspect the caliper, wheel, and brake hose for cracks or other damage while you're in there.
It would also be a good idea at this time to re-torque the other six caliper-attach bolts on the car; if you find any of them loose, remove them, inspect for wear or damage, and re-install with thread locker.
Among Fieros this problem seems unique to the '88s. My Formula had a missing left rear caliper attach bolt when I bought it, and a couple of others were loose. If you search the PFF archives, several others have reported exactly the same problem, almost always with an '88.
Let us know how it turns out.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 04-10-2006).]
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10:15 AM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Don't drive the car until you get this fixed! You are about to experience a brake failure. This is an accident waiting to happen.
The upper bolt that attaches the left front brake caliper to the knuckle has backed out completely; it has most likely fallen out entirely. The other caliper attach bolt will probably be loose, too.
BIG OLD DITTO
I just recently had the same situation, I ripped the caliper apart, it was pretty dang obvious that it wasnt something to "limp home" from the sound. the metal around the sliders broke, I later tracked this down to one of the bolts had fallen out, putting extreme stress on the other one. Whats going to happen if you keep driving on this is the caliper frame is going to crack and break and the caliper is going to spin, rip off the brake hose and jam up into the caliper mount on the next time round the rim, destroying the caliper, mount, and gouging up the rim, likely locking the wheel. It wont be fun. I would seriously leave the car wherever it is until its fixed, tow it or work on it where it sits, hopefuly at this point you just need to replace the missing bolt. (I fixed mine in the parking lot of a coffee shop, lol)
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Its not always about who gets to the finish line first, its who looks good when they get there. 'Course it doesnt hurt to have both.
FYI - Im forgetful so if you PM me and I dont get back to you, please remind me.
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10:28 AM
Pyrthian Member
Posts: 29569 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
Don't drive the car until you get this fixed! You are about to experience a brake failure. This is an accident waiting to happen.
The upper bolt that attaches the left front brake caliper to the knuckle is probably missing, or it has at least backed out completely. The other caliper attach bolt will probably be loose, too.
Here is what's happening: With the upper attach bolt missing, the caliper is free to rotate about the lower attach bolt, which results in the top of the caliper moving outward as it rotates. When you back up, drag between the pads and the disk cause the caliper to rotate in this way, the top of the caliper moves outward, and it jams against the wheel. When you move forward, the caliper rotates back away from the wheel, more-or-less into its normal position, and everything seems OK until you try to back up again.
The fix is simple. If the attach bolt is missing, you need to get the correct replacement from GM. (They are still available.) Install it using a drop of thread locker (e.g. blue Lock-Tite). Remove the other attach bolt, inspect it for wear or damage, replace it if it isn't still perfect, and re-install it using thread locker. Torque both bolts to the GM spec (74 ft-lbs) using the proper wrench (Torx T-55). It goes without saying that you should carefully inspect the caliper, wheel, and brake hose for damage while you're in there.
It would also be a good idea at this time to re-torque the other six caliper-attach bolts on the car; if you find any of them loose, remove them, inspect, and re-install with thread locker.
This problem seems unique to the '88s. My Formula had a missing caliper attach bolt when I bought it, and others were loose. If you search the PFF archives, several others have reported exactly the same problem, always with an '88.
Let us know how this turns out.
ya ya - I've had this ahppen too. actually, on a chevette, but - same thing - missing bolt - caliper is locking on rotor
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10:30 AM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
Remove the other attach bolt, inspect it for wear or damage, replace it if it isn't still perfect, and re-install it using thread locker.
Here is a picture of a caliper attach bolt from my Formula. This one didn't fall out, but it was on the same caliper as one that did. It must have been loose for quite a while before I bought the car; note the obvious wear on the crest of several of the threads. A safety-critical bolt with visible wear like this is damaged, and should always be replaced!
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 04-10-2006).]
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11:36 AM
MilleniumFiero Member
Posts: 1225 From: Pearl Harbor, Hawaii USA Registered: Dec 2002
Actually the caliper bolt thing isn't totally unique to the '88's. I've had an 88 coupe spit out a caliper bolt, but last summer my 86GT spit one out too. That was the last time I put those puppies back together without locktite.
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08:45 PM
PFF
System Bot
Apr 11th, 2006
MilleniumFiero Member
Posts: 1225 From: Pearl Harbor, Hawaii USA Registered: Dec 2002
uhg what a waste of a day. Went around everywhere around the Island looking for the bolt but no luck at all. Now I can't find my key for the lugnut on the rim!
uhg what a waste of a day. Went around everywhere around the Island looking for the bolt but no luck at all. Now I can't find my key for the lugnut on the rim!
Hi, Snap on makes a nice little kit for you lugs--will spin them right off, its going to be hard to find hardware store type bolts for your calipers, might want to try the fiero store or some of the conversion guys like Ed parks that has a ton of old Fieros around ...
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01:38 AM
MilleniumFiero Member
Posts: 1225 From: Pearl Harbor, Hawaii USA Registered: Dec 2002
ordered over night shipping to hawaii (which will probably be 2 days)... shipping cost = ouch! I forgot to mention that I got too look at first hand what was going on when I jacked up the front of the car. the brake leans back and gets stuck on the inner rim. Then when the wheel rolls forward it kind of seats its self back but still touches the rim. I'm glad I decided to post on the forum that oculd have been bad!!! Thanks again guys put plus all around. I'll post my progress when i get the bolts in. Would anyone be interested in pictures while i work on it?
I got too look at first hand what was going on ... the brake leans back and gets stuck on the inner rim. Then when the wheel rolls forward it kind of seats its self back but still touches the rim.
Bingo!
quote
Originally posted by MilleniumFiero:
Would anyone be interested in pictures while i work on it?
Not much to show, but good quality pictures still might be helpful for the next guy who encounters this problem.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 04-11-2006).]
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09:31 AM
Apr 16th, 2006
MilleniumFiero Member
Posts: 1225 From: Pearl Harbor, Hawaii USA Registered: Dec 2002
Found my rim key under my seat in the car. Jacked it up and took the tire off inspected the brake line. Everything was good. Took the bolt out that was still hanging there. Replaced both bolts with locktight. Put back together started it up put in reverse and everything worked fine and no more clink noise when I push the breaks. Replacment was so fast that I didn't have time to think about pictures. Plus it was pretty self explanitory once the wheel was off. Thank all that helped!!!!!!!!!!!
Jazzman had something similar to that happen with him while he was driving down the interstate. Shattered the rotor, trashed the caliper and trashed his rim. He's lucky he was moving slowly.
The emergency solution to a lost wheel lock is a hammer, appropriate 16 point socket to hammer it on to the lock and a good size wrench to remove it if no impact wrench is available. The exception might be the smooth tapered locks, recessed and hex bolt style lugs. Knew right away what your problem was, I've seen it on a few customers vehicles, didn't see your post until today, you are very fortunate.
