thanks, I guess I should of also asked

how many quarts dose that trany want ?

O BOY it's getting close, got the battery all charged up.
cant wait to get it back on the road

I have heard differing specs...but it is between 2 and 3 quarts...put in 2 and then start checking the dipstick.

Three quarts of pennzoil Synchromesh it is

Thanks

[This message has been edited by jsshark1 (edited 01-23-2006).]

I have every thing together but it looks like it wont be my ride for tomorrow

I have two questions I was hopping some one can help me on

where dose this part go?

is this a part I forgot to install or is just another one of my sons parts mixed up in mine

and for the second problem ,

my clutch will not disengage completely, I cant get it in gear wile the car is running,
I don’t now how it could of gotten air in the system . I tried bleeding it any way but it still is not right( dose this car have any trick we need to be aware of bleeding the clutch?), I can start the car in gear with the clutch all the way to the floor and with out the emergency brake on it goes forward.
I did not replaced the clutch either it is the same one that was in their before.

any suggestions on what it can be, my new 5 speed came out of a 87 and my car is a 88 dose that matter?

http://www.drivetrain.com/muncie282FWD.html for the rebuild kit. When you remove the pressure from the push rod in the slave cylinder you generally end up having to rebleed the system. Some jack up the front end and let it gravity bleed to help the process along. Whatever you do, once you establish that the system has been adequately blead and clutch arm travel is sufficient and the clutch still does not disengage then chances are you may have installed the clutch disc backwards after inspecting it. I did it once, wasn't all my fault, my first time inspecting one during a swop and could find or see anything on it that said flywheel side and didn't put much effort into finding out. Otherwise like transmission and throwout bearing should yield the same results.

Installed the disk back wards I am going to cry look away, grown man crying
I remember putting the spring side out, away from the motor , and the flat side towards the motor ,is that right?

I would assume if I put the clutch backwards the springs plate on the clutch would be hitting the
flywheel and would never be able to disengage because of the spring plate hitting the flywheel.( yes no?) or at least make a horrible noise when I start it in gear with the clutch pushed in.

like I said, I can start it in gear with the clutch pushed in and it doesn’t make any funny sounds.
I do have to have the emergency brake on or it wants to go forward, and I did not let it run to long like that because I did not want to start burning the clutch.
if I had the clutch plate backwards would it still not made any funny noise when I do that , would it be able to disengage that much but not all the way if it was backward?

the system worked fine before I took it apart.

P.S what about the extru part i have, is it out of my fiero and i forgot to install it.

thank

[This message has been edited by jsshark1 (edited 01-30-2006).]

That extra part looks like the front engine mount that is under the pulleys on the engine block, but it probably isn't even a Fiero part. I'm sure you would have noticed if it was missing from your car by now.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 01-30-2006).]

front motor mount I would asuum it could not be that, some thing is holding the front of the motor up so it shouldn't be that, I never detached the motor from the candle so it should not be that.
I hope not, I will have to look

any more thought on the clutch quetions you guys
thanks

I just read YELLOWSTONE"S thread on the same thing
"Clutch not disengaging after new engine"

I think that answered a lot of questions for me, I will try bleeding my system tonight again

[This message has been edited by jsshark1 (edited 01-30-2006).]

Well I tried my best and could not bleed the system to work; I will have to pull the clutch slave out,
The master look like new, some one replaces it not to long ago. Beside mud coming out of the bleeder screw, when I pushed the slave piston in I herd cracking and crumbling, it did not sound good.

[This message has been edited by jsshark1 (edited 01-31-2006).]

I got the slave out and found that some one has already rebuilt it, that not the stock piston right?

after reading all sorts of threads on this yesterday I was hopping to find the stock piston and just replacing the O-rings since all I could read was bad things about those pistons with just one O-ring,
And it looks like all the mud I though was rust was really grease, I found lots of dry grease around the piston, it was mentioned in one thread that it helps putting grease on them to help them not suck up air.

Can some one tell me the best way to bleed this system with an after market piston in my slave?
Or is the best thing is to hit the junk yards for an original one? That won’t be easy

Suggestions

Can some one at least tell me if I should put grease again, the place I read it just mentions that he herd that they put grease to help sucking air. I was hopping i could heir about some one that did it and how much grease do I use and do I have to be careful where I put it.

[This message has been edited by jsshark1 (edited 02-01-2006).]

That slave looks like cast iron. It wasn't rebuild, it's not even the factory slave..

that makes sence, thanks for the heads up on what I have.

it worked fine before i took it apart, so i will try reinstalling it again and see what happens.

I spent hours on this yesterday, I decided to bleed the slave before bolting it up thinking that I could tilted it up, as they say do only one thing at a time, wile trying to work on my hood mod. and keeping a eye on the reservoir I let it dry up once. so I had to start over again, so I started by bleeding the master. had to unbolt that to so that the bleeder screw was higher then the back.
I then let gravity do it's thing, after I thought every thing was good to go I put ever thing back
together ready to drive my car and still could not get it in gear, I decided to take it on a ride any way knowing that if I stopped out of gear I would have to just turn the motor off and put it in gear and keep going. after a wile it started to get better I was able to get it in to second, after a wile I was able to stop and put it in first, with out turning off the motor, I still cant get it in third without grinding but I did not run the car for to long since it doesn’t have a hood on. but I am planning on driving the car around this weekend hopping all's it needs is for the oil to work it's way around the trany.
And the clutch to loosen up.

i was reading about cable ajustments ??
is thier a way to know if they are ajusted right or are they a bit out of wack??

thanks

I know a lot of people swear by the gravity method for bleeding but I have tried it on my 88 GT and it was no use. The only method that works on my 88 and I tried them all is to apply vacuum at the slave bleed. I have a friend who has an electric vacuum pump rigger up for doing this. It has a catch jar before the pump.

The earlier masters with the reservior on the end will bleed the system with the pedal method in 3 or 4 strokes. My 88 is getting an early version master next time I have to work on the clutch. Got an '84 master saved up for just that occasion.

I have a hand vacuum pump I can try, I am willing to try any thing at this point,

I do have the car on the road today , drove it to work after lunch,
the clutch works but it seems to need just a little more. I got first and second with no grinding
but third gear still grinding a bit,
can the third gear grinding be a misadjusted cable?

I drove the car around after work and it seems to be getting better but I still have problems with third gear, if I don’t hit it just right it grinds and even when I do hit it just right it still doesn’t seem like the
Synchro is working, I have no problem with forth gear at all it goes in like butter, first and second is definitely gotten better, they never grind that third gear
Can this still be my clutch or dose it sounds like I got a bad trany, or is their Gremlins living in my trany and will hopefully move out soon and third gear will work ok

It felt good driving my Fiero even with out a hood, stereo loud and proud

I did get the trany off of eBay but I was told it was in good conditions.

[This message has been edited by jsshark1 (edited 02-03-2006).]

all gears work but third the clutch seems to be working like before.

but third gear grinds most of the time, but we are talking about only dosent grind when I have no load on it.
I cant take off with any good speed and get it in to third with out loosing a tooth or two,

if it is that the third gear Synchros is bad, can they be change with the trany still in the car ?
is that what that bolted plate on the side of the trany is for ?

[This message has been edited by jsshark1 (edited 02-05-2006).]