I like, I like! That looks really good! Gonna do a Euro-style (think Modena, or even a Mazda3) rear diffuser in there to fill in the old exhaust cutouts and the other removed areas?

still a tight fit with those spintech's - but i like it - if you kept the part of the bumper you cut out - you could graft it back on to the other sides of the tips

Thanks guy's I definately am going to look into different style rear diffuser's and fascia's that would look good. I might start a thread to get some photochoppers in on this. I just got the program and I suck at using it.
Here are some more pics.
This is the xover.

Here is another view, I am going to rivet and or weld in some sheet aluminum to form another trunk.

Here is an inside pic.

I havent decided on what color to coat it yet. It will defeinately get "polished aluminum" ceramic on the inside. But there are some interesting color options available from www.hpcoatings.com another local company.
And I am going to have to relocate the fuel lines and insulate the wires, especially the VSS sensor. Anyone have any info on the best insulation to use.

i'm curriently rerouting my fuel lines with hard line back through the top of the engine and exit out the passenger side. i think this way is best because if there ever is a leak it won't be near anything hot. i'm trying to find a way to crimp new fuel lines ends, otherwise i'll just use compression fittings and extent the tube. just an idea for you.

Looks good man, keep up with the updates!

Awesome! You gonna bring it out Sunday to the BBQ? I want a ride!

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glad you are rerouting - i was a little worried there with the soft lines so close to the exhaust - hopefully the exhaust won't harm the VSS either looks pretty close

Joshua, I think routing the fuel lines like that is a good idea. I dont want the fuel lines anywhere near the exhaust, for that exact reason.

crzyone, whats up, how's the north*?

SCCA FIERO, I cant bring this car to the BBQ, because the clutch disk needs to be changed( I got the wrong one from "Spec". I also need to reroute some stuff. But I will be there. I want a ride in yours!

Kohburn, Yeah I need to come up with a solution for that VSS. I have some heat protection wrap, but I would like to use some thicker (thickest) stuff. There are some really thick spark plug boot covers that I am going to look into.

Also, after the motor is "broke in" I plan on doing the cam timing with a dyno before and after. The company that did the exhaust has a dyno and I would like to make the cam changes at thier place. Is it possible at all, to do this, with your tool, or without it while the engine is in the car?

quote Originally posted by t76racer: crzyone, whats up, how's the north*?

It looks so nice outside the car...

Next days off I'm going to finish up my motor mounts and test fit it inside the car. Also going to remove the trunk completely and weld in a X bar on the strut towers. I'll take pictures.

quote Originally posted by t76racer: Kohburn, Yeah I need to come up with a solution for that VSS. I have some heat protection wrap, but I would like to use some thicker (thickest) stuff. There are some really thick spark plug boot covers that I am going to look into. Also, after the motor is "broke in" I plan on doing the cam timing with a dyno before and after. The company that did the exhaust has a dyno and I would like to make the cam changes at thier place. Is it possible at all, to do this, with your tool, or without it while the engine is in the car?

you should be able do the cam timing with the engine in the car - but it requires pulling the intake and valve covers..
when i get time i have plans to make adjustable cam gears so you don't have to pull any of that stuff to change the cam timing

Kohburn,

Make some adjustable cam gears and I will jump on them! I used to have some on my Honda and it really makes it easy to play with your cams.

I would relly like a set of those adjustable cam gears too. Really, really want some.

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: .............................. when i get time i have plans to make adjustable cam gears so you don't have to pull any of that stuff to change the cam timing

Kohburn: have you actually given that much thought? Might be attractive to a lot of people! When you can put some ballpark #'s on it be sure to post it! Should be able to fit any year, wouldn't you think?

quote Originally posted by fiero308: Kohburn: have you actually given that much thought? Might be attractive to a lot of people! When you can put some ballpark #'s on it be sure to post it! Should be able to fit any year, wouldn't you think?

yeah they'd be able to fit any year - the key to keeping them affordable will be getting stock sprockets as cores - I need to machine out the centers and use the cog surface as an outer ring to a new aluminum core

When you are ready to get into this project, let me know and I will send 4 sprockets for you to play with.

It is friday night and I am staying home. Why? Because I am going to swap clutches tommorow before 12:00 noon, so I can keep my alignment appiontment. So I have to get a early start and be fresh. (the sacrifice my social life has to take for the Fiero)

I have to pull everything, swap clutches, reroute the fuel lines, and make it to the alignment shop all before noon. I want to get the car able to cruise more that a few blocks, which has been all it has been able to go because of the clutch and alignment.

So here is a pic of the car on the ground with exhaust and wish me luck!

Oh and if all goes well tommorow I will have the car on our "race" scales. Lets see how much it weighs with the DOHC and the exhaust. It will be interesting to see the "cross weight".

Wow, I like the look of your rear fascia! Looks mean how you have the exhaust done as well.

I am getting good at this. Around 3 1/2 hours to pull.

This one looks cool.

The pressure plate, all greased up.

This one shows how the bearing has been burnt and the grease has actually hardened inbetween the sleeve and the bearing, slightly "flaring" the end.
The sleeve itself had a "bur" that formed a "lip" at the end where the clutch disks "hub" rubbed into it, making it impossible to get the bearing off without grinding it down!

Look close around the splines and you can see where the input shaft sleeve was ginding into the disks hub!

Feel free to correct me if I am using the wrong names for these parts. I hope more people see this and the others that had this problem so that anyone considering buying from Spec will know what to look for.

(maybe we, someone should make a thread titled apropriately for the search function so that anyone with questions wil be able to readily find the info so no one else has a problem) ( some consolidated info from everyone that has had problems with solutions and also the successes)
I am not intending to "flame" Spec they have really great customer service. They sent me new stuff within a week of calling without as much as a 3 minute phone call, no arguing at all. But the fact is they sent me a Defective part in the first place, that caused me much problems and time wasted. I will say that a more experianced mechanic probably would have caught it before installing it though. Even with these repetedly reported problems the overall opinion is that they are strong clutches if you get the right parts.

!!!!!!!!!!!!! Holy crap dude. So it's not imagined, those incorrect clutch discs will really get ya...

Boy, I'm glad I got the right one. And to think, I was going to write off the concerns I got from a couple people and keep moving on the project...

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20050119-2-053576.html here is my thread when i had my problem and nobody wanted to believe it. i also warned someone in a V8 thread. on page 7 i warned him, on page 8 he removed his clutch because he didn't listen. you can try to start another thread warning people but they won't listen.

Crzyone, thanks bro! I got the idea to cut the trunk from you.

Blue Shift, This really sucks but, its done now. I wish I could have had the fun I had today a month ago!

Joshua, I personally wont start that thread I just thought it would be a good idea. If you want the info it is already there you just have to look alittle harder.
After I caught on to the problem in Blue Shifts thread I was able to find out a few more threads that had the same problem.

Well I have the car aligned and it ROCKS! I have been cruising off and on all day. The car runs really good, the exhaust note is well basically its still loud but at the same time a really low grumble. Durring acceleration its pretty exotic sounding definately unique.
This was my first day of really getting out and around, people actually stare as you go by, especially the imports. The alignment shop was really impressed, and had many questions. Infact I was asked twice in traffic if I had a v8 "in there" I havent pushed it to the limit yet because the break in period. And I have been letting it cool down too in between runs.
This car is really fun and has a whole boa tload of power. And the rev range is sooo much better than the 2.8. This thing really flys. And I should gain more power as the rings seat themselves, b

Great thread. So has anything else happened yet? What was your approximate cost for the project from start to finish? Thanks for the great info. -Zack-

Sunflash, Hey I havent added to the car much, lately. During the clutch swap, I did reroute the fuel hoses around the front and added some heat shield by the exhaust. I have just been driving it as much as possible to break in the motor. I have posted a short video of the exhaust sound on the general topic side.
Here I will post it here for the ones that may not venture over to the other board.

http://www.gigashare.com/files/embed/998245470.html

Like I said I was just trying to record a sound clip, this one is around 2000-2500 rpm. I am going to have a passenger record some higher rpm runs, it sounds crazy at WOT.
I get my recipts out and start counting, but this swap can be done cheaper, than this.

Thanks Travis

So how much did it end up weighing?

I know you said this above, but I'm too lazy to search, what exhaust tips are those and where did you get them?

Sounded pretty good, but I need a WOT clip.

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"What would you do if I came over to your bedroom every morning, stuch a vacuum hose on your wife's nipple, and turned the Hoover on? Huh? Huh?"

quote Originally posted by t76racer: Also, after the motor is "broke in" I plan on doing the cam timing with a dyno before and after. The company that did the exhaust has a dyno and I would like to make the cam changes at thier place. Is it possible at all, to do this, with your tool, or without it while the engine is in the car?

If I recall correctly you have a 91-93 motor with the lockring style cam cogs. You have to pull the motor to do the timing.
The only other way around it is to pull the rear cam carrier, pull the cogs, remove lockrings, and reinstall... then get the timing right the first time so you don't have to pull the carrier again. I'm going to do this except put 94-95 cogs on while the carrier is off. The cogs on the front carrier can be removed in the car even if you have lockrings; there is plenty of room for a puller.. but if you have a set of 94-95 cogs you may as well put them on there too so you dont have to remove the belt and reset the tensioner to change the timing.