Robert,
I know you can get a Raybestos rebuild kit from O'Rielly's Auto Parts. I recently bought one for $5.97. Just a piston seal, a new bleed screw, a tube of grease, and a snap ring.
Rod travel of the master cylinder rod:
If your clutch pedal is bent, and you lengthen out the adjustable rod to make up the difference, you just increased max travel by that much.
Let's assume you lengthen it out just enough to take up all the slack-putting the clutch pedal 1" above the brake pedal, but no preload on it. That is, the MC piston is still all the way back in the rear of the bore, the rod touches the back of the piston as required, and you don't have to exert any pressure to slip the banjo over the stud on the brake pedal. The starting point of the piston is always the same-at the rear of the bore, next to the retaining ring. The only thing that will change, is the stopping point. This is usually dictated by the pedal hitting the floor. By raising the start point of the pedal due to the bend, and lengthening out the rod, you have now increased the max travel. If this were not so, then there would be no use in ever putting an adjustable banjo in to begin with. The piston is travelling further in the MC bore. It can't be any other way, with a bent pedal. The further the MC piston travels in it's bore, the more total volume it will displace in it's movement forward.
If you lengthen the adjustable rod too far, you can end up with more than the required travel in the slave. I know this, because when I did mine, the first time I tried it, I ended up with 1 1/16" slave rod travel. I could feel a definite 'cam over" effect as the pedal neared the floor. I deemed this to be too much, and backed off the total MC banjo rod length till I was pushing the slave rod only 15/16" and all has been well--except the afore mentioned right turn oddity..
