Steven; hate to bring up the header issue again but just wondered. The stock 'log' exh manifolds are prob one of the worst AND most convenient manifolds going. So there is this HUGE temptation (and reason) to use them of course. But they no doubt flow really poorly and I am pretty sure they don't help performance at all, to the point that almost ANYthing "resembling" a header will be better. I think making flanges and stubs would be the bigger prob; figuring out how to do a decent sort of 'oval' shape to match. I believe that for this engine, ANY tubular exh would be a marked improvement.
But the big thing I don't know is clearance issues across the front of the engine; ie next to the firewall; I am thinking it must be very close? Something I haven't seen described or photo'd in any of the threads.

If you can gas weld I think headers might be not too bad; with oxy acet you can do PRETTY thin stuff; just be sure to use the strongest rod material you can get. I have a mig welder and not sure how it would go doing really thin stuff with that. I was at a swap meet yest and thought I could just pick up a few sets of 'scrap' (but not rusted-out) headers at $50-ish? (get the same diameter LOL!) and cut them up for pieces and bends; might be a way to go at it. Or buy a bunch of bends of course;
anyway;
the header issue is on my mind. I don't think there are too many sets out there so it is going to be a one-off for this motor.
I know Aaron is saying he 'makes' them but am not sure his swap is done and running, so it would be hard to do I think without a motor actually running in the car; and if tubing goes anywhere NEAR the trans/shifter then it better be pretty accurate.
two more cents for ya
keep up the great posts!
gp

I will make them...Someday...I get my car late May, and the swap should be taking place late summertime, but I might throw a junk 3.4 I have in ust to make them, so others could have them sooner.

As for the manifolds. As far as stock cast manifolds go, they are not that bad. They do have large ports. But yes, any tubular header is going to do a lot of good, but not nearly to the point equal lengh sets will. Although their shape is good, they are still a big bottleneck.

Well In case anyone missed my "I broke it again" thread. I spun the #6 rod bearing. Lets just sum it all up and say, it was well worth it . Ive got the engine out and pretty much stripped of all the custom parts. Im going tomorrow to get my "new" engine 105k 92 chevy lumina. Still has the dealership year stickers in the window, apparently something involving the studs breaking and the wheel falling off eneded it in the junkyard, so the engine should be in great shape. Ive also ordered a centerforce dual friction clutch so I dont have to worry constantly about burning the little stocker up. Best part is, I got it for like 170 or 190, I dont remeber, I just told him to get it for me when he said one hundred ... My friend paid like 270 for his. She'll be back on the road by friday.

Another spun bearing with a 3.4l. Mine went at 127k.

This one had 140k, I knew it had a weak bottom part when I got it, I could just "feel" it in the engine, and it had less than optimal oil pressure. Then I proceeded to beat the living crap out of it for ~800 miles. The final straw was sitting and waiting to make sure the cooling fan would turn itself on, I finally just hit the AC at 235, after it cooled down I left, and on the way out I hammered it. Next morning it was knocking. This is by no means the engines fault. But I knew I had a good supply of extra engines at my disposal, so I wasnt concerned about breaking it.

I finished stripping it and got it out of the way, hopefuly I'll have the new engine home around 5 tomorrow, Id like to drive it to work tuesday.

yes that oil leak is very common go on rodney dickmans website (www.rodneydickman.com) and order his "districutor o-ring gasket" set which will get you a new add-on o-ring to stick in there. You'll have to stretch the heck out of it and work in in there with a screw driver or two but once its in there you wont have any leaks. I failed to do this with my engine and now what was a nice clean engine bay looks like it houses a POS engine that leak oil everywhere. Not to mention it is annoying having to add oil all of the time. That is a major thing that i need to repair on my engine. I recommend that you do it with the engine out otherwise it is gonna be a huge pain. Its also easiest with the intakes off but that requires a gasket set. The only true way to fix it (to remove the plug) is to take the front head off (YUCK!) and replace the original o-ring. You could also fix it by using some permex "gasket maker" and squiring it in there while working the plug in and out.

Good luck!
Jeff

------------------
REMEMBER: If you cant win the race you loose the argument!!

3.4 DOHC Motor Swap-14.7 in the 1/4 mile with no hook-up, crumby exhaust and automatic chip.
Better exhaust, chip, cam retarding, and driver to come... I'm feeling lucky!
www.geocities.com/j_depies

No, not the distributor plug, I mean it looks like there is oil seeping from below the cam towers (the part that holds the cams) and the clendar heads. Not the head gasket, but the one 3" above it

I noticed this on my engine also but I am pretty darn sure its just from oil that got sprayed around the engine bay and kind of cooked on above the exhaust manifold - if you are concerned about it but don't want to do an overhaul then you can clean it up REAL good and smear a bead of sealant on it.

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: I noticed this on my engine also but I am pretty darn sure its just from oil that got sprayed around the engine bay and kind of cooked on above the exhaust manifold - if you are concerned about it but don't want to do an overhaul then you can clean it up REAL good and smear a bead of sealant on it.

I saw this on mine too... It's a nice place that oil from anywhere else is going to run into and sit. Looks like a leak there but its not.

I got the engine home today, and tonight I got about 80% of the custom parts put back on the new one. Ive got to finish the vacum lines, dipstick, and ignition system. Then put er back in there.