bHooper:

By "idle disappear" I meant this:

When driving, push clutch pedal(yes, clutch is fine), don't touch gas pedal, engine should now go down to idle but dies. This does not happen all the time but more in a random fashion...

Any suggestions?

/ Henrik

thanks for clearing that up... sound's like an ignition problem.

hoop

WOOHOO!!!! I got to drive hoops car yesterday briefly around his neighborhood. We couldn't really run it much as he still has a few things to straighten out but it sounds good and even without really getting on it you can feel the power just lurking there.

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Jeff
AOL IM : Only2xsess

what? we drove the car?! really? shhhhh... keep it our secret.

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hoop
Red
'86 GT
5 speed
Borla Exhaust
Eibach's/Poly/Kyb's
*** 3.4 TDC powered car any day now***

Okay, I'm sitting in my Thinking Chair with my handy, dandy.... Notebook!

(you can tell I have kids, right?)

And so it says....

"You will need to use the 3.4L TDCs A/C Pump and have the A/C lines modified to fit between the Fiero System and the 3.4L TDC Pump. Late Iron Duke's have the Flat Belt (87 & 88s) and the lines will attach directly to the 3.4L TDC with no modifications.

...the High Pressure Sensor of the 3.4L TDC Air Conditioning has three electrical pins and a steel body. This is normally located just off the compressor, past the bottle, on the High Pressure Line. If this is missing pne must purchase and screw on the pressure fitting. In installing on an 86 - 88 Fiero, you can simplify the installation by locating the high pressure tap in the Front Compartment and installing the sensor there. On an 85, the short Flex Tube horizontally below the Dryer Bottle can be replaced with an 86 unit, thus allowing for sensor replacement.

Wiring changes neccessary for the front compartment placement of the sensor is extending the wires by 8 feet and covering them with 1/4 inch plastic covering. Feed it along the AC Lines, tie them up with plastic ties. Feed it through the water drain opening on the Driver's side front compartment."

I can't actually find the part about what wires are or are not used. I could be completely mistaken about not using the green wire. Truth is, I have a green wire left over in that loom and I don't remember what it's for!

From the sounds of the passage I copied, it sounds like you are extending the wires and using all three. Once you get into the front compartment, use the 3.4L TDC sensor (with the three wires) and screw it onto the high pressure tap (schrader valve) on the stock Fiero Cansiter.

I posted that first bit because I get alot of question about how to hook the AC hoses up. That should answer that

Good luck!

DKOV -

[This message has been edited by DKOV (edited 06-01-2003).]

DKOV,

Thanks! That makes sense now. Mostly because I now understand that it's something that needs to be added to the car, not a preexisting sensor that needs to be modified.

Thanks!
hoop

One at a time is fine.

i replaced the suspected coil, and no change. she turn's over fine, but no spark. i guess i should check the harness again, just to make sure i didn't mess anything up.

hoop

No spark on any coils or just one coil pack?

no spark anywhere. i guess i will have to pack a few tools and pick one up at the yard tomorrow.

hoop

Hi Hoop,
Are you getting juice to the coil pak? Also is your motor got a good gound strap? It might be possible that the crank sensor plug is loose or the sensor is bad.

Yeah, I wonder if you just blew a fuse. The modules on DIS are unknown for just dying totally. Or that crank sensor.

An easy test is to put a screwdriver or something long on an injector and see if you can here them click while you crank. If the crank sensor is bad or disconnected, you won't get injector pulses. Wait, that could also mean the module since the pulses pass through it to the ECM......Dang.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 06-03-2003).]

i replaced the crank sensor, and wired up a spare control module/coil pack set that i picked up at the salvage yard, and still no spark!

it cranks, but i'm just not getting ignition. i'm starting to think it's a wiring issue. i'm going to have to reinspect the whole harness.

no that doesn't make sense either, does it? if it was the harness, the thing wouldn't turn over at all. honestly, there are 3 basic components to the ignition system... 1) coils, 2) module, 3) crank sensor, right?

am i missing something? i have the battery ground at the front, and the neg. cable run to the block, where i have the harness' grounds attached. should i also have a ground strap to the frame like the 2.8 did?

thanks!
hoop

[This message has been edited by bHooper (edited 06-03-2003).]

I had a similare experience when I did my first 3.4L TDC swap... This may not fix the problem but it IS a very good idea anyway....

Run a 00 Ground Strap both from the battery to the chassis and the battery to the block. Don't rely on the chassis to carry the ground. When I did this, it cured a good portion of my problems.

Beyond that, the DIS is very touchy and can be easily damaged. It is highly recommended that when doing this motor swap, to remove the DIS and keep it separate from the car in a safe place and install it last.

The TPS and IAC are also two deviced that can be easily damaged... as easily as spraying with water.

Let us know how it works out.

DKOV -
DMS

thanks to TK's help, we were able to eliminate the problem as ignition. instead, we discoered the car isn't getting 12v to the fuel injector harness.

so now, i have to go hunting for a cut wire, or a cold solder joint.

happy happy, joy joy!

thanks, terry!
hoop