After charging the battery good, I cracked uopen the TB a bit and hit the switch.... blub.. blub... blub... VROOOOMMMM!

The only problem, is it reved up to about 3500 RPM's and stayed. I have a feeling that I can bring this down some when I get the vacuum lines on, but I don't think it's going to come down 2500 rpms.

I'll keep you updated.

------------------
hoop
Red
'86 GT
5 speed
Borla Exhaust
Eibach's/Poly/Kyb's
*** 3.4 TDC swap under construction***

Here is your idle curve. It's coolant temp vs RPM. It should start at around 1200-1300 and then drop to 925 once it's up to temp.

TEMP RPM

-40 1700
-18 1600
3 1400
24 1350
46 1300
68 1250
90 1200
111 1150
132 1000
154 950
176 925
198 925
219 925
241 925
262 950
284 1000
304 1000

Yes, you have a vac leak somewhere or the throttle plate is being held open.

Thanks Terry!

I know I don't have the vacuum lines all hooked up, yet. There are 3 that I can't figure out where they go.

1) The small hard metal line that goes along the fuel rail from the MAP sensor.
2) The single out from the MAP sensor (the one that points towards the trunk).
3) The "thingy" (so you like my technical terms?) that hangs off of the intake, next to the map sensor, that seems to produce vacuum on it's on, has 2 lines. 1 goes to the TB, right below the PVC valve, and the other one doesn't seem to have a purpose.

oh, there is a 4th, but i understand that. that's the line that comes off the side of the intake and goes to the brake booster. i just have to find a hose to fit that.

hoop

The small hard metal line that runs along the fuel rail is for the auto tranny, get rid of it and cap it. The other two should go to the two lines that come off of the trunk wall right next to them. I'm not sure which is which I'll have to look into it as I'm not that far along yet. Congradulations it must feel great.

------------------
Alan Frazier
'86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC under construction
'84 2m4 daily driver

Let me know when you're done so I can get a ride

I along, only because I missed a month working on it because of surgury, and the car's inspection expires in May (so I have until early june). It ain't pretty, but it's there. I will need to improve on the fuel lines and the harness as time and money allow's.

Gary, I have a feeling you, me and Jack will be giving ride's left and right at the next meet.

hoop

So when's this next meet gonna be! I can't wait to get a ride in your car, Hoop! I've heard so many good things about the 3.4DOHC and I've never ridden in one!

You'll like it!

hoop........I might have to drive down to Greensboro and check this out. That'[s a self invite in case you didn't notice......LOL.

Phil

------------------
87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
0-60 in 6.8 seconds!
87 FIERO CPE 2.5 5spd
86 FIERO SE 2.5 AUTO
87 FIERO GT 2.8 4SPD

it'll have to be a bit. i got so much left to work out on the car. hopefully i will have it runing clean by 2nd weekend in june (so i can drive it to VIR for the endurance race).

of course, i just noticed there's a pancake sized oil leak underneather her now! if it's not 1 thing it's another!

ok, so I got the vacuum lines fixed and cranked the car again. it started out about 2000 rpms and settled down to around 900-1000.

having cranked it several time (trying to burp that thing without removing the thermostat is tough), i noticed that it shoots up to the 2000 range each time b4 coming back down to 800ish. is that normal, or more just a cause of having it set for so long?

also, i've noticed that the check engine light is on. how do i read that, and will the codes be the same as the 2.8?

thanks!
hoop

p.s.
did i say she was loud? 2' of exhaust coming off the dump makes for a bit of noise!

[This message has been edited by bHooper (edited 05-18-2003).]

Shoots to 2000 on a start? Usually means the IAC park position is too high for some reason or a small vacuum leak that the IAC can compensate for but from IAC park, it has to close more.

For the codes, you should have ECM B5 to M on the ALDL (serial data), B3 to ALDL B (Diag) and ground ALDL A. You can then short A and B and get the codes. If you didn't hook up the ALDL yet, short ECM B3 to ground and it will flash to codes. I'm betting you don't have CCP or shift light hooked up and it's throwing a Quad Driver error.

Let me know. Also, check your PM's.

Terry

thanks Terry. i will check it out.

for starters, i don't have the air intake hooked up yet, so that could be a problem... hey, have you ever put your hand over the TB while it's running? man, does that thing suck some air!

as for PM, i can receive but for some reason cant reply... if you can use my regular email.

thanks!
hoop

No Intake Air Temp Sensor will turn the light on too.

i have that plugged up. i'll sort it out. fortunatly, i don't think they worry too much about that when they do inspections here.

i know i have a few things that i haven't clipped, like the auto tranny plug, and there's a powere steering pump switch (i have the pump on, but can't find where to plug the switch)... and something else that's not coming to mind.

hoop

Did you fix the GREEN WIRE?

There is a wire under the dash that plugs into a pin on the back of the HVAC... The TDC computer doesn't need the feedback from that unit as the Fiero did and will set a constant check light if you don't disconnect it.

I don't recall the wire color and pin location exactly... I'll get it from my notes and post back.

That may be it. What year is the Fiero donor?

DKOV -
DMS

quote Originally posted by DKOV: Did you fix the GREEN WIRE? There is a wire under the dash that plugs into a pin on the back of the HVAC... The TDC computer doesn't need the feedback from that unit as the Fiero did and will set a constant check light if you don't disconnect it. I don't recall the wire color and pin location exactly... I'll get it from my notes and post back. That may be it. What year is the Fiero donor? DKOV - DMS

I think it's pin K of the HVAC control head. It grounds the fan relay when you select AC. It's not needed when the PCM is controlling the AC. Unless it the switch was in AC mode it wouldn't affect anything. Good catch though.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 05-19-2003).]

AHA, now it makes sense

------------------
Alan Frazier
'86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC under construction
'84 2m4 daily driver

quote Originally posted by DKOV: Did you fix the GREEN WIRE? There is a wire under the dash that plugs into a pin on the back of the HVAC... The TDC computer doesn't need the feedback from that unit as the Fiero did and will set a constant check light if you don't disconnect it. I don't recall the wire color and pin location exactly... I'll get it from my notes and post back. That may be it. What year is the Fiero donor? DKOV - DMS

good sugestion! although i will need a little more info. if i was to go and chase a green wire, i would have a busy night of it!

but it sounds as if i find that, i can fix the constant running fan.

thanks DKOV!

hoop

Constant running fan.... another indicator

The magic answer is:

Pin K - Green wire with White stripe.

It must be separated from the HVAC unit. In some cases, the Fiero may have TWO of these wires coming from pin K. In reality, they are the same wire, but the engineer on duty that day decided to connect them at the control head rather than down line where they SHOULD be connected...

In any case, if there are TWO wires, cut them BOTH off the HVAC unit, combine them both back together securely.

In both cases, make sure you completely cover both the loose wire end and the HVAC wire ends to avoid accidental shorting.

Good Luck! It's a tight fit behind there

DKOV -

Remove the HVAC/Radio trim, remove the HVAC switch assembly, look at the connector, find pin K and disconnect the wires from the connector so it can't ground that line.

If you don't you will get a Quad Driver error when you flip on the AC. It shouldn't cause any damage to the ECM although it should shutdown the other three circuits on that chip.

Hmmmm.... would it..... it's not worth analyzing right now. You need to cut that wire is you have connected the fans and AC to the ECM.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 05-19-2003).]

I think it's mroe complicated than that...

I noted that if you cut the wire it works like it should, if you don't cut the wire it stays on all the time and if you have the two wires and don't reconnect them to each other, it NEVER comes on.

DKOV -
DMS

i cut the green/white wire at the k position, but am still getting a code. can i read this from the ADL just like i could b4 the conversion?... referencing the 3.4 manual for codes?

also, the cooling fan is running continually, can't remember if i pointed that one out.

other than that she seems to be running good!

hoop

Yes you can check codes just like a Fiero by grounding the diagnostic terminal in the ALDL if you're using the 9396 ECM. You just have to check to see which terminal you wired the diagnostic to.

------------------
Alan Frazier
'86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC under construction
'84 2m4 daily driver

I'll bet it's a Quad driver error. I didn't disable all of them. No fan, CCP, something like that. I did disable the clutch switch error though.

You did reset the computer by unhooking the battery for at least 2 minutes, right?

Otherwise, the code will still be in memory.

Is the fan coming on and shutting off as it should? That's a good indicator if you've reworked the green/white wire correctly.

Let us know!

DKOV -

the battery gets diconected after every run, as the decklid isn't on the car, and i don't want the bat to run down.

TK and I believe that the problem is with the a/c pressure switch, and the need for it to be hooked up. so, 1st thing in the AM i plan to hook that up to the canister.

hopefully that will solve the problem.

hoop

Hoop, not to Jack your thread but i am not using the A/C on my car. will i have major probs with the wiring because of that. Also, what fuel pump are you running.

thanks

Rob

Is the idle supposed to get lower in a smooth way during warm up? I got curious when I read TK:s reply (the first one) and he listed the idle vs temp.

My v6 goes through 3 (I think) steps in idle. The steps are very noticeable. Is this normal or could it be a faulty temperature sensor? I also have a problem with the idle disappearing sometimes when the engine is warmed up.

Any suggestions?

/ Henrik

how does the idle "dissappear"? personaly, i think once i get the car on the road and over 35 mph, that the computer will get set and everything will settle down.

Rob, can't say that you will or won't hve problems... i left the v-6 fuel pump alone, but will change it next winter, probably.

hoop

The brown and gray wires need to be routed all the way to the front compartment for the AC pressure switch. You can install the stock threaded part into the schrader valve on the Fiero AC canister.

The green hangs loose. Just cap it and tuck it into the wiring loom.

As for the switch being the dash alarm... I don't think so. My switch is not plugged in at all. I'm not runnig AC on my car (for those extra couple of horses) and the wiring loom is just looped and tucked away in the engine compartment. The wire connector is just hanging there. No warning lights.

I don't think that's it. I could always be wrong too.

What code are you getting?

DKOV -

so, does it matter which wire i conect to which (ie. brown to blue, grey to green)?

hoop

That's weird I have a lt. grey, a black and a blue on my a/c high pressure switch. It does go here right?

What does the green wire you describe do DKOV?

------------------
Alan Frazier
'86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC under construction
'84 2m4 daily driver

quote Originally posted by neverendingproject:

you mean it doesn't go to the conector at the top (the one not circled)? if so, then i've been looking in the wrong place.

hoop

I'll review my notes again but the wiring loom I am referring to is from the 3.4L Engine harness... The green wire from that set of three is not used. According to my notes, the remaining pair needs to be lengthened and ran to the front and screwed into the Scrader Valve (the one that is circled in red).

Let me get comfirmation on that...

DKOV -

i don't see how the conector screws into the harness. hmmmm... DKOV, if you could snap a photo and post it, or anyone else that has a 3.4 with a/c, it would be most appreciated.

hoop

The actual switch just screws onto the schrader valve just like the one on the canister. I was talking about the TDC harness, those are the colors I have. Unless it's not a TDC harness...

------------------
Alan Frazier
'86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC under construction
'84 2m4 daily driver

so then i would have to add a switch that the fiero doesn't have?

hoop