Has anyone tried to remote mount the ignition control module (if it is even possible).

I'm thinking of doing this (if you guys think it is possible).

I was thinking that if heat is (which I think it is) the cause for the premature module failure then remote mounting it away from the heat of the engine compartment say for instance in the trunk (or anywhere for that matter) should correct the problem and prolong the life of the module.

If no one on here can see any problem with doing this I will attempt to mount mine in a box in the trunk of the fiero. All I should need to do is extend the length of the control module wires (the 2 connectors located on the outside of the distribitor and the hard one....the one on the inside of the distribitor) and route them to the trunk area. Then put my old module in the correct mounting location (under the distibitor cap to prevent moisture from entering the distribitor.

Anyone on here see a problem that this mounting could cause that i'm overlooking??? Has anyone tried this before???

Well thanks for the input!

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Keith F.

I think mounting a Peltier chip directly under it would be better. It would have to be on the outside of the distributor. This would suck away the heat from that part of the distributor, I just don't know if there is room to do this.

You can't just move it. It has to be mounted to a heat sink of some sort. In addition to the engine compartment heat, it makes it's *own* heat.
Having said that, I'm surprised that this hasn't been done before. You may have to twist (or shield) the leads going from the pickup coil to the module though. Otherwise, stray voltages could be induced. Might make your spark plugs fire at odd times.
The peltier also sounds like a good idea.

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Raydar

88 3.4 coupe. 17s, cut springs 'n all.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-02-2003).]

Peltier chip will also cause condensation inside the distributor cap and you would have to figure out how to get rid of the heat from the hot side. It is a good idea I just don’t think there is room.
Don’t aftermarket ignitions take some of the stress off the module? It would probably be more worth your while to do that then modifying your car and not being able to go back to stock if you have to.

Now what would you think about a Peltier chip sitting on top of the intake and using a fan under a scoop to keep it cool.
The great thing about aluminum is it dissipates heat. That is why aluminum is used in PC heat sinks. If you had a bank of Peltier chips mounted to the intake you could probably drop the temp of the intake and help keep the motor cool.

[This message has been edited by Jake_Dragon (edited 05-02-2003).]

You can do what I did to cool the module and dist. Add a piece of bendable tubing or anything else that will direct air from the air cooler pointed at the coil and position it to cool the dist. This works GREAT!

Another thing I did was go in the trunk and wire the small blower to blow whenever the engine is on. That way you always have cooler air blowing on the dist.....and alternator for that matter....which is NOT a bad thing either.....LOL.

Haven't replaced a module since I've made these mods on several diff Fieros. Good luck!

Phil

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87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
0-60 in 6.8 seconds!

Hmmmm... remote ignition module.... now there's a new idea

See: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20020825-2-020282.html

...and, nope - haven't tried it (yet). Since I'm both lucky and lazy, have never failed a module yet, and therefore it's tough to get motivated to try it out. One of these years...

FWIW, I still think it's a pretty good idea.

I see no reason it cant be done either. You can buy a cast aluminum heat sink at any electronics supply store. put the module in a plastic box mounted to the heat sink and extend the 4 wires (the 2 connectors). You would also have to run an extra wire to connect inside the distributor to the condenser mounted int the distr too. Someone should try it on an old beater/parts car to see if it works.

Thank for the input and other ideas as well!

Here is my plan in a little detail......

I was thinking of taking the good control module and mounting it in a small computer powersupply case (gutted of course). On the module I was planning on using a modified P-II heatsink and fan then make 3 extension cord type wiring setups. The existing ignition wiring and connectors will remain intacted! For the end of my extension cord that plugs into the module that itself will be gotten from a junkyard fiero (i'll take all 3 connectors from the car). The problem will be finding the connectors to plug into the pre-existing ignition wiring (I may need to try and make these...if I can't find anything that will mate correctly). So basically what i'll have will be 3 wire extenders with a contol module plug on one side and a connector to plug into the pre-existing igition wiring on the other side of all 3 of them.
I will also mount an old control module at the factory location (under the distibitor cap) so there isn't a big hole for water and dirt to get into!

I wont splice into the existing igintion wiring incase I need to go back to the stock setup (easy swap back....just remove homemade wiring setup and remount the module under the distibitor cap)!
This way if something doesn't work correctly I will easily be able to go back to how it was setup!

[This message has been edited by camon (edited 05-02-2003).]

This has been done for one of the motors... L4 I think. I forget who did it.

Ford has taken to mounting their TFI modules remotely. I don't see why you can't do it with GM modules. Even the remote mount TFI modules are having problems with heat in some cars. So don't just assume this will solve your GM... It's worth trying.

You don't need a case and you don't want a fan. LEave it in the open. There is plenty of air moving around the engine bay.

PC fans aren't made for outdoor use. It will eventually fail and the case will block natural air flow. You could easily burn up the module that way.

There is also an electrical catch to this... You MUST provide a ground between the module and the block. The module has TWO grounds.

The wire grounds the reference signal and isn't inteneded to carry full coil current.

Coil current is grounded to the block thru the module's mounting hardware. You will have to add a wire between the heatsink and block for this ground.

I don't know what kind of wire you need to extend the pickup coil leads. I would think you'd want at least twisted pair for that. You might want shielded wire. (two conductors plus shield.)

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RIP Crew of Columbia. 01-Feb-03

I've seen posts in other threads that state and aftermarket ignition systems reduce the ignition modules roll to a trigger and this reduces the heat and stress on the module, but I can't verify this myself.

[This message has been edited by johnt671 (edited 05-04-2003).]

Module as trigger.... yes that should be true of systems like MSD... Can't say for all of them.

MSD etc simply isn't needed for many aplications. It's bloody expensive if you don't need it. Remote mounting the module is a fairly inexpensive solution.

If should also be posible to build a remote driver for the coil and leave the module where it is. I can't think off the top of my head how to do that but it should be doable. That would eliminate any posible problem of pickup coil wiring. A simple driver shouldn't cost a huge amount to build.

I have to scan a pic but I’ll be right back...

I’ve done remote mount modules for years, just not on GMs.

I’ve been thinking of doing this myself on my car, but as stu said so elegantly “I'm both lucky and lazy”