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| The White Bug (Page 8/46) |
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ericjon262
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APR 28, 02:01 AM
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glad to see it moving! it sounds nice in the video too, a little quiet, but nice nonetheless. ------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html
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claude dalpe
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APR 28, 11:12 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
I'll be sure to give updates as this engine grows up!
This evening, with a warmed-up engine, I focused on getting the car driveable in the idle to 3000 RPM range, for calm neighborhood driving. Learning to crawl before ripping through the gears.
Some observations:
This engine needs a lot more idle airflow than a stock 2.8; I'll need to adjust the idle screw on the throttle body to give the engine the air it needs.
While cruising around in the 10-25 mph range, in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear with the throttle barely pressed, the engine would start bucking, oscillating in unison with the windup/backlash of the drivetrain. Making sure the fuel tables were smooth and setting the AFR to 12.5 suppressed the bucking tendency to an acceptable level. For now, I'm OK with that. Later on when the rest of the tune is sorted out, I'll look into leaning out this low-speed cruise.
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Try to lower your timing to the distributor for your RPM from 500 to 2000 RPM at your map table: KPA / RPM from 20 to 35 KPA
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La fiera
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APR 28, 11:49 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
This engine needs a lot more idle airflow than a stock 2.8; I'll need to adjust the idle screw on the throttle body to give the engine the air it needs.
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You went from a 3.0" to a 3.31" stroke. That change in stroke also changed your rod ratio or rod angularity.
The result is increased piston speed and more swept volume which gives the engine more lungs.
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ericjon262
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APR 28, 12:27 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by La fiera:
You went from a 3.0" to a 3.31" stroke. That change in stroke also changed your rod ratio or rod angularity.
The result is increased piston speed and more swept volume which gives the engine more lungs.
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Patrick isn't running a stock ECU, he has an MS3, so he needs to build a base tune more or less from scratch.------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html
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Will
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APR 28, 12:47 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by La fiera:
You went from a 3.0" to a 3.31" stroke. That change in stroke also changed your rod ratio or rod angularity.
The result is increased piston speed and more swept volume which gives the engine more lungs.
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I think what he was noting is that he has compensated for the change in displacement in the basic engine data in his ECU--the engine would not have started otherwise--but that there's also the mechanical adjustment for base idle airflow on the throttle body, and he hasn't updated that yet.
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La fiera
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APR 28, 05:00 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by ericjon262:
Patrick isn't running a stock ECU, he has an MS3, so he needs to build a base tune more or less from scratch.
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So do I, and he doesnt have to build it from scratch. In the MS when you enter your engine parameters it calculates fueling tables for you.
He should have let the "Autotune" feature do the tuning for him while driving and then he can go back and smooth everything out.
The one thing that the MS will not calculate is the timing table.It does save a lot of time.
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pmbrunelle
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APR 28, 11:53 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by ericjon262:
glad to see it moving! it sounds nice in the video too, a little quiet, but nice nonetheless.
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Volume is difficult to convey in a video. However, I do have an SPL meter with A-weighting.
We could make up a PFF-standard test procedure, since the standard test procedures (i.e. SAE, ISO) are hidden behind paywalls.
| quote | Originally posted by claude dalpe:
Try to lower your timing to the distributor for your RPM from 500 to 2000 RPM at your map table: KPA / RPM from 20 to 35 KPA |
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I have changed my timing table, but I did not have much opportunity to test it. The most important problem to solve now is with the crankshaft sensor malfunction at 3000 RPM.
| quote | Originally posted by La fiera:
So do I, and he doesnt have to build it from scratch. In the MS when you enter your engine parameters it calculates fueling tables for you.
He should have let the "Autotune" feature do the tuning for him while driving and then he can go back and smooth everything out.
The one thing that the MS will not calculate is the timing table.It does save a lot of time.
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I use the autotune feature for the VE table, but there are still many other settings that need to be adjusted!
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ericjon262
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APR 29, 01:15 AM
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is your crank position wire shielded? the position signal wire is supposed to be shielded according to the MS manuals, so that may be something to look at. I use Tefzel sheilded wire from Prowire for all of my CKP and CMP circuits. ------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html
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pmbrunelle
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APR 29, 08:56 AM
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The wiring run from my VR sensor to the converter box is an unshielded twisted pair:
Converter box:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/142133.html#p7
From the converter box to the MS I have normal untwisted unshielded wires. Since this run carries a low-impedance digital signal, I didn't think it needed any particular attention.
On various forums, the Maxim MAX9924 was all the rage. People said that it just works with no fuss (more reliably than the MS VR input), so I decided to try it.
At 3000 RPM, MS occasionally stops seeing the double-notch on the 7x reluctor wheel (it sees a single-notch instead).
Now I have to play Where's Waldo to find where along the signal chain the double-notch disappears, by probing at different points with my oscilloscope.
The double-notch worked when I cranked the engine at 200 RPM... in hindsight that was not a sufficient test.
On the plus side, the cam sensor seems to work properly.
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Will
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APR 29, 09:50 AM
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