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| What do I need for replacing a water pump? (Page 6/8) |
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 13, 04:49 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Is there enough protruding to get ahold of it with vice-grips? If so, this would be a good time to soak it with penetrating oil (not WD-40) and try to get it out.
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I was actually going to leave it as it is. I thought I might be causing more problems trying to get it out than just leaving it in.
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Personally, I wouldn't use thread "lock" on any of the water pump bolts. I'd use anti-seize on all of them except for the one that goes into the water jacket.
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I'll only use the Locktite on bolt #4, and only use anti-seize on the bolts going in the timing cover (2, 9 and 11). And use a little oil on all other bolts.
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Patrick
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MAY 13, 04:56 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
And use a little oil on all other bolts.
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I don't know why you'd want to use oil... but nevertheless, The Ogre should be along shortly to remind us that torque readings are thrown off unless all threads are clean and dry.
[EDIT] I re-checked page 1, and sure enough, The Ogre already commented on this.  (... although I'm not 100% sure what he meant by "w/o" below.)
| quote | Originally posted by theogre Here:
Bolt Torque specs, most need Clean Dry holes and bolts. Use a torque wrench w/o that is useless and can even break bolts or strip threads. Anti-seize and thread sealer is lube during install and throw out most torque specs.
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[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-13-2024).]
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 13, 05:13 PM
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Patrick
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MAY 13, 05:30 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
I actually got that from this post.
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Are you going to listen to a banned member or to one still in good standing?
Both JazzMan and The Ogre have warned about torque readings being affected when anything is applied to bolt threads. I hope you saw what I had earlier added to my previous post Here.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-13-2024).]
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 14, 02:08 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Are you going to listen to a banned member or to one still in good standing? |
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Well, he was banned for being an ******* , not for not knowing what he was talking about when it came to Fieros.  Using a little bit of engine oil kinda makes sense. It doesn't change torque readings much and will help bolting the bolts in since they are no longer new, smooth bolts.
| quote | Both JazzMan and The Ogre have warned about torque readings being affected when anything is applied to bolt threads. I hope you saw what I had earlier added to my previous post Here.
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I'm planning to use slightly lower torque than stated. So at least I know I'm in the ballpark.
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fierofool
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MAY 14, 08:45 AM
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If you will bump the head of the bolt with a brass hammer or use a brass drift, it will help to break the bond. You can then use a few good shots of AC refrigerant on that broken bolt to help loosen it further. Place the end of the hose over the end, open the valve on the can and give it a 10-15 second shot and try to remove it. The extreme cold of the refrigerant will shrink the bolt, allowing it to come loose. Dry ice will work, too but I think in this situation, you may not have a large enough stud to be that effective.
I would suggest some plumber's pipe dope applied to the water jacket bolt. It's made for that purpose. And YES! In the machine shop, we never lubricated any fasteners that required a specific torque. All bores were chased with a thread tap to clean them and the fasteners were installed dry.
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creaky78
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MAY 14, 10:50 AM
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When I tighten threaded fasteners with a torque wrench, I always make sure the threads are clean and free of rust and crud. I also use a lubricant, the majority of the time anti-seize. Here's a link to an interesting article on the subject.
https://www.reliabilitysolu...e-Threaded-Fasteners
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 15, 12:16 PM
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The taps I have aren't anywhere near long enough to be able to clean the holes entirely so I just took some long bolts an cut a few slots in them:
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 15, 12:20 PM
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For future reference, the thread sizes are:
M6 x 1.0
M8 x 1.25
M10 x 1.5
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Patrick
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MAY 15, 02:25 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
I just took some long bolts an cut a few slots in them:
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Not bad. How'd you cut the slots?
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