PFF - Pennock's Fiero Forum, PDA Edition

LK9+F40 (Saab turbo LSJ) swap (Page 6/9)

Will

MAR 03, 08:48 AM

quote

Originally posted by KillerFrogg:

a grinder got away from me and got my leg on the way into orbit and I ended up with 8 stitches and 13 staples.

That beats my best grinder injury story.

ericjon262

MAR 03, 06:54 PM

quote

Originally posted by KillerFrogg:

Building on the last few posts here, I am getting the throttle body adapter CnC'd in the next week or so. More on that later.

the other option would be to use your print as a mold and have the part cast, something like that doesn't appear to be too far outside of the real of possibility for a small casting operation.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

Will

MAR 04, 01:31 PM

quote

Originally posted by ericjon262:

the other option would be to use your print as a mold and have the part cast, something like that doesn't appear to be too far outside of the real of possibility for a back yard casting operation.

FTFY

ericjon262

MAR 04, 05:47 PM

quote

Originally posted by Will:

FTFY

back yard is also accurate, I'm fairly confident that I could pull it off with my small furnace and some slight changes to the pattern.

msweldon

MAR 05, 12:28 AM

Let me know what ZZP says about the axle with the reluctor wheel with sensor... they would not sell the individual parts for this to me when I inquired a little over a year ago for my LF3/LF4 with saab F40 swap. DarylM went with shrink wrapped magnets and a hall sensor on his saab intermediate shaft. I'm going with a Davies Industries reluctor wheel bored out to fit the intermediate shaft and the factory VSS.

Let me know if you need more information on the Davies reluctor wheel.

M

KillerFrogg

MAR 18, 12:03 PM

quote

Originally posted by 86FieroCentPa:

Just thought I'd take a moment to bump this and see if there's been any updates. Looks like we're both doing very similar swaps; LK9/LSJ and F40 with Haltech standalone ECM.

Here

Cool to see someone else doing something very similar. Lots of progress in a short time as well. Plans for your speedo? The Haltech will drive the tach no big deal i believe, though I don't remember if I tested that actually.
As I type this i'm ordering some parts to put together a converter circuit to to go from the single ended output form one of the Haltech outputs to a +-12v signal to drive the factory speedo. I'll do a post about it once it get it working.

quote

Originally posted by ericjon262:

the other option would be to use your print as a mold and have the part cast

It did cross my mind but I have no experience with casting, and would have to put it on a mill anyway to face the mounting surfaces. And I expect to have to modify it as well, I know at the very least it needs a bracket for the throttle cable and I have no idea how or what the plan with that is yet. Welding on cast AL is not fun. I've got access to some CNC's and can get the part made for the cost of stock and tooling, then they will buy the tooling off me after if its still in good shape. + the bling of billet parts on the back of the engine no one will really be able to see lol.

quote

Originally posted by msweldon:

Let me know what ZZP says about the axle with the reluctor wheel with sensor...

M

Same answer for me when I talked to them when I ordered the a bunch of parts from them. Not a big deal just would have been a time saver. Really I just wanted their VSS sensor bracket but I can make that with out too much issue. The tone wheel I am just going to make when I get there, probably have it be a clamp on deal or something.

Next progress post will be short about the fuel hanger. Short one but its about all I have at the moment.
Removed the original pump holder and made a new bracket, and will post the drawings to go with it.

[This message has been edited by KillerFrogg (edited 03-18-2020).]

ericjon262

MAR 19, 09:37 PM

quote

Originally posted by KillerFrogg:
It did cross my mind but I have no experience with casting, and would have to put it on a mill anyway to face the mounting surfaces. And I expect to have to modify it as well, I know at the very least it needs a bracket for the throttle cable and I have no idea how or what the plan with that is yet. Welding on cast AL is not fun. I've got access to some CNC's and can get the part made for the cost of stock and tooling, then they will buy the tooling off me after if its still in good shape. + the bling of billet parts on the back of the engine no one will really be able to see lol.

you should add the cable bracket into your drawing and have it machined while you're at it.

KillerFrogg

MAR 24, 09:24 PM

Messy post, but I figured id post now since its working. I'll drop another once I have things cleaned up and in its more permanent form.

The parts I ordered to work on the speedo came in so I dragged out the ECU and mess of a naked harness that goes with it.
Took some poking but did I did get one of the generic outputs to drive the speedo.

Last week when I was working on making a signal converter from scratch I was talking to another friend about some old robotics hardware.
Long story short we were talking about using RS232 vs RS485 for something and I remembered that RS232 is a zero crossing +-12v (or so) signal, exactly what the speedo needs to work correctly. Went looking at how the RS232 drivers work and their differential voltage from signal source generators blah blah blah.
A few googles later and ended up looking at a TTL to RS232 converter. Most that are at the top of searches are for arduino and are for 3.3 or 5v.
Found one on SparkFun that is voltage agnostic and will deal with just about what ever supply voltage you shove into it. Got some parts on order and got it in today.

The part is basically not documented at all so it took a bit to figure out even with as simple as it is, but as off label of a use as this is I'm not surprised.
But I did get it working 100%. There is one small issue but that is on the ECU and not the signal adapter. With how I have it setup right now as long as the ECU is on it outputs a 1hz pulse.
The conversion works out to 0.9mph/hz input at the speedo. So with it just sitting it would only gain 0.9mi on the odometer an hour, and that is IF the odometer motor is sensitive to pulse rates that slow.

Ok back on track.
Here is the part from SprakFun
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8780
Needs 1 other parts to work, one 1uF 50v or 25v cap, I have a 50v in since thats what I have but its only 12v peak/peak so a 25v would be ok. It goes in between the output of the converter and the speedo.

Lots stuff bit bottom middle, I'm feeding in 60hz from the signal generator in my scope meter, I have the ECU calibrated to match, so it thinks its going 54mph to match the calibration of the original sender on the Fiero. This will change once the setup is in the car with the actual tone wheel that needs to be mounted to the jack shaft. Its outputting a 60hz signal to the converter, and its doing its job and driving the speedo at 54mph. Tested from 1hz all the way up to the 127hz max that the speedo will take and it works cleanly all the way through.

[This message has been edited by KillerFrogg (edited 03-03-2021).]

86FieroCentPa

MAR 25, 05:47 PM

That's a pretty ingenious setup; I haven't even started thinking too hard about how I'll drive the dashboard with my Haltech. Definitely filing this one away for future use.

KillerFrogg

MAR 29, 10:39 PM

The speedo has been hooked up and ticking away on a sweep from 0-100mph for the last week now and hasn't missed a beat.
I couldn't remember if I has tested the tach with the haltech yet so I got that out and hooked it up with the line I had set to the tach output and lacking a running engine, I set it up to do a sweep on ECU start up and it works as expected wired straight into the signal input on the tach so that makes life a bit easier.
I did find that the volts gauge on my tach cluster is not accurate. Read a bit over 1v high. Given I don't have that much else to do at the moment ill probably mess with that if I feel motivated but its really not a big deal.