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Back in the Fiero Game after a few years by 86FieroCentPa
Started on: 12-08-2019 07:31 PM
Replies: 32 (837 views)
Last post by: KillerFrogg on 03-24-2020 09:41 PM
86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post12-08-2019 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Back when I was in High School (Class of 2008) I got a 1986 Pontiac Fiero (4 cyl, MT). It was a fun car and I always had big plans for it, but they never panned out. A few years into college I got an Engineering Co-op and needed a reliable car to get me from point A to point B. While my parents were gracious enough to have stored my Fiero in their garage while I was at school, I couldn't afford to get a new car without selling the Fiero. It was a sad day for me, but I always figured I'd pick up another one.

Nearly 10 years later that's finally come true. This time around I've found a 1988 Fiero (4 cyl, MT) with 60k-ish miles. It's not flawless, but it has a good body, decent paint, and seems to have been taken care of mechanically. I've driven it in it's stock state for the summer and fall and now it's time to start the big plans I had so long ago.

I've gathered the following parts to date:
-Ecotec 2.0L LSJ
-ZZP Dual Pass Intercooler Endplate
-GM F40 6 speed Transmission
-Haltech Elite 1500 w/ Wideband O2
-Self-designed strut tower lifting plates
-Harbor Freight Gantry Crane

Major parts to be selected yet include:
-Flywheel/Clutch
-Axles
-Fuel system


While I've always been quick to turn a wrench on a car or anything else, this is my most ambitious project to date. I'll be planning on updating this thread with pictures, ideas, and questions as it progresses. My goal is to have the drivetrain mechanically complete by early spring 2020 and to move on the electronics from there.

Today I started on the process of losing my cradle drop virginity. Everything disconnected and cradle bolts broken free.


The LSJ I picked up to swap in


0-mile F40 from ZZP


My planned Fiero-hoisting setup




A better look at the swapee

[This message has been edited by 86FieroCentPa (edited 12-23-2019).]

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Raydar
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Report this Post12-08-2019 10:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That's a freaking beautiful car. One of my favorite 87-88 colors, too.
I also own an 88 coupe. Planning an LQ1 swap.

But yours is much prettier... Good luck with your project. Mine is going to take a while. Have to move, first.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-08-2019).]

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Report this Post12-08-2019 10:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:
But yours is much prettier...


Prettier maybe, but that looks like the unusual WO2 package..(only offered in red or white). Is It?
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turbo86se
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Report this Post12-09-2019 08:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for turbo86seClick Here to Email turbo86seSend a Private Message to turbo86seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't know, both those cars are beautiful. White has always been my favorite color on a car, but the med red is beautiful on a Fiero.

86Fiero...You're only an hour or so away from me, man if you need another pair of hands for anything, let me know! Be awesome to help!
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Report this Post12-11-2019 07:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Looks like a nice project. I have yet to see anyone on PFF actually finish an LSJ swap. For the F40, get the axles that came with your engine from a Cobalt SS supercharged. The turbocharged axles will not fit Fiero hubs. Also, make sure you get the latest version of the cam chain tensioner, early versions led to cam chain failure. Good luck with it, thanks for posting this.

------------------
86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

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Report this Post12-11-2019 07:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 86FieroCentPa:

My planned Fiero-hoisting setup...




I'll give you an "A" for effort... but there are two holes on the front trunk wall (under the carpet) that are perfect for hooking a lifting chain into.
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86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post12-11-2019 08:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This evening I was able to progress a bit further


I have to give credit to Nathan Bittinger and Toddster for creating the guide I've been using for disconnecting everything and a engine dolly design. See it here
 
quote
Originally posted by wftb:

Looks like a nice project. I have yet to see anyone on PFF actually finish an LSJ swap. For the F40, get the axles that came with your engine from a Cobalt SS supercharged. The turbocharged axles will not fit Fiero hubs. Also, make sure you get the latest version of the cam chain tensioner, early versions led to cam chain failure. Good luck with it, thanks for posting this.



Thanks for confirming that the Cobalt SS Supercharged axles will work; I'd seen hints and ideas that they would work but was looking for some more information. Unfortunately I'll have to hunt those down at some point; this LSJ came from someone that was planning on swapping it into an off road buggy before deciding to go another direction. With that said I am planning on fully custom axles from The Driveshaft Shop or some other outfit at some point

The tensioner is a good reminder. I've had a number of Ecotec engines in my and family households over the years and I've done a few tensioner replacements.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I'll give you an "A" for effort... but there are two holes on the front trunk wall (under the carpet) that are perfect for hooking a lifting chain into.


I've been a lurker and researcher around here for awhile and I'm aware of all of the different philosophies (mostly trunk latch or trunk wall holes) for lifting the rear of a Fiero. While I realize that both methods have been used with success by dozens of people, I'm more comfortable loading something that was designed to take high vertical loads. That and it gave me an excuse to brush up on my Autodesk Fusion 360 skills and test out eMachineShop on a fairly non-critical part.
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Report this Post12-11-2019 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice find and it looks to be in good shape. As for the Ecotec swap, most of them that I have seen were of the very early N/A variety but the LSJ should be doable. Roger Thelin makes swap mounts and parts for that engine. I would check with Roger to see if he has mounts brackets and other items needed for that year engine swap. That engine provided decent power for the Cobalt and Saturn Ion Redline. Stock they ran low 14's in the 1/4 mile. Should work real well in a Fiero.
Good luck with the project and hope you decide to join us and show your work at Fieros at Carlisle in June 2020.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Report this Post12-11-2019 08:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 86FieroCentPa:

I've been a lurker and researcher around here for awhile and I'm aware of all of the different philosophies (mostly trunk latch or trunk wall holes) for lifting the rear of a Fiero. While I realize that both methods have been used with success by dozens of people...


Over the course of 35 years, I suspect it's been a whole lot more than "dozens of people".

I wouldn't trust the trunk latch method myself, but IMO the Fiero's trunk wall is more than robust enough for lifting purposes. Some people are adamant that those holes were actually put there for that very purpose.
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86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post12-17-2019 10:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Over this past weekend the engine came out



The only real hiccup were the rear cradle bolts. The sheet metal capturing the "Witches Hat" completely came apart. I ended up cutting a 2" hole in the frame so that I could get some heat on the bolts and grab them with a vice-grip. From there it was as simple as lifting the car up and rolling the engine out. I'll need to work on separating the Iron Duke and transmission from the cradle so that I can start coming up with a mounting solution for the Ecotec.

Anybody in the market for a 60k-ish mile Iron Duke and Isuzu transmission? It'll eventually get posted for sale here and elsewhere once I have it dismounted.

[This message has been edited by 86FieroCentPa (edited 12-23-2019).]

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post12-17-2019 05:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 86FieroCentPa:

Over this past weekend the engine came out

Capturing the "Witches Hat" completely came apart. I ended up cutting a 2" hole in the frame so that I could get some heat on the bolts and grab them with a vice-grip. From there it was as simple as lifting the car up and rolling the engine out. I'll need to work on separating the Iron Duke and transmission from the cradle so that I can start coming up with a mounting solution for the Ecotec.
.

No need to butcher cut the frame to access the rear cradle nuts. You just remove the rear facia and you can access them within the frame with a faucet wrench. Works well every time.
------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 02-23-2020).]

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Report this Post12-17-2019 05:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Dennis LaGrua

13127 posts
Member since May 2000
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 86FieroCentPa:

Over this past weekend the engine came out

Capturing the "Witches Hat" completely came apart. I ended up cutting a 2" hole in the frame so that I could get some heat on the bolts and grab them with a vice-grip. From there it was as simple as lifting the car up and rolling the engine out. I'll need to work on separating the Iron Duke and transmission from the cradle so that I can start coming up with a mounting solution for the Ecotec.
.

No need to butcher cut the frame to access the rear cradle nuts. You just remove the rear facia and you can access them within the frame with a faucet wrench. Works well every time.

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 12-17-2019).]

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Report this Post12-17-2019 06:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome back to the madness...again! Ha

Good luck on that swap, I do hope you keeps us up to date with information and pictures so that we can all live vicariously through you.

Btw, I used a chain through bracing in the trunk area to lift both my fieros up. Worked like a charm and it also allowed my cherry picker to be further back. I would rather have your hoist for sure. I bet it gives much better access to swing that cradle out.
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Report this Post12-18-2019 12:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Pontiac Fan 89Send a Private Message to Pontiac Fan 89Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know lightspeedfieros have been working on an LSJ swap. They have a lot of content on YouTube, I'd reccomend checking it out.
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Report this Post12-18-2019 01:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I used the latch hoop a few times, the trunk firewall cross-brace once.

I have used the top of the strut towers on dozens of swaps.

Your lifting bracket design is very good, stick with it.

Less chance of failure when picking up the car with drivetrain installed, damaging the space-frame or having an injury.
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Report this Post12-23-2019 06:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DimeMachineSend a Private Message to DimeMachineEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
1. I just stumbled on this swap and will be following - thanks for sharing!
2. I have used the trunk latch several times through the past 25 years but each time I have to bend it back down with a BFH a couple inches. In my case I think the metal has is starting to fatigue a little and I will be using an alternate lifting point next time.
3. Nice work on your custom lifting plates - Laser cut?
4. Should be a heck of a nice ride.
5. What do your frame rails look like inside the trunk area behind the carpet on both sides? This is where they tend to rust the most (in Minnesota anyways...)
6. Nice to get that IRON DUKE out. In 2020, that thing needs to go for sure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good luck!!

------------------
84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

[This message has been edited by DimeMachine (edited 12-23-2019).]

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86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post12-23-2019 08:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Over the past week or so I've really just been doing some odds and ends

Got the old drivetrain off of the cradle



Got the exhaust, engine mounts, suspension, etc off of the cradle



And spent far too much time on this guy:
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

3-Jaw Puller was no match for it, heat and beat only succeeded in putting about 1/8" of slop into the bearing. I'm going to see if a local machine shop can press the axle out


As far as cutting into the frame goes, I think that a hole saw leaves it pretty tidy


I know some that have done the hole saw method have left the hole there without issue. I'll probably be welding a patch back int there once the swap is complete. The picture also gives a pretty good look at the rust situation. Not quite "no rust" but nothing catastrophic. Here's a look inside the trunk.



 
quote
Originally posted by Pontiac Fan 89:

I know lightspeedfieros have been working on an LSJ swap. They have a lot of content on YouTube, I'd reccomend checking it out.

Thanks for the tip. I'd seen their channel but not checked it out yet. There's another YouTube channel doing a pretty good restoration of an 84; Check it out here


 
quote
Originally posted by DimeMachine:
...
3. Nice work on your custom lifting plates - Laser cut?
...


I'm not actually sure what the process was for making these, though the edges look more machined than cut. I actually used eMachineshop to have them made. You send in the CAD or make a drawing using their software, select a material and they issue a quote. This was my first time using their service and I was pretty happy with it. I can see myself getting some more parts made that way in the future.


Thank you all for your interest, insight, and support. It'll soon be time to get into some fabricating
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Report this Post12-23-2019 09:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I usually use a cutoff wheel and just cut a flap in the lower frame rail, bend it down for access to the witch-hat nut and the fold it back up, tack weld and seam seal the area.
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Report this Post12-24-2019 09:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierobearClick Here to Email fierobearSend a Private Message to fierobearEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
3-Jaw Puller was no match for it, heat and beat only succeeded in putting about 1/8" of slop into the bearing. I'm going to see if a local machine shop can press the axle out


Wait, so is the half shaft rust-welded to the bearing at the splines??
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Report this Post12-24-2019 05:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

Prettier maybe, but that looks like the unusual WO2 package..(only offered in red or white). Is It?


Good eye. Yes, it is.
I'm kind of torn between keeping it looking "stock" (such that it is) or going back with the dark lowers. It's getting painted Lexus/Toyota pearl white at some point.

I still like the medium red.
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Report this Post01-08-2020 07:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A Happy New Year to everyone!

I don't have much in the way of photo updates. Since my last post I've:

-De-loomed the factory Ecotec Harness and labeled all the wires
-Powered up my Haltech for the first time
-Ordered and received a full set of Ecotec Motor Mounts and Late Model F40 Transmission mounts from Roger Thelin. I've only eyeball fit everything, but it all looks to fit great
-Ordered a 2.2L Ecotec oil pan to accommodate the Thelin mounts

I'm excited to get the motor and transmission in place so I can keep making progress.
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Report this Post01-10-2020 07:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice project you have going although I'm not familiar with the LSJ conversion. I completed my 3800sc swap last year. Some years ago before I had a lift I needed some exhaust work done and found a place in Oxford called Jenning's Muffler Shop. Just up the street from there was a Fiero for sale at the Sunoco station. I did check it out and now I'm wondering if that was the 1986 Pontiac Fiero you used to have.

Good luck on your project.

Spoon

------------------
"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

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86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post01-24-2020 06:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Progress has been slow, especially this past week while I was down for the count with a fever of 104. However, I try to get a few small tasks done here and there.

I got a jackshaft from a Buick Regal bolted up to the Ecotec block, as well as the 2.2L oilpan test-fitted so that the Thelin front engine mount can go on. As best as I can tell the Thelin mount was designed for the Cobalt SS Jackshaft, which I haven't had any luck coming across at a reasonable price. Saab/Ecotec jackshafts are a dime a dozen, but I settled on the Regal one for the time being since that's where my transmission came from. The mount required a bit of grinding to accommodate the different shape of the support bearing




If you're of a weak constitution or are disturbed by an 88 cradle being cut up, avert your eyes

The Thelin Ecotec brackets require the use of a weld-in cradle reinforcement and the partial removal of the forward crossmember. I went ahead and tacked a length of angle in the middle of the cradle to keep it from flexing too much during the surgery. I'll need to spend some quality time trimming the new crossmember to fit before burning it in.



 
quote
Originally posted by fierobear:


Wait, so is the half shaft rust-welded to the bearing at the splines??


Sorry; missed this before. You've got the size of it, that thing was not going anywhere. The local tire shop was able to press it out using their hydraulic press
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86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post01-30-2020 09:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Tonight I made some big (for me) progress. It was time to undertake my biggest welding project to date; the new cradle crossmember. When I settled in to work this evening I figured I'd just work on the fitment





The box section didn't quite fit the side rails of the cradle the way I liked



So a bit more massaging was in order






Now was the moment of truth; did I want to burn it in tonight? I hadn't really been planning on it, but there was really no time like the present



And as they say, a grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't




In all honesty, the cradle is just being stored outside for the moment so I wanted to get something on the welds before they rusted. Before final assembly I think I'll have the cradle media blasted and coated. I've got a few steps between here and there though; starting with test fitting the LSJ and F40 to my modified cradle. Hopefully I'll have time to take a stab at that this weekend.
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Report this Post01-31-2020 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroJimmySend a Private Message to FieroJimmyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Before you go much further, I would recommend test fitting the cradle back under the car. There have been several people who did N* swaps who braced their cradles before welding and still found they pulled the front mounts inwards. It'll be easier to correct it now, before you have it refinished and have the driveline on it.
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Report this Post02-21-2020 07:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Progress has been slow but steady; I’ve done some test fitting of the cradle assembly into the car and ran into issues. The next goal is to have the engine/transmission mounted and 4 bolts mounting the cradle to the frame.

Here’s just a little teaser from one of the test fits
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Report this Post02-23-2020 06:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This weekend I managed to get everything tweaked and adjusted so that the cradle can be reattached to the chassis. While I did use a "bolt-in (with minor welding)" set of mounts, I couldn't find a way to get everything lined up so that all the mounting points were tight and the engine and transmission fit in the engine bay. The issue was the entire assembly seemed about an inch too far to the drivers side. Note the contact in the lower left part of the image



I figured I'd just need to create some additional movement to the passenger side, so I extended the rear transmission mounting slots about 1/2"



After another test fit this showed promise; now I could get the cradle down to the mounting points. However, I was doing this with the engine front mount supported by wood blocks and not on the weld-in crossmember. It would appear to me that the mounting pad on the crossmember needed to be about 1 inch or so further to the passenger side. So out came the cutoff wheel



While I was making this modification I figured there was no sense in constraining my options, so rather than clean up and re-weld the old bracket I made a new mount out of two pieces of structural steel welded together. I made it a bit longer in case I needed to relocate the mounting holes.

After another test fit it became apparent that the snout of the supercharger would be precisely in the same place as the passenger side hinge box. I did some clearancing to get it to fit for the moment. I think I'll need to make a few more cuts before making it final. I'll probably end up changing to a gas strut system, or maybe even a prop rod. I like the FieroGuru hinge box elimination too. A few options to consider down the road.



Now for the payoff; it fits!











I did cheat a little, the rear cradle mounts are lined up but the fronts need to come up about 1" in order for them to be "in place". The only place this might be an issue is the supercharger snout which as I said I plan on addressing in the near future. Part of the reason the front cradle mounts don't slide right in are these:



When I did the initial engine removal the front air dam was starting to touch the ground. Knowing that I'd have the car up and down quite a few times I knew I needed to lift the front end to keep from damaging anything.

Up next will be a day sandblasting parts, then I can start assembling the suspension to start figuring out what to do with axles. I could also start piecing together the engine harness now that it's located pretty much in its final location.
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SteveMushynsky
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Report this Post03-06-2020 02:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SteveMushynskySend a Private Message to SteveMushynskyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just found this thread. Good skills you have,there, 86FieroCentPa

Thank you for posting this. I am in the 'cleaning out my garage to make room' & gather materials phase of a planned swap of an Ecotec Turbo 2,0 into an '84 2M4 with an '86 SE parts donor car. I intend to use an F35 5-sp MT.

I look forward to seeing your future updates.

------------------
Steve Mushynsky

1984 Fiero 2M4
34K miles

1986 Fiero SE I4 (donor now)
Lots of good miles. One very bad mile.

1987 Fiero
Tried to kill me (gone to a 'better place')
Prior owner failed to tighten a bolt. Trailing arm separated at 70 mph

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86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post03-15-2020 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A few updates to share....

Fuel System
I ended up going with a fully custom fuel system. Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump mounted in a new Fiero Store sending unit. Earls -8AN line and fittings to an Aeromotive fuel filter. From there it goes to a OTTP Billet fuel rail and then onto an Aeromotive Compact regulator. I started some of the plumbing this weekend






Intercooling
The LSJ intake manifold utilizes 4 Laminova heat exchangers for intercooling. From the factory they run the cores in series which under high load/heat is known to make the last exchanger fairly inefficient. ZZP offers a new endplate that sets the system up as 2 sets of 2 parallel paths. I've cleaned the the Laminova cores and installed the endplate, but that's fairly easy. As anybody that wants to add an intercooler to their Fiero knows, the hard part is where to mount the heat exchanger. I'm not saying this is the best solution, but its the one that I've come up with.









I have to say, I think I've achieved one of of my favorite looks. The exterior will look completely stock, but if you look closely in the grill you'll see a big honking air to water heat exchanger; hinting at what's going on. In this case I went with Frozen Boost Type 101 (26x7x3.5). I'll be plumbing it to the back with Earls -10 hose along the heater and A/C lines. To be detailed in a future post.


The list of systems to get in order keeps shrinking. The next big one will be the clutch. I opted for a Spec Stage 3+ for a 2011 Buick Regal. Mounting the Clutch and Flywheel won't be that big of a deal, but deciding how I want to get the F40 Hydraulic Throwout Bearing plumbed to the clutch pedal might be. I'll also have to check the TOB height and make sure I wont be over extending it. I know I'm not the first to attempt an F40; if anybody out there has experience or a good thread for me to read be sure to post it.
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turbo86se
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Report this Post03-17-2020 06:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for turbo86seClick Here to Email turbo86seSend a Private Message to turbo86seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
PM sent regarding F40
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86FieroCentPa
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Report this Post03-17-2020 12:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86FieroCentPaClick Here to Email 86FieroCentPaSend a Private Message to 86FieroCentPaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by turbo86se:

PM sent regarding F40


Thank you for the information; you put me in touch with a good resource. For everyone else, there's a good thread on his build here
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KillerFrogg
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Report this Post03-19-2020 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KillerFroggClick Here to Email KillerFroggSend a Private Message to KillerFroggEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Being a bit cheap and up for a challenge, I plan on taking the original radiator and removing the plastic end tanks and fabbing up slimmer aluminum ones in place of the plastic ones and fitting it in front of the AC condenser for my inter-cooler heat exchanger. I plan on using the Champion fiero fit rad as well and that requires some trimming up front anyway.

Also, congrats on the lack of rust on your car. My first one car that got hit was nice but not that nice, the new one im working on right now is in bad shape. Big parts of the trunk and rear frame rails gone, as well as holes in the cabin floor. Not looking forward to dealing with all of that.

[This message has been edited by KillerFrogg (edited 03-19-2020).]

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KillerFrogg
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Report this Post03-24-2020 09:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KillerFroggClick Here to Email KillerFroggSend a Private Message to KillerFroggEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't think you have mentioned what you plan on doing with your dash, but I just got my Haltech setup working to drive the factory speedo and posted the rough version in my thread.
It's ~$15 tops in parts a some basic soldering, and doesn't require any mods to the factory speedo board.
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