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| Linear Headlight motor Success! (Page 3/5) |
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theogre
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APR 10, 03:48 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Fiero2m4Fastback:
Ok, so I've not read well but I'm assuming none of the fancy wiring or modules would be needed, this could be run off standard relays on the actual headlight circuit?
Ignore the Orge, he means well I'm sure but he's got to find reasons to object to everything. |
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Is very oblivious you don't understand. Many others don't either. You find out why Gen1 limit switches And the motor parts that run them actually work only when you jam the lift assembly or doors partway open/close as ice and other road crap can do. The Gen1 Relays Do Not care about stopping the motors for jammed parts or at End of Travel. Gen2 system goes farther and shut off power to a jammed motor at any point trying to open or close.
Garage door is important because Gen1 system is very related to many Garage Door Openers sold for 50+ years. Many GDO units have motors mounted in rubber or other things that allowing the case to rotate/move as load requires but the case will hit limit switch(es) when loads are too high like the door crushing a kid. Better ones often use similar method as Gen2 with monitoring amp draw by the motor. In GDO case this is Not Good Enough and even with bump stop and light break stops GDO still hurts or kills people every year. You not hear them in News feeds because this is too common to cover beyond maybe local TV/radio.
Gen1 Limit switches are only 1/2 of stopping the motor. Other half is the "pin" and motor shaft itself. To run the motor, it runs w/ only minor loads on the shaft and pin stays close centered axially. Jammed or EoT then the shaft climbs up/down the driven gear making the pin to force one switch off.
Above system Does Not seem to have this and only Stops at EoT. It likely doesn't have the "Backup" breaker to shut off when the normal switches fail to open as Gen1 has. Blowing 20a Taillight fuse isn't same thing as tripping a breaker/fuse in/on the motor. Many crap parts sold on Ebay and other Chinese outlets like Banggood have problems like that. Trying to "fix" them to work for a given app often have problems that can fry the wiring or cause a fire.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-10-2019).]
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theogre
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APR 10, 03:57 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by 2.5:
In order to increase reliability / decrease wear, maybe slower is better. I wouldn't be too concerned at the speed they currently move. |
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Who are you Kidding?
Fiero doors and lifts happily handle both OE systems when installed right and minor maintain the parts over 30+ years.
That's ignoring bad grounds etc that need work too after Decades of use.
Clean all door/lift parts, lube metal parts w/ Dry Teflon (Teflon is safe but Binders/Carriers in most Dry lubes often hate plastic until they dry.), reassemble and done w/ most maintenance.
Big Problem is many remove/replace the lift or doors and never bother that lift has slotted holes when they mount to the tire wall for a reason. Now most are mounted low and often to one side and rub the hood. Others are missing trim screws allowing trim side(s) to bind on the hood.
Most Hidden HL problems are simple abuse by owners and kids. Kids will play and run HHL to death if they can. Even Gen2 is not made to handle open/close/repeat for long. Sometime ice etc can jam the system but when the system works the motors will stop and in Gen2 will shut off and stay off until you operate HL switch again but many idiot just keep trying to open/close the HHL w/o look at why they shut off. I've seen old Vacuum operated HHL w/ broken parts for same reasons.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-10-2019).]
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Dennis LaGrua
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APR 14, 01:55 PM
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I don't know what all the complaints are about this guys headlight actuator system but it works. Again if anyone is worried about jamming, a fuse can be added for safety. The rise in current can blow the fuse and will just shut the actuator off. The key is to figure out the stall current at the jam point and fuse accordingly. I see no real problems with this guys actuator system ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Shho13
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APR 14, 02:32 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
I don't know what all the complaints are about this guys headlight actuator system but it works. Again if anyone is worried about jamming, a fuse can be added for safety. The rise in current can blow the fuse and will just shut the actuator off. The key is to figure out the stall current at the jam point and fuse accordingly. I see no real problems with this guys actuator system
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Well said, Dennis.
Great job on this project JMTUT!!! ------------------
"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!
Let's Go Mets!
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
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JMTUT
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APR 14, 02:54 PM
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I actually appreciate all the input on these actuators. The 35 year old motors in the system obviously worked very well over the years and one only recently failed. The linear actuator I am using is simply showing an alternative method to the current system design. In my opinion, the weak point is using the existing relays which are just as old. I have no experience with Gen 1 headlights that work well or Gen 2 lights at all. The only timing I have is the existing system on my car and the linear motor system is faster.
I don't like the design of the original system as it uses unnecessarily complicated mechanical linkage and makes a lot of noise. I believe this can be improved upon by using modern, less expensive electronics, and by working out the factors which led to battery drain problems, etc on the original system. I will keep improving the design until I have something easy to install and may then offer the plans to other people in the fiero community.
Please continue to critique any design problems so I can keep them in mind as I move forward with this.
John[This message has been edited by JMTUT (edited 04-16-2019).]
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Francis T
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SEP 21, 09:09 AM
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Glade to see others using them too. With the actuators being the most expensive component of the system; I’m going to try one unit to drive a central shaft for both sides, and also plan to use a clutch disk to prevent damage should a door be frozen shut by ice, etc.
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theogre
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SEP 21, 04:59 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Francis T:
Glade to see others using them too. With the actuators being the most expensive component of the system; I’m going to try one unit to drive a central shaft for both sides, and also plan to use a clutch disk to prevent damage should a door be frozen shut by ice, etc. |
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Many things uses a mechanical clutches but often have problems. Example farm equipment uses them like often on/in PTO input to a mower etc. Adjusting them so they work and protect is harder then most think w/o a clutch pack made for a specific application.
Just a bit loose and behaves w/ false jams and is Very annoying at minimum. If you run whatever for long w/ a loose clutch then the clutch won't last long or burn out and even cause a fire.
Just a bit tight and often fry/break whatever that's weaker. Basically Same as using Delrin "Pins" in Gen2 motor, just breaks the gear and/or output shaft because Delrin is way too hard.
If you use clutch(es) to limit load at End of Travel for the HL lifts as normal, the clutch is harder to make w/o problems.
These motor need limit switches used like Gen1 system or electronics (and programming) emulate Gen2 Module. "Arduino" et al with the right support "chips" could make a "module" w/ the same Gen2 features. Meaning shuts off Each Motor w/ high current for jamming or at normal End of Travel and shuts off power after ~ 5 sec for other issues like some disconnects HL motors in Winter.
Linear motor(s) likely need more amps to run it/them so would need to tweak the program in the "Arduino" chip or other changes to the driver circuit that just make a Gen2 board.
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JMTUT
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SEP 25, 12:56 PM
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JMTUT
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SEP 25, 12:57 PM
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hercimer01
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SEP 25, 10:43 PM
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