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| Out of Ideas (World's Longest Brake Job) (Page 2/5) |
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Doggo
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MAR 17, 07:32 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Brian A:
If that stock thing is indeed a proportioning valve, it's probably very unwise to eliminate it. You never know when you want your brakes to work to their full potential.
I'm one of the people who has installed a Wilwood proportioning valve Note that its not a simple replacement. It means a lot of bending and flaring of tubing.
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Yeaaaah, it's probably not a good idea (not that the duke will go fast enough to get into a high speed collision anyway lol) but I'm really at a loss here and am kinda just throwing out ideas that have any chance of working.
On the prop. replacement, I've pretty much already ruled that out as looking into it, it looks far and away above my skill level anyway. Unless I can find a part out fiero and get another stock one, which at this point isn't off the table[This message has been edited by Doggo (edited 03-17-2025).]
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Mickey_Moose
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MAR 18, 09:08 AM
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I have had issues like this myself, bought one of these type of vacuum bleed system and it made a world of difference and seemed to have solved my issue.
https://rb.gy/3w327i[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 03-18-2025).]
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olejoedad
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MAR 18, 09:41 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:
I have had issues like this myself, bought one of these type of vacuum bleed system and it made a world of difference and seemed to have solved my issue.
https://rb.gy/3w327i
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A vacuum bleeder is far superior to gravity bleeding or pressure bleeding.
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Filben
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MAR 18, 11:45 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by olejoedad:
A vacuum bleeder is far superior to gravity bleeding or pressure bleeding. |
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I can't believe anyone even tries gravity bleeding. I thought it was a joke. You have to FORCE the air out(or force fluid in), vacuum is the only way to do that right(or use a pressurized fluid forcer thing). But seriously people, get a vacuum bleeder or don't bother.
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MulletproofMonk
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MAR 18, 03:09 PM
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Doggo
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MAR 19, 01:49 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by MulletproofMonk:
I know when I did the Grand Am brake upgrade you have to swap the calipers right to left to point the bleeders up.
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Ah yes, I remember reading your thread about the upside down grand am calipers. Multiple times, in fact. I’ve kid you not spent hours typing in different combinations of keywords into the search to find threads of people with similar issues, yours was one that came up frequently lol. As for my calipers, I can assure you they are on the right sides, left on left, right on right, all bleeders point up. Interesting point about trying the old calipers, we may have tried that, don’t quite remember. It will go on the list of checks to be performed if the vac bleeder that was suggested earlier in this thread yields no results. I can post a pic of my front and back calipers soon.
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Doggo
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MAR 19, 01:54 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Filben:
I can't believe anyone even tries gravity bleeding. I thought it was a joke. You have to FORCE the air out(or force fluid in), vacuum is the only way to do that right(or use a pressurized fluid forcer thing). But seriously people, get a vacuum bleeder or don't bother. |
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Yeah I’ve always been a bit skeptical about gravity bleeding myself. Can’t the bubbles like stick to the sides of pipes and hoses and just let fluid drip past? But plenty of old school DIYers and mechanics alike who know much more than I have vouched for its effectiveness so I’ve always tried to suppress my own doubts about it. I bought that vac bleeder that Mr. Moose linked a few posts ago, so here’s hoping!
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1985 Fiero GT
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MAR 19, 08:32 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Doggo:
Yeah I’ve always been a bit skeptical about gravity bleeding myself. Can’t the bubbles like stick to the sides of pipes and hoses and just let fluid drip past? But plenty of old school DIYers and mechanics alike who know much more than I have vouched for its effectiveness so I’ve always tried to suppress my own doubts about it. I bought that vac bleeder that Mr. Moose linked a few posts ago, so here’s hoping! |
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Yeah vacuum bleeders are great, except when you forget to add fluid to the reservoir, I've flushed the brakes on at least 4 cars, my Fiero twice now (removed cradle, rear lines were drained) no problems, just pump until the bubbles stop coming (and make sure the bubbles aren't just coming from the bleeder, and that's it! A vacuum bleeder has helped me with the clutch system, although every time I've done it it's been finished up by one person slowly pumping and one person opening the bleeder, except for the last time, with a dry f23 hydraulic throwout bearing, that surprisingly bled really easily, vacuum to get fluid to it, a few pumps of the clutch to get some fluid in it, then vacuum and some slow pumps to mostly fill it, then vacuum to get the last bubbles.
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NuClearFuRy
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MAR 24, 09:15 AM
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Sad to say that the vaccum bleeder we used did not help. It would only suck out little driblets and the fluid level in the resevoir had no notable movement, certainly not something we saw with our eyes. We had the same results with the resevoir cap on and off. The only time we had any notable fluid movement was when we pressed the pedal while the vaccum was on and as usual we only got the one push and then it was basically dead after that.
We did not try the backs as a control variable. The next step I think we should take is "bench bleed" through the prop valve since we know we can bench bleed straight out of the master. I really really really super hope there is some dumb giblet in there, but what blows my mind is that we have one master that whenever we put it on, it bleeds every caliper fine, but for the infinite microbubbles that never get better or worse in the fronts. The Master we are currently using is a newer one that will only push the fluid once through the fronts then its dead for at least 20 min.
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Filben
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MAR 24, 09:48 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by NuClearFuRy:
Sad to say that the vaccum bleeder we used did not help. It would only suck out little driblets and the fluid level in the resevoir had no notable movement, certainly not something we saw with our eyes. We had the same results with the resevoir cap on and off. The only time we had any notable fluid movement was when we pressed the pedal while the vaccum was on and as usual we only got the one push and then it was basically dead after that.
We did not try the backs as a control variable. The next step I think we should take is "bench bleed" through the prop valve since we know we can bench bleed straight out of the master. I really really really super hope there is some dumb giblet in there, but what blows my mind is that we have one master that whenever we put it on, it bleeds every caliper fine, but for the infinite microbubbles that never get better or worse in the fronts. The Master we are currently using is a newer one that will only push the fluid once through the fronts then its dead for at least 20 min. |
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Your procedure is wrong. You should start at the farthest caliper from the MC(passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, driver front). It MUST be bleed in that order. Put a dab of grease on the bleed nipple so it makes a good seal with the vacuum hose. You need to be able to pull and hold a full vacuum BEFORE you open the bleeder(also some vacuum bleeders suck and don't work very well, confirm it actually works and holds a vacuum).
There is also a way to force fluid through using positive pressure (ignore that it is on a tesla, the tool is the important bit) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVEG3jhG6n0
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