PFF - Pennock's Fiero Forum, PDA Edition

Fiero No.2 - 88formula 3800/F23 swap (Page 13/15)

ignorant prodigy

APR 08, 08:47 PM

ok scratch that entire post. I have never used these kind of lug nuts/wheels.. that have the shank
I didnt realize the nuts slip inside the hole..

i'm a dumbass..

well.. at least i realized before I went buying longer studs... there's that... :/

wftb

APR 08, 09:08 PM

You had me really confused as well. But you figured it out before you wasted a bunch of time and money. The nuts on my Kazerra wheels are the shoulder type as well. I like them , no long studs needed and lots of thread engagement.

------------------
86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

ericjon262

APR 08, 09:15 PM

if you're ever concerned about thread engagement, you can put ARP wheel studs in, thats what I did on my car because I've fought that battle and lost, and won't lose again

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

ignorant prodigy

APR 08, 09:27 PM

quote

Originally posted by wftb:

You had me really confused as well. But you figured it out before you wasted a bunch of time and money. The nuts on my Kazerra wheels are the shoulder type as well. I like them , no long studs needed and lots of thread engagement.

Nice, do you have a pic of those wheels?

quote

Originally posted by ericjon262:

if you're ever concerned about thread engagement, you can put ARP wheel studs in, thats what I did on my car because I've fought that battle and lost, and won't lose again

Note taken. Hopefully I don't have any issues.. pretty sure these were designed for the 84 fiero's.. I don't know enough about the differences from 88 to know if there's any issues. I figure they'll stick out a bit in the front but I'm ok with that.

wftb

APR 08, 09:35 PM

Car is up on the hoist now so hard to get a decent pic. I do not think these are made any more, I bought them around 2004 or so. They are 16" but only weigh 15 lbs. Lightest 16" I could find at a reasonable price.

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 04-08-2020).]

ignorant prodigy

APR 08, 09:36 PM

nice! looks good with the caliper too.

ignorant prodigy

APR 11, 03:12 PM

ok so it moves!

I can't get it into 2nd or reverse though. Haven't tried the others.
I thought maybe the cables need adjusting?
Or maybe the clutch needs to be bled better?

clutch pedal looks good to me though.

ignorant prodigy

APR 19, 06:16 PM

I ordered a Rodney Dickman clutch master. I messed with the shifter linkage but couldn't find any issues with it. If it's not the clutch fluid (which could be original for all I know) I may have to pull out the transmission, not something I want to do.

The weather has been such crap I haven't had much chance to work on it. Need a garage.

After I test drove it I spent some more time bleeding the heat exchanger, and I picked up a smaller battery to fit in the tray up front.
However I went to try and start it earlier in the week and all it did was this:

I suspected the ICM, and after some help on FB determined it was at least something to do with the spark. I pulled a plug out and had the wife crank the engine.. sure enough no spark.
After I inspected the wires, some were exposed but didn't seem to be broken.

So I went to the junkyard. I pulled an ICM, 3 coils (plus the bracket), and the whole ICM harness. $25 bucks.
The only bad news is one of the little bolts holding a coildpack on was rusted so bad I couldnt get my socket to grab. So I had to dremel it off.

I disconnected the ICM and plugged in the junkyard one, leaving everything else the way it was. It fired right up. The harness is kind of a ***** to get to so I figured I'd just band-aid it and throw on some electrical tape. But once I took a closer look I noticed the ground which should be on one of the studs coming from the bracket was broken off, and just hanging there.
So I was missing a ground.. that couldn't be good.. even though it ran??
The wire on the left should have a big eye hole on it that slips over the stud and gets sandwiched by another nut.

After seeing that, I decided to swap the harness to the new junkyard one. I had to pull off the belts and a few pullies to get to the sensors, and after a lot of little cuts on my forearms I got the new one in.

After that though, fired right up!

and finally, picture of my daughter looking through the t-top.. because it makes me smile

[This message has been edited by ignorant prodigy (edited 04-19-2020).]

ignorant prodigy

APR 25, 04:50 PM

So i swapped in the new Master Cylinder. Bench bled it, and then gravity bled it until clear fluid was coming out the bleeder.
pedal feels firm

Having issues with it though.
with the clutch in, I can hit every gear with the shifter. Goes in an out nice.
In first, operates just like how I'd expect. Car moved forward no problem.
However If I put it in reverse, when I lift up the clutch pedal it grinds and pushes it right out of gear.

I tried starting it in 2nd and same thing happens.

However, I tried starting it in 3rd gear.. and it moved forward. I only tried that twice just as a test, but actually works in 1st and 3rd.

Anyone have any guesses? Are my synchros toast? I would have though 1st and 2nd were on the same one.
Got me thinking maybe my shift lever needs some adjustment?

[This message has been edited by ignorant prodigy (edited 04-25-2020).]

ericjon262

APR 25, 04:58 PM

to me that doesnt' sound like a clutch issue, it sounds like the linkage needs adjustment, like maybe the reverse throw of the shifter isn't far enough.