quote Originally posted by redraif: Got through it, but the darn front lower control arms are a beast... the bushing were really in there. I tried to drill them... burning I think is the ticket! Also, it does not show here, I can back for referance... the front most bolt on the front LCA... is it supposed to be oriented with the nut to the rear of the car. I had a bear of a time pulling the bolt out from under the steering rack boot. It was hitting horribly... Did anyone else have this issue?

quote Originally posted by redraif: Ok is this normal? Why would GM do this? Did the Previous owner take it apart and put it back backwards? I'm getting total interferance from the rubber boot on the steering rack while trying to remove the bolt from the front most leg on the lower control arm. I had to pry on the rubber boot to even try to get it out and it did not work. Surely GM did not intend for us to remove the rack to remove the LCA's. Yes it's the same on both sides... I even pushed the tierod up hoping the joint would move it further out of the way... nope... Is the nut supposed to go on this side instead? So here was what I had to do to get the darn thing out... So I got them both out, but I don't see how on earth I could ever line it back up to get it back in this way, esp get it back in straight. The next question is, do I put is back together like this? or reverse it and put the nut to the front instead? What did you do? Thank you!

So, I saw your other thread and brought your pictures over here. Yes, my bolt did the exact same thing. I think that one 87 was more of a PITA then the other. Sorry that I didn't capture that, I did the best that I could. When you are making progress, sometimes you just want to plow through and get it done...


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-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 05-21-2013).]

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-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel
My HUD install thread

Way back I said I would post some pictures of the tool I made for removing the bushings, I guess 3 years is a long enough wait... Seriously though, I hadn't done any bushings until last week.

quote Originally posted 06-10-2009 by MulletproofMonk: At some point I need to post pictures of the bushing removal tool that I made to do my current car. It reduced waiting for the bushings to burn out and it only cost about $25 to make 2 (one for the large bushings and one for the small bushings). Anything that helps reduce inhaling that toxic black smoke is good...

First let me say that Rodney Dickman's Fiero Balljoint Separator Tool is awesome.


So, my bushing removal tool is just a length of pipe with a cap. The diameter should just fits over the bushing. It should be deep enough to hold the bushing that pops out. Lastly I used a lag bolt long enough to go through the pipe plus control arm and have 2 washers with a nut. I tried one washer but it bent everytime. I ended up with one washer the same size as the bushing and then a smaller washer that was thicker and higher grade.

Once you attach the tool, I heat the sleeve evenly with a propane torch. You should hear the bushing start to sizzle (and maybe see some smoke), start turning the nut with a ratchet wrench. If you start torquing it down to where the washer is pulling in at the center but the bushing doesn't move around the edges, more heat on the sleeve. If the bushing isn't ready to be released, you will pull the whole sleeve out...


You can see how the edges of the bushing gets hot and releases. Oh yeah, wear some gloves. It gets hot from the heat transfer.


Just a little residue in there, but much better than my old burn out process.


All 4 bushings from both of the lower control arms. Also a better shot of the lag bolt and washers.


Shoes still kicking!

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 05-21-2013).]

Let's do another update... And talk about more tools.

Organization. K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid. If you can misplace a bolt or thread the wrong bolt in somewhere, you probably will. While reading other peoples threads in quests of poly (and losing bolt sizes, locations, etc), I thought I would share my simple method. Wood with drilled holes, a couple of nails and a marker.

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 05-21-2013).]

84-87 Torque Specs from Ryan's excellent site: http://www.gmtuners.com/fil...7_Fiero_TQ_Specs.pdf

quote Originally posted by Raydar: The 220 ft.lbs. for the hub/bearing bolt into the knuckle is horribly wrong. I'll have to dig for the correct value. It's more like 62 ft/lbs. (Same as the rears.)

From the 88 Service Manual

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 05-12-2024).]