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A 3.4 DOHC Build then... F40 Turbo by Fierobsessed
Started on: 02-04-2013 03:59 AM
Replies: 551 (30113 views)
Last post by: ericjon262 on 07-12-2017 10:57 PM
Fierobsessed
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Report this Post02-17-2016 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I ran it up to 18 PSI... and the clutch can't handle it. It slips a little in 3rd and 4th when the power peaks, but then grabs again after a little slippage. So, I'm backing it down to 16 again. Too much power otherwise. Damn shame really. It's monstrous at 18. I can bust the tires free at around 75 mph pretty easily. It's just really nice to not be held back by crap 91 octane.

I definitely hear what you are saying with the different blends, I know they have to cut it with gasoline to de-nature the alcohol right off the bat. I wish it really were E-85. It's really impressive to see what an impact there is just by increasing the ethanol content by 50%. 85% would be really nice.

I'm working on some more code stuff, some refinements. I've found that compensating the BPC vs EGR based on ethanol content isn't doing all that great. BLM's are at 128 in idle cell, but 144 when on throttle. So that means the fueling curves are a little whacked. Could be because of injector non-linearity, as the injectors operate in a happier zone on E-85. Perhaps a little combination of both, give it some love on injector offsets, and feed it some stronger BPC compensations for the ethanol, that might fix it.

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post02-18-2016 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Definitely thinking a lot about the clutch lately. It's really been weighing on my mind. I've looked into twin and triple disc Tiltons which are a little pricey, but have actual torque ratings. And, then again, I was really close to having enough torque capacity with what I have, I just should increase the pressure plate ratio. But to do that I would need to make a custom flywheel.. again. Which is really starting to sound like the only way to go. Perhaps a shift to a 4 or 3 (eek!) button/puck clutch with a higher pressure plate ratio would fix a few issues. I'd get better modulation due to the PP ratio, and lower disc inertia due to less friction material, and far more holding capacity. Only sacrifice would be... clutch life and opposing surface destruction. I would likely move towards using my spec SCC883 pressure plate, as it already has a very high pressure plate ratio. It's higher than my custom one, but requires either a thicker disc, or a stepped flywheel, which means custom flywheel for sure.

As I type this, I realize that my decision is already made. Better get some materials and get to work.

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RobertISaar
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Report this Post02-19-2016 04:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RobertISaarClick Here to Email RobertISaarSend a Private Message to RobertISaarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

time for a max PSI vs gear table, either temporarily until the new flywheel is done or perhaps a permanent addition in case you find other weak links?

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Report this Post02-20-2016 05:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Dave told me you were going to give me your old fuel setup for my birthday. I think that's mighty kind of you.

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post02-21-2016 05:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by mr_corean:

Dave told me you were going to give me your old fuel setup for my birthday. I think that's mighty kind of you.


Yeah good luck with that, I already tried, and wants to hang on to it "just in case" I don't blame him on that.


I hope you figure out a good high HP clutch setup as I will need one soon too

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Report this Post02-21-2016 09:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm running a bully stage 6 in my turbo 3500, but I haven't really hammered down on it yet.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post02-22-2016 04:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Clutchnet "4BS9421"

with a Spec SCC883 Pressure plate

Iv'e had this pressure plate kicking around since the original build, I just need to make a flywheel that is stepped to work with the new disc, and the pressure plate.

Metal is starting to show up for making the flywheel... so this will be fun.

Don't you mean a bully stage 4? Looks to me to be almost exactly the same thing I'm putting in anyway. 4 pucks instead of 6, which should add some more grip, and its still sprung. And, with Specs high ratio pressure plate, It's going to feel exactly like a stock clutch, but may be a little tougher to modulate, and won't last as long as it could. But it should easily hold quite a bit more than this clutch has been holding.

Since E-85 is working out so well with my car, My "Old" fuel setup is now destined to end up on my eventual 3800 SC build. It's ideally sized for that application. Sorry guys, I'll definitely be needing it in the future.

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Report this Post02-23-2016 12:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zjwesterClick Here to Email zjwesterSend a Private Message to zjwesterEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This is an amazing build! i have been watching it for a while and thinking about a turbo...

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Report this Post02-23-2016 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I meant stage 4, I don't know where stage 6 came from. it is a 4 puck sprung hub though. I'm happy with it so far, very smooth, but I haven't hit it too hard yet either.

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post02-25-2016 04:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Looking at my data logs from my quarter mile run, I learned a lot about my driving, and the car, and how the two of us can work together to shave a butt-load of time off the ET.

The breakdown looks like this:
0.0s I launched, no boost at all at and at 100% throttle the moment the wheels started turning
1.6s Boost hits 10 PSI in first gear, I'll consider this the point where the turbo is "Spooled" I was actually pushing 16 PSI solidly when in boost.
2.2s I release the throttle and shift. This also happens to coincide exactly with my 60' time.
2.7s I'm back at full throttle, so my 1-2 shift was 0.5 seconds to complete.
3.1s Turbo is back to 10+ psi. that's 0.4s after the shift was complete.
4.8s I release the throttle and shift
5.4s Full throttle, 2-3 shift was 0.6 seconds long.
5.7s Turbo is back to 10+ psi. that's 0.3s after the shift was complete.
8.7s Shift begins
9.3s Shift complete 3-4 was 0.6s
9.5s Boost is back at 10+ .2 seconds after the shift.
12.85 at 117.

It was a good run, but It really pointed out where improvements could be made.
If I consider anything that is below 10 PSI, to be turbo dead time, then...
I was out of boost for 4.1 seconds of the quarter. In boost for 8.7.
Total time at zero throttle? 1.6 seconds.

Realizing these issues, I wrote some new code, ran a wire between the ECM and the cruise control servo to tap into the brake/clutch input, and added two new features:
No lift to shift, and staging control.
No lift in my code works as follows. When the throttle is at 90%+ and the clutch pedal is not fully released, (basically anytime its pressed at all) a lower rev limiter is set based on current speed. It sets a rev limiter at the predicted RPM that the next gear will shift into.

Staging control is simply a rev limiter that is present when the vehicle speed is below a specified MPH. I have it set for 5 MPH and 3200 RPM.
So I can floor it and the engine will bounce off the rev limiter at 3200. Then as I release the clutch and the car takes off, it will exceed the 5 MPH and allow the rev limiter to jump to 7000.

In testing, I found that although the code works exactly as intended, the driver (me) has to re-learn how to drive stick, as everything I have ever known to be right says to remove the right foot from throttle when using the clutch, and so far, in two attempts, I have failed.

Best part, I found that the turbo remains in boost for a whopping 2 whole seconds when No Lift To Shift kicks in. That's astoundingly long. The engine at high RPM with the throttle blade open, pumps plenty of air to keep the turbo more than happy. Its when you close the throttle blade for a half a second at 16 PSI, you will only have 0-2 PSI when the throttle blade opens fully again. The Blow off valve doesn't do anything to keep the turbo spooled, it merely keeps the turbo from suffering a massive air reversion through the compressor (compressor stall/surge) which can cause catastrophic damage to the turbo.

I'm still struggling with the whole right foot thing, but I can't wait to try it out again when I find a safe place to practice.

Shortening the shift times themselves will have to be a function of a new, lower inertia clutch disc, and I'll have to be more aggressive myself.

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Report this Post02-26-2016 12:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 3.1 88FieroGTClick Here to Email 3.1 88FieroGTSend a Private Message to 3.1 88FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Doesn't look like you have a whole lot of room but a recirculating blow off valve would help with losing boost during shifting. Are you using a maf or just map sensor? Your coding and tuning abilities are very inspiring lol. I'm hoping to have my build up and going before spring. Picked up a 97 monte carlo for obd2 donor harness and 4t65e transmission. Going to be using dhp tuner which seems to have its limits.

[This message has been edited by 3.1 88FieroGT (edited 02-26-2016).]

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post02-26-2016 08:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

MAP only.

Thanks for the compliment, I'm going to release the code and the highly modified definition that has all the patches, and custom stuff when I find a nice way to do so, and I get the definition buttered up for a public release.

Recirculative BOV's are said to be for MAF applications where you don't want to vent already measured air. But even then, it's kind of BS. The compressed air between the turbo and throttle blade still gets measured as it reverts back through the MAF. So even then, it's not really doing as it's advertised.

Either way, when the throttle blade shuts, almost all of the driving energy from the exhaust stops driving the turbine, and the compressor is still pumping a whole lot of air through the BOV, no matter the type. So the turbo has all the reason in the world to slow down as quickly as possible. Keeping the throttle blade wide open, allows the turbo to pump the air into the engine still, and a large amount of exhaust continues to drive the turbine, so the turbo slows down very gracefully. And as soon as the fuel comes back on the boost is already mostly present.

I'm currently working on the flywheel, so far so good , I've got the material machined to shape, I just have a ton of holes to drill, tap and counterbore. I took a bunch of pics, looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

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Report this Post03-05-2016 08:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It's been a fun week. Loads of work was done on the flywheel, So here goes!

Raw materials


I drew a 12" circle on it just to give me an idea where I needed to trim it down


I had to cut the flywheel down to a rough circle, since my lathe can only tolerate a roughly 12.5" diameter stock before I have to pull the gap bed out. Trusty sawsall did the work. It was a lot of cutting!


I needed a hole in the center to even chuck the stock, so I had to break out the hole saw.



Then, I started chipping away at the OD and the ID, working the center out to 5" and the OD down to 11.600" and then surface cuts on both sides.


The disc blank is done!


Next, I had to work on the hub section. I intended this flywheel to be two pieces as it would have been a colossal piece of billet. I could have done that, but it would have been more work really.
Same treatment as before, trim down the outside bore the ID, surface both sides. This time I was able to chuck it from the outside, 7" is right on the edge of what my 3 jaw could take with the external jaws.


Then I did the disc side cuts.


Then the engine side cuts, the two pieces fit together nicely!


With the billet blanks done being machined, It was time to take the take them over to the milling machine and start putting a whole lot of holes in them. The rotary table was as much of an indispensable part of the production as the lathe.


I started my taps with the milling machine right after drilling the holes, so I know they were straight and true, and located exactly in the right place. I then finished off the holes with the hand tap. Much lower risk.



Lotsa holes!


For the off the shelf Fidanza friction plate to bolt to the disc, I had to counterbore all the holes for the length of the screws.


I then made 6 stand-offs for the starter ring, easy work on the lathe again


I figured out what my plate depth needed to be. I wound up having the friction disc be 0.040" above the surface of the flywheel. This way I can use the increased clamp pressure plates with my clutchnet disc.


Bolted on the stand-offs.


Cut a little off the edge off the standoffs till I had them down to 11.092" and then slipped the ring gear over the standoffs.


A little welding


Bolt it all together, and that's pretty much it!



Also, I got my Clutchnet "95-08 Ford Ranger" clutch disc.


It's all coming together... I still have to do some pressure plate soul searching. I need to find a more positive release design, and a ton+ of clamping force. Hopefully I can find a good answer to that issue.

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post03-08-2016 12:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fierobsessed:

Looking at my data logs from my quarter mile run, I learned a lot about my driving, and the car, and how the two of us can work together to shave a butt-load of time off the ET.

The breakdown looks like this:
0.0s I launched, no boost at all at and at 100% throttle the moment the wheels started turning
1.6s Boost hits 10 PSI in first gear, I'll consider this the point where the turbo is "Spooled" I was actually pushing 16 PSI solidly when in boost.
2.2s I release the throttle and shift. This also happens to coincide exactly with my 60' time.
2.7s I'm back at full throttle, so my 1-2 shift was 0.5 seconds to complete.
3.1s Turbo is back to 10+ psi. that's 0.4s after the shift was complete.
4.8s I release the throttle and shift
5.4s Full throttle, 2-3 shift was 0.6 seconds long.
5.7s Turbo is back to 10+ psi. that's 0.3s after the shift was complete.
8.7s Shift begins
9.3s Shift complete 3-4 was 0.6s
9.5s Boost is back at 10+ .2 seconds after the shift.
12.85 at 117.

It was a good run, but It really pointed out where improvements could be made.
If I consider anything that is below 10 PSI, to be turbo dead time, then...
I was out of boost for 4.1 seconds of the quarter. In boost for 8.7.
Total time at zero throttle? 1.6 seconds.

Realizing these issues, I wrote some new code, ran a wire between the ECM and the cruise control servo to tap into the brake/clutch input, and added two new features:
No lift to shift, and staging control.
No lift in my code works as follows. When the throttle is at 90%+ and the clutch pedal is not fully released, (basically anytime its pressed at all) a lower rev limiter is set based on current speed. It sets a rev limiter at the predicted RPM that the next gear will shift into.

Staging control is simply a rev limiter that is present when the vehicle speed is below a specified MPH. I have it set for 5 MPH and 3200 RPM.
So I can floor it and the engine will bounce off the rev limiter at 3200. Then as I release the clutch and the car takes off, it will exceed the 5 MPH and allow the rev limiter to jump to 7000.

In testing, I found that although the code works exactly as intended, the driver (me) has to re-learn how to drive stick, as everything I have ever known to be right says to remove the right foot from throttle when using the clutch, and so far, in two attempts, I have failed.

Best part, I found that the turbo remains in boost for a whopping 2 whole seconds when No Lift To Shift kicks in. That's astoundingly long. The engine at high RPM with the throttle blade open, pumps plenty of air to keep the turbo more than happy. Its when you close the throttle blade for a half a second at 16 PSI, you will only have 0-2 PSI when the throttle blade opens fully again. The Blow off valve doesn't do anything to keep the turbo spooled, it merely keeps the turbo from suffering a massive air reversion through the compressor (compressor stall/surge) which can cause catastrophic damage to the turbo.

I'm still struggling with the whole right foot thing, but I can't wait to try it out again when I find a safe place to practice.

Shortening the shift times themselves will have to be a function of a new, lower inertia clutch disc, and I'll have to be more aggressive myself.


You know I came up with the EXACT same idea for launch/staging control at the last track day. and to be done exactly the same way.
RPM limit under certain MPH.

Looking at your last set of pics, you prob spend more time with your lathe than you do you wife

Can't wait to see this next track day Show everyone what a 60deg can do!!!!!

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Will
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Report this Post03-09-2016 09:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by sardonyx247:

You know I came up with the EXACT same idea for launch/staging control at the last track day. and to be done exactly the same way.
RPM limit under certain MPH.


FYI, DMSLink was doing shift-no-lift since at least the early 2000's (and I'm sure others did it before that).

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Report this Post03-10-2016 04:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


FYI, DMSLink was doing shift-no-lift since at least the early 2000's (and I'm sure others did it before that).


No I was thinking of launch control, and I know others have done it, I was just thinking about how to do it on a Fiero ECM with the knowledge that I have, not saying I am the first, but saying I thought of how to do it myself, with no knowledge of how it is done.

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Report this Post03-20-2016 03:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 3.1 88FieroGTClick Here to Email 3.1 88FieroGTSend a Private Message to 3.1 88FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Bump for update

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ericjon262
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Report this Post08-09-2016 08:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

any updates?

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post08-15-2016 08:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

None to speak of. Its 110 degrees outside and the car runs too hot in the summer to drive. The old clutch and flywheel are still in the car, and it still slips. The synchros on the transmission are being funky too. So I will have a bit of a go through at some point to address all these issues. But in the meantime, it is parked just mainly due to the heat.

I am working on a 3800 SC build for my other car in the meantime, and that's coming out great so far. But I've been quiet here while I mess around with that.

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Report this Post08-23-2016 02:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fierobsessed:
None to speak of. Its 110 degrees outside and the car runs too hot in the summer to drive. The old clutch and flywheel are still in the car, and it still slips. The synchros on the transmission are being funky too. So I will have a bit of a go through at some point to address all these issues. But in the meantime, it is parked just mainly due to the heat.

I am working on a 3800 SC build for my other car in the meantime, and that's coming out great so far. But I've been quiet here while I mess around with that.


If you have the means or a local shop near by, have your pressure plate clamping pressure checked as that may be all you need to address to resolve the slip issue. I had mine modified to 2300 lbs as you may recall from a ~1900 lb baseline.

As for the synchro issue, if it's not the common struggle associated with first and second gear on cold start up I'd be concerned. Before my first F40 started to come apart I had trouble shifting into 6th gear without a scrape under light load for about a month. It was a strange, new, seemingly minor issue until it wasn't. Hope that's not the case because if it is that means you probably have to back off the boost. As for your cooling issue, if you can't keep temps around 210-215 deg F under normal driving in 110 deg heat I'd be suspicious of a possible foreign object somewhere on the engine end of the coolant passages.

Is it possible you have a coolant loop somewhere in the system like what's found on the 2.8L where coolant bypasses the engine headed toward the heater core until the thermostat opens?


Just looked at some of your pics earlier in the thread, I see you have some recirculating coolant nipples on the water pump inlet housing. Is it possible recirculating hot coolant is the culprit? The 3900 has a similar arrangement where some coolant coming directly from the cylinder head coolant outlet is recirculated directly to the pump inlet.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 08-23-2016).]

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Report this Post08-29-2016 12:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

There are two circuits that recirculates the coolant within the engine full time.

One is the oil cooler loop. This one has a fitting with a 1/8 maybe 3/16" hole in the front water jacket drain port as a supply to the oil cooler. It dumps the coolant back into the water pump inlet.
The second is the turbo cooling loop. It taps off the throttle body coolant line coming from the intake. Then it runs through the turbo and wastegate. It also returns to the water pump inlet. It is a 1/2" pipe, but it has some choke points. The coolant likely comes back pretty toasty.

Perhaps you are onto something there. Maybe I can route both of those circuits to dump into the radiator inlet. Proportionally, they probably can flow about 1/4 of the total coolant. Shouldn't be an issue, but I can't shrug it off as not possible.

For the clutch I've built a new pressure plate that seems to have a higher clamping force. I also purchased that 4 puck disc to reduce inertia and increase torque capacity. I'll probably just re-synchro the transmission anyway. Certainly 1-3 or 1-4. I found some metal accumulating on the VSS, which is quite magnetic. So, well, yeah.

Either way, second kid on the way, time is going to be an issue again soon.

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Report this Post09-20-2016 08:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Got a little bit of work done yesterday. Since the transmission was peeing all over the garage floor, I finally changed the drivers side axle seal and put new proper GM fluid in. I also replaced the cracked EGR tube and changed my registration over to Classic Rod. Now that the weather is cooperating, I can drive the car on the weekends again. I really missed taking this thing out and pouncing on the throttle occasionally. I wanted to see if using the factory fluid will help the transmission shift better. If not, I'll have to re-synchro the trans when I finally get around to change the clutch.

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Report this Post03-20-2017 04:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 3.1 88FieroGTClick Here to Email 3.1 88FieroGTSend a Private Message to 3.1 88FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

time for an update...

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Irrationable
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Report this Post05-03-2017 07:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IrrationableSend a Private Message to IrrationableEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 3.1 88FieroGT:

time for an update...


2x

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post05-21-2017 08:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It's been forever since I've done much of an update. Honestly Its just been sitting. I had another kid in November, a whole 3 months earlier than planned. So, to say the least, things have slowed to a crawl for the last... almost a year.

I did drive the car once and still likes to overheat. It had also decided to break the 3 bar map sensor. I thought it blew the ECM up, but it did turn out to be the MAP.

I replaced the MAP with an expensive GM OEM unit. The car runs and drives great! Still makes much more power than the clutch can handle.

It just gets hot after driving for a while. I'm still pushing around theories as to why it runs hot. I truly don't know why. I'm starting to think its a growing air bubble on the engine side that it cannot purge to the radiator due to the high point being the engine itself. Maybe a simple high inline fill port like the car originally had will fix it, or at least keep air pockets from getting trapped inside the engine itself. That's my latest theory. The turbo is in the engine coolant loop and dumps back into the engine at the inlet. So, if the turbo is boiling water, the expansion can easily get trapped in the engine. My thermostat outlet goes straight down and forward to the radiator, so its probably not flushing any expansion forward as gas. Perhaps this is a critical part of Fiero cooling theory that I just never considered.

You can see what I mean here. The coolant outlet is the stainless 1.25" pipe right near the turbo inlet.


I don't have any intention of doing anything major on the car anytime soon. I really wanted to do the flywheel and clutch thing so I can dyno it and maybe rip off a wicked 11 second 1/4 mile pass.

On the other hand, I did send the tail lights out for the refinishing service, so it's not like nothing has been done at all. I just wish I had time to do it all up.

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ericjon262
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Report this Post05-21-2017 09:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

have you pressure tested your cooling system yet? my car was overheating, I saw no signs of a leak, but when I pressure tested it, it leaked down very quickly. turned out, the worm clamps to and from the radiator were not tight enough, I replace several with T-bolt clamps, and put the fear of god in them, and it stopped overheating.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post05-23-2017 09:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nah, never pressure tested it. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea.

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Neils88
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Report this Post05-27-2017 03:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:
"...and put the fear of god in them, and it stopped overheating. "



I never thought of using threats of violence as a maintenance tool.... I'll have to add that one to my tool box.

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ericjon262
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Report this Post05-27-2017 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Neils88:


I never thought of using threats of violence as a maintenance tool.... I'll have to add that one to my tool box.



lol, it works, I promise.

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mr_corean
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Report this Post05-29-2017 05:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I might be talking out my ass here, but could you put some sort of a purge valve like our fuel pressure valve? Then you could just run a hose to that into a bucket and purge it until only liquid and no gases were coming from the line. I'm guessing that's the high point in the lines right?

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elitopr
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Report this Post07-11-2017 07:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for elitoprClick Here to visit elitopr's HomePageSend a Private Message to elitoprEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

PM sent to fierobsessed

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ericjon262
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Report this Post07-12-2017 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by mr_corean:

I might be talking out my ass here, but could you put some sort of a purge valve like our fuel pressure valve? Then you could just run a hose to that into a bucket and purge it until only liquid and no gases were coming from the line. I'm guessing that's the high point in the lines right?



kind of already exists, the radiator cap should provide this function for gasses in the radiator, and *most* engines made past the late 80's/early 90's have bleed valves installed at the high points in the system. with my car, I went a step further, and installed a small tank in the recirculation line that goes from the thermostat housing, back to the water pump. the tank provides for a high point fill in the engine compartment, and has enough volume to allow the velocity of coolant in the tank to lower, and allow gas bubbles to collect there instead of going back into the engine where heat transfer would be effected. I also installed a bleed valve on the tank to allow the gasses to be vented when the system has pressure.


there's pictures of my setup on RFT, and until I find a suitable replacement for photobucket, I won't have them posted elsewhere.

http://phpbb.realfierotech....4510f5475412#p153537

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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