Oil leak turned out to be the oil pan drain plug was not tight enough. It was just over finger tight. I am very happy to get this fixed before it fell out on the road somewhere and trashed my engine.
I drove it short of 100 miles today. I am getting a code 32. The dreaded EGR code from hell. The car runs great. I was able to figure out the TV cable adjustment the other day. Transmission is working perfectly.
I printed the instructions Buddy Craigg posted in his Code 32 thread.
My EGR valve will bleed off the vacuum while hooked to the vacuum pump in about 15 seconds.
I have excellent vacuum from the TB to the EGR solenoid. 18 inches or more as I blipped the throttle.
I can not open the EGR valve from the solenoid end of the plastic line. I am gonna go get some vacuum hose and replace it from except the last few inches.
Vacuum sensor closes at around 3 inches of vacuum.
My curved plastic hose broke in half. I am not sure if I broke it, or it was already cracked. I will replace it with hose.
I haven't tried the vacuum supply hose plugged onto the vacuum switch test yet. I will do this tomorrow.
I Ohmed the solenoid, and got 65.6 ohms.
Is this proper for the EGR to bleed down like this? These darned things are almost $60.00 !!!!!
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-22-2011).]
How do I correct the speedo? It runs about 7 MPH slow. I am pretty sure the Tach is correct as it matches the rpm on the scanner while driving. The 3.33 final drive should be running 2630 RPM at 60 MPH. About 3069 RPM for 70 MPH.
Numbers above stolen from Ogre's cave. Credit and praise as due to The Ogre.
I was going to replace one of the hard plastic vacuum tubes underneath the upper intake. I cut the wrong one. It was the one to the fuel pressure regulator. SO, I went and picked up a Fel Pro intake manifold set. Fiero 2.8, @ $19.47 including tax. Removed the upper intake and replaced my screw up. I will replace the upper intake after work tomorrow. I have now replaced all of the small hard plastic lines with new vacuum hose. I retained the ends that plug onto the intakes, MAP's etc. Looking forward to a drive tomorrow afternoon.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-23-2011).]
I was able to get the upper intake back on the engine. Made me a 30 mile run. SES light came on about the time I hit 60 MPH. I am gonna clear the codes and try a run tomorrow with the ported vacuum to the vacuum switch on the engine to check all the wiring. Buddy Craigg says this will let the ECM think the EGR is working. Just to rule out the wiring.
Unhappy today. I am trying to purchase a rebuilt EGR solenoid from Paul V. I will also replace my weak EGR valve with a new one.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-24-2011).]
I had good luck with the car today. I shorted across the two vacuum sensor wires at the EGR solenoid. I went for a 40 mile run at speeds of 55 to 70 MPH. No SES light this time. This means that either the solenoid or the EGR is bad. I know the ohms on the solenoid or low, around 65 . Should be in the ballpark of 120 ohms. Also my EGR valve will bleed of the vacuum in under 20 seconds. I am gonna replace both.
Ordered new EGR valve from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I have contacted Paul V for a rebuilt EGR solenoid that he sells in the Mall.
I have the new EGR valve, and the hose adapter for the vacuum line. The new one uses a larger size hose.
I received my Evercoat Vette Panel Adhasive to fix the bo bo's in my roof and deck lid.
Waiting on my EGR solenoid from PaulV. I'll add the EGR valve tomorrow.
I went out to the garage and installed my new EGR valve. I was gonna add the blue 30 tooth VSS gear, and found I had a blue one already. I posted a white 31 tooth gear wanted thread in the mall
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-28-2011).]
I took the car for a good 120 mile drive on a beautiful Texas Fall day. No DTC's. I had replaced the EGR, the plastic line , and a rebuilt EGR solenoid from PaulV here on PFF.
All is well in the Fiero world today!
I can tell that the fuel mileage is better than before, as the gauge seams to move lower more slowly. I have purchased a transmission filter kit from O'Rilley's Auto Parts and will start on that tomorrow after work.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-30-2011).]
This replacing the transmission filter and gasket was a real fun project.
First I used some carb and choke cleaner to remove most of the crud and dirt around the bolt heads.
Loosen all bolts and allow some of the transmission fluid to drain out into a large tall tote or pan. You had better keep a few rags handy underneath as you will need them. I promise you!!!! After you finish with the fluid pan you will see the internals of the 125C.
Use the rags to wipe all of the dripping fluid before you get a mouth full.
When you remove the filter, you will loose about 2/3rd cup of fluid onto your garage floor. I should have had a tote lid or a kitty liter box underneath the transmission to catch the fluid. I didn't know until it was to late.
My pan gasket holes were small enough that I could thread 4 bolts into it to keep the gasket squared up and straight. All bolts torqued to 8 FT lbs. I wait about 10 minuets and check them again. All needed a bit more torque applied.
It got late and I stopped for the evening. Tomorrow I will refill the transmission and go for a test drive .
I discovered that I have a leak on the rear passenger side caliper. Not bad, but it is wet. I will need to replace it soon.
I poured into a gallon jug, about 3 & 1/2 quarts of the old transmission fluid. The color of the fluid was about right. You will need 4 quarts to fill it back up.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-31-2011).]
I put 4 quarts of fluid in the transmission this afternoon. Before I let the car down I removed the driver side rear wheel and found where my splash guard for the brake rotor was against it . I had a nice constant growl. I also let off of the parking brake a bit. Car rolls easier now. I took a look at the passenger side rear caliper. It is leaking from the little yellow nub in the center of the caliper piston. Time for a repair.
Will try a 20 mile ride tomorrow to see if the fluid leak is gone.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-02-2011).]
Took the car for a nice 50 mile trip today. I had a SES light come on about half way. I had my scanner connected, and the MAP sensor was throwing the code. I shut it all down, and found the MAP connector had come loose. I need to get a new connector for it.
Transmission shifted good. I have a dry pan gasket today, but where the two lines go into the transmission for the cooler , I have a fair sized wet spot. I will raise the car up and remove the cross over coolant pipe to try to nail down the leak.
I got my Rodney Dickman speaker grill cloth in today's mail. Also the white 31 tooth speedometer gear. It will be put on the car pretty soon.
Grandchildren will be here tomorrow after work. Won't get much done until next week. The boy is 6, and you have to stay with him or else!!!!!!!
I located a radio wiring diagram for the correct locations of the wiring. I had the radio wire to the power antena connected to the ground circut for some reason. I cut this lead. I will do a test of the battery voltage tomorrow befor going to work to see how much drain happens overnight. I couldn't get the ohm draw part of my gauge to work.
Fixed the meter. I have less than .03 draw with this wire cut. I did have .46 amp draw.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2011).]
Battery was still good when I got home from work today. I removed the console to look for my rear speaker wires. Both rears were silent. The little connector was lodged underneath the radio surround. Plugged it into the radio and all is well in Fiero 'radio' land once again.
Removed the speaker grills to add the new Rodney Dickman cloth pieces. I will post a photo after I have them mounted and back in the dash.
Hey Joe, I'm glad you finally got your Fiero going. I'm just curious, but I'm guessing you rather have your current setup compared to the 4.9? I know I'm real happy with it.
Hey Joe, I'm glad you finally got your Fiero going. I'm just curious, but I'm guessing you rather have your current setup compared to the 4.9? I know I'm real happy with it.
The 4.9 was a 'Torque Monster'. Grin factor was quite high. It also used more fuel than the 3.4 does. This one is easier on the pocket book. Grin factor is high here. My 3.4 has a good pull, but it will never be a 4.9. I am quite pleased with the 3.4 though. If I can locate the transmission fluid leak and get it 'dry' I will be using it for a DD to get the engine broken in. About 350 miles right now. -Joe
Installed the new MAP connector. I also installed the radio, and all the console pieces. Put the Radio surround bezel back in the car. Looks pretty darned good!!!!!! Flash makes it look lighter than it is. 88 Beechwood. Drivers side door jam moulding is correct, and the same color as the dash. After work tomorrow I am gonna raise the rear and try to find out what the heck is going on with the leaking transmission fluid.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-07-2011).]
Got it all raised up and block so it will stay in place. Tomorrow after work I will get off to the side and have the wife hold down the brakes. Once in gear the fluid should move inside the lines. I am thinking that the bottom of the two fluid cooler lines is the source of the fluid loss. The top one is almost dry. The bottom one is soaked.
Temperature is 76, and the humidity high. I am fogging my glasses while was cleaning and looking for the leak.
Found the leak. I tightened it down good. No leak. I am gonna buy me a good Craftsman line wrench tomorrow and put a good turn on it. My Harbor Freight one is junk. A 13mm open end fits loose, and a 1/2" open end is just a bit to tight. Don't want to round off the shoulders.
I taped a piece of clear plastic on the garage floor. Went for a nice 30 mile ride. I have two small dots of red fluid on the floor after about 10 minuets of waiting. I will raise the car and try to locate the leak tomorrow morning. Transmission dipstick was about 1 pint low while hot. I was really hoping this was 'fixed'.
Glad you are so close to getting it done Joe. Well, as done as these cars ever get. I`m sure, like I was for a long time, you are ready to take a Fiero to a Fiero event. Mike
Glad you are so close to getting it done Joe. Well, as done as these cars ever get. I`m sure, like I was for a long time, you are ready to take a Fiero to a Fiero event. Mike
I thought about a trip up north tomorrow, but I don't want to drip transmission fluid all the way to Ft. Worth and back.
It's 36* outside. I will get out to see whats wet after a bit of a thawing out. Supposed to get up to 68 today.
YUM
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-11-2011).]
A bit of bad luck here. Looks like I have a leaking torque converter seal. There is a small 2"X3" square hole in the very bottom of the transmission. I can insert my little finger inside. I get red transmission fluid . All the dripping fluid seems to be originating from the area. I replaced this seal before I set the converter. Bad seal I think!!!
I can either remove the transmission and replace the seal, or drive it and put up with the leak until I fix the seal. Maybe replace the two long AC lines, and add an AC compressor. I have the RD alternator kit to install also. This would be a good time to drop it onto the engine. I was looking forward to some driving
I have them out in the Texas sun for a good sun dry. I will trim and replace them this afternoon. I will add a picture of these installed in the dash.
I have decided to start dropping the cradle and installing a new seal tomorrow. Ordered a new National Seal on RockAuto.com $14.47 shipped. Same seal was $23.00 local.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-11-2011).]
Made a quick trip to 'Poe' Valley Ranch and scored a set of nice AC long aluminum lines. I will install these while I have the cradle and engine out of the car. I started removing pieces on top of the engine for dropping the cradle. Backed the car out and drained the coolant system first. Pulled back in the garage and rocked the car back and forth to remove the dog bone bolt first.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-13-2011).]
Made a quick trip to 'Poe' Valley Ranch and scored a set of nice AC long aluminum lines. I will install these while I have the cradle and engine out of the car. I started removing pieces on top of the engine for dropping the cradle. Backed the car out and drained the coolant system first. Pulled back in the garage and rocked the car back and forth to remove the dog bone bolt first.
Sorry I misseed you Joe but had a hot motor swap issue going on that had to be figured out to get the car back on the road for the guy.....Let me know if you need any other parts....
Sorry I missed you Joe but had a hot motor swap issue going on that had to be figured out to get the car back on the road for the guy.....Let me know if you need any other parts....
Wasn't a problem. It was just a real nice day to take a ride and get out of the house and garage. Looks like you got him back on the road. Read your thread.
I have the cradle almost ready to come out. I still have the transmission lines to unhook. I have to figure out a way to keep the gas from leaking in the garage.
I hope I am not gonna need any more parts to finish this up. -Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-13-2011).]
I took an old fuel line I had and cut it about three inches long. I beat the end closed, and folded it over once. One more tap with a hammer. I removed the fuel out line at the fuel filter and threaded my 'modded' piece. No gas leak in my garage floor.
After the Dallas game was over I went out and removed the cradle bolts and the transmission cooler lines. I will get it out of the car tomorrow after work.
I removed the exhaust crossover pipe, both axle shafts,starter, converter bolts and the front motor mount bolts today. It is ready to come apart tomorrow after work. I left two of the transmisssion bolts holding the engine on. All wires are loosened and removed.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-30-2011).]
Engine is on the engine stand. Transmission is still on the cradle. I will remove the transmission and pop off the converter and change the seal this weekend. I am gonna replace the TCC solenoid and 3rd gear switch before going back together. I need to see the 3rd gear switch before ordering I was told.
Removed the converter and transmission from the cradle. I removed the side cover and examined the 3rd gear switch. Mine is a two wire with slide over lugs for the connections. I ordered a new 3rd gear switch online. I had ordered a new TCC solenoid and a new gasket already. They are both here and ready to go.
My 3rd gear pressure switch came today. It was the wrong one. I have the 'Correct' one on the way? I am at a stand still until I get it. I was hoping to mate the engine and transmisssion this weekend. Not gonna happen.
